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So..... I picked this up yesterday 🙂

Calais 62. It could be worth you trying out the 1.0 Karoq, you may or may not be pleasantly surprised. My 1.0 dsg that I've had 3+years does feel quite nippy to me, when I push the gear selector into sport for overtaking (note I am mid 70s though and no tyro!!). I was sceptical about the performance before buying, but a couple of test runs, began to put me at ease, before signing the deal. I soon found that at motorway speeds (70mph) it has plenty of umph to accelerate comfortably to 80-90mph to pass slower moving traffic, without needing to change down from 7th. It's really rather quiet, smooth and responsive. Clearly no racing car, but it's pokier than I recall my Peugeot 504Ti of years and years ago and that was thought to be a reasonably fast car in it's day. It's also quite possibly better than the 1.6 diesel Karoq in many ways, except maybe for low down torque, so that may put you off. The only diesel I've ever test driven was a 2.0, a year or 2 previous to me aquiring my 1.0. It was a dsg 4wd, which was OK, engine surprisingly quiet compared to any diesel I'd been in previously, but I do prefer my 1.0 petrol - for one thing it has smaller 17" wheels with higher profile tyres that make the ride noticeably better & quieter. I do suspect the 1.0 is the most reliable of all the petrol & diesel Karoqs, though I've no statistics to back up that statement. I've had no trouble of any consequence, up to now at 20,000miles. Long distances that I do monthly, I find more relaxing than any previous car I've owned (includes a BMW523, admittedly the engine in that was super smooth, that's when the head gasket wasn't blowing). I usually travel with the car at least half loaded on runs - just 1 passenger, full boot with cases etc. + rear seats & floor at least half full of stuff, just occasionally right up to the roof, but I've never had 5 people in it, for anything other than a short distance, then only once when the car was 2 weeks old. It does around 50mpg on a 150 mile motorway run in summer and say 45mpg in winter.

VW do not produce or manufacture oil. No point buying Castrol unless you want to. Quantum / Fuchs supply VW UK / TPS, Anything is fine as long as the correct spec, Comma, Tesco / Asda or anyones as long as to VW 507 00.

I think I saw 1.48 to 60mph. Certainly a sub 8 1/4: Matt's language and responses were quite telling! 😁 Gaz

Classic symptom of the thermostat being stuck open allowing the coolant to flow through the radiator before it's even luke warm. First port of call is the small inline thermostat on the oil cooler to the DSG gearbox. They are dead easy to change DIY, should take about 30 minutes.

That's completely normal after a firmware update and is trivial to fix. You need to grab a value from the "Confirmation of installation change" channel, XOR it with C9D2 then enter the new value OBDeleven example below and you can use http://mib-helper.com/im-so-xory/ for the XOR calculation...

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good to see also the note at the bottom to check the tightness of the wheel bolts (nuts). If you don't have a torque wrench to use or borrow then if that garage is nearby you could perhaps ask them to check and throw them a packet of biscuits or something, to keep them sweet. 😉

Sound from advice @Gaz and certainly the better option if no lack of storage space and willing to change tyres for seasons that change more than we get down south. For me I needed four new boots in one go, I don't have a Vrs so for 16inch wheels I got four for £308 at quickfit so it was a no brainer. But this year has been their first real test and they have proved their performance without a doubt.

For the benefit of other people: The 'long pedal' (1) was purely a symptom of a badly unevenly worn disk on the inside drivers side. It was overlooked (by myself) because all other front disk surfaces and pad thicknesses looked fine. Initial thoughts were that the caliper sliders were seized or binding, but as I replaced the calipers two years ago these turned out to be very free and smooth, so the uneven wear was probably just unfortunate dirt etc. trapped between disk and pad. The dangerous ABS behaviour (2) was down to two brakes lines on the pump unit being incorrectly fitted when it was replaced a few year ago. The right and left lines were plumbed into the opposite ports. The effect of this is that when the ABS detects one wheel locking it will modulate pressure to the wrong wheel, thus causing an error loop that keeps both wheels locked until speed = 0. The mechanic/garage that fitted it is no longer trading so this was rectified by another at some expense, which is rather annoying. It took me this long to notice because I haven't had the need to emergency brake, fortunately. I have new front brakes and properly behaving ABS now, so all is well. It's just a shame the clutch slave cylinder has failed on my T5.1 now 😭

The production period of 1.6 TDI's with SCR (AdBlue) was not long. That is a good thing. No idea why a 1.0 TSI is considered not good for long motorway journeys. Perfectly suited to doing those in the UK with the 70 mph speed limit, no extreme routes for hills. It would depend on how loaded the car will be though.

From erWin a list of spec and maker's. oil_pdf.zip

It looks like Batman and the Energiser bunny had a baby.

It may not be this fault, you need to read and decide. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/505730-weird-error-message-only-leave-vehicle-in-position-p/?do=findComment&comment=5683796 Best of luck with whatever you decide now, and reach out to the forum if you need more information/help.

If you're thinking of having two sets of tyres ( i.e. keeping the Pirelli's - n'owt wrong with them, they just might not be best suited to current conditions), then I'd suggest not going for CC2's, but head for decent winter tyres. Only go down the CC2 route if your vRS is going to wear them year round - full winters being better purposed than all season tyres when it comes to the recent low temperatures, snow and ice. Don't think any of us would laugh. That'd be tempting too much fate 🙄 Three cars ago I had an immaculate Saab 9-5, on good tyres, which I wrote off at walking pace on ice under snow. I felt pretty stupid about that for a long time Gaz

It should be VW507. If the car is running that oil, I would be getting it changed as soon as possible to avoid any damage to the engine/dpf.

Should be vw507.

Good review for CC's as they wear too 👍: I think when it comes to turning the traction control off, the caveat should be to only do it for as long as is necessary. It's there for a reason. Gaz

Hi Shauna, I also live on the South Coast like @Gaz, we don't often get snow but I was looking for an all round tyre and I have had Michelin Cross Climates on my 2.0 TDI Dsg since 2020. We had a good amount of snow at the weekend and I've had no issues getting about on roads in the last week I would never have ever attempted in the past on "normal" tyres and also into remote sites I visit for work which are down roads that are not frequently used nor gritted. They work just as well in wet and in dry summer, quite frankly they are great in all conditions. Plus they've been on now for over 30k miles fronts have worn only to 4.5 mm from 7 new. Like @Gaz I'm glad I switched to them a few years back, they provide a no compromise option for any season.

Another couple from today, slightly warmer at -7C

A photo of the Scala, it was too cold and windy to take any more!

Firmware & instructions worked great ! Took 15 mins or so. Thanks a lot ! (Used a microSD with a SD card adapter, the USB while it said it detected an update, did not enable the USB option in the engineering menu.)

I've had that myself (garage elsewhere); they then waived the fuel cost on discovering that the nearest garage who had diesel fuel was 25 miles away rather than 300 yards away as usual.

When you complete the flash process, it would have asked you if you wish to connect a diagnostic session. Because you don't have the dealer software, you have to press No/Cancel, so the car stores this Software Version Management code, simply because it was not able to talk to the 'mothership' and get the required handshake it needed. You can fix this with VCDS offline, and read a challenge value, perform a calculation, and then input this. Afterwards you can clear the fault. SVM Clearing This doesn't affect the operation.

If it helps I have a 1.0 tsi with DSG (but not in a Karoq), and have never found it underpowered on a motorway, if you need it to be more responsive just flick gear lever back and it goes into sport mode. Is the 1.6tdi a better engine, seems to be lot of problems with parts of its emissions system, DPFs etc if not regularly used for journeys of at least 30 minutes. But don’t hear of emissions problems on the 1.0tsi (and don’t hear of DSG problems when coupled to the 1 litre either) Another way to look at it, is that the 1.0tsi is currently still available, but the 1.6tdi has been withdrawn from Karoq in UK, you can choose your own phrase, but is basically defunct, obsolete, outdated etc. Petrol is about 152-156p where I live, diesel about 30p more (petrol doesn’t come from Russia, but a proportion of diesel did so subject to war premium to replace the shortfall). So in real world diesel now makes no sense unless you load it up or have a tow hook fitted. Personally I can only see this price differential getting bigger until Russia problem is solved. If it was me, due to the problems (have the adblue sensors or pump been damaged etc), I would seriously consider rejecting it, or swapping it to the petrol.

My tuppence worth too? Unless the AdBlue system was calling for refilling, to my mind it should have been left alone. I usually let mine get down to about 200 miles to go, then refill from a 10 ltr container. It normally takes about 9 ltrs, and then I put the remaining 1 ltr in a couple of months later. It sounds to me like they have either grossly overfilled the tank or not followed the correct refill procedure. For a salesman (who could have been selling shoes a month ago, or could be selling carpets next year), to say it 'should' disappear in a day or so, and it was not unusual is complete twaddle. If the proper procedure was followed ie refill until the first cut off glug (for want of a better word), then switch on the ignition only for around 30 seconds (no engine start) so the the AdBlue system recognises the quantity. After that, you can start the engine and all should be well. The status of the AdBlue can be seen in either the infotainment screen or the MySKODA app if you have it - from about 1k miles it will display the remaining milage, other wise it will show FULL. It's a pity your first venture into Skoda ownership has been spoilt by poor customer service because they really are good cars and represent excellent value for money imho

My tuppence worth? You're not overreacting in my book. Truth is you have a month to return the car without any difficulty ( see consumer rights act 2015 ) or 6 months after purchase ( same act but with added complications ). If it were me? Any used car I buy could have a problem, if you're a 'bottle half full' type then it's good the issue manifestied itself so quickly. And if they sort the problem out - great. The main point is that the issue has been logged so if something were to happen in future then you can always say it was present when you purchased the car. That's a big advantage. If the fault had been elsewhere then I'd have questioned the history of the car - is that going to be the first of a number of problems? but the Ad Blue sensor? Personally I wouldn't be worried.

A filter on the inlet to the matrix would not do any harm. if it choked up it would have the same effect as the matrix choking. No heat but no engine overheating. It sounds like the whole coolant system needs drained, flushed and possibly even a biocide run through it.

As you are coming from Peugeot, you may be aware that the Adblue system on PSA cars have given rise to many expensive issues. On those, an Adblue warning that does not go away when the tank is full is either down to an exhaust sensor (~£4-500) or a failed pump (£1000+). It also means that after ~1500 miles the car won't start. I don't know whether there are similar issues with VW group sensors and/or pumps, but if the new sensor doesn't fix it, you need to have at least a good discussion with the agent. Interestingly, I don't remember seeing many Adblue questions on Skoda forums. The problems that I had with my PSA diesel car, and the attitude of many councils towards diesel were the main reasons why my Karoq is petrol (apart from that diesel was not avaiable). I was lucky to get 54 mpg out of our PSA car, and I get low 50s out of our Karoq. On a quick calculation base on my local filling station, if I get 50mpg from petrol I need to get 59mpg from diesel to be the same fuel cost per mile. I was happy with the way my diesel car ran most of the time, but I'm wondering, if they can't sort out your issue, whether a petrol one may be better.

Well I cannot state how to do it exactly on the tool you have, but usually you will need to enter the dashboard and adjust time/mileage to next service. You may also need to reset it, if it was set to 1year fixed, but try to adjust the time value first. Example if you have 27 days left to the service, then try to add 365 to that, if that value is not accepted, add 180 days to it.

What was last year's service? Did they use Long Life oil, and then clearly set you to 1yr fixed? You may want to did out last year's receipt and check, also not sure if you want to just skip the message/service if you wish to sell the car, someone will pickup the gap.

As I was saying yesterday, I'm not impressed (or I'm negatively impressed), simply because the rating of the very same car shouldn't go down. I'd really like to know what's hidden behind this retesting in such a short time. For those not familiar with EuroNcap: it's not often al all to test the same model more than once per generation. In most cases, not even the facelift isn't tested.

I'm not impressed because I like cyclists, but if they can modify the AEB parameters to wipe out Trottinette riders instead of cyclists then I want one, especially if it can target young male riders wearing hoodies staring at their phone screens. 👍

It was 2018 and pre WLTP Certification that VW Group / Skoda went to VW508 00 / 509 00 so 0w 20 FS IV for TSI & TDI,s. So for the Euro 6 TDI's before then it is VW507 00 so 5w 30 FS III and for fixed or variable servicing. Some and dealers are using 0w 30 FS III.

That was the spring breaking.

It only needs a new hub nut, not a complete driveshaft, It's two hours labour plus parts plus VAT.

They only knew what I told them had happened on the phone. I was going along & had a loud bang & something came off the car & hit the road, then when I was going uneven/bumpy road I was getting a knocking noise which seemed to be at the back & sometimes seemed to go along the whole of the passenger side. Because the garage is about 45 mins from where I live they only got a chance to look at the car late Tuesday afternoon.

Have you got a white build code label under the carpet in the spare wheel well area? Example of white build code label http://igorweb.org/decoder/stitok.jpg I suspect you have build code L60, L61, L66, or L67 representing your front springs. You can see in the bottom chart the corresponding OEM part numbers. Some Octavia MK2 4x4 front springs 1 1K0411105DK Coil spring 3 paint marks orange 2 PR-L60 1 1K0411105DL Coil spring 4 colour strokes orange 2 PR-L61 1 1K0411105DM Coil spring 2 paint marks violet 2 PR-L66 1 1K0411105DN Coil spring 3 paint marks 1 paint mark also marked with: 3 paint marks pink brown violet 2 PR-L67 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/663/4/411/411012

I had a new OSF spring and top bearing fitted a couple of years ago and it cost £90,so I would guess add 25%.

Haha, I don't know how to make it shorter.

Also worth bearing in mind - ever sit on a loose toilet seat? Imagine doing that and trying to correct it without standing up, after a few beers, at 60mph. That's what sudden tyre depressurisation on the back feels like. I've had it twice in my life, it's very much not fun. The first time, youthful reflexes stopped me rolling it into a ditch. The second time a couple of lorry drivers who were well on the ball let me in out of lane 3 when the back of my van sidestepped and I put my beacons on. Sudden tyre depressurisation on the front is something I've never experienced, and never want to.

Mine especially creaked when its icy. The ice around the window edges creak against the rubber mouldings and seals.

Dear All, I have used this forum over many years as a way of sorting out any problems I have had with my Superb Mk2. So a big thank you to all for the help. This post is an effort to help others that may come across a problem I have had. It is the well known failure of the wiring in the bellows between the A-pillar and the front door. In my case it was on the passenger side and left me with no way of opening the passenger door. To overcome this, you need to remove the inner front wheel arch and a couple of baffles. This allows you to get at the bellows. In my case I gently pressed the bellows while pressing the unlock switch on the key fob at which point the door unlocked. This saved me loads of grief and allowed me to solder new wires to sort the problem out. I hope this may help others. I'd like to claim ownership of this idea but someone had posted a video of same on Youtube. Harry

The dealer attitude is always to NOT update a working system. Unless you walked in with a specific complaint, and they checked the TPI document and they got a match, they won't do a thing. Example "Bluetooth is unstable" and upon checking TPI, this is listed as a symptom. Anyhow, you have MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526 Version 1440 Will be sent to you in a few moments

I'm just an old skool engineer, more concerned with how well stuff works rather than what it looks like, people seem to get that idea mostly arse about face on here.

What i want to know is why can’t that little white light illuminate when you open the flap? it seems the only time it’s not lit up is when I’m fumbling about in the dark trying to plug it in. Right after I’ve just gotten out of the car, and the arriving home lights are still shining, then when you do finally find the socket it then lights up after you plug it in. Thanks skoda.

To the Wanderer 2015 103 tsi wagon manual. 234000 kms zero faults still as good as new inside and out 2020 Karoq 1.5 47000 kms zero faults still as new inside and out Best cars we have had in 55 years car ownership think you have been very unlucky regards Roger

10 miles of driving on the new tyres and a sidewall split as I had to try and get past a wide SUV parked on our road and clipped a kerb. BANG. Replacement tyre sorted today and KwikFit knocked a bit off the price, which is good of them.

Wise move re the tank, hopefully it's just debris and not severe internal corrosion. Do you think the filter was clogged or that some debris got through the element to the carburettor? I hope its the former. Is the fuel line upstream of the filter plastic or does it have some metal piping? If the latter that is where I would now be looking, I have spent far too many hours removing and cleaning the float chamber needle valve or idle jets from corroded fuel lines upstream of the filter on a couple of vehicles.

Well that didn't last long Hopped in it today, got to the bottom of my hill and it ran like absolute ****. Bad enough that I couldn't take it to work as planned. Dropped the fuel filter on advise from someone and... Already clogged. Thankfully I have a spare on hand and it is an easy job. This is what came out of the filter. Plenty of fresh fuel in it. May need to drop the tank sooner rather than later. Seems otherwise fine happily. My guess is that a chunk of gunk got into it this morning and caused it to run like ****. It ran beautiful just last night.

That's what I use Gaz