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These are OE quality: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123658930308?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=mOcu-M9kQhS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=_BlMq7ebT3O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Unlike those fake Chinese sh1tters in your link!

For those experiencing Torque Steer, especially those running a tune, then i would highly recommend doing this coding, using either VCDS or OBDEleven. "The Torque Steer Compensation (TSC) is only being activated for Front-Wheel-Drive (FWD) Models which have a high powered Engine. This Function prevents the Car from leaning into one Direction while Accelerating in Combination with powerful Engines and unequal Lenghts Drive Shafts." I was experiencing even more torque steer after I had the ECU and DSG tune done to my car. I was getting torque steer even at speeds above 80 km/h when doing overtaking manoeuvres. the pulling is not nice. after making this change, the car doesn't feel squirmsih at all now under hard acceleration, or overtaking moves. i'm feeling more confident to push the 220kw/530Nm of power through the front wheels no more pulling!! no adverse effects or complaints from the car. would recommend it to anyone with a FWD and a tune. steps:- 1. go to 44-Steering Assist module 2. enter Security access code 19249 3. go to Long coding 4. Byte 00, select Torque steer compensation and select "active: without learned values" 5. Save (Do It), and ur done.

About due the spark plugs replaced for the 2nd time since new, has it had them replaced at any time in the past 7 & a bit years? Is there a nice clean / fresh air filter fitted?

Well done and a big thankyou to BreezyPete, its people like him that make this forum so great!

She cleans up alright

@LetsGowas there any service history with the car showing stuff actually done other than Oil & Inspection Services? The car is due a Cam Belt change. Many will not consider doing it at 5 years, but at 8 years it certainly is worth discussing getting done.

Engine "in" New 3" downpipe and the 6 speed box with quaife LSD that is worth more than the car 🙈. Not too far away now. Next up.. front subframe and suspension.

The default attitude to faults is generally that it must be something quick and easy or cheap to fix, this error is then compounded by soliciting confirmation bias online, most contributors are only too happy to support this flawed reasoning. I don't know why, but people generally make problems worse with bad decisions not based on the balance of probability, but based on optimism. So dumb.

6Q0411105K might be a suitable alternative to 6Q0411105AQ, ie. a similar spring. It's two weight ranges lower than 6Q0411105M which Kilen sell for the Fabia MK2 1.2TDI with lowered ride height. Now, the 1.2TDI engine is likely to be a little heavier than the 1.2 12V 51kW petrol engine, so two weight ranges lower should be about right. A pair of Kilen 25110 front lowered ride height springs (which match 6Q0411105K) are available on ebay for £72.97 including shipping. You might want to compare the below specification with your current 6Q0411105AQ front springs. The wire diameter of the current springs could be measured while still fitted to the car. Sachs list the wire diameter of 6Q0411105K as 12.00mm which I suspect might be correct, rather than 12.25mm, because the 6Q0411105M spring is two weight ranges higher but also 12.25mm. Kilen don't list the specification of their springs but it's always worth taking measurements before fitting any new springs. If there's a discrepancy after fitting, perhaps the vehicle is too high or too low, you can then refer to your notes for further investigation. Specification of 6Q0411105K (according to Optimal and others) Length 306mm Diameter 139mm Number of coils 5.3 Weight 1.8kg Wire Diameter 12.25mm (Sachs list the wire diameter as 12.00mm) Actual photo of 6Q0411105K lowered ride height front spring (notice the approximately 5.3 coil turns) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/kilen/9381388 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143320363712 Here's a selection of Fabia MK2 lowered ride height front springs that are shown in the Skoda parts catalogue. Notice that 6Q0411105K is two weight ranges lower than 6Q0411105M. 1 6Q0411105K Coil spring 2 paint marks 2 paint marks red green 2 PR-L11 1 6Q0411105L Coil spring 2 paint marks 3 paint marks red green 2 PR-L12 1 6Q0411105M Coil spring 3 paint marks 1 paint mark red green 2 PR-L13 1 6Q0411105N Coil spring 3 paint marks 2 paint marks red green 2 PR-L14 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/608/4/411/411020

Best go and get a alignment check done by a professional and another's eyes cast over the car, springs, dampers and steering. You want to know everything is as it should be before doing any modifications / upgrades.

Hello Lads, Many members are struggling with their DSG going in Neutral when they release the gas pedal and engage the “coasting function”. Especially with the facelifted cars with no drive mode selection option. You can disable the coasting function with VCDS, OBD11, VCP, ODIS E following those steps: Front hood open/popped, Module 19 - Gateway>Long Coding>FPA Funktion Freilauf DefaultON>Not Active Thats all. Enjoy your normal transmission behaviour. 😉

Hi, we have a late 2017 Kodiaq 1.4 which has only done 27k miles. Earlier this week my wife was doing the school run and when returning to the car with the kids it wouldn't start. After a couple of attempts she noticed a smell of petrol and got out. We then had a look and could see petrol leaking from underneath the engine bay and pooling inside the car. On the RAC attending they identified fuel leaking from injector 1. (They were taken by surprise when opening the drivers door caused petrol to squirt out - looks like opening the door primes the fuel circuit?) It's since gone to our local garage to investigate. I'd seen some reports on here of sheared bolts on the rail holding the injectors in place and subsequent leaking - which sounded similar. On investigation, the garage have confirmed the same thing - loose and missing / sheared bolts - at least one of which they are having to drill out - and the seal on injectors 1 and 2 gone as a result. This sounds very much like the issues I've seen mentioned in relation to 1.2 and 1.4 petrol engines. Has anyone had any luck with a response or any recompense from Skoda? These don't appear to be isolated incidents and i dread to think what could have happened with my kids in the car in different circumstances. I'll provide more details when I get them / pictures and I've asked the garage to retain the removed parts.

VCDS will be the best but expensive and rightly so If you’re only ever going to do basics then something like obdeleven but you can get a pro version which has more options like VCDS. I think obdelven for basic version isn’t too badly priced either but not looked in a while Also obdeleven is quite crap because it’s not a lifetime license from what I remember so over the years costs more than VCDS

Quite so. Many dealers will go out of business in the next few months or year or two. EVs can work with a different model as we see with Tesla. Buyers collecting from the docks and the occasional light service is not going to keep many dealers/garages in business. I take the big view, just happy to see cheap EVs available to people who may have thought even just a few months ago they were unaffordable. If it increases the miles driven in EVs compared to polluting ICE cars then a good thing. I patriotically wanted to get a 60 kWh LEAF but none were available to buy on to put on order, I suspect Nissan are losing money on each one, less so on the 40 kWh one. Youtuber Electric Viking reckons that Nissan will be the first of all the Japanese manufacturers which will go bust, be bad news for Nissan Sunderland. We need several battery plants in the UK if we are to have a decent level of car production with cars at reasonable cost, there will be 30 battery plants in the EU. Plans are suppose to be just on the edge of signing, costing UK tax payer half a billion in subsidize for a battery plant in Somerset, not sure where those batteries will go. Vauxhall plants at Ellesmere Port at Luton look to be on dodgy ground in the Trade Cooperation Agreement the UK has with the EU cannot be modified. The new much cheaper battery tech, Lithium Iron Phosphate and the Sodium and other cheap base material will mean the cost of the battery pack will be thousands cheaper. Future bright and tech improving a many percent each year and with prices dropping despite the recent high inflation on many other commodities.

The balance of probability didn't include the fuse for some reason. Still all's well that ends well.

You need to just send it on the m56 that should sort most issues out

Yeah, they do.

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/fuses/halfords-assorted-oto-strip-fuses-30>60-amp-fuse133-705310.html

Do cigarette packets no longer have the silver foil fuse repair liner these days? 🤣

I'll ring the skoda garage in the morning to see if they can fix it, I appreciate your help on this

I'm in a similar position as I've retired sine buying my diesel. During the winter, especially if we have a spell of bad weather and I don't go far, I have to drive up and down the Brecon Bypass to clear the DPF. It's OK at the moment as I'm in Lithuania and the long drive doesn't give any active regeneration problems. When I started out from home, the car was showing AdBlue range was 5,500 miles and after covering over 1,600 miles, the range has only dropped to 5,000 miles, so I assume the DPF runs cleaner when the car is covering long distances at full temperature.

You can still go into coasting by putting the DSG into N.

Have just tried that 50-70 test in my mapped superb. 4th gear, 3 secs 😱 torque is king. Lol

Pretty likely that new plugs will sort the problem - agree on considering replacing cam belt.

Yes, good point, before Oct 2005 actually. From Nov 2005 it went to position 5. I put some slightly duff info in the fuse FAQ at one point, must clarify and correct it, or get a mod to. The one with a really thick red/black wire going to it, and 50A rating.

The engine produces the same amount of power in all modes. There is no difference. 100% throttle is 100% throttle.

Thanks for the heads up, toot. I know there seems to be some debate about the cam belt change, I had 100k miles in my mind. What the heck, I will get it sorted. I’m 76 now so I don’t think I will be around when it’s next due. 😃

My last Superb (190 L&K) was a diesel. Before covid it was fine, and I was doing a lot of miles. During and post-covid, probably no more than 15 miles a day, and I was having to take it for motorway spins to clear the DPF. You could tell when it was due - it smelt like it was burning when the car tried to do "active regeneration" (usually not enough). Changed to a petrol L&K last year.

Thank you toot and nta16 for a speedy reply. The car is actually booked in for a service on June 5th, it is getting new plugs, engine air filter, engine filter and oil so I feeling hopeful from what you both said. I looked at the Briskoda VCDS Owners Map and there are 2 person within 14 minutes drive, one to the left and one to the right. I bought the car just 5 months ago and I am sure the problem wasn’t present then so I am hoping the service sorts.

Well Renault Austral was in some ways impressive and other ways bland. Will work at 70 mph (actually up to 130 kph Renault HQ guy mentioned) in EV mode, looks like it can go over 60 mpg and he said range can be seen to be over 700 miles. Acceleration pretty good, just about 8s to 60 with the turbo and ETECH working in combo, starts at £34.6K, made in Spain not South Korea like my Arkana was. As purely a value proposition, compared to the Megane-E electric car I would probably go for the Austral but then waiting for the new Rafale seems an even better idea as it will have all the Austral tech but in a better looking Sports Coupe body and hopefully not be over £40k for the base model. I see too many Model Ys, especially in white, even though my Arkana is a Pearl While but only cost me £25K, and I have a big worry about VW cars with huge debt it has and even more it is borrowing to go down the EV roll fully at prices that mean they will sell enough carsa to survive. Mazda, Nissan and Toyota could all be toast as they are so slow to the EV and PHEV market across a decent rage of models, Stelantis too, maybe Renault/Dacia will be the European HQ car maker to survive the Chinese and TESLA value onslaught ?

A VW suitable scan tool could look for any error codes and look at live data to help with diagnosis. If you don't have access to one you could possibly find someone on the following list that might be able to help you. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) This is not to neglect the basics toot has pointed out.

Here was my previous used ECU. The ECU is not a ''plug and play'' item, the programmer must make too many adjustments after fitting (among them is the immobilizer) fuel ratio etc plus a test on Dyno-road. Yes the programmer can do it but this will turn the car back to previous decades which anyone could start the engine easily. It's a Safety feature.

They have said they will do a health check before it's put onto the Dyno as won't touch a car that has an issues. Spark plugs are OEM as Skoda were servicing it up until now and were replaced last summer. Air filter will replace this afternoon as 30 second job. Oil is 4k miles old. Ideally I would fully service it before going in Tuesday but away at wedding this weekend. Asked to fill it with Tesco Momentum 99 which is what I use anyway. Just realised I missed your reply last night, wasn't ignoring you!

You have your speed limiter on turn it off. look at your video bottom right it goes to 50 so car will not go above that speed as it loses gps so reverts to 50

DH Automotive/Performance. Was recommended to them and handy as right near the house. Was more curious if Stage 1 usually causes issues with coil packs.

@Neillvrs what are all these parts. Just a mechatronic control unit. Or a new / VW refurbished DSG. Or are you getting an engine and a gearbox as some person suggested was needed using their total lack of motor engineering qualifications?

Well, Skoda customer service E mailed me while i was away last week to say I have a confirmed build date of week commencing 28/05/23. I’ll take it with a large pinch of salt, but let’s see what happens. Any ideas how long it takes to build an Octavia VRS iV Estate anyone? I know it’s Skoda so it could be anywhere from 3 months to never, but any guesses?!

Given all the uncertainty I think I'd best just put the whole car changing idea on hold until things become a little clearer. Naively I thought there'd be a well organised plan for shifting from the mk3 to the mk4 but if there is it seems to be a well kept secret and it could be months before there's certainty. I fear prices will rise but my 280 sportline with only 12000 on the clock seems to be doing OK trade in wise and my pcp is slowly building up some equity. Must try to be more patient!

Thanks Breezy that's lucky I bought the 276mm ones but I wasn't sure as there seems to be 288mm that might have been correct as well

Going away in a few weeks all going well, same as last year. Since I won't have the power I want, I want to do everything to minimise power loss. My biggest problem last year in the summer heat, was heat soak. I've since put a front mount on, but I figured I could do more in the form of an intercooler sprayer. I could buy a kit ofcourse, but that costs money and there's no way really to mount it stealthily. So then I thought about plumbing into the washer bottle, but I couldn't figure out a good way of splitting the feed on the fly to the intercooler. So, I had a look and noticed the mk1 has the bottle on the passengers side. Whereas the mk2 has it on the drivers side. After a bit of looking. I noticed the top bolt is in the same spot, and there's a hole near the power steering reservoir on the mk2 where the bottle also mounts to. Good enough. Hoped to just remove the splash panel and snake it up through there, which proved optimistic. Had to loosen the bumper off and pop the headlight out to get the best access. And with a bit of fettling, it fits. Looks standard, if a bit odd. It's a pretty tight fit, but the splash panel and fog do go back in properly. This is only a 2l bottle, I seriously doubt a 5l fits. Even used the nozzles from a mk1, fit pretty well, tied on top of the bumper spraying down. Wired it with a relay, fused of course. Then used one of those fuse taps inside on the fuse for the wipers (switched ignition), and put a push switch through that to turn it on and off. It's taped into place for now near the radio, until I can find a good spot for it. Works well for a parts bin bodge job. Think I'll add some isopropyl alcohol to it, which is meant to cool things even more. I'll need to add some sort of return valve to the washer hosing as it drips down if the bottles too full. But happy thus far. 20230523_214406.mp4

There are following options: - Original, which is also Monroe and they are twice cheaper than Original. - Nagengast regenerating of shock absorbers. - Bilstein B4 Damptronic which costs as original or B6 Damptronic which are out of stock. - Borsehung with 5 years guarantee and Maxgear. For those last two I never heard. - There is also some Aerosus, but I read they are some Chinesse stuff. - And KW of course, but those are really expensive. So, plenty of options

A further update from Skoda Head Office. Apparently all back orders from 2021 will not receive a build date until July at the earliest. After that they are unable to confirm how long the build process will take or when delivery will take place. The advice given going forward, speak to your dealer after July for an update. If this is the information coming from the executive team at Skoda we have no hope!

Thanks for all the posts, news is good and all costs are going to be covered but will have a fairly long wait for the replacement by the sound of it

Bluetooth should not matter when using cable. It can be on or off, no difference. The cable however does matter. Try using different cables to see if that helps. If you're trying to connect wirelessly, Bluetooth is needed to initiate the connection, then the communication gets switched to WiFi. Try restarting your phone first. Pair up your phone with your car again, make sure you have Bluetooth and WiFi turned on. When it's done, go to Settings > Bluetooth > "Your car's BT name" and enable CarPlay.

I can send you a few different firmwares, but will start with closest number to your existing. You will need to be able to burn a CD from an ISO image file, and have battery support for 1hr of programming time. If this loads, you should be able to swap language afterwards (manually) And then test maps.

I had this problem with it falling open, but I cured it by taking the Owners Manual out and putting it in the drawer under passenger seat. It doesn't like a lot of weight.

Assuming cars with SatNag have CarPlay, forget inbuilt systems and just use Google Maps. I’ve used it all around the planet and it’s generally spot on and a lot less hassle. 👍

Yes updates soon cheers for reading

Problems solved so far.

Oh the irony. The "older system" that works. Why is it that so many advances in tech make things harder? I don't wish for the return of the cd player or the cassette - but an SD slot can store hundreds of albums and works, why change it?