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I GAF. 👍 What law were you referring to that the fitters in question would have broken?

Yeah of course! I'm just asking for experiences, everyone's is different but it gives me a flavour. It's great question actually which year of vrs has been the most reliable? I like the sound of 14 to 17.

Not a lot to report really, still munching miles and behaving. Found some spare dodomat left over from my van so lined the boot floor and inside the tailgate to quieten things down and hopefully keep a bit of heat in for the dog. Rear badge recess welded up. To cold for anything else but I should really finish the smooth front bumper next.

Honestly this seems to have done better in the crap weather than most 4x4s I've seen. Still soldiering on nicely.

I have no idea where SEAT / Cupra have got to with VW Group snagging issues with EV's. Those on here with Enyaq / ID.3 or 4,s might know how Updates, Recall Actions etc are going, or if SEAT / Cupra have managed to produce and deliver cars without the issues. Hopefully in Spanish there is a proper understanding of Vorsprung Durch Technik. If you fail with your advances in technology ,then shift your back end and get people in that do know what is required for the drivers / owners purchase. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/499985-dead-12v-battery http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/498588-cant-get-along-with-smart-charging-feature http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/506587-new-enyaq-delivery=gone-wrong http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/505928-no-software-update http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/498977-ota-updates http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/498649-charging-upgrade

Will take a bit longer than 3 minutes.

Glad it worked. I also replaced it successfully yesterday. Saw the ACC error but then all was fine. Didn't drive though, only let the engine on for a few minutes.

Battery replaced this afternoon. No problems just a bit fiddly getting the cover & the battery clamp back in place. At the first start after changing the battery, engine started fine (battery must be mostly charged) but there were 3 warning messages on the display & flashing in the cluster: - ACC Error - ESP Error - Tyre Pressure Monitoring Error After driving 500m the last 2 errors disappeared on their own leaving only the ACC error. I drove about 3km & stopped to collect the kids. At the next start, there were no errors & the engine started without any warnings on the display. Just before reaching home (when the cabin temperature had reached the setpoint) StopStart was enabled & the engine stopped while waiting at traffic lights... Previously there was always a message in the StopStart overview saying "High Power Consumption" which I guess must have been the alternator trying to charge the old battery. So everything seems to be working fine without any "learning/programming" at the moment. I will report back if I see any differences/problems over the next few days. I've got a 120km round trip tonight. @Giff If you didnt already order your battery I can recommend Galaxus or SwissBatt.ch (ordered at Galaxus & delivery by SwissBatt 2 days later).

I struggled to find them for 18 inch wheels on my Superb. Didn't even try for the 19s on our more recent Passat (same size as yours I think). I think you will need to go with socks. The main thing is winter tyres. We have driven to the Alps for 5 years. Initially on Cross Climates and more recently on full winters. Never used the socks. We go to a resort at a similar altitude, had to dig the car out to come home a couple of times in Feb. No probs on the road, the French are all over it.

OK, whose 'simply clever' idea was it to remove the azimuthal control on the air vents, and use the left-right slider thing to vary the flow? Or have I missed something?

4 weeks since I was dogged by problems to do with connection to the Server. These faults included the ‘Pop Pop SOS’ issue only arose following on upgrading to SW 1896 six months ago. Since having the OCU (Onboard Communications Unit) replaced 4 weeks ago I have had no further problems.

I have said it a million times. Do not exaggerate. People do come to forums to moan, ask questions and report faults. Lots of people never do that until they are landed with a lemon, and wish they had checked the forums. They are buying only one car, they want a good one. There will be many many many very good ones, and they might be keepers. But we never know how good cars are at over 5 years old until they have been on the go for 5 years old and been serviced well or maybe not serviced well.

Mattyboy if you really want a vrs just go buy one their really good motors ,every make of car has its horror stories hence why forums have appeared ,folk rarely come on to say my cars running like a dream ,there places to get help with problems ,for every car thats s *** theres a thousand perfect ones 👍

Are you losing any engine coolant? I hope it isn't this but could be the heater matrix leaking. Other things to check: Under boot floor Drain holes in scuttle at bottom of windscreen

I do! Who wouldn't put their second most valuable asset ( after their house) undercover, protected form the elements, vandals, thieves, etc. if one was available?

Cheers, Lee. Same here actually, mine had been scooting about the village, and a trip to the other village to get to the post office, so maybe about 15-20 miles all this week. Took a bit to get it going, so done about 30 miles in it today when I went shopping. It's not getting used the way it was since I'm off university until just after the New Year.

Looking good, Ryan 🙂 My battery has decided it doesn't like this cold weather. Very slow to crank on first start today. Probably have to get one.

Yes, mine are aftermarket. Ouch! Safer not to put the centre caps in! (Though I suppose not ideal to get road dirt and salt in there). I didn't think the caps needed to come off to get a wheel off, though? I've never removed my caps when removing a wheel.

First question - is the car plated to tow? second - is this a main dealer or small independent? third - what have they fitted, specifically, brand, model and such? forth - where are you located? we need all this detail to advise further. a properly fitted tow bar should of been fitted that seamlessly ties with the vehicle systems and automatically turns off and changes certain systems when plugged in, this clearly hasn’t been done

The sellers may be measuring at different points, ie. the outside diameter at the widest point perhaps being 56mm and the part where it clips into the alloy rim perhaps being 50mm. 6U0601151L MHB https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/en_CZ/spare-hub-cover/p/6U0601151L+MHB 5E0601151 FOD https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/en_CZ/decorative-centrepiece-of-the-wheel/p/5E0601151++FOD In the diagram below, A is perhaps 56mm and B is perhaps 50mm.

It doesn't sound great that's for sure. Why are you so sure it's at position 3? Are you sure the tensioner is actually placing tension on the guide rail when engine is not running? Related question. What is the wire around the tensioner ratchet teeth, that not the ratchet mechanism is it?

Almost a month in and I’ve succumbed to a Freedom membership, you don’t seem like a bad bunch so far…😉😂

Thank you. As it happens, I just tried to get it in again (with a bigger hammer) and this time it worked! Though I fear the cap was slightly cracked during the process, so we'll see if it stays in. I searched that part number, and found 56mm versions, but also 50mm versions! Argh.

Hey everyone, just an update to this post. Ive ran shell 99 vpower and since then nothing. No lights no misfire its all good. I think the fuel was bad. Dont quote me but i think it runs better with higher octane. Thank you for everyones help. The sparks and coils were fine. But im thinking of upgrading a few things for performance. Any suggestions

I've had two clutch replacements, all within the first 9 months of having the car, clutch was slipping, temp warnings and errors. Initially Skoda wouldn't replace the first one under warranty, I was just over 6 months in and around the 6500 miles and I had to pay £1800, however that ended up being caused by a faulty ABS control unit! I did get refunded for that. The second clutch went a few months later, the clutch, flywheel etc replaced under warranty that time and has been fine since, currently on 17k.

I think AC circuits shut down at low temperatures, to prevent internal freezing. Check in your manual if there's any mention of 4C as minimum temperature for it to operate. Yes, could be wrong, but that's how I remember in my head EDIT: From my own manual The cooling system operates only if the following conditions are met. The cooling system is switched on. The engine is running. The outside temperature is above approx. +2 °C. The blower is switched on. So it's 2 not 4 Celcius.

VW MEB platform owners should be able to chip in on vehicle specifics. I've not read about 12v problems on MEB platform, so far. For HV Li-on battery, if sitting unused for a long time, it's generally best to keep Li-on charge level at around 50% if possible (at 3.7v per cell). Storing at 100% for days stresses the battery causing more degradation, same at 0%. Generally speaking storing Li-on battery between 30-80% will be fine. I've no idea what VW manual will say for care of their battery. But Tesla manual differs to Nissan's. Nissan: we offer "long life" mode to charge to 80%, no mention of long term storage. Leaf doesn't connect the HV battery unless the car is "started", so it will happily sit for months. Tesla: set charge limit to "daily" (50-90%) and leave it plugged in. Tesla will use HV battery to top up 12v and heat/cool the battery to maintain temperature, so need external support if unused for many months. The power rating of charge point will not matter. The important thing for modern EV is that it can draw from external source to maintain its charge levels. A well designed car knows what is best for itself. I've parked up for 2 months on the Leaf without problem, at 50%, no % loss for charge level. For Tesla longest was 10 days not plugged in at a car park as we went on holiday in October. Dropped a few % on the HV battery. I think leaving it not plugged in up to 3 months is absolutely fine.

Hi MarkyG82, I have keyless entry and I have changed nothing, all doors unlock at the same time and I try the flap as soon as the doors unlock, I realise if left too long the doors will self lock, I’ve just tried it leaving the doors open and it makes no difference, it’s booked in at the dealers in a weeks time so see what they come up with

Hi mate, I recently got a P0673 error on my 2018 Skoda Superb using my cheap OBD reader so wanted to let you know that Glow Plug 3 is the expensive one of the 4 with a pressure sensor i believe, so not sure you can just swap it out like you state (i'm not a mechanic). I took my car into Skoda as advised under my Extended Warranty and they confirmed the code error using their readers and replaced the spark plug under warranty. I'm very happy I took an extended warranty one out on the car now directly with Skoda.

We do get snow here too

As I soon to be EV owner, maybe I should look to get one of the power pack things just in case, is 1200A peak 18000 mAh enough ? Also can the 12v battery be left on a standard car trickle charger without issue ?

A simple yes or no would have been more helpful Ken. So Flywheel is covered under the Extended Insurance backed warranty for fellow Skoda drivers in the future. However note customers are liable for initial inspection costs. Donald was very clear re this. Once fault diagnosed then you are no longer charged these costs. So just a wee heads up. However Clutch is deemed a wear and tear item. So cost of a new clutch would be down to the customer. However you would be stupid not to replace clutch whilst gearbox is stripped down. Insurance cover all the labour costs re job. So the Clutch costs £228 in total. Total cost of Flywheel/Clutch cost is £1688. Clutch is only warranted for 6000 miles/6 months whichever comes first. Big thanks to the team at Henry’s Glasgow. Donald in Service was first class. Same re Kenny in Parts. I’ve dealt with Kenny for nearly a year purchasing parts for Servicing car and he’s always very helpful. Then the Technician completing the job Terry. I get my car later today but you hear so many bad stories re Warranty Cover. I dealt with Liam at Skoda. First class and warranty claim approved with 15 mins. Now that’s Service and Customer Care.

Ah got you I had found the Allen head bolt but you've clarified it for me now surprised would have thought logically levering upwards not downwards would have loosened glad you put me straight thanks tmb 😀

OMG. That's an air hairifier. Your concern is well placed. Also, if any of that hair find a way to pass that filter, they will either wind around the ventilation fan shaft and cause a failure or get shredded to smaller pieces which could be inhaled more easily. Dog/cat hair is known to cause health problems when inhaled.

Leeds skyline

Just seen 971 seats which was missing off the list.

Here's a couple of standard 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 alloy rims for the Fabia MK3. These rims are normally fitted with 185/60R15 tyres when used on the Fabia MK3. 185/60R15 is a more common, more comfortable, more mpg, and cheaper tyre size than 215/45R16. In addition to the standard 185/60R15 tyre size, you might also want to consider the very similar sized 195/60R15 which can be even better value. https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/en_CZ/alloy-wheel-propeller-15-for-fabia-iii-rapid/p/5JA071495A+8Z8 Vredestein Quatrac 6 195/60R15 88H https://www.camskill.co.uk/m138b0s7993p202144/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_-_195_60_R15_88H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB

Diesels don't rev remember, think of a big rig articulated lorry, tractor unit usually only about 350 bhp, just imagine the torque figure, that's with a turbo the size of a dustbin lid!

I had the 54hp cdi, but I drove it like I stole it! It was hilarious overtaking massive ECO engined cars on the motorway, but not so much when it was a tad windy! 🤣

My dealer called me today, and he said that the car is on its way - pretty chuffed on one hand but on the other it is going to hurt my bank account a lot :).

Came back as 5mm tread depth on the service report, visually I'd say that's about right.

Those who speak of doing impossible things are creative, not technical!

Unfortunately, ECU had to be replaced as well as. With new ECU car is in working order again.

@Titanium_Man - Haven't heard much from you in a bit. Hope all is well in your wee part of the world.

You are right. I couldn't get the plug in until I took terminal locking tab off. Tried it just now and it went in. Must have ben the wrong way around. Said I was thick!

I thought i would post back with an update on this. So i went ahead with stage 1 OEM+ in June through AP Automotive. So 6 months in and i'm really pleased with how the car has been performing. I would have no hesitation in recommending the OEM+ to fellow members. A couple of friends have gone the same route based on my experience and all are equally impressed. Thank you all who helped with your experiences and putting my mind at ease as there are so many companies out there, its hard to choose the right one!

Got to give a shout for Tayna Batteries. Ordered new battery late afternoon yesterday (Fri), and received it at 09:20am today.

Mine is 2016 otherwise same model. Although i do usually give it Tesco Momentum 99, sometimes I just put in supermarket 95 and to be honest there is very little difference, it certainly doesn't cause any misfiring or rough running. I did replace the spark plugs at around 60,000 miles but it made no difference to the running (which has always been fine) and they didn't really look as though they needed replacing - ie pretty indistinguishable from the new ones. Coils are more likely to play up under load then when idling.

Sounds like you might need a better OBD tool... If the engine light has been on, I'd expect a stored code to say why

Update: After couple of weeks trying to figure out what is happening I have decided to get in touch with local car electrician. On his arrival he found broken wire from engine bay fuse box that leads to ECU. Broken wire was caused by battery tray chafing on the wire loom.