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I’ve said for a long time that the 5 year thing has always been a uk rip off on these tsi engines. I can understand anyone being worried and getting the belt changed, but the every 5 years age thing doesn’t make sense and was never in the official service manuals but dealers and many specialists have quoted it for years. Thank goodness they are officially saying it isn’t needed.

Ours is 7 years old and still on the original too. Given the four 1.8 miles journeys a day it does during term time (I drive a school bus) it gets a pounding, what with the AC on 365, the heated seat, screen often both on in the Autumn and Winter when needed together with full lights always on during that time of year, I think it’s done pretty well. I do shove it on the CTEK charger daily overnight in the winter though so that could be helping.

Biggie lighter plug, is that switchable ? In case you didn't know, they are always on. Not sure what you are plugging in but don't want to flatten the battery...

Yes, I have to admit i did my fare share of stupid things when I was a kiddo. I would say that the meme below sums it up nicely

Hi , just thought id draw attention to this, i removed my front mudflap and wing liner to try and get access to the back of a dent i thought i might be able to push out from behind. Anyhow thats by the by, however i found a big pile of wet muddy crap which had built up against the bottom of the metal wing , which wont help with future rusting . If anyone keeps their cars a long time like me , you might want to check yours out. 5 mins . Easy just remove the 2 or 3 torx screws holding the mudflap and peel back the liner , you will be able to remove it all then.

@zom414 you have download link on PM

I don't drive for a living but it is my work car. Think of me being a bit like a service engineer who gets sent to a different customer every day, with potentially a few hundred miles between each customer, so I might be in Cornwall one day, followed by Hampshire the next day, then Essex, up to Cambridgeshire, back to Wiltshire etc and you'll get the idea. Sometimes the customers can be quite close together but it varies wildly depending on customer requirements. Usually I spend several hours on site with my driving being early morning and late afternoon to early evening. If I'm in the car at 6:00am you only have to average 40mph so by 9:00am you've done 120 miles, then back in the car by 3:00pm and drive for 3-4 hours at an average of 40mph and you've done another 120-160 miles. Do that for a week and you've got 1200+ miles, so over a month it quickly adds up. I think one month earlier this year I did 2500 miles, the following month 4800 miles, every month is different, and if I'm working abroad the car sits in an airport car park for a week or two. The UK really isn't that big when you get used to driving around it on a regular basis, the key is to avoid the morning and afternoon rush hours, and at this time of year try to stay away from holiday hot spots such as the M5 south of Bristol.

Also, maybe a little over budget, but have you looked at the e-Up/Mii electric/Citigo-e? The prices of 3 year old cars are just over budget, genuine 120 winter range and 160 in summer, CCS charging which is more common than the Leaf Chademo and recharges relatively quickly on AC thanks to 36kWh battery and 7kW charging. Might be worth taking a look.

Can you share where it says 50k? Certainly seems too soon and not one I've heard before.

That's not the timing belt in the photo. A timing belt is toothed or if you prefer castellated , no way in the world would it slip . Very important for a timing belt. Your photo is the multi V belt to drive alternator ( top right hand corner) and Air con compressor (Below it). The smallest pulley is the tensioner . The timing belt is hidden underneath a cover. PS I dont know if the 1.2 TSI has a belt or a chain.

Ouch! That takes me back 😒

We have done a LOT of full rebuilds on these PQ35/46 rear ends and to reduce downtime we often buy in a used system to rebuild. Cars with the ally hubs rather than cast iron are more stressful as the bolts rot solid in the ally and are a sketch to get apart. We have the frame powder coated and order in a big pile of Febi, Meyele, genuine and Sachs/Boge bits, build the unit up and fit it in a day. Induction heating a seized bolt in an ally hub

Yes the update file can be sent to you

Our 2013 3T Superb Elegance Combi came with the RNS-510 (Columbus) and the amplifier under the passenger seat. I added a Tiguan handle reversing camera about 6 months into ownership. The RNS-510 is really showing it's age so it seemed like time for an update. I gambled on the Eonon Q53Pro as it claimed to 'Work with Fender Audio' which in some markets is what Volkswagen calls the amplifier package. Turns out, yes it does, with no config needed. The unit works well: - Android Auto and Carplay work fine, flawlessly in wireless mode. The Android Auto seems to be a bit flakey in the wired mode but Carplay was fine in wired mode. - Worked with the amp, no special wiring or adapters other than what was supplied needed - Came with a dual-fakra socket to handle the dual radio antennas (some reviews mentioned that it needed a diversity adapter as it had only one antenna socket, my unit came with the adapter) - It has configurable sleep. I set it to 1-day, so as long as the car is driven within 24 hours start-up is instant. Otherwise startup takes around 30 seconds - The reversing camera, I got the A0580 converter and it just works. The old camera looks low-def on the large screen of this unit when it looked fine on the (comparatively) tiny screen of the RNS-510. I might install the supplied Analogue High Def camera as that should have a better picture and in theory will be able to show maneuvering lines. - Steering wheel controls work fine. The volume can be a bit laggy some times but it does work. Skip forward and back are fine. - Ultrasonic sensors work fine and have the car-info on screen, both front and rear - Bright/dark etc works automatically with headlights. Unfortunately this unit only has red-button illumination. I understand the newer unit has configurable button color - The mic that came with it for hands-free is ok but not great. I'll probably make a near-field cancellation circuit and replace with that. - Sound quality is fine and super-configurable. The tired 10 speakers in that car sound way better than they did on the RNS-510. An oddity is that there is no working front-rear fader. Fading to the rear results in no sound at all. It's not a deal-breaker for me. Yes, rear speakers are working. Bonus is there is a sub-out which I might make use of as I have a Blaupunkt active sub from two cars ago sitting in the garage. It came with a GPS patch antenna, but I got a Fakra to SMA adapter so I could use the inbuilt roof antenna. It works 100% I used VCDS to code out the old nav unit and bluetooth unit. This wasn't needed for correct operation, it was just flagging fault codes in the logs. Downsides (but none are deal breakers for me): - You can't turn it on without ignition being on. Once ign on, it will stay on until drivers door is opened. - Interface is wildly inconsistent both with styling between functions and some odd translations - Charging from the car-play USB port is very slow. I don't use it now, I use a proper QC capable charger and let Android Auto/Carplay be wireless - No 4g modem in this one. The newer unit does have this. - No SD card slot, although it has a spare USB port and you could plug mass-storage into this if you wanted. - Bluetooth data sharing: It seems to be capable of using the data from my phone via bluetooth, but it stops when the Android Auto connects and then to get it working again needs to be toggled and reconnected. - Fuel remaining is mistranslated as "Remained Oil". This is technically correct I guess as Diesel is fuel-oil - It does support pop-up of HVAC settings, but it randomly pops up when no adjustment has been made. I turned it off as the HVAC panel shows everything you need to know anyway - It supports a pop-up for door-open status, but it shows a generic drivers door open picture regardless of door and covers up the interface so you can't do anything else. I turned it off - The row of capacitive buttons below the screen are super-sensitive and easy to mis-press if you're trying to hit an on-screen button near the bottom of the screen. - I've not figured out how to set the AM radio to 9kHz channel spacings yet. Have emailed support to ask. - The old AUX port and the weird iPod connector thingy in the centre storage obviously doesn't work any more as it's not connected to anything. I don't think I ever used this anyway. Oddly, my iPod classic 160GB was still in there, plugged in and still worked. I forgot about it probably 5 years ago. - The volume control is a bit coarse. This may be an artifact of having the under seat amp, but the jumps between levels are significant. Some pics of the unit installed. It does poke out a bit around the edges but not obnoxiously so. So the point of this post is, if you're sick of your RNS-510 but like me were worried about the under seat amp, don't be. This unit was around $500 Australian Dollarydoos including the GPS antenna adapter and the camera adapter.

I'm new to the Skoda world, and was unaware that this could have been an expensive problem that I may have bought myself into a month ago. It's a relief that I probably won't need to splash out a grand or so this year on a cambelt change. I would imagine this Karoq forum is maybe 5 years old, about the same as my 18 plate - in the history of this forum, has anybody posted first-hand that they have had a cambelt fail and consequently suffered the massive bill it entailed?

Yes.

2019 is a Mk3 Fabia. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/298-skoda-fabia-mk-iii/

Hello Lee, can you confirm what ICE you have fitted - is it Amundsen, Columbus, or something else?

Hello Lee, welcome to the forum. 32Gb (rather than 64) should be enough space for all Europe maps. I seem to recall from somewhere that 32 is max SD accepted on MIB2 - although your version might actually be MIB2.5 if you have facelift model. I understand that non Skoda SD card can be used if formatted correctly - will have a search and come back to you.

I remember one going "click" and dropping onto the car mats glowing yellow red and the car swerving as driver and passenger both reached down to try and pick it up without getting burnt! I gained several grey hairs during that incident.

£4400, that is a bargain. Will be interested to see the current range after any degradation but generally Renault batteries do not lose much especially if only AC charged, I would expect 5 to 10% so hopefully not far off 100 miles summer range and 70 miles winter range, note sure if these had heat pumps.

1941 update a few days ago, no reboot anymore.

Feeling better about grubbing around under the back of my car a couple of weeks ago Kurusting anything on the rear subframe that looked a bit rusty.

Hello! If you're in doubt, can I suggest you re-frame the issue. So now the car has 90K miles. How many miles do you intend to put on the car? How long do you intend to keep it? If you do a low annual mileage, and intend to run the car into the ground, then I see no reason for the mileage to discourage you. If you do a lot of annual miles and intend to sell the car in a few years, maybe that high mileage will either cause some serious depreciation or make the car difficult to sell. (You're already hesitant about it at 90K miles.) Cars wear out, and cars get old. Personally, I prefer a young, high-mileage car to an old, low-mileage car, but I keep my cars for many years and don't do many miles. Plan ahead and make your decision based on what your ownership use is likely to be. EDIT: No idea what Car Giant is like as a vendor, but as a rule, expect pretty much next to no support after you've parted with your cash. Good luck!

Hi, I was brave and did the update this am. All went through with no problems. Took about 15 mins. It was good to have watched the video to know what to expect. Afterwards it said it needed another update and that seemed to be taking longer weirdly. Will give it a test later and hopefully no more issues. Many many thanks for those on here who have helped.

I went into my Skoda Dealer a week or so ago and asked the same question. I have a 2016 model Mk3 Superb, diesel, 2 litre DSG. The guy said that only that morning they had received notification from Skoda saying that they have changed the intervals on timing belt replacements to 140,000 miles. I can't recall the time intervals as I do a high mileage and the miles will come around before the date. I last had them change my cambelt & water pump at 110,000 miles and will do again when I reach around 220,000 miles.

Hello Nicky, welcome to the forum. Hmmm, a little less than 25K a year - so probably not an ex taxi, possibly a travelling salesman? Given that most of these miles will have been run with engine fully up to temperature, not such a bad thing, is a full service history available? Does it look like it's been taken care of?

Well, I’m guessing the clue that something is missing, is the huge hole in the tank where the upper pump should be?

You can put the stands at the end of the beam tube or under the shock thick plate whatever is easier for you, I bought 2 axle stand pads that fit where the jacking ponts are so you have plenty of room under the car to work , you can jack the car up under the end of the beam or under the damper plate to get the stand in, my old MK2 had rear drums and i found Bosch brake shoes a lot cheaper than the genuine Skoda ones but some times if you searh around you can purchase a kit from some online dealers that gives you the shoes cylindrs ans springs in a set,I found it a lot easier to take the rear hub off to do the brakes but you can manage to do it with the hub on bu it's a bit of a fiddle, be careful when removing the hub as the ABS sensor is right behind the hub and if you damage this no ABS some people loosen the abs sensor and just pull itback a bit to make sure but you don't have too just go careful

It sounds like the smaller bearing has gone and as you have driven 47K miles since the Haldex was serviced it wont be due to them mixing up the drain holes, it also means that its not going to go bang and will just get progressively louder. I cant see that you have any claim against Skoda for a noisy bearing on a 6.5 years old vehicle with 120000 miles. It's an easy and cheap repair for the very few people that are undertaking it, otherwise its a very profitable one for the dealers.

I haven’t heard of any interval shortening for timing Belt replacement in France. For TDIs it is every 210000km.

I can't add to the knowledge base right now as we're thinking on similar lines - just a little further down the track. Thanks for the post; I'll be following with great interest.

Same as me, I used the same sump plug for the third time. I have a new one just in case, but upon close inspection was not necessary to replace it.

So the A/C compressor is running all the time the engine is turning and the A/C is activated by opening a valve, allowing the refrigerant to flow through the cooler? Seems a little inefficient to have something running when you don't want A/C on, especially on a smaller engined car. Also, what are the wires going to the compressor for then? Sensor wires? A 10A fuse seems a little excessive for a sensor and the diagnostic port, don't you think? Of course, if I knew about the A/C system on a Citigo I wouldn't be asking the question here so any help is gratefully received. Thanks,

It is belt driven, but as above, you can't see it without removing covers, see toothed belt; toothed belt guard - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2013 year] (7zap.com)

If it's the standard VAG sump plug then the washer comes with a new sump plug as the washer is captive (I've never had one fall off on me anyway). I believe you could get it off if you wanted though. I have never bought a new sump plug for any VAG car I've ever had and never had one leak yet.

Welcome to Skoda Becky10. Tell us some more about the car. Petrol or Diesel? Did you buy it from a Skoda dealer? What’s the mileage? Did they supply a print out of the service history? How many owners? As for the weirdo stuff, certainly a duff battery can make it do all sorts of strange things, but in any event, I’d be standing on their forecourt first thing on Monday and getting a courtesy car til it’s fixed.

It's nicer that way. I also removed all of the lettering on the outside.

That's how my MAP sensor is so that is normal. I had a similar problem on my Rapid TSI 1.2 and it was the turbo actuator arm sticking. Easy job to lubricate it, you will see a steel rod going from inside the actuator to the exhaust manifold, I just gripped tat rod with a pair of mole grips and pulled it away from the actuator and the back in, working it like this in and out while spraying both ends with penetrating oil, I've had no problems since. Hope this helps.

Ah so they are the illuminated icons! Yes mine does have it but it was too dark to check. I have every sympathy with the nephew for thinking that he could turn it anti-clockwise, he probably does not yet have a license so wont have twigged that you should not drive on foglights alone. I spent hours alone in the drivers seat of my parents car "practicing" (fantasising) for the day when I would be driving, I probably wore out the clutch, throttle and gear linkages, the engine would always be flooded after one of my sessions and not want to restart, being obsessive and with a thirst for knowledge I knew exactly what the problem was but did not dare admit it, when my father would lose his rag with the reluctant Capri I would suggest he tried again with the throttle on the floor just in case it might be flooded!

Agree re the ‘nippiness’ of the 1.5, though I’ve never driven the 1.0. Bigger is better in my view - the greater capacity makes the delivery of power effortless, and when combined with DSG gives a superbly relaxing drive. And there is little, if any, penalty in fuel consumption. I can get 55mpg plus on a motorway drive half laden.

Yeah it’s not exactly a straight forward job sadly. Basically everything at the front of the car needs removing including steering wheel, centre console, sometimes the seats too! There is also the possibility that it is not the motor and maybe the box has had an internal flap failure or one of the lever arms has broken or came detached. I also may have some replacement motors if you were interested in buying one? Also whilst I was there I’d be making sure to grease (with suitable grease) every moving part of that heater box, they have a tendency to make a noise a lot and get stuck in places

Jeez! I know @ApatureS has removed his dash (and everything else come to that) and he’s a tech too, so he’ll probably know.

Right. All you do is create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet for example MIB3 UG. Then find the zip file and then right click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to MIB3 UG folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished, format a usb memory stick so it's completely empty, then go to the folder MIB3 UG open it and copy the 2 folders and other file directly onto the memory stick. When it has finished copying the files to the memory stick it should look something like this... THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES THAN THIS. Once your memory stick looks like this, remove it and take it to the car. Insert it into a USB port, press and hold the menu button for about 10 seconds and the update menu will appear. At this point it's vital that you have a full or very well charged car battery or a battery charger attached so that the car doesn't shutdown halfway through the process. Ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. Here's a video that shows you what to do, albeit in German, you'll get the English version! If you watch it carefully you'll get the gist of what to do. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM.

You're a bad influence, you are! That car of the year sticker needs to be made into a replica!

I called Skoda....the helpful customer service desk sent me email below (told me the recommended intervals were removed July 1st 2023), which says both time and mileage based intervals are no longer given. The website still says 5 years. Wow.... So it's not even 10, 15 years, or 200k miles.... What about the people who spent £1k on this....or all those who spent anything on this? If I had the money I would have done it. Relieved but not happy tbh, or am I missing something.

You have a Private Message with 0369 version

I've just done the thermostat module and water pump on my EA888 Gen 3 golf R. And if it makes you feel any better, I reckon £1k is pretty fair. It used to be independents were about £800 and dealers £1000 to £1200, but recent part cost hikes and labour creeping up, that sounds about right and independents are probably where dealers were 2 years ago.. A 75k mile, 6.5 years old car, I did the job myself, used INA thermostat module, they are the OEM, plus gaskets, union, throttle body gasket, even after market that is around £400 plus parts. I spent about 2 days on it! it's rated as a 5 or 6 hour job for a professional workshop. But not on the drive. It's not super easy job without lifts to get under car. I couldn't walk that well for a week! Nothing is inherently super complicated but access is tight everywhere and anywhere and getting underneath and back up from under the car, on the drive, is really wearing. Without the intake manifold removed you have limited view for repositioning everything as well, especially the module positioning lugs and the oil cooler union that has to be lined up and kept in position while bolting the module up to the block!!