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Me too! Briefly, I thought my life was over..... 😢 I felt sure that little torch would save the day. Im over it now.

I own a lot of wheels. Even considering that I have three viable cars and the same number of projects, I have sufficient wheels that I have avoided keeping them all in the same place for fear that my partner might notice how many there are. Once I finally accepted I had thirteen Oz F-1s in 16” that I was unlikely ever to have a use for I reluctantly advertised them for sale. Two sets (the grey and the silver ones in the picture) had tyres which were worn or perished or both, and I sold those quickly and cheaply to people who needed a different size of tyres anyway. The yellow ones had a decent set of Toyo T1-Rs on them so I wanted to see a better price, which was not forthcoming at the time. My solution to this would not be the obvious one to most people, because my plan was to buy another set of wheels. I reasoned that if I found a set of 16” steel wheels for the Caddy, I could fit the Toyos to those, then sell the yellow Oz wheels without tyres, and also sell the black 15” steel wheels which are on the Caddy in earlier posts on this thread. It took a while, but eventually I found a set of Renault Megane Scenic 16” steel wheels which are 4x100 PCD to suit the Caddy. I had been debating whether to paint them in the same grey as the bodywork, but instead I decided on VW LA7Y which is my favoured gunmetal shade for alloy wheels. I wanted to put a red pinstripe on them but I could not work out how to do this neatly until I noticed the lip on the rim. The backs and lips were painted in the same Hammerite ruby red I used on the fronts of the other 15” wheels, and finally after three coats the coverage of the gunmetal looked passable too. Once the T1-Rs (in 205/45 R16) came off the Oz F-1s and onto these Renault wheels, the F-1s went back on eBay. Ironically, they sold for a price that I would happily have accepted for them previously complete with tyres. Happy days indeed. The Renault wheels sat in a stack in the corner of the workshop for a while, but eventually I got them onto the Caddy. They look a bit more ‘scene’ than I was hoping, but I am pretty pleased with them nonetheless. This does now mean I have more Winter-oriented tyres on my 16” wheels and more Summer rubber on the 15” wheels, which is probably the wrong way round, but as part of the object of the exercise was to find a use for the good Toyo tyres this was unavoidable. Meanwhile the black 15” steel wheels were also sold. Having rationalised my wheel collection by selling thirteen Oz F-1s and four steel wheels, I am still not exactly suffering from a wheel shortage!

I use an old fashioned "belt it with a hammer" impact driver for disc/drum retaining screws. As long as the screw head's not wrecked before I get there, it works every time.

I just investigated connecting to an external WiFi - yes you can BUT unlike a tablet, which will use whatever is best (mobile network or WiFi), the infotainment will only do one or the other. If you connect to a WiFi it will drop the eSIM mobile connection. What I don't know is if it will go back to the eSIM if a) you drop the WiFi or b) you go out of range of the WiFi. On the basis that I don't want to lose the eSIM at the moment I've well alone. But in the future if I start getting charged for the eSIM I may drop it completely and just use the WiFi option.

Maybe I phrased it poorly Ken; what I was meaning is that you cannot watch pressure numbers via a pressure switch, as the OP seemed to be suggesting when he mentioned "I was checking if an app could check oil pressure for now..." He already changed the 'sensor' so it's not likely to be a problem with debris in the old switch. The only pressure information available from the switch is 'above threshold' and 'below threshold', which the instrument cluster is already using, with engine rpm factored in, to indicate a problem to the driver via the red light. The OP or his partner may well find that changing gear to increase rpm on these hills where the problem seems to show itself will help. Low rpm makes it harder to maintain good oil pressure. That's a temporary workaround though, not a suggested 'fix'. How many km has this car covered, and what exact oil is it currently operating with since last June? If that's unknown, do an immediate oil change using 50400/50700 compliant oil with a high quality filter.

Without a doubt and after 7000 kms with Koni special active installed, I think I should have ridden the B6s. For the next time.

Thanks. So if a FMDSH or just a FSH then are the spark plugs changed already. And had the airfilter even been looked at at the last services?

Just pump the 205/55R16 tyre to 44psi once a year, when it's stored in the spare wheel well. Even if the spare tyre doesn't have a slow puncture, it will still slowly go down like any other tyre over time. After a year, the 44psi might have gone down to around 38psi. This is because no tyre is 100% air tight. With bicycle tyres, you might find that you have to pump them up every two weeks as they go down a lot quicker than car tyres. 38psi should still be enough to get you home, as you won't be driving fast, ie. not over 50mph. Even if they went down to as low as 35psi, I doubt that would cause you any problems getting home at 50mph. It's not like the tyres would overheat at such a slow speed even if the car was heavily loaded. Of course, with different tyre sizes on the same axle, you would want to be driving round corners at a gentle pace.

Appears to be four catch type things on the underside, why they make things difficult, because they can! Personally I'd give the edges a sparing spray of GT85 (releasing/ penetrating lubricant with PTFE) and ease up one side of the four then the opposite, then third and fourth. Or break the other side to where you've broken the first and take it out as two parts and glue back together as one before refitting. Usual cosmetic job for sales of engine bay looking clean but mucky and unkept out of sight, compare new filter with old. I'd also have a look at the cabin filter and drainage channels in engine bay side and elsewhere just in case the leaves are there too.

Picking mine up on Thursday (ordered 6/9/2022, I should be more excited but I will be so sorry to see my excellent mark 3,5 go.

I've finally had an update! Octavia VRS hybrid ordered through leasing company in UK Sept 21. Got an email last in January I had an unconfirmed build date for August 23. I just received an email from leasing company to advise my car has a confirmed build date W/C 24th April and should be with with me start of June. I'm reluctant to be excited as don't want further disappointment. I won't believe it until its in my drive way! I've finally had an update! Octavia VRS hybrid ordered through leasing company in UK Sept 21. Got an email last in January I had an unconfirmed build date for August 23. I just received an email from leasing company to advise my car has a confirmed build date W/C 24th April and should be with with me start of June. I'm reluctant to be excited as don't want further disappointment. I won't believe it until its in my drive way!

After 10 years of Skoda ownership, covering a Fabia vRS, Octavia vRS and finally the Superb Sportline Plus, it's time to say farewell. Whilst not a prolific poster here on the forums, I've really enjoyed reading about people's experiences, ownership journeys, and advice. The Superb replacement is very different - a Jaguar F-Type R coupe. It certainly doesn't have the space of the Superb 🤣 Thank you everyone for making this a fun place to be an owner and hope everyone continues to enjoy these great cars.

A new UK brochure and prices has been released April 2023 Prices now £27,470 - 40,185 (before adding options) Just 3 spec levels for Karoq with 7 manual and 8 DSG versions https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/c63f4efb-a760-4a48-931f-baad88d42aa6 Cars with list price including added options (but excluding any discounts) over £40,000 incur an extra £390 per year car tax fee for 5 years. Here is link to accessories brochure, anything that is in it can be invoiced as separate transaction (even if fitted by dealer before delivery) if need to keep car under the £40k extra tax threshold https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/d0ba0841-dcb0-462f-9c23-21fe72de6185

@pinkpanther I’ll be even happier if I get to that! 😁

Properly fitted "tha blue teeth" the other day... That's the second one of those Kenwood stereos I've bought. The first ended up in my Gran and Grampa's caravan. Additionally, the rust has been properly repaired on one of the sill ends, but the sill is getting scabby elsewhere, but remains very solid. The work I've done would have Dali doing barrel rolls in his wooden box but it's functional. There's plenty other places I've still to do on the car, but will get around to.

Certainly economical - todays trip up the A1👍

Thank you for that - its very much appreciated 😊

I bought a two 30cm USB-C to USB-C cables, in bright blue to match the car. Amazon is your friend - huge range available.

I have left mine out and also blanked off the hole in the inlet pipe which runs across from the left to the air box across the top of rad. You can buy the clip in plastic part. mouse filled mine full of sunflower seeds 😕

Well did a longer run 14 miles into and out of Norwich and the MPG cameup to 45mpg since start, which is a improvement,the car is saying it is due a service in 25 days time , so will see how it improves after that .Oh the Tyre pressures are now correct, they were all over inflated .Suspect the plugs and air filter need replacing .

Trevor - if you know you want to tow a caravan and are buying new why not just get a tow bar fitted at the factory? Job done.

I would say you don't need a particulary high quality cable unless you are wanting to utilise it for fast charging over long lengths or use it for laptop charging. Usually cars have a feeble 0.5A or 1A charging output, not sure whether this has changed since the introduction of USB C outputs?

This is a handy video showing how to dismantle the dash: https://youtu.be/vzL4PNxddyM

I said this would happen when they were first introduced. It's more than likely cheaper to provide the VC than the analogue dials. A bit like digital watches. The first batch were expensive new tech that were shown off in jewelry stores. Now you can get them for a fiver on the market.

Quite possibly, based on the stop/start being disabled. That was how my mate knew his Superb needed a new battery. The "max revs" thing may be another undocumented bug though.

On the SportLine they’ve dropped the 19” Sagittarius alloys (with the ‘orrible cheese grater inserts) and gone back to 19” Vega’s, even though most of the photos of the SportLine in the brochure show it with the Sagittarius alloys & inserts. Still no option for 18’s from new on the SportLine unfortunately. I see there’s still no photos showing the smaller 8” virtual cockpit, it’s a pity they’re not more specific about showing what comes as standard rather than always showing optioned items such as the 10.25 “ virtual cockpit. I like how they say in tiny smallprint “that the vehicle shown is not UK spec” it’s a brochure for the UK market, come on Škoda!

I mean, you should avoid putting a space saver on wherever possible. But if I have a puncture on the front axle on the motorway, I’m not gonna be wasting time with a double wheel change, I’ll be changing that front wheel and getting out of there (cautiously)

The tow bar prep consists of adding suitable wiring and an ‘upgraded’ radiator grille and fan to improve cooling. The max tow weight is the same for any given model, though Skoda would no doubt say you shouldn’t tow without having the appropriate prep. I had a factory fitted tow bar and it works brilliantly, though I only use it for a bike rack.

Absolute legend, many thanks!

Toot, that's part of the problem. I have no idea what might fail on a 2018 Fabia, it's a new car to me, hence the desire for a manual in the car. I've already found that no Cruise is a feature, despite all the hardware being present for Adaptive Cruise. If I put it into reverse, the rear wiper turns on to intermittant. Not one wipe like my Fiesta did, but until I turn it off. I have 35 years Auto industry experience, two Auto degrees, and am a petrol head; so you'd be quite surprised at the roadside repairs I can do. An example would be a head gasket replacement on my 1968 Morris Traveller, with creative use of passenger beverages for coolant to get me to a garage. OBD dongle is a great idea, thanks! I have 4, so I'll pick one that talks to the phone properly. <M>

This sounds like the ignition module. It consists of two ignition coils, so the engine runs on two cylinders if one fails. Bad module is often sensitive to moisture because of cracked insulator, have you noticed this behaviour? Intermittent failures can be caused by the crankshaft sensor - diagnostics should show some error in this case. Last thing is the fuel pump - does this happen with low fuel level?

That's only for vRS models, especially at "meets", right?

Ps as to suggestions of higher gears or the likes. It is a DQ200 DSG. It is a case of into D or into S or between the 2 as and when or manual shifts, but really the DSG is working to achieve economy and getting to the higher gears asap unless in S. Then it is at a higher RPM before changing up.

@Alanhipperson25 can you maybe say what power of 1.2 TSI it is, how many miles has as it done, how many miles you have done in it. Has it got new spark plugs, a new air filter and what tyres are fitted, size and type and set at what pressure,? And is the car empty apart from you? All rather important stuff in the economy in the not be dry cold Norfolk even this winter. Any published Economy figures are pre WLTP and just as much fiction. They were done in a building on a rolling road with a car that had at least 3,000 km on the clock.

@rsw070697 How about learning to strip all the tracking cluff off FleaBay URLs? This would do it - http:// https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203606677255 I can't comment on "spongy" beyond that that might be fluid and might just be needing bleeding. You have the car and I don't. I can say that mine has a nice high clutch, good for racing changes. Pass.

The below rim might be ideal for a 205/65R16 tyre fitted to the Superb MK3, because a 215/55R17 tyre is sometimes fitted to a 7Jx17 ET40 rim as standard on the Superb MK3, ie. a 205/65R16 fitted to an ET33 rim would fill the wheelarch a similar amount to a 215/55R17 fitted to an ET40 rim, and the outside edge of the 6.5Jx16 ET33 rim would be in almost exactly the same position as the 7Jx17 ET40 rim. It has the same inflated width as a 215/60R16 fitted to a 6J rim, ie. an actual inflated width of 215mm, so should fit in the spare wheel well with the carpet flush. Vredestein Ultrac 205/65R16 95W (Euro label A A 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s2785p210548/Vredestein_Tyres_Car_Vredestein_Ultrac_-_205_65_R16_95W_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_A_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB 6.5Jx16 ET33 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from VW Tiguan) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=62269191771657328&rimCode=ALCAR9922

I was joking, British humour. I've never been cool at any age and certainly not now, though I am cold a lot more often now. I know very little about cars and mechanicals but when young had to learn a little as the cars were very old and simple then and you had to do a little to keep them going. I only returned to doing a bit on cars when I ran out of money and patience with poor quality professional work and realised I could do the job as badly myself without paying myself money. What very little I did know I keep forgetting or mixing up. One thing you learn when older is how very little you do actually know or previously thought you knew and that even very clever people have very limited knowledge. Life is about learning, and relearning, facts change and the internet has sped up loosing and changing facts, all the time, AI will loose or change more facts faster. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 30k Km (18k-miles) seems too long to me to leave checking the rear brakes and cleaning them given your hill use, what is the factory service interval for the rear brakes, and I would check before that given hill use. Depends on the shoes you use as to how much they shed, if the rear brakes are reasonably clean and lubricated after the 30k km hill use then fair enough, you will know better than. I had to check/adjust the rear shoes on the Midget every 6 months (if adjustment was needed this would also improve pedal feel and take some slack off handbrake - but these were different drum set up to yours). I would inspect clean and lubricate the shoes and mechanisms and drums every 12 months as I knew the age and use of the drums and shoes. Shoes uprated in size to try to match the uprated front pads but it is more about friction material than size (similar to tyres).

And of course this is what you need, please disregard my previous post. Br, Raoul

Thank you @PetrolDaveand @ords for your help, both issues now sorted😁

I'm sure that I came across that sort of value on my daughter's 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra, but in the event, I considered that it only needed new rear pads and the discs would be okay for use with these 2nd set of pads at a low mileage, so I didn't need to take the rear carrier bolts out. Edit:- from memory, I would have been buying new bolts to replace the rear carrier mounting bolts if I had had to remove them as in my mind, tightening to these torques, then + an angle setting justifies doing that - as well as maybe the bolt head would have suffered from corrosion, so maybe not so easy to get off next time - that is all. Actually as you mentioned it, that 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra rear carrier bolts were also 90Nm +90deg, and the front carrier bolts were 200Nm with new bolts required on re-assembly.

@sirhc93 You have PM for 0480 version.

Most likely failure area will be the wiring loom that passes through from the front wing pillar to the driver's door. Search on here for "broken wiring loom" or similar. If you don't find anything I'll see what I can find when I get back to base.

If it has failed as a result of the wrong oil being drained during a Haldex service then it will be pretty much unrepairable unless the person stopped driving at the very first tiny signs of noise, I did so and have been in remission for 3 years but its damaged , noisy and at best in remission, it willsurely fail before I am ready to part with the vehicle. Lippy 427, to my knowledge there is very little if any difference between the various part numbers, the ratios are the same for all vehicles, unlike the front diff or a RWD diff which would have differing ratios according to power plant wheel size etc the rear diff ratio has to match that of the transfer box and that I believe has remained constant. The differences in part number suffix I believe relate to the Haldex controller which surely must be included for £5164! When I was looking I only wanted the diff and not the controller, I just missed on one at £200 that had hung around for a long time, the others were £3-£400, that was 3 years ago now, lots have failed since so the price may have risen. I don't think you risk getting a bad one from a breaker, only someone dodgy selling their old failed one, aside from an incompetent lack of lubricant I think they are bulletproof and will easily last the life of the vehicle. When this incompetent drained his diff oil believing it to be Haldex fluid what came out was a clean as the day it was filled in the factory 79000 miles before, that can't be said for the carbonised the dribbles that came out 200 unlubricated miles later or the diff oil put in for 20 miles to flush out any other contaminants. I must do them both again soon and see how both the diff and Haldex are holding up.

No they didn’t, which is becoming usual. Apparently they were hoping for a response by yesterday lunchtime, and didn’t get one. When they do it’ll need booking in again… 13th visit in a year for software issues to be not fixed or partially fixed. I’ve got an open case with the Executive Office, but that doesn’t seem to be getting any faster progress.

My previous vRS Estate (2015) would take my XL e-bike (29" wheels) complete, albeit with the back seats down and a little bit of settling to stop anything rubbing. Laying down (of course) and diagonal, with the rear wheel by the back of the passenger seat, and the front wheel/handlebars over by the offside rear, tailgate closed. I never did it, because I'm a lazy git, but I often thought taking the floor side pedal off the pedal arm would make it fit better. Gaz

I think you need to pay off the finance by asking for a settlement figure, but someone with better knowledge than me may correct that.

I'm seeing two 12V feeds on pins 18 and 20 of a 20-way connector at passenger front window motor, red/yellow thin one and red/white thick one, respectively. Got both? Measure relative to earth on pin 19 to test earth return intactness.

Ordered 2021 sep 15 and delivered 2023 mar 22. All time i wasn't get any biuld date hothing just two weks before delivery they informed me it's already bound and coming to lithuania

Finally the car is here! Can't wait to get the keys. 🥳

I was thinking - as Skoda only have on line servicing records then surely I should be able to see the headline history of my recently acquired car on the App. Wrong - for some reason my 2015 Rapid is not compatible - the range of services is described as "limited" - an understatement. So I guess the only other option is to see if my local dealer can print it off for me?