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On the road... OK. Quite subtle pic... I admit it

I think I need a new phone to help me take some better quality photos.

OK so most of you probably dont know who i am anyway. I was a lot more active on here, a long time ago, and haven't really posted for years now. After 10 years and nearly 110,000 miles in my current TDi Octy VRS, and a couple of years in a petrol version before that, the time has come to bid farewell to the brand - even the group. I will soon be driving something completely different, and a very well looked after 2009 Limited Edition hatch will be adorning the forecourt of my local used car showroom. I'll update the LE register thread in a mo (my main reason for returning, only to say goodbye, if I'm honest, although i dont know whether that thread still rumbles on or not, until i go check it out). I can only hope that the new motor will be anywhere near as reliable, and cheap to run, as my current one. Picked it up with 30k on the clock, didnt get the cambelt done until last year/£128k miles, and the only thing to go wrong with it other than the odd suspension arm and the original wheels going wonky, is the air conditioning compressor. Virtually big bills, discs and pads last forever, still on its original clutch and DMF, pulls like a brand new car. I seriously considered keeping it until it turned to dust. Que estes bien, amigos.

Test fit of the front bumper was a success. I even found the fixings after all these years. Bumper is back off now as I’m painting the inside edges, be back on tomorrow along with the fig light surrounds. Once it’s finally on I’ll give it a good clay barring then machine polish it. The 30degree boost hoses were an inspired choice, they take all the struggle out of trying to manipulate a short straight hose and fit almost perfectly. More pics when it’s all buttoned up at the front.

Cheap to run if one is charging at home on the very cheap night-time rates but bloody expensive if one if paying full price at Public Chargers. Sadly most EVs are not suitable for over 250 mile journeys in a days visit to other places of work and especially in the cooler times of the year without big prep ie pre-heating etc. Also with no grants any longer for buying an EV in the UK the car I am in the process of buying is a pure petrol. Will keep the Zoe for journeys in the Midlands and will continue to look to batteries to carry. Bjorn Nyland has been carrying the Ecoflow and and extra Ecoflow battery if he runs out and these will get better and better. If one is a highmiler or more importantly a long distance driver then Internal Combustion engines and still the sensible tool of choice.

Considering the water pump on 1.4 , 1.5 TSI engines is not driven by the cam belt and is on the other end of the engine there is absolutely no reason to change it unnecessarily when replacing cam belt.

I won't be using koni again. When my SAs fail I'll go bilstein b6.

Without an exact code from a dealer I'd just try getting RAL9005 mixed up in matt finish I think they are turini wheels on your car. Which on skoda are just listed as "matt black" https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/products/alloy-wheel-18-turini

"Price is a percieved indicator of quality", one of the basic economic principles taught at very early stage in an MBA course, for me most of the learning was simply being able to put a name or a phrase to what I had already worked out and knew instinctively from working at markets and also buying & bicycles from a very early age. Wasn't it one of the car companies that had an advertising campaign that said "Reassuringly expensive!" that is like having you over, rubbing your nose in it and laughing at you.

Thank you guys! I wish my Superb could look a little bit bigger on tank trailer, but I fear I would have won a complete week at my local body repair shop... 😁

This looks fab... pardon the pun...

Trust me, a company as huge as VAG (Skoda) would have hired the best of the best Marketing/Media /Advertising companies to come up with the ideas to advertise their product. We aren’t talking about spotty college students who are studying media at college, we are talking multi million pound companies who specialise in advertising. So, whilst you see what you see, there will be a marketing reason why they chose the format they did to advertise the Kamiq, and I’ll bet you my house that it works in terms of sales for the thousands/millions who the advert subliminally influences.

Tested one last Saturday. Middle spec I think. Underwhelmed. Goes quite well in Sports mode and the regenerative paddles work well. Range was only showing 220 miles if one extrapolated the fact car showed 90% charge and only 198 miles range when I started. Display quite nice. Probably going for an Arkana, much better value, so much more car, £10k less to buy.

Just to set your mind at rest, Colin. Had my L&K heated windscreen done at Autoglass including calibration. Went perfectly with no problems in the past 3 years. They got me to check everything before I left. Really good service, and covered by insurance minus a relatively small excess.

Leakage through the cabin air intake can only really happen if the scuttle drains are blocked.

Bit more on the vrs. Noticed its got solid cupra bushes in Filled over the rust hole on the sill Primed both sills And hit them with bedliner Quarter panel is done Bits of rot on the rear quarters are painted in See a few spots on the bedliner where it's not perfectly straight. Will do it again. Whole car will need a heavy cut and buff, and wetsand in and around where its been painted.

was indeed the Coolant temp sender. fitted the new one and the car behaved as it should. total cost about £12 and a hour of swearing to get to it, then 5 mins to fit. so if your car refuses to start when hot, reveals no fault codes and the oil light comes in over 3k rpm. then check the live temp, if its higher than it should be or reports mega high temps, then change it.

Or "at least one tea break"...

It's MIB1 so the answer is NO, display unit, glove box unit and USB must be retrofitted to use Apple CarPlay. Pls contact me on PM if you are interested.

I just got 5 miles per kWh with the weather @ 16*oC. That was not all down hill. That is thanks to the software update on my car this week. Also got the screen to show the graph of usage having put it to km per kWh. That is not available in the same way when on miles per kWh showing regen. Larry. But then being on kilometers is no use to me.

@pab567Do you know if the old system can have Apple car play loaded?

Add into the factor the 4 miles per kWh he got. Add in that Home Tariff's are for those that can charge at their home or someone elses. Then calculate maybe the 3.5 or maybe 3 miles per kWh in colder weather, or the just 2.5 kWh that you might get and then the need to get on a public charger. Real world UK maybe November to April in parts of the UK.

I have the same opinion. I don't know how long they will last but for sure the next time I want to change the shock absorbers on the Skoda or another car, I won't choose Koni.

Ah the joys of lying VAG water temperature gauges. The only surprise there is that the gauge wasn't saying 88C.

Sure, but as they're not there to act as water seals...

I'm sure it's not, because they're not seals!

You were spot on! Indicator was on hence the alarm and parking light! Many thanks for the help

Similarly with a Citroen ZX (and some of those definitely had disc backplates).

I'm terribly sorry, I double-checked the translation. Install a 5Q0 411 303 AC front sway bar where the tie threads are inside the pipe, I put 3Q0 411 303 J on it which is exactly the same as the thinner one I removed 3Q0 411 303 C. The joints fit well and in a workshop specialized in suspensions and wheels (they have a competition section and exclusive cars) they said that there was no problem. The difference is less than a centimeter. The links fit well and don't rub on anything. Changing the stabilizer bar would cost me more than 300 euros. I know that the correct thing would be to change it, but I want to know if there could be a problem like that or if I could put some washers to try to remove the link from its original position, as long as the link itself allows it. This is what I should have put: and this is the one i put: The handling has improved a lot, the car rolls a lot less, it drives better. Both the front and the rear are from the Golf R VII, but for the front there is a thicker reference to the Kodiaq, Arteon, Passat. Thanks in advance. This is how it is installed now. After several hundred kms it works very well, there are no swings or friction with parts and perhaps the only problem may be shortening the life of the linkages. If anyone knows anything else please let me know. Once again sorry for the translation.

No water pump needed as cam belt does not run on it.

Update on my seat belt position, the dealer now has one in stock, and it is going to be fitted on the 12th October and the cost is supposed to be £302 fitted which my son is paying, after which I'm sure he will a lot more careful when he is in the car, a lesson learned the hard way.

..I think his point was that the water pump replacement is "relatively" low cost if you are doing the cambelt (ie parts ony), if you change it at the same time as you almost get the labour cost "for free" while doing the cambelt. Otherwise you end up with another rather large labour charge if you end up replacing the pump at a later date??

Do not fit a standard leisure battery then. Maybe fit an Optima.

The most desirable characteristic of replacement brake flud is that it's fresh and not old and stale, 2L is far more than you need, 1L is ample.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Totally agree with not using WD-40 (but it can be a useful jack-of-all-master-of-none spray if nothing better is available for emergency use). PlusGas I don't find to be as good now it's brewed by someone else (black cans) as it used to be but that might be false nostalgia (Rapideze was my go to decades back). My current favourite as a penetrating releasing fluid and lubricant (smells nice too) is something I first used in the 1980s (along with LPS) as a lubricant - GT85. (Again sadly GT85, as with PlusGas, is no longer a British company.) Whether using GT85, PlusGas, WD-40 or other, reading and following the instructions is need along with often two items in short supply or out of stock with many, time and patience, waiting to allow the fluid to soak well in, possibly overnight, then if the first application and waiting doesn't work applying a second and leaving to soak in. This is why many resort to using heat which is fine if it's sufficiently available and suitable but it isn't always available for some/many.

Great Guys.. Thanks to all of you for the tips/help. The problem was solved, new alternator and new belt, flawless engine and 14.20v TOP ! You can check here https://golink.co/share/ewsI37Md1JwM0lmK Password: 123

You might not be where you want to be right now, but you'll get there. If that helps somewhat. Keep going man, you've got this

That sounds like Internet mythology to me, the VRS is lighter than a Golf with the same engine, or any other VAG group car with the PD130 for that matter, the lack of weight is what makes the VRS the quickest. V rating is good up to 149 mph, speed rating is mostly down to the strength of the radial belt and its ability to resist stretching or breaking as rotational velocity increases.

Or, unlike what the previous commentators say, because a 215/45R16 is cheaper than a 205/45R16.

I have access to CNC mill. I make most parts by myself. These are drawn on Solid works and I machined them on our CNC. I can make part's and develop them or redesign them. I worked with exotic materials like titanium also. These brakets work with 16" rims and 312mm Rotors. Not so easy to fit.

Ordinary cars are too noisy to benefit from expensive hifi components unless you want to listen while parked up.

Pioneer TS-G1720F. That's what I've got in the car, bloody brilliant. Cost me about £35 IIRC.

It's a bug bear for sure, to pull the passenger side forward would mean hacking off that bumper mount as well so I'm leaning towards leaving it where it is having looked at it in depth. Good news is the 30 degree bend boost pipes fit nice and easy, that removes at least that struggle. I dug the front bumper out of storage last night, found the fixings for the external air temp sensor and the air temp sensor so i'll be cleaning that up next and trial fitting that.

What I meant to also say was, they are a bloody rare car! As an example, there have been 2,660 Bentley Bentayga V8s🤮 registered during the same time the 280/272 have been available.

Hi guys! Picked up my vRS last friday. 15 months of wait totally worth it!

The Pirelli Scorpion Verde fitted from factory I have found to be very good, no issues. Not sure what the difference in grip is but they for sure last longer than the Contis in my experience.

I do wonder what to press when this comes up about 1 mile into a journey. What I want it to do is just do the ******* update next time the car is parked, I don't really care to read the details, Perhaps the question should be 'Read details' and 'Perform update'

Taken last week in the south of France after a 900 mile drive 😀

*cough* hydro *cough cough* pumped storage hydro We need more of both.