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No, some mods don't affect certification but others like removing the cat do.

To have any chance of getting redress you may need to resort to legal action, the Consumer rights act 2015, covers this, any item be it sn egg whisk to cars. In your case a recent low milage used car is covered by this, but your car was registered in 2018 if I understand right, The CRA 2O15, Stipulated that it is a reasonable expectation for any goods, In your case a used car is expected to last for 6 yrs i.e. be of merchantable quality,and fit for purpose. If within 6 months of purchase it fails ,then you have a right to have it repaired, replaced or a refund, without YOU having to prove anything. If it fails after 6 months of purchase then it's I cum ent upon you showing proof as to why it failed, which means you have to find an independent expert to examine it and say what the fault is. In your case, it's a border line case. My advice is seek advice from Citizens advice bureau, if they say you have a point, then seek a solicitor to seek redress. First action is make a formal complaint in writing, explaining what is wrong, what you are expecting to happen to redress it, then if they will not accept or agree, then commission a legal to seek an outcome. I am currently in a dispute for a failed scooter, which is likely to be a long drawn out process, I bought it as a low mileage bike, the engine failed within 4 months 800 miles of use, the scooter was about 2 yrs old. ,but I expect to recover the majority of the expense from the trader. Do not be fobbed off, be persistent, your claim is with the trader and not Skoda UK, You may have to take it to the Small claims track at county court to get the matter settled, it will take time, but the Consumer rights act is strongly in your favour. But you must make a formal complaint in writing ,setting out your position and what action you will take, if they do not want to discuss it. Ultimately it is that will get their attention, normally it's the threat of legal action that gives results. Be firm, be positive, take action.

The likelihood of passing an MOT with a decat is very low, and removing the cat on a car certified to need one (which a Mk1 Octavia is) then using it on the road is AFAIK a moving traffic offence which is why plod would be 'interested'. We're not trying to make you a nervous wreck, just making sure you understand the legal niceties of deleting the cat on a road car.

If he knows his stuff, he’ll advise somewhat similar to what I’ve said. As my advise is gathered from here over the years and my own remapping. Also, don’t get caught by the plod as they’d have a field day with no back box or cat.

Maybe they re-installed the air vent hole on another car as part of its de-commissioning 🤣 Gaz

I finally installed the 6+6 red and whites LEDs. No more Skoda logo on the floor for front doors. Back to simplicity :

Been a while. Always wondered why we couldn't feel any air coming through the roof vent so decided to check......sure that's supposed to be cut in especially being a dog unit. Standard Exhaust snapped while doing a tip run so took a punt on the gravity stainless, lovely fitting bit of kit and sounds nice too. I'll be ordering their sports cat soon. Got a box full of new bits to tidy up the underneath, all new rear arms and I'll be on the lookout for a subframe and arb to get blasted and powdercoated so it's all fresh. Got a bag full of bolts, nuts and washers from tps to replace all those just need to order up the subframe bolts and I'll do the deadset kit while I'm there. Then onto the front. Hopefully the next few months I'll be swapping out the nasty stance+ coils for some bc's and it'll be booked in for paint (fingers crossed).

Couple of photos of some Cygnets down at the local park plus some bonus shots of the newest resident of the home 😂

Although our Octy Mk4 has been the best car we've driven, because of long delivery times I was hoping to order a new iV estate for delivery before the warranty runs out in May 2023. When I visited the dealer, I was informed that the Octavia and Superb are currently not being made owing to materials shortage. I was offered a look at an Enyaq, but I don't like it: it's too chunky, too expensive and I don't want a car which cannot be refuelled in a few minutes. None of the other conventional cars in the present Skoda range are suitable, nor are the PHEVS offered by Kia, Citroen and Peugeot: all are too chunky and bland. I had a final check with Skoda Customer Services and they confirmed that it's unlikely an Octavia would be available next year. So after twenty years and six Skodas, we have placed an order for a Toyota Corolla Hybrid estate. It was a great test drive with some clever technology because, despite the two litre engine, over a seven mile journey on a mix of 30mph and unrestricted roads, the car averaged 65mpg with 74% of the time using the battery. I hadn't driven a car with CVT since the dreadful DAF55 many years ago, but it was faultless, although the different engine noise under acceleration will take a little time to get used to. The delivery time is about five months, but as second hand car prices are strong at present I don't mind changing early. Because of the software issues with our Octy for the first year, I'd never keep it (or any PHEV for that matter) beyond the three year warranty as a warranty extension is quite expensive and I'm wary of more expensive software or hardware faults developing.. Also, as long as the Toyota is serviced by a Toyota dealer, the warranty extends after three years by a year per service up to ten years and the battery is guaranteed for fifteen years. I am very sorry to move on from Skoda: until now, the cars have been reliable (except the Octy for its first few months) and our dealer for the last 12 years, Derek Slack Motors, have been excellent. Unfortunately, Skoda has lost the plot as far as I'm concerned and is moving too upmarket as regards pricing, whilst dropping its most suitable cars: the wonderful Yeti (we had two) and the Octy (we also had two). I just hope we don't regret the change and that Toyota's reputation for reliability, as vouched for by Which? magazine, proves to be the case for us. So it's good bye Briskoda and thanks for all the interesting posts and helpful advice since I joined.

Is it me or did the latest update (iOS) of the MySkoda app break it? I can see the car and can get the outside temp for example but I no longer see the doors and lights section. Assuming it’s a simple one, is this feature free for ever or something you need to renew? I mean my dads 2021 Kia has this kind of tech as standard with nothing to pay to keep it going. My car is probably 90 days old so I wonder if it simply isn’t free and a trial expired or something? Thanks in advance.

A bit more progress to report - 03866452 AO Audi Executive Office <*****@*****.tld>     To: You Thu 18/05/2023 13:51 Ref: 03866452 Dear Mr Powell Thank you for your recent with contact with Audi Germany. As your email address which you have submitted on the enquiry is that of a UK address, Audi Germany have sent your details to Audi UK to respond on their behalf, as you would fall under the UK jurisdiction. As Audi UK's Director, Andrew has asked me to personally investigate the matters raised and ensure that you have a dedicated point of contact. I would like to assure you that, as a member of the Executive Office, I am empowered to act on Andrew’s behalf and will of course seek to bring your concern to a resolution. In order for me to progress your case in a timely manner, may I please request some additional information from you? Your vehicles registration or VIN number. Your full address with postcode. My details are at the bottom of this email should you need to provide any further information. If not, I will be in touch again within the next 48 hours, after I have reviewed your correspondence fully. Kind regards Richard Speight Executive Office Customer Relations Manager

I'd not be in a rush to buy modern made rubber hoses as they can sometimes be low, very low or abysmal quality. If you can get a set of preformed silicone hoses then yes, I'd take off a few of the easy to get at hoses that just requires the coolant level to be dropped a bit and inspect them internally and externally and if they look good they'd stay for me. Obviously if you see any of the others damaged or aged externally they may need changing at greater priority. Unless there's a particular problem with trapped air on the Estelles I'd not worry about a vacuum bled I've just read and followed what's in various Handbooks for old cars (called "classics") and never had any problems. Others have used other systems and had issues mainly I think by not reading the instructions and requirements in the Handbooks and I've never had to leave the cap off or pump a main hose just draining (or syphoning if partial) and steady refills following the book (or "bible" as others joked when I always suggested its use). Same with brakes and hydraulic clutch flushes and bleeds I just use gravity (or push-pedal if in more of a hurry) and one-man-one-jar method and never had problems whereas those using other methods seem to get issues - I suspect because they're in more of a rush. I must admit the idea of drawing the air and fluid up to the highest point did appeal but I never bothered as I'd still got the jars and hoses. It's not that I'm any good at mechanics, the very opposite, but allow lots and lots of time to myself and don't need to prove how fast I can do the job to impress others, but I have made stupid mistakes by being careless, easily resolved but reminded me that I was not as thorough as I thought I was or used to be. I generally loathe working on my own car, or my wife's, but I'm a cheaper idiot than many of the professionals and specialist I've paid lots of money to previously. Most servicing and maintenance boils down to cleaning and lubricating, if you take your time and care you can often do a thorough job with good results. These are very simple cars generally you don't need any special equipment think how basic things might have been for owners in other countries. I used garden hose and buckets for flush, back-flush and flush again, off-cut hose and bungs or cloths and my lungs to evacuate residue from various parts of the cooling/heating system once down to open-ended areas (careful not to hyperventilated). If you want to use a vacuum for emptying, and containing to inspected and safe disposal fine but unless you know different it should not be for worry of bleeding.

Hello K, are you asking about switching from DSG to manual selection of gears through the stick while on the move? - if so, yes - just move stick to side (M) and push forward to change up, pull back to change down.

That would be wise. We're here to help and not offer daft advice as seen on Facebook. And, as Dave said they'd use the 'Construction & Use" act, would cover any car that left the factory, alterations then make it illegal. i.e. removing a back box which is there from the factory. Of course, there is common sense and not all officers are out to get you. But, if you happen to come across a joint operation of Police/DVLA, and they find something like a decat, they prohibit the car from the road, and you'd require a new MOT. GCM on Youtube did a great series covering a lot of this with a Police officer.

Hi. You can normally drive and switch gear leaver from D to S and back with no issues. I only wouldn't recommend changing it when under full throttle or full braking. Not sure what you mean with "DSG gear". If you mean the paddle shifters behind the steering wheel, then yes. You can also use them when in D mode.

As per above - set to home screen. Same if you use Android Auto. If you turn off the ignition when the Android Auto screen is on then it'll be Google maps that's displayed when you switch on again. PS - apologies. From your initial post I thought you meant each time the system switched on it was displaying radio or whatever.

If you find the engine number it might confirm if the engine is the original. If it has a stamped plate with the engine number it can be transferred but often will have the wrong. Another reason for not going strictly by even the Owner's Handbook if you think you're setting the original engine and it's been swapped out with a different engine with different settings. And of course how things were set for a new engine in 1990 will be different to now as it's used and patrols and oils are different. Not being used sine 2021 it could have a lot of airborne debris in the engine bay, you've took the air filter out so that should give you a clue when compared against a brand new one, the rough idle might be a minor clean and/or tweak of the carb but I'd still do a service of the engine and set up before the carb (as it's last in the chain) even if the engine oil looks clean on the dipstick. I also like to do a whole coolant/heating system clean, flush, back-flush, flush and refill, including engine block drain and heating matrix as soon as practical as unnecessary engine heat can cause other issues or upset other systems from best running. Also to see the state of the coolant from the rad, engine block and matrix which can give clues to how well things might be internally. When convenient, like when installing new parts or summer warmer drier weather, I do a more thorough cleaning to include removing the rad, hoses, stat, and matrix and individual flushing off the car. I only do it once then just thorough coolant changes. On the MGs replacing heaterbox seals can mean the heat actually makes it to the cabin and the cabin gets hot (or warmish for MGBs in winter) too hot for Spridgets. Check the coolant system pressure cap as IIRC they could go and make you think it might be HGF.

Not a very bright dealer, as that's the map SD card for a MIB1 Amundsen as fitted to an early Octavia 3. I suggest you post in the Octavia 2 forum and ask how map updates should be done https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/ *Edit* Some surfing shows that if you have an Amundsen it will be an RNS310, so you need an SD map card for an RNS310 not a MIB1.

Could the airbox be from another vehicle. If you have any papers for work done on the engine or cylinder head it might say if it was converted (hardened valve seat fitted) - if it was required anyway. Otherwise you can get additives that cover lead replacement and ethanol (and even with octane enhancement). Valvemaster range from the MG Owners Club and Millers VSPe Power Plus Multi Shot from Millers Oils and possibly others that I don't know about. Not unusual to find that only one or two people kept any history, you're lucky if you get the original Owner's Handbook and spare keys that came with the car new as these are the types of things that owners mislaid. If you have a Haynes workshop manual for the range and it doesn't match with what is in the Owner's Handbook (subject to that being correct for your car) always suspect the Haynes has it wrong as that is most likely. And the Haynes wont give you the useful information the original Owner's Handbook does but do bear in mind that was written over 30 years ago and oils and some parts have improved a lot since then (some modern made parts though are now crap). MoT history might give you some idea of what was being done to or with the car at the times but there can be a lot of personal opinion with Mot testers and the same advisories can come and go over the years. More important of course is how the car is now, if the car has been used since 2021 even more reason to carry out a staggered fully 36k-mile service/checks to build from a good base and datum point, if you do the work you know for certain what was done and when and how.

I'm sure that you weren't, hence my suggestion that your comment might be in fun. This is the problem with the internet and why it can generate so much friction (or why it can purposely be used to generate friction by some people, though not yourself), there is nothing other than the writer's words, whereas if you were in the same room and were speaking together, there would be facial and body movements and voice intonation to convey/add to the meaning of what was being said. Even in a 'phone conversation, the tone and inflection of the speaker's voice confirms the context of what they were saying. My apologies to you, too, as re-reading what I wrote, I was somewhat hard on you.

as above, you need a diverter valve not a dump valve. forge 007p(iirc) with the right spring seems to work very well. and it would need reconfiguring of the map, its going to be looking for exhaust pressure readings that arent there with a straight through exhaust. (and hope you dont sniffed out or heard by your local LEA... )

I've now finished soundproofing and upgrading the speakers. Sound Proofing 2 packs of Noico 2 mm 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) car sound deadening mat applied to: Under bonnet Inside tailgate Boot floor Around rear wheel arches in boot Under rear seats Inside all 4 doors 4 rolls 50cmx200cm acoustic foam (the stuff sculpted like egg cartons) applied to: All for door cards In and around the rear wheel arches I only have about 5% of those materials remaining, so the above quantity seems to be just the right amount. Speakers 4x Focal IS VW 165 speakers. Notes: The tweeters connect to the woofers in parallel, which required some soldering (could also use spade connectors). The original cables to the tweeters are redundant. The tweeters don't fit into the existing slots in the doors, so a bit of trimming with a Stanley knife and a hot glue gun are required. The connector on the woofer cables needs to be cut off and the +ve and -ve cables need to be either soldered to the woofers/spade connectors used. The original woofers are held in by plastic rivets which need to be drilled out. M5 rivet nuts are ideal for mounting the new woofers. Overall, I'm very pleased with the end result. The car feels very refined with low cabin noise (granted I didn't find it overly noisy to start with, certainly compared to what I was used to with my previous car). In particular, I find that whilst cabin noise is still present at lower speeds, the difference is that the existing noise remains subdued as one accelerates. A couple of times on smooth roads I've barely noticed creeping up from 50 to 60 to 70mph because the cabin noise doesn't increase at the same rate like it would do normally. The speakers are good. Much punchier. Perfectly loud enough with the original head unit and definitely plentiful bass which can be tuned with the equaliser. Depending on the song I'm playing, I may notice a quiet hiss at louder volumes during lulls in a song - unsure whether that's the media file itself (some of my music is FLAC and some is lower quality MP3) or the head unit starting to become the weak point in the system. I'm not particularly minded to upgrade the head unit but that would be the logical next step.

Getting the actually result of a diagnosis is the first step. ? Why was replacing the engine, or the gearbox even mentioned? Is it the DSG, is it the MCU faulty, clutch packs, fly wheel, selector forks, or actually a gearbox totally sha-gged and needing replaced. Unlikely that a gearbox and an engine, and if so a real issue for Skoda CZ and UK right there.

I've been using the 2024 maps with my MIB2 Amundsen for a couple of weeks and it's made no difference - TMC is still crossed out.

It's the naming convention that VAG use. 2110 is the release code for the June 2023 release. Any code lower and they are older maps. VAG did introduce an ambiguity in their naming convention but if you go by the release code you won't be wrong. Skoda themselves release six months later. So the November release will be the June release of Vag. Like heated up old bread of old, fresh bread cooked six months ago.

I'm not sure whether you're trying to be humorous or rude, but as this is a general Skoda issue, there is no reason why an owner of a model other than a Kamiq shouldn't comment on the issue to help clarify things. As for confusing the situation, Modders icon on the post does clearly say he owns a Karoq and so that is the car he is talking about.

If you’ve had a custom dyno and since changed the hardware, it’s recommend you go back and have it redone to match. Having a 3”straight through is a little much in my opinion. Is it a decat or do you have a sportscat installed? Also, are you actually running a ‘dump valve’? As these are not designed for our engines, and you should be running a ’Diverter Valve’. Take it back to your mapper and let him work his magic.

Ah, you obviously aren't as lazy as me!

Surely no crud in the bottom of your cars tank and you do have a filter. Morrisions or any other place is not feeding crud from their tank through the filters to the pumps then through the filter in the pump. 2023 we are on now & these are modern filling stations.

3up getting 3.6-4.9 (4.5 is more common top end) on 60-120 mile runs. Lower end is motorway upper is smaller roads using higher regen to slow.. Cold was more like 3.2-4 Rear camera doesn’t self clean as far as I can tell, but at same time I have had salt laden drives and not found it an issue. Cant comment on snow as not had any, Only time so far I missed the rear wiper was when I first got the car from an estate and was used to needing one. The i5 and ev6 are very different shapes mind. I wouldn’t say no to one of it was an option but I’m not currently upset it’s not there either. AC/heating, I leave it on auto and let the car do its thing. Have a heat pump, but the only button that gets used on climate tends to be “driver only” when it is. Real world 250-280 miles on a charge, longest round trip so far without stopping has been 230, but I’m getting used to letting I go below 25% still.

HatBoyHarvey's videos are very good. A gem of a resource for these cars.

I just jam it under the trigger of the fuel pump for hands free fill ups

I've had 6 drives and counting since doing the radio station logo thing, no reboots. Am I confident that this fixed it? God no, but I am happy to be proved wrong

Thanks JR. I think that it's lost motion because of some kind of clearance issue in the pedal to master cylinder shaft. It feels like completely free play. I want progressive brake actuation from the top of the stroke. I think I've been spoilt driving my wife's Karoq which although it appears to have an identical braking system, including the Drilled Brembos on the front has actuation from the top of the pedal, progressive braking and good feel. I'm beginning to think that after three and a bit years of ownership, I've had my fun with it and if I want to continue to drive quickly, I should sell it and buy a Porsche Boxster.

Thanks for all the pointers, this forum + HatBoyHarvey's videos on Youtube have helped me fix a lot of issues and keep this old but relatively low mileage car going

Yes, that's the right hose to be checking, and yes, looks like the correct fuel filter is fitted. Maybe try a compression test if you have a tester?

Is it an AGM or EFB battery, and has the car been coded to tell it a new battery has been fitted? If not it could still be load shedding to protect the old battery!

I don't think anyone is questioning that your gearbox is faulty but in the absence of an extended warranty the repair cost is your responsability. What is the relevance of them servicing the vehicle? FWIW you are being dragged down the usual path by the main dealer network, quote you a stupid price for the repairs and then offer a 50% contribution, you would be much better off taking the car to a transmission specialist. If they have already dismantled the vehicle or are claiming that they have then they have you by the ghoulies and to add insult to injury you will have paid them £250 to do so.

I'd think that the more expensive models/version will have some more sound insulation, but I've no idea if that applies or if it does, just how much it applies to Polo - Fabia - Ibiza, SEAT certainly used to have less sound insulation in their cars when compared to VW in this size of car, at least on the trim level of SEAT Ibiza we used to have in the family. Across the VW Group brands, there does seem to a variance in power train mounting "bush" part numbers.

With increased ride height Skodas such as the Scout, it might be best sticking to Skoda shock absorbers because aftermarket shock absorbers tend to be aimed at standard ride height cars. Therefore, if you go for aftermarket shock absorbers, they might not be a good match to the original Skoda shock absorbers.

Getting some sun on the Long Mynd

Also chassis legs treated for rust and painted. Engine has had genuine new crank seals either side, cam belt kit and tensioner, forge baffled sump, painted cam cover, single mass flywheel and new clutch, S3 engine loom fitted, ancillaries swapped. Just need to sort vacuum and coolant pipework out, fit the 6 speed box and then power train can go back in. Pics to follow..

Little update on the project. Rear beam painted and polybushes installed along with all new brake lines front to rear including goodridge flexi's. Whiteline ARB and Bilstein B16 adjustables. Just waiting on rear wheel bearings to arrive and then can fit the new calipers which have been painted and that's the rear end done then

I would not worry about lane assist it pointless mines off all the time ,you should know what lane your in ,sometimes cars over complicate matters👍

That's a festoon bulb, whether it's the correct one or correct wattage I don't know. It might be a 239 in old English or C5W in other speak (C I can't think what, 5 I guess for 5 watts and W for white light) but do check and not just go on what someone tells you on the interweb-thingy, especially if 'es old and poor mental faculties . Plenty of cheap crap LEDs about but I and others have found Classic Car LEDs to be a good company to deal with and good products, check with them which products might work, personally I'd not go for the very bright white light as it tends to bleach out the area negating its intended use, warm white might not look as bright but will be bright. Old, quaint idea I know bit I'd phone them to make the situation clear and get proper advice or product, saves time in the medium and long term. Classic Car LEDs. - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/

Purchased this stunning Superb 1.6TDI on March 30 so it was treated to a decent valet today by a local company and topped off with a coat of Fusso Wax and she's looking amazing again

As a genuine question, will better speakers improve the sound or will there be limitations due to the head unit ? I'd prefer better sound but dont want the faff of changing the radio but swapping the speakers like you are planning sounds much easier. Cheers

For the pre-facelift Superb, sadly there is no LED option. Only the facelift version comes with proper LED headlights. U could replace ur xenon bulbs with LED bulbs, but I would not recommend it as they require massive heat sinks or fans and get very hot. U won't b able to put the headlight cover at the back on, meaning it's no longer sealed, allowing dirt & water to get inside the unit. I got my Phillips XtremeVisions from Powerbulbs. Awesome company to deal with. Lots of sales/deals. Fast shipping. Highly recommended.

On the Kodiaq you have to un-tick the rear wipe when reverse selected option to stop the annoying rear wiper operating intermittently on a mostly dry rear window. It’s easy enough to flick the rear wiper as and when required. Not sure if Octavia is the same, but worth a look.

April fool.