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I would suggest you let your ‘idiot nephew’ take the bus in future - he’ll have plenty of time to watch fellow idiots on Tik-tok then

Assuming it's not completely broken.... It's a push in and slight turn to the right, it'll then lock and pull out. Much like this around the 20s mark:

For Audi TT (don’t know specifically about Skoda platforms) there is no known option to change the default unfortunately. There is an adaptation which sets the battery voltage below which start stop no longer works. You can change this to effectively permanently disable it. In the end I got a module from AliExpress, which is far more functional. Do a search for “Automatic Stop Start Engine System Off Device Control Sensor Plug for SKODA”. It has 3 modes… Memory mode - the last set mode is remembered at next ignition on Shutdown mode - start/stop is disabled at ignition on (press button to enable) Service mode - normal operation (enabled at ignition on) Highly recommended. It just plugs in between the start/stop switch and the car wiring harness. No coding or adaptations required. Edit: And yes, you’re hijacking the thread. 🤨

I mean when you go to a docking point to charge your car that has built in cables, what do you use… non genuine cables. the whole point of types for the cables is an international standard so they can all be interchanged without fear of breaking anything

Not much chance of any kind of sunset this evening☔, but pretty decent last night👍

Well, the job has overrun and I won’t get my car back until tomorrow. It seems as though it is being a pain of a job to do. I’ll see what I can get out of them when I pick it up, but I’m not that mechanically minded, albeit trying to take more interest. I’ll let you know what I find out tomorrow afternoon.

Changed the bootlid to a Black Monte Carlo one so I gained factory tint and the little spoiler, de stickered it as it didn’t really go with rest of car. Swapped the gloss black badge over just going to try and rescue the vrs badge and take wiper off too at some point

Use said nephew's money!

New light switch. Unfortunately you cannot get a new nephew.

and of course, being the mighty Clarkson he didn't stop at all for a pee, a drink, food, stretch legs or just a rest. Obviously he then turned around immediately on getting to Edinburgh to drive back again without doing something there (work, dinner, sleep?).

An update, I spoke to the Skoda dealer about the hard ride and they have offered to replace the Monroe HD shocks with genuine Skoda shocks completely free of charge. That is what I call outstanding customer service.

@Joncs23yes @Ievgeniii need to download it from the server for you @bluemoon2020sent me pm

That's like blaming a non stock tyre. A joke if you ask me. I had to get a new cable soon after getting my car and never had an issue. Type 2 is a standard and, assuming it's genuinely certified, should work as designed.

Maybe is this style better but also with red border inside and outside of the ring. What do you rhink?

Sounds like another non OE part being given the blame when, in fact, they don’t have a danny what’s wrong.

Make sure you only use Skoda or VAG electricity!

Badges gone!

Stop somewhere safe, leave the engine running at the high tickover, switch off the air conditioning, get out (or open window) and listen/look to see if the cooling fans are running, if they are then its likely to be regenning and you will probably smell it. It should not be regenning that often so the next step would be to have diagnostics done to check the DPF load and the DPF pressure differential sensor. Its 35°c here most days at present and I have noticed my car ticking over several times at 1k rpm at traffic lights but it has not been regenerating, I think possibly me having the AC on max may mean it needs a higher tickover on these hot days, that said the revs did not drop when I switched it off but perhaps it was going through a shut down cycle first. It could be something else for you to try if your weather is as hot and you are maxing out the aircon.

prefer this one would rather lose the VRS badges though, just my opinion

Whilst the 1.0 115 bhp may be “nippy” (you gotta love a dodgy backstreet car dealer term😂) the 1.5 148 bhp DSG is bordering on pretty fast in comparison, so my recommendation would be the 1.5 DSG. Furthermore, the mpg difference is pretty negligible for the increase in performance. Plus, you don’t have that horrible lawnmower engine sounding thrum of the 3 cylinder🙄. And yes, I’ve driven the 115bhp before anyone asks🙄 DISCLAIMER - these are only my opinions folks, no offence meant🤣

hello Indy, should be doable through coding on VCDS - although might not always dip to exact position unless you also have electrically operated memory seats.

I think it may be push in then twist to remove it. Seem to recall doing that on my Octavia. You don't say how old your nephew is but my grandson is 17 and he's gone from a bright young lad to a halfwit in no time at all 🤣

Weirdly this time round, when topping up, there's a 'Burping' (as you put it) happening!! Lots and Lots of Bubbling. Where as last year it just topped up and that was that! So maybe it is an air lock! Fingers Crossed!!

one of POIs in my 4313 km trip around Czech Republic 10Mb limit reached and BS forum's engine doesn't accept links from Google Drive 😞 like https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qC6SnfW4DCWFiwdvi5K_N7eSACqjBPj6/view

Thanks for sharing these photos, its clearly obvious that the Superb was always the flagship of the range even from 1936 and the 1940 model shows its importance and position within the marque, it was always intended to be a limousine and hence its current day huge rear legroom, which was what drew me to switch from Passat's to Superbs and now I'm on my 5th model and I have not regretted it once. 😊

Presumably they have the wheels off to bleed the brakes after the fluid change anyway??

This is the new government legislation on charging. If it goes through, things are set to improve. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukdsi/2023/9780348249873

No. The front calipers are not reversed. Bleeding nipple is on the top

If you include the 25 minute food break in the Ceed test, the next 9 cars in the list are faster. After all, humans need re-fuelling too and in an EV that happens simultaneously with fuelling the car. I'm not saying an EV is faster to 1000km but I'm also pointing out an ICE car is not faster either. I'm saying EVs have got to the point where for a long drive they are just as quick as a fossil car and all other trips they are just as quick / slow. The limit on ICE long distance travel has long been biological rather range and that is now the case with EVs too.

Then it's a server fault. From what I've been told the files are from November. You may want to try using the VW navigation site.

@Umrelllaski now you have Bolero MIB1. Pls share your VIN via PM so I can check configuration details. Basically I do NOT recommend Android based units, especially if you want to drive this car for next couple of years. For OEM solution you can install one of four different glove box units: - MIB2 Bolero - MIB2 Amundsen - MIB2 Columbus - MIB2.5 Columbus You also need to replace display unit: - for MIB2 Bolero you can use either 6.5" model number 5E0919605H or 8" model number 5E0919605N - for MIB2 Amundsen and MIB2 Columbus you can use listed above display as well as 6.5" model number 5E0919605J, 8" model number 5E0919606, 8" model number 5E0919605M - for MIB2.5 Columbus the only display unit that works is 5E0919606D The questiona are what is ypour location, what is your budget and which of listed below features are "must have": 1. Video playback from DVD, USB, SD 2. CD playback 3. OEM navigation 4. displaying OEM maps na Virtual Cluster (Active Info Display). MIB2 Bolero - no OEM navigation, no CD/DVD drive, no video playback from SD/USB MIB2 Amundsen - OEM navigation, no CD/DVD drive, no video playback from SD/USB, support for displaying OEM maps in Active Info Display (Virtual Cluster) MIB2 Columbus - OEM navigation, CD/DVD drive, video playback from SD/USB, no support for displaying OEM maps in Active Info Display (Virtual Cluster) MIB2.5 Columbus - OEM navigation, CD/DVD drive, video playback from SD/USB, support for displaying OEM maps in Active Info Display (Virtual Cluster)

Me. Skipping through it while sitting charging an EV. 30 pack of crisps in boot and 24 pack of diet coke & ticktacs & pan drops in the car & they last a few weeks, or a a few thousand miles, £2,20, £7.50, £2. and i very seldom buying any food at charging stations (because there are no shops at cheap charging other than maybe supermarkets or if near a high street / town centre in Scotland, or vending machines at a park and ride in ticket offices / toilets happen to be open, which is rare late night, during the night, and much of the time.) and it is a case of going to hide behind a tree and many charger locations to get a pee. 600 miles when you can get 100 miles or more from a charge might mean 5 charges if you start off with a full charge, then a 6th to charge up again. Average 50 mph, and 5 charges of 60 minutes or less. 17 hours. Maybe @ 35 pence a kwh & 3.5 miles a kWh £60. 600 miles @ 42 mpg average & 142 pence a litre cost me £92. 65 litres / 14.3 gallons approx. It is nice to get a move on in an ICE vehicle and just fill up, but i miss the time sitting charging and the banter, and the 5 hours or less charging can mean i have £30 still in my pocket. More if i drive a more efficient ICE or drive more efficiently, but then if i drive a more efficient EV that can cost less. It has cost me less because i did lots of charging free and at less than 35 pence kWh. (those days have gone.) 50 pence - 80 pence per kWh makes the EV driving damn expensive though and does not actually mean you get a faster charge time / more powerful chargers.

Take it further asap. Also, why did it supposedly need calibration?

So I had my car updated on the 5th of July. Immediately after update I had an OTA for user manual which went through okay and updated successfully. Only had an issue on the day of the update when infotainment started up with black screen twice and had to do a manual reboot. I do contribute this to car not having a deep sleep cylce (to purge the system) for now as all systems work flawlessly since then.

The do sell spare valve stems as that is where my work get them from. It will be their own part numbers, not OE though. Glad you have it sorted though. Thanks. AG Falco

Pinkish tinge this evening

Do you have to take it out? Couldn’t you just run it down, say 1/4 tank at a time and gradually enrich the fuel in the tank? Even if that means using the highest octane fuel you can get. It’s not like you put diesel in.

So far as I understand it, an active regen will increase tickover. Could the hum be the fans staying on? I'm of course only making suggestions. If it doesn't seem right, have it checked out by a mechanic/garage. Gaz

Well, turns out this was quite an easy fix. I'm kicking myself for not checking previously. The ruddy DAB black fakra cable was unplugged at the back of the MIB unit. Plugged it in and all is well.

I'm currently crafting myself a little sim rig that I can put in front of my 65-inch TV and store in a corner of my bedroom if not needed. There's already gaming PC hooked on the telly. Some years ago I built myself a gaming seat that I can put in front of the telly for playing more competitive stuff (shooters) via mouse and keyboard. That seat is mounted on a wooden console with rubber feets so it stands solid but can be move around on front wheels if you lift the rear end. I already owned a cheap thrustmaster T150 set (I barely used) but decided to give simracing another shot with a fanatec DD some weeks ago. That one was (or still is) currently on sale btw. As for the pedal set I'm using a modded thrustmaster T-LCM set with loadcell brake wich is pretty nice. The stuff mounted on a wheelstand pro. I had to make a little improvement with the wheelstand since the entire assy moved away from the seat during playing - thanks to the loadcell brake that requires a lot of force. I added some sort of hooks on the seat console that connects to the wheelstand, now everything stays in place^^ As a gadget I added a little 5" Dashboard with LEDs on the wheelbase from a very nice polish dude who sold it on Etsy for a fair price. Due to the neat weather I don't play a lot these days but this kind of stuff usually gets more expensive during autumn/winter.

Driving away at it happily for a while, just ticked over 38k and it **** the bed. Lucky was heading to the farm, a few hundred metres out had to pull into a ditch for some *******s in an i30. Go to pull out and the throttles really dead, choking the engine. It was driving absolutely perfect up until then. Magically got it to go enough to get to the farm gates, once it gets over 4k (when the second barrel opens) it was fine. Sitting idling at the farm and it was slowly choking itself out till it died. Restarted it and again, any throttle it'd die, and it'd slowly die idling. Held it on the choke up to the shed and there it sat. Took apart the carb and found the accelerator pump had a tear in the boot. So tried to warranty the keyster kit I got and amazingly, they've sent out another kit. Ordered another kit from the first crowd hoping it'd get here quicker, inspite of it being ordered first, and "only" coming from Germany. It was delivered at the same time as the keyster kit from Canada. Nice. Anyway, put the new pump on, cleaned it up a bit and. (Note I used the kit from Germany not the keyster one) Still did it, albeit it wasn't instantly dying. So took it apart again. Cleaned it out again. And. I mean I'll take it. Bit of a flat-bottomed around 3k but it cleared out. Maybe there was some of the solvent left in it from when I was cleaning it and that was choking it, maybe there was **** in it still somehow. Don't know, not too worried since it's running again. So now I have a kit spare. Not too mad all things considered since it's having issues now and not in a month's time at retrorides. And the fact it didn't do it when it was being tested, because God knows when I would have got another date. It's not home yet, gonna give it some driving tomorrow evening and if its fine I'll take it home.

Yes the update file can be sent to you

Pretty nippy. Certainly not going to hold anyone up that is behind you and able to keep up with UK traffic and NSL.s. & a Kamiq or Scala is a different size / class of car from an 'Octavia, Superb, Mondeo, or Passat which is why they might not be used as Taxi / Private hire cars, (There are some Scala Taxi / Ubers about.) & a Kamiq is a size down from a Karoq.

The 20" are on it now.

Dellbert, you messaged me asking how I was getting on, for benefit of anyone else… Not sorted yet. Options 1. Get existing diff out, send to rebuild people (who will take three weeks approx) to fix (if they can about £380, £1500 if they can't, and need to cannibalise another diff) …plus removing/fitting costs 2. Get diff out and have 'new' unit fitted (currently trying to confirm unit on eBay from China is legit.) £1200 for unit (plus duty/vat??) and plus removing/fitting costs 3. Get diff out and have 'breakers yard' unit fitted (£400-750 but can I be sure it's from the mileage/car they say – what guarantee?) – plus removing/fitting costs. 4. New unit from Skoda dealer £5,084 – plus removing/fitting costs :O) 5. Keep driving it until it breaks, then one of the above 6. Just sit and cry I'm thinking 2 as that way I can have the car for August (garages are massively booked) …and refurb loses August driving! I have garage booked for July 25th (!) to get diff out (and looking to sort it so 'new' diff can go straight in) – time enough to source a 'new' diff I can trust/afford. I've been told (and this is my non-tech recollection) that exhaust has to come off and rear sub-frame dropped as the diff bolts in from the top! It seems they do put cars together with little thought for later access! Guess you could cut in from above – joke!!

I've just done the thermostat module and water pump on my EA888 Gen 3 golf R. And if it makes you feel any better, I reckon £1k is pretty fair. It used to be independents were about £800 and dealers £1000 to £1200, but recent part cost hikes and labour creeping up, that sounds about right and independents are probably where dealers were 2 years ago.. A 75k mile, 6.5 years old car, I did the job myself, used INA thermostat module, they are the OEM, plus gaskets, union, throttle body gasket, even after market that is around £400 plus parts. I spent about 2 days on it! it's rated as a 5 or 6 hour job for a professional workshop. But not on the drive. It's not super easy job without lifts to get under car. I couldn't walk that well for a week! Nothing is inherently super complicated but access is tight everywhere and anywhere and getting underneath and back up from under the car, on the drive, is really wearing. Without the intake manifold removed you have limited view for repositioning everything as well, especially the module positioning lugs and the oil cooler union that has to be lined up and kept in position while bolting the module up to the block!!

Hi, I had a problem with the OEM armrest insert as my cup would not fit there- evidently simply not-so-clever option in my Kodiaq. As I feel very much attached to my Contigo cup- figured I'll find a solution to that. This is my cupholder solution- 2 pieces of 3 mm plywood traced on the oem insert, cut with dremel, wrapped in self adhesive felt. some screws & washers & nuts to join and adjust the height - and the cup fits now perfect, even fitting under the armrest :) It is removable, fits like the oem insert - if I would maybe take more care on finishing the bottom side, it would be reversible as the OEM one. attached also 1 photo of the prototype to show how the nuts & bolts work. (i also gave the bottom rubber which is removable - a coat of this felt, as it seems nicer now :) )

I know ithis is an ancient thread but "YES" from me on that one. If I take a road hump a little too fast then on the exit phase of the hump the front suspension crashes down and sounds like its broken or one of the bushes is knackered. I took it it to the stealership to check and they said there was nothing wrong. Another one of those slightly red faced moments (of embarrasment rather than anger) 🙂 I run my 215/50 R18's (on my 2wd) at 35PSI as this seems to be inbetween the "unloaded" pressure recommendation and the "Eco" or heavily loaded recommendation in the flap. I did notice a few weeks ago when it was serviced that the service team did reduce the pressure on all 4 corners (I think if I recall correctly) to 31PSI. Maybe they were trying to give me a hint 🙂 Being the tight wad I am - I popped them back to 35PSI to get those all important extra 4mpg but I do suffer from a bit of lively wheelspin in the damp with the DSG box and the lighter 1.5TSi engine. Maybe 31PSI is the best bet afterall ?? Paul

My VRS in quartz grey.