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Quick follow up. Car went into the shop and the techs found some software update that was needed that was affecting the interior lights and seat warmers. The windshield fluid issue was a blown fuse—likely from trying to run the pump with frozen fluid. They swapped out the fuse and put in wintertime washer fluid. Anyway, thanks for all the help and advice.

Tesco or other -10*oC might still be liquid in the washer bottle. No guarantee it comes out the nozzles though, or -15*oC stuff, or -23*oC or even -70*oC. But then if you spray on a cold windscreen of -10*C or lower it is going to freeze anyway.

The charging companies and EV manufacturers are working towards this to implement Plug & Charge ISO 15188 (and to a lesser extent AutoCharge non ISO standard) to allow cars to pay for charging by plugging in. This requires each car to identify itself uniquely and could be implemented on all chargers. This would identify cars being used untaxed or uninsured but will have loopholes eg granny chargers. Once plug and charge is in place car fuel duty could easily be levied on electricity given.

Many threads on this subject. Sounds like the water pump.

My 2 pence worth concerning home EV chargers. After pulling the trigger on a solar PV & battery system for my house (currently at 0% vat) I thought I may as well add in a new consumer unit since the existing plastic one is not up to current code & is full up. I also decided to add an EV charger (Zappi) for a future EV. Both of these items would also be 0% vat rated if they were done at the same time & as part of the solar PV system installation works. All good then. Well, no. Upon inspection the incoming mains electric cable from the street comes into my attached garage outside wall box / meter cupboard & then loops across our side pathway to my neighbours meter cupboard directly opposite. This means both of our houses are sharing the same incoming supply cable from the street & are both fused at only 60amps each. This is not compatible with a 7.4kW 240v 1phase home car charger (32amp) which, in addition to other household appliances, could overload the main cut out fuse in my house (60amp) &/or the mains cable size shared by both houses. E.g. EV charger 32amp + oven(s) 32amp + tumble dryer 16amp + immersion heater 16amp or combinations thereof = main fuse bang. Solution. National Grid (my Distribution Network Operator - DNO) need to un-loop the two houses & lay in a new cable to my neighbours house. This will involve digging up the street & a strip of grass between our two houses & part of my neighbours driveway! National Grid also have to upgrade the meter box cut out fuse to 80 or possibly 100amp & upgrade the meter cables on both houses. This work is scheduled for the end of January '23 before the rest of the works start. Thankfully this N.Grid work is at no cost to me or my neighbour who is fully OK with having the work done because it means he gets a totally independent mains supply which is fully up to spec for a future EV charger if he wants one. Just a bit of inconvenience while the work is being done & new cable connected. It seems that the practice of looping adjacent house electric supplies was common practice when the houses were built in 1986 (money saving) when the average electrical consumption of houses was way lower than it is today. It's been a bit of a journey but National Grid have been great & our solar system installer got involved to make it all got organised in a timely fashion. The fact that they are waiting for batteries means they cannot do the PV system install for another 2 months at least (been waiting for 3 months already). This is just an example of how much our aging UK electrical infrastructure needs to be modified to embrace home charging for EV's & electrical driven heat pump heating systems to replace gas central heating. I have no plans to have an Air to Water heat pump system installed because my existing CH system uses 10mm microbore pipes which are not suitable for an A2W HP system. However, an Air to Air Heat Pump system (my old line of work) may be an option to replace my Gas CH system. Either way even more electrical capacity would be needed than I currently have. However I digress. The NG engineer that I spoke to admitted that if a few more people in our street wanted to have EV chargers &/or heat Pump systems installed then the local electrical substation would have to be replaced or upgraded to coup with the increased demand.

UPDATE: Skoda dealership looked at the car today and diagnosed a faulty oil seal (not sure which but guessing probably crankshaft) which had allowed oil to leak on to clutch plate so now getting the whole thing repaired under warranty after all. {sigh of relief}

Demon freeze for me from asda or b&m pretty good stuff

thommo41 I ordered my Race Blue vRS petrol estate manual on 30th March 2022. Original delivery date was April 2023. My dealer in Cardiff informed me the build week was 48 and the car is currently on the way to the docks in Germany. Hoping it'll be at the dealer for mid January. My advice is to keep waiting. It'll be here soon...

Yup, I notice that too. Tis cool to see it in action.

I’ve used Prestone screen wash concentrate from Costco for years.

You have drained the diff, not the haldex! don’t drive the car until the correct fluid is in the correct place

In reality (providing you have off road parking) charging an EV (especially overnight on a cheap tariff) is one of the major plus points in owning an EV.

Drive it. If you understeer and crash, it won't have one fitted. 😀 That one looks like an original 245 so should have the VAQ.

Possibly but unlikely, how would you charge a car that had been SORN'd?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info

If replacing the belt I would definitely change the tensioner. I guess even if you plan to change the car getting the whole job done adds value to the right buyer.

Best practice would be to replace the belt rather than retensioning the existing one. Also, I'd ask what sort of contribution the "technicians" that changed the radiators and thermostat are prepared to give you as compensation for unnecessary works, I'm that sure the issue is the water pump.

I've had both in hybrid flavour. They're both the same car in terms of driving dynamics. Some different spring rates don't change much. Turning circle to rival an oil tanker. Personally think the superb is better looking outside but the Passat has the better interior. Superb has more legroom and a marginally longer boot. However the boxier shape of the Passat means it's actually a more useful loadspace. Go for the highest spec / lowest price combo. Avoid a MIB3 equipped car

Oh and remember needs to be less than 2kgs, so no grilles, spoilers eg

I've never had problem's with them, ordered some bits on Black Friday, just waiting on Royal Fail to deliver, was sat at Langley for a month with all the strikes that they've been having, hopefully should be delivered in the next few days. Was a lot easier and quicker pre-Brexit when they used DPD.

I meant after market ones, the new Osram night breaker leds are road legal just not in UK They do have a list of cars they’ve certified them on and the superb is one of them, but it would be for halogen headlights as that’s H7/H4 https://www.osram.de/am/night-breaker-led/night-breaker-led-ledcheck.jsp?mkt=/nb-led/ https://www.osram.com/ecat/NIGHT BREAKER H7-LED-LED lamps (street-legal)-Car lighting-Automotive/com/en/GPS01_3401765/ Osram led compared to NBL xenon https://youtu.be/SYBMbS0rES4

Really interest accounts from everyone on their battery. I noticed my battery getting low from the previously mentioned warning you get "Manoeuvre braking currently unavailable." when you start up the engine. I've also been using the heated windscreen, AC and heating on full blast during the cold weather, that and the infotainment screen being on, dashcam powered from the USB port and then a relatively short journey all drained the battery. I've since turned off the interior lights, plugged the dashcam to an external battery back, turned off the infotainment and driven for longer (one night I just decided to do a long lap along the south coast) and it's since improved the battery charge. I no longer get the "Manoevure braking currently unavilable." warning. One other thing I should mention, I always turn off the Auto Stop/Start system when I start up the car and rarely use it, though I'm still contemplating whether I should get the Auto Disable Stop/Start module from overseas....

I know I'm repeating myself but a Skoda dealership in Munich informed me that, having checked my VIN (Irish Reg VRS TDI) that the interval was 210,000km without a time limit but would advise every 10 years just in case. The 10 year interval sounds far more reasonable. That said, on the issue of who I would get to change my belt, in Ireland the dealer wanted €500 but the peace of mind of the 2 year warranty is worth the extra €50 vs the independent imo. Got a quote of €550 from the German dealer.

I’ve been using Unipart ‘All Season’ screenwash concentrate at a 50:50 mix successfully for several years now. It does seem to be more difficult to track down though these days. Halfords concentrate isn’t too bad either at the same dilution although it is a few quid more when bought in the same quantity. (5L)

Yep, I'm thinking the same as ords: Which mostly relates to the 2.0's, but is worth a read. Gaz

When you stop (at a trafic light for instance), you can even notice the beam getting narrower on the rear bumper of the car just ahead. Quite funny…

Its so much faster but less smooth to say. But the different modes are still like original in terms of shifting which I really like.

It is almost certain the water is getting trapped inside the rear door or passing inside the rear door before getting to the rear passenger foot area.

This thread has all the info you need on wheels for Superb 2:

A simple one for you, get your battery checked. I had lights appear on the dash,eml, epc, and traction control lights, weird. This was random but began to get more regular and each time also went into limp mode. Codes read said it was the throttle position sensor, it was telling fibs my mechanic said. He's seen it before on VAG group cars. A simple check told him the battery was not up to the job. I have stop/start but mines a Toledo (same engine and electrical basically) he ordered a new battery fitted it and car's been fine ever since. He told me even though the battery starts the car, everything works electric wise there's a drop in signal back to the throttle position sensor from the battery telling the cars electrical system there's not enough power available. Anyways one new stop/start battery later all happy. Not saying yours is the problem but get it professionally checked.

@EnterName No they do not know the vehicle at Public Chargers. Anything is possible, but in the UK the incompetents in the Government can not organise a p!ss up in a brewery, they certainly do not like anyone being able to be tracked incase it applies to them. If they could take away the Passport of anyone other than Football Hooligans or young girls that join terrorist groups they would. Time they do clamp down on uninsured or no MOT or VED vehicles filling up at filling stations that should all have ANPR cameras. EV Chargers do not even know the identity of someone tapping a Credit Card or Debit Card or a Charge Place Scotland card. It could be any ones. As to the DVLA and Database, that is crap, as to SIM cards in EV Chargers and reception, communication , that can be crap.

My six-year-old has been parked outdoors since purchase. The sunroof works fine and is used as often as possible. Just make sure yours is working before purchase. The only time I ever had trouble with a sunroof was on a 1995 Renault 19, which was routinely parked under a lime tree. The tree sap sealed the roof and the motor broke when I tried to open it. I don't park under trees anymore.

Got my **** together and took the car to skoda service. The problem was in the ignition coil (i think that it is translated like that) on 3-rd cilinder.

In a few minutes you will have link via PM

Like for like engine, definitely Passat.

Think how much room you would have if the 2nd car was another Justy or pretty much any small family car of the time. That is a decent sized 2 car garage but not for anything modern and bloated, even the Fabia looks huge against it. You desperately need some more racking and storage in there but in the interim I like how you have turned the stepladder into a rack for the squirty stuff!!!! Creating more space in the garage/workshop is what I am working on at present, I have more tools and materials to bring to site for the house renovation which is not going to start until the workshop is sorted and useable with the equipment and materials in it, I have learned the hard way that otherwise you just become buried. First job after that is to double the size of the workshop to be able to work properly and have a seperate woodworking area, only then can the house renovation start. Until then I have to live in the caravan.

Not really anything progress related but I'll post anyway. I have since tried (carefully) putting gasket sealant stuff onto the mating surfaces for the cork gasket, as a way to secure it properly and stop it slipping. It needs to cure so can't do any more there. Did take out the thermostat too to have a look, seems stuck solid. Dumped it into some boiling water and nothing happened. Will have to track down another it seems. With that out of the way, someone was up looking at the justy the other day and pointed out to me that if I moved some ****e about, I might be able to stuff it into the back of the garage and fit another car in. Wasn't doing too much so decided to try that out. Did create a fair mess moving stuff around. But it did seem possible. It's really jammed in though. The freezer isn't being used but I had to keep it in the garage. So I shove some bits of the Monte into it and pushed it deep under the stairs. Next problem is this old table top, I can't move it myself so it couldn't go anywhere either. With it out of the way I could get another few inches. Left myself some space on this side. Just in case. Slowly taking shape. Final test to see if all this hassle was worth it. It fits, just. Have about 6 inches from the front of the Monte to the garage door. I can't fit anything bigger than a fabia, but considering that's all I have, it doesn't matter. An hour or so spent but happy with the result. Can't complain about turning a 1 car garage into a 2 car garage for free.

First problem I ever had in a car was the heater not working I changed the thermostat and everything was fine, just as well, I was on the mendips with frost, snow and driving winds. I fitted a radiator blanking plate (a piece of hardboard) to the bottom half of the radiatorwhich stayed there the rest of that winter.

Try on the link above. Thanks, AG Falco

Checking the pr-codes for the vin or using a scan tool to check the module is fitted are the obvious options. I think there might be an extra option in the individual driving mode setup too. I can't remember the wording though...

If I were you I'd choose the higher specification Passat especially if it's for the same price or cheaper than the Superb with less specification. Personally I prefer the look of the Superb pre-2019 facelift and would pick the Passat if I came to your choice. Something about the small LED foglights didn't sit well with me, so it's nice that the Passat has the larger shaped foglights. I also also add that the more models that are sold there, the more spare parts should be available though touch wood you'd never have to go for any major repairs like that.

If you go into the driving modes, then choose individual and then click on change. In the next menu there will be the option of front differential lock, 2 settings - sport or normal. If you cannot see them, then the VAQ diff isn't fitted. Similar to this at 1:30 onwards:

That's if a 1.5t owner were to use a Skoda dealership to change their belt on a 5 year old car, I certainly wouldn't, I'd use a good independent garage & save a considerable amount.

Hi Phil, Nice to know the early enthusiasts are still around and carrying the flag 👍. Mine was second hand and 6 months old when I bought it . Peter

On thin ice:

Good to hear, if it is helpful. I strongly suggest to repair both of them, as they will anyways fail sooner than later.

I feel so happy for you. AFH swap is an excellent upgrade. Did you upgrade the brakes too? Just what I think.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Any other warnings or lights, did it happen at the same times as doing something else? Could be lots of things of course but if it's quicker and easier to access a multimeter than a scan tool that's where I'd start. Check your battery's state of charge, wait about an hour or more after you have switched off the engine and see what figure you get (depending on the reliability of the multimeter, cheap ones not used often I find give odd figures after about a year, just out of warranty of course). Let us know how you get on.

Have you tried the simple "fix"? Disconnect battery for a couple of hours and plug it back in again after. This fixed all my problems.

They don't need preload, those instructions assume that you're reusing the old tappets which are already partially pumped up. You've fitted new ones which are already completely compressed so the setting procedure is different.