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New style charging systems for AGM and EFB batteries don't necessarily put out the (constant) voltages that old style ones do. I would say at 5 years old the battery is much more likely to be the problem, and at the prices you're talking for the alt replacement, imagine how gutted you'd be if you changed that and found no change to the situation.

No, both of your first two statements are quite wrong.

My viewpoint. You've done that trip with no heavy consumers running, apart from maybe headlights and a/c. If the alternator gives you that reading under heavy load I'd expect it to be more than capable of charging the battery under a light load. As mentioned above the battery is probably on its way out.

No need to even drive the car to clear the errors simply start the engine slowly turn the steering lock to lock back to centre with the steering ignition off ignition on sorted Spot on with the battery adaptations being required though

Googling your part number suggests that it may actually be the outer skin of the rear exhaust silencer.

I doubt a 1.2 could even break traction!

Successfully updated from 1896 -> 1941. My reboots were not that bad, every two/three weeks (but sometimes 3 times in a day). After that I updated maps to 2022.12 using skoda update portal. I took couple of hours with the USB-C stick plugged in.

YAY! Magnetic Brown Metallic? I think that’s two of us 280’s now with that colour! 😂 Notice any improvement after you’ve fitted the new turbo inlet?

They are both incorrect, either ignorant and ill informed which is perhaps understandable hence acceptable or looking to milk you which is not.

You can do it yourself as I covered on the SeatCupra thread: https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/updating-the-inbuilt-mib2-satnav-mib2-tricks-and-lost-mib1-card-solution.388586/page-136#post-5037297 Yours is a Mib2 standard but with mapcare. You need to apply the Seat workaround as well as outlined since you are on V4 of the maps and V12 is an upgrade. Take a back up copy of the map before you start. If using a Mac use Cleanmydrive. Use the b. option produced by Pcbbc in that link no coding is required. Basically back up card. Download V12 maps. Copy V12 maps to the card. Apply the Seat workaround... this The workaround for that is the standard one: The workaround for that is the standard one: Steps: Download the latest standard MIB2 maps on the infotainment go to settings, safely remove, sd1 card remove sd1 card from glove box slot long press on the on / off to reboot it a couple of times insert sd card in to computer copy and paste all contents to a directory on your computer Format the SD card keep it as fat32 and leave format settings as default in file explorer (don't forget to push the card lock mechanism to off) (ditto in a MAC or delete all from the SD card) Copy the new downloaded map version to the SD card (after unzipping it) Replace /maps/EEC/EEC_WLD/OVERALL.NDS on the SD CARD with the one from the original SD card eject the sd card (on a MAC run CleanMyDrive on the SD card - then eject) Inserted the card into the card 1 slot in glove box whilst infotainment is off power on and go to navigation Then apply b. of that link to the card. Quite a few people have got it working on Seats now. The only wrinkle for Seat's is the "workaround" 1-12 above that isn't required on VWs and Skodas. Seat never got life long mapcare so that avoids it. BTW other success ones are on this thread: https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/tmc-not-working.472987/ Mib2 High you do as published on Briskoda board no change, Mib2 standard (card based system, 6P descriptor as above in the picture means it's a Seat Mib2 standard, you use the published stuff here plus the workaround)... clear as mud. That's how I detected it's a Seat Mib2 standard and not Mib1 or a Mib2 High (Plus in Seat's terming of the unit).

Have you driven the 1.5dsg? As far as I can see you’ve only been out in a 1.0 manual. Think you’d notice a huge difference in the overall performance especially if there’s four adults travelling and add to that the extra weight for your luggage if you’re holidaying. The smaller engine would be fine for local stuff but you’d certainly welcome the 1.5 on longer runs.

Look for items with USB C connections, as USB C port only in Fabia. Many come with USB A to USB C adapters, but aesthetically better with USB C and short cable.

There is a thread for this, it describes everything you have to do if you want to convert to the FL taillights.

Just leave it plugged in, no drain on battery as it is not drawing any power when not connecting phone to head unit. If you have an Amazon account, I would recommend you buy one there from a seller with lots of positive comments. Easy returns if you have any issues, but in my experience, these adapters just work. If you buy one keep us updated on how it goes. Mine all came with double sided tape. I have mine discreeted on upper part of centre console, can only be seen when bent down and looking for it. I have not been in my car for well over a week, as since retiring I do not use any car very often. Car starts no problem, and by time I have reversed down driveway the adapter is fully connected and Carplay is on the car screen.

On my previous 1.4TSI I used to monitor the battery voltage on occasions and it would be 14.x volts after starting but when driving would drop as low as 12.x volts as the battery management tried to keep the battery state of charge no more than 80% to allow headroom for some micro regnerative braking (when the voltage again increased to 14.x volts).

Nah, stick your mobile phone round the back of the wheels and take photos of the inside of the wheel spokes. You're bound to be able to get some pics of the relevant numbers Gaz

Indeed...My premium went up 45% this year, no claims or changes from last year. A comparison with other providers showed no improvement to the renewal quote. Have just read an article in the Grauniad stating that spare parts are in short supply with extended delivery times to dealers which in some instances are causing insurance companies to write off perfectly good cars because the spares are not available.

Not strictly true, see post #2 above.

Under less load the cooling system doesn't have to work as hard so it can keep temperature under control then. 160 km/h is hard work and the engine will get hotter, so if you have a small problem with the cooling system you will see it at that speed. The water temperature gauge is programmed to read 90 *C when the actual temperature is between 75 & 105 *C, so you won't see if the car is gradually getting hotter until it gets outside that range. Watch your oil temperature to see the true engine temperature. Check that the cooling fans are ok and the radiator is not blocked.

Hello! I'd be happy to help explain how e-Tec (mild hybrid) systems work in cars. In e-Tec mild hybrid systems, the 12V battery is responsible for powering various auxiliary components in the vehicle, such as lights, infotainment system, and other electronics. The main engine starting is indeed done using the 48V battery system, which is typically connected to an electric motor or integrated starter generator (ISG). If your car's 12V battery is dead or very weak, it can potentially cause some issues with starting the vehicle or powering the electronics. In such cases, the 48V battery system might not be enough to start the engine, as it is primarily designed to assist the engine during acceleration and provide some additional power for efficiency improvements. As for generating the 12V power in the car, it can be done in a few ways. Some e-Tec systems use a DC-DC converter, similar to Toyota's hybrid technology, which steps down the voltage from the 48V battery to 12V to charge the smaller battery. Others may still use a traditional alternator connected to the internal combustion engine to charge the 12V battery. In any case, it's essential to ensure the 12V battery is in good condition to avoid any potential starting or electrical issues. Regular maintenance and checking the battery's health can help prevent such problems. I hope this clarifies how e-Tec (mild hybrid) systems work and how the 12V battery is involved in the process. If you have any more questions or need further information, feel free to ask!

TBH @Graham Butcher, the difference between the Normal and Comfort setting isn’t night and day, but it’s enough to stop the hitting the bump stop, especially when you’re loaded-up. I agree it’s nice to have the overall smoother Comfort ride on the motorway (we travelled back home yesterday from Birkenhead so 240-odd motorway miles) but on urban roads it’s awful, bouncing around over on uneven surfaces. And over sleeping policemen it’s like being in a boat!

Do you think they care? I like them drain my oil with a suction pump although certainly more diligently, I have never encountered sludge build up when dropping the sump on a modern engine using modern detergent oils with regular oil changes.

My pass switch up puts the drivers window down, pass switch down puts the drivers door window up. My drivers switch up puts the passengers window up, drivers switch down puts the passengers door window down.

I didn't make the stage 1 tune yet but what I felt It has slightly better gas throttle response.

There is a setting to choose if unlocking does just the drivers door or all of them. You just need to change it back 👍

Haha no idea. I once had a Citröen Xsara Picasso as a rental. The gearstick was on the dash IIRC. There must have been so many linkages between that and the box and it was like stirring soup in a bucket hoping you didn't drop from 4th to 2nd and ending up face planting the steering wheel 😂 TBH I love the madness of some of Citröen and Renault designs. Even ahead of their time in some cases like with the first mass market people carrier the Renault Espace and Citröen CX. From the 60s the DS is gorgeous and the noughties Avantime was nuts and should have sold more IMO.

Impressively this guy managed to hold on all the way home!

Ordered 29/03/23 received 01/07/24. We took Travel Assist High, Varioflex, Amundsen Plus, Canton, color Lava Blue.

This photo might help you a bit

It's not specific to "new" Skoda's, it's been the case for 15 or more years... My old MK2 Octavia would have done exactly the same when unplugging the airbag switch I'm not aware of any other method apart from removing the battery. Given the explosives in the airbag system, you should really be removing the battery and giving the system time to discharge before touching any airbag system related component...

Estates now gone to a new home. I've had a 5pot itch for a few years and a mate offered me a straight swap on a mk2 focus st225 Friday so we did the deal yesterday. It's been a pleasure for the last 2 years and I'm hoping the focus will be just as good. Stay safe folks and for now goodbye. I may see you again in the future who knows.

Dewipered the rear again

love the build audio is so neglected

Th Canton amp has a digital input so there are no analog inputs to connect to. The sub output from the Canton amp will be affected by the Canton EQ controls.

+1 - I've been pulled over for no tax and insurance on a car I owned that was taxed and insured. The Traffic officer was really good and said i'd quite likely get stopped again before the relevant databases were updated. I have a lot of empathy for TW. Our roads down South can be very busy, and there are roads I know very well, and therefore know where to overtake and where not to. In TW's place, I'd have likely given the Ferrari three chances to go where I would have. After the third I'd assume they were happy behind the silver/grey wagon, and I'd be planning to overtake two vehicles (assuming that slotting in between the Ferrari and van might not be an option, even if it should). Most overtakes are unnecessary. If I were the OP, I might've considered it better to get past the van when the opportunity prevailed, so that I wasn't stuck behind them at said intersection, where I might be able to get away when they can't. Either way, a duff experience for TW. Gaz

That's why you should always give plenty of indication before changing lane, so even if you don't see the person you are going to hit at least they will see your intentions and be able to take avoiding action. If it had been a motorcyclist overtaking, the Ferrari driver could have killed him. A 1 year ban and a court order to retake his driving test should be the absolute minimum for the Ferrari driver, and compensation for the victim. The Ferrari driver wouldn't be able to claim that the OP was making a dangerous overtake, because that was exactly what he was trying to do.

Is that you admitting to driving badly? 🤔 If so I applaud your honesty.

As someone who works at a car assembly line, that's actually fantastic, BUT as someone who also has a car with that part and there's always a chance of failure.... well.... not that fantastic 😅 Thanks for the manual pics, they're incredibly helpful.

Went on a mighty epic quest in Google worthy of King Arthur himself and was able to find pictures of the MK4 console's underside. I might try to remove it eventually based on these pictures. From what i'm seeing i'm almost 100% sure the noise comes from the white plastic rubbing against the black plastic. Silicone based or Dry PTFE lube WD-40 cans should do the trick.

What do you think of the fender badge?

*Update on situation* Called up the service center (Spoke to the manager) this morning and they asked me drive the car to them. Car was taken immediately to the workshop on arrival and was sorted out in 30mins. They did admit the oil was overfilled and now is at the right level. They apologised for not having done the screws up properly for the under tray. The residue of oil on the under tray was left from the engine oil filter service and was not cleaned. No leaks from the differential. They have refunded the whole cost of the service. Car is back at home, all good! Thanks a lot for the advice guys!

It's a little off topic to the question but it would be nice if AA would use more of the the screen space, there are some mm on the top edge just showing nothing. And if I had a free-wish I'd ask the developers to add an option to hide that lower bar with themperature control / seat heaters to make that space available for AA. too.

I’m just letting any VW owners that may be lurking here know that I successfully reactivated the TMC on my mib 2 high using 32782 in the 5F module using OBD11 pro.

Hello VW & Skoda Owners With the help of Pete, I now have fully working Skoda windows. (this after I had replaced the front door loom) Pete's own working background is in complex instrumentation electronics, he knows his stuff and is familiar with the causes of failure of the front powered windows of VW's & Skoda's May I praise and recommend Pete to you 🙂 Kind Regards Paul

Nice one and welcome to the Superb forum 🙂

Problem solved. After some time with the dealer to troubleshoot, it's been determined all 4 tyres likely have subtle flat spots so at certain speeds they'd create a resonant vibration. Swapped out for fresh new tyres and back to a smooth ride - very happy with the RS now!

@J.R. - sadly Australia doesn't have regular mandatory inspections. In the state of Victoria, we have Roadworthy Certificates which you only get when selling your car, but it's really just a safety check and doesn't include anything like that. I'll just have to wait for the dealer. @SouthernComfort - thanks for your sympathy, mate! Yeah it's turned me into a Debbie Downer when I should've been enjoying driving it on the twisties this long weekend! I might call them first thing on Tuesday if I can bring it in immediately rather than wait for Thursday as previously booked. Hmmmm I did wonder if it could've been CV axles, Ive had a Saab 9-3 combi with a worn joint but that wobble was more side to side whilst this feels more up and down. I guess all I can do, as you say, is bring it in and rely on Skoda doing the right thing! Here's hoping my loan car will be another RS!! 🤞

Hello I've been driving through France and across the North of Spain for 45 years and seen a lot of changes most of all it has become much easier for the non-Spanish speaker and in experienced right hand side driver. My first suggestion is get a ferry to Bilbao or Santander and drive the A8 (Autovia) to Galicia (top left corner Spain). The A8 is a magnificent road sweeping over mountains and valleys, UK has nothing like it. Along the way there are beaches on the North and mountains and routes to central Spain to the South. If you don't want to do motorway all the way there is the old road and the old old road still in existence, usually to its North. There is a lot of Spanish tourism in the area and it has now for the past 10yrs been discovered by North Europeans so English is spoken in most places. If you want to head south, I recommend looking for the road (N640*) south west out of Barres to Lugo, on to Ourense and then on to north Portugal. That will be a 3 day drive if you are not trying to break records. That journey will take you through green sweeps of land, across lakes and rias. I recommend doing it in late spring when the heat isnt too bad, the roads are quiet and you will not have half of Madrid competing with you for camping space or hotel rooms. * - road numbers in Spain. They change without warning. You can be driving along a national road such as the N640 which might change to the LL-200 and back to N640. It takes too long to explain why.

Definitely give it a go! Just "glue" your left foot to the footrest, move the gear lever into D, then accelerate and brake as you would with a manual. After five miles or so, I can almost guarantee you'll be hooked