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Jeesus - you need to get to A&E quick-smart matey!

Your "G-spot"?

Do you need Hill Descend control in the Netherlands ? 😜

As I was cycling home, over the Polegate by-pass this afternoon, I saw some tell tale LED DRL's and a flash red Polo come off the Cophall roundabout slip road. Mrs Gaz was on her way back from Crowborough (funeral directors and solicitors) - what are the odds of me cycling over it at the exact time Mrs Gaz was driving under it? She beat me home 🙄 Said she didn't see me..... in my dayglo orange hi-viz cycling top, bathed in bright sunshine, cloak of invisibility Gaz

Hi, I've had several mk1 Octavia's over the years but a few years ago owned a BMW 3-series with a heated steering wheel. Wow...what a thing to have and a real solution to the raynaud's that I suffer with in the winter. Anyway..I sold the BMW and ended up in a mk3 Leon for a bit. I managed to retrofit a HSW to that car and wrote a how-to guide on the seatcupra.net forum. The Leon has now gone - because obviously I wanted to be back in an Octavia - and I have completed the same retrofit in my 2017 FL vRS, using some of the same parts. Got to love MQB platform sharing! So this how to guide is basically a rewritten version of the guide for the Leon, utilising some of the same pictures, albeit the Skoda specific ones are included. I'm going to say that this will work on any MQB platform Octavia, but I'm thinking you will need a 'high' level BCM to get it to work and probably heated seats as a minimum. Can't be 100% certain, but it was a straightforward fit on my vRS (with winter pack). Anyway...here goes: It's actually a really easy retrofit once you get the right parts and if you look around it needn't be mega expensive. The total cost for me to do this retrofit was in the region of £450. So it's not the cheapest by any stretch however if you keep an eye out on eBay and other selling sites the parts do come up for sale at reasonable prices. *I'm not writing this as an idiots guide and won't include how-to's for things like removing the glovebox, airbag, steering wheel or other things. There are guides for that online if you need them, but please only attempt this if you're competent to do so* This retrofit details the procedure for fitting the HSW from a mk3 Octavia/Superb. The mk4 platform wheels may well work however I preferred to keep the wheel and MFSW buttons that matched my car. Parts Required: - The heated steering wheel from a Mk3 Octavia or Mk3 Superb. They are available in both manual and DSG however if you want a flat bottomed one then it'll be DSG only as far as I can tell. I couldn't find a manual flat bottomed HSW anywhere. There are a variety of part numbers but as an easy reference you're looking for the tell-tale two-pin plug that provides power to the heating elements, like this: I bought one from a manual Octavia and sent it off to Royal Steering Wheels to be retrimmed in vRS leather with red stitching (you can see the plug in the below picture too). It's worth noting that if you want a retrim you will end up with a slightly thicker steering wheel because it's not possible to remove the leather from a HSW without damaging the elements. So the retrim leather is laid on top of the existing wheel. The heat still penetrates through without issue: - The HSW specific airbag for the steering wheel - part number is 6V0 880 201 T 1ZY. God knows why but Skoda, in their wisdom, use a different airbag because the wheel is a different shape at the top. This picture shows the differences - the HSW specific airbag is at the bottom of the picture: - Steering wheel control module (also known as clock spring or slip ring) - 5Q0 953 549 B or 5Q0 953 549 D. The 'D' suffix is the newest part number, supercedes the 'B' suffix and is available new on eBay for around £150. These control modules have a different type of plug (14-pin as opposed to 16-pin) which has larger power and earth pins for the HSW, pictured here: - Kufatec MQB heated steering wheel retrofit loom - the Kufatec part number for RHD cars is 43696-1. OR* - 14-pin multiplug so you can re-pin the existing 16-pin plug - 5Q0 972 726 * if you choose to repin the existing plug (as I did) then you'll need to sort out some wiring and pins to suit the power feed and ground wire needed to power the HSW. The Kufatec loom makes it pretty much plug and play. Tools needed: Standard workshop tools including Torx bits 12mm triple square (splined) bit for the steering wheel centre bolt VCDS (or equivalent) for coding - Hex-Net or Hex-V2 as a minimum for MQB coding. Procedure: - Grab a quick VCDS snapshot of the long coding on your current steering wheel module in case you ever return the car to standard. - Disconnect the battery - Remove the airbag, steering wheel, column shroud trim, glovebox and centre console side trims, something like this: - Remove the steering wheel control module. - Unclip and pull out the fusebox - Run the Kufatec loom from column to the fusebox using an appropriate routing where it won't chafe on anything - Fit the power feed and earth of the Kufatec loom to the fusebox and surrounding area according to their instructions (if building your own loom, you can use fuse position SC24 or any along the same row - they are a terminal 30 feed) - Refit the fusebox - Fit the new steering wheel control module - Plug the Kufatec loom into the steering wheel control module (if building your own loom, now is the time to re-pin the original column plug into the new 14-pin plug - this is well documented on other forums however the pin-out is as follows: Pin 1 (16-pin) red/white to Pin 2 (14-pin) Pin 2 (16-pin) brown to Pin 4 (14-pin) Pin 3 (16-pin) orange/brown to Pin 5 (14-pin) Pin 4 (16-pin) orange/green to Pin 6 (14-pin) Pin 5 (16-pin) black/white to Pin 7 (14-pin) Pin 6 (16-pin) black/red (if present) to Pin 13 (14-pin) Pin 7 (16-pin) purple/red to Pin 12 (14-pin) Pin 8 (16-pin) purple/blue to Pin 14 (14-pin) Pin 11 (16-pin) blue/grey to Pin 9 (14-pin) PIn 14 (16-pin) black/grey to Pin 10 (14-pin) Pin 16 (16-pin) black to Pin 11 (14-pin) Pin 1 of the 14-pin plug goes to a 15A fuse protected terminal 30 feed Pin 8 of the 14-pin plug goes to earth. - Refit the centre console side trims and steering column shroud. - Refit the glovebox. - Fit the heated steering wheel - Fit the new airbag Double check you're happy with everything, then reconnect the battery. Should look something like this: Fire up VCDS again, do the relevant coding. Module 08 (HVAC) - Coding - Long Coding Helper (and say "yes" to the "trying experimental features" to see more descriptions of bits) - Byte 11: Add a tick to bit2 and bit3 - Byte 13: Choose whether you want the wheel to come on automatically with either outside temperature or wheel temperature or not at all. Done! Enjoy a little HSW logo come up on your HVAC control screen (press the 'menu' button to access this screen) : Enjoy the extra settings for the HVAC where you can alter the temperature of the HSW, decide whether you want the HSW to come on automatically (3 degrees C or below if I remember rightly) and choose if you want the HSW to come on automatically with the heated seats. Also, if you do switch the drivers heated seat on then this option comes up where you can quickly choose the temperature of the HSW as well: Sorry about the dust and fingerprints on the screen....it's due a clean inside. Check on VCDS to see what's going on in the measuring blocks within Module 16 -Steering Wheel: Look forward to having warm hands come the winter. NB - Mine is a 2017 manual vRS so I didn't have to worry about any coding of the DSG paddles etc. All of the steering wheel buttons worked on my car without any issue. Yours may not be the same, but any issues would be easily solvable with the relevant coding alterations I'm sure. Thanks Tom

Just got a delivery of my KISS low tech device for making sure i do not overstay on chargers and i am ready every 15 minutes to restart charging @ Tesco PodPoints where an hour on them can save my £3. Pick up my new MINI on Thursday and off on an up to 10 charging session road trip on a route with 50 kW chargers that are free to use. I will use 11 kW AC chargers if needs must.

Agree. For me I use previous car as a benchmark as similar in size to the ID.4. Current price of £1.48 ppl around here means my price per kWh before EV is more expensive is 59p/kWh. So basically any public rapid charger is more expensive than previous diesel car. Charging at home is the only way to be sure of cheaper running costs, otherwise you are into the realms of buying a subscription then searching for chargers which use that service and there is a discount. I do think CPOs are taking the urine with their current prices, since the very high wholesale prices of the recent past have dropped a lot over the past few months to levels they were when prices were in the 40p range. I hope we start to see some price competition soon, perhaps with the likes of Sainsburys opening charger hubs it will happen.

I'm just back having dropped into Skoda to book a test drive for tomorrow but actually ended up being able to take one out there and then. Kudos to Skoda Dundee for that. Test drove a newer VRS Coupe version with all the bells and whistles however I refraining from playing with any of the extra toys that are probably missing from the Suite version that I'm targeting. Took it for an hour and drove it on a variety of A and B roads and did some dual carriageway driving, some town traffic which was stop start. Really blown away with how it drove and the kids who were in the back loved it also. Very much on par space wise when compared with my current VW Passat. Completely loved it so have fired in my application form to EST and will start looking around to see who has what. Sadly the white suite that was available in the group stock in Aberdeen was already reserved. Loving the forum and I appreciate you all taking the time to reply to my posts. Chris.

If the steering wheel is at it's highest point of adjustment and the seat is uncomfortable any lower or further back, I guess the only options are to put up with it, or get a steering wheel with a larger diameter. Gaz

Not as issue for me on this car or any other car I've driven.

Mine did that. IMO diamond cut alloys are just a bad idea in general, the laquer really doesn't grab the clean turned metal surface at all well. Depends how much you like the diamond cut finish. I ended up getting all 4 wheels refurbed and painted all over metallic dark grey with no diamond cut. The company that did the work used a standard BMW alloy colour so I could buy touch-up paint in the correct shade. I'll be honest I think I prefer the look to the DC finish anyway and its certainly easier to live with.

If it was an issue with the Passat for 20 years and you never found a solution is it likely now there is one? Probably it is people the same height as you with the seat in the same position and the steering wheel that would have the same thing.

I'm sure the failure rate is actually very low and I wouldn't be without ours, especially with the virtual pedal. It's fantastically convenient when you're carrying bulky items, or using both hands to carry "stuff".

On brakes. The 340mm disc are plenty enough. With some good performance pads in they do work well and if you do want a nice upgrade the discs can remain the same size and Aston Martin 4 pots fitted also if you want to go up a size to 360mm I think then the Audi tts brakes fit. However !!! Bigger disc mean more weight. I’ve done the ring a few times with these 340mm Zimmerman (golf club sport) discs and drilled rears and never had a problem. But also the ring is not that heavy on brakes (tyres and keeping engine cool however) compared to a smaller circuit.. for fast road standard disc and performance pads and lines are way more than adequate.

You could say the same thing about an entire car, no? it’s only a convenience, you could technically walk everywhere. and a set of aftermarket struts are around £250 so not exactly bank breaking in the entire scheme of things

Thanks. I looked up adjusting the seat and brought it right down, I preferred it up but now the dials are not obscured I think, need to be road tested. Thanks!

Skoda quoted me£299 for the basic service (pollen filter change and safety check). I got Cleevely to do a full service (strip and clean and lubricate brake calipers etc) for £216

@AGFalco, I'm glad you posted that, it forced me to re-think what I had written ie "6 years" instead of "4 years", which is what I claimed was the spark plug and air filter change period - even although I went on to say that my approaching 8 years old car was due its 2nd spark plugs and air filter change, I have edited that posting now!

In my opinion you shouldn't spend any more than you need to, boost hoses are either airtight or they aren't.

Hello, i want to buy a skoda octavia vrs 17-18, but i mind about opf, does it have? The model that i want to buy is rs challange plus, 06/2018. Does it have opf? or only late 11/2018 to 19 have opf.

No. 4 litres for a service & 4.5 litres if the engine is dry. Due every 40K miles / 4th service. Is the car on fixed servicing? Thanks. AG Falco

(Fingers crossed) My Pixel 6 connects wirelessly and stays so.👍

Actually looking at the wheelbase and tracks of the M3 it seems to be bigger than the Superb!! Shows how big cars are getting these days 😞

If I had a RR my chaffuer would have the problem of parking it The front track on the M3 is almost 64 inches though, so it's not a slam dunk

Nobody can accuse you of not giving the EV thing a go. The cost of fast chargers is a pain and one that would impact me, as I regularly drive the sort of mileage you describe. I can live with the cost however, as it's for the good of the planet etc (still not totally sold on that one yet), but I am not time rich at work and the searching - and possible unreliability of service, could cost me my decent reputation. I work in an industry where turning up late is a dealbreaker. plus I don't want to be sitting around at 2 in the morning filling up the car in order to get home before sunrise. It seems that on talking to EV owners that have a similar lifestyle to my own, that the problems are not improving, at least not significantly. I wonder if it's because although chargers are increasing, so are EVs on the road, so the ratio of convenient and working charge points, are running roughly hand in hand with the current stock of EVs doing the rounds. I can't use the new Tesla chargers at my local retail park as they don't have a type 2 charger and the same has happened at my local water park where I go for walks a couple of times a week. A type 2 low power charger would be perfect. I go for a 6-9 mile walk so it would easily give the charge I need to get home, but they have fitted chargers for people who want to drive large distances I assume, not us humble hybriddidy types 😞 At least I assume that's why, after all, if you are the water park for a few hours then your car is already partially charged, then you will easily charge to max capacity with these blitz charging thingummybobs and so will then be attracting a penalty payment for hogging the charger? A colleague I work with extensively has just bought a Taycan (with the big battery) so it will be interesting to see how he copes, although he doesn't do quite the mileage I do, as he is trying to work less. In winter time, we do a job in London every year (I reckon it's a 220+ mile journey down for him), where there is a daily 20-mile round trip for the couple of weeks we are there, so that should be interesting (we are talking 14-hour work days too). I expect he will not be able to stay at the same digs as we normally do however, as they do not have any charge points 😞 I know EVs are the future 😞 but I'm hoping I'm retired before I'm forced to run one. Range, charge points, dashing around the country etc will no longer be of concern really, so although it will be a sad day when I say goodbye to ICE cars, at least I'll still be mobile.

It's the exit spiral that's the killer. It's the inside loop, so even tighter (the easier entrance loop lulls you into a false sense of security). The M3 with its long wheelbase and rather wide track and body, is something that focuses the mind on exit I got a discount for about £8 per 24 hours

Nope but I can send you link for MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0480T. All others pls check your PM.

That MY LR only needing one 33min charging stop to go 478 miles is pretty epic. I guess diesel driver are going to say they can drive that distance non-stop because they have no bodily function requirements 🤪 Holidaying in Austria at the moment. Got a X1 diesel as rental car. It’s such a horrible driving experience. Forget much more expensive MY, I prefer my £5k (current worth) Nissan Leaf to this new-ish diesel: B mode regen braking, instant acceleration, no gear change delay, no engine noise and vibration, much smoother drive at lower speeds. At this Austria apartment we rented: Tesla provides those chargers for free. In return, there is Tesla-only charging (red) and a few public charging (white). At those locations, charging is completely free. https://www.tesla.com/en_gb/charging-partners @toot, worth seeking out these chargers if you want much cheap-ness? https://www.tesla.com/en_gb/findus?v=2&bounds=58.79959858334538%2C-1.6884431664088972%2C55.03126146463905%2C-5.808316213283897&zoom=7&filters=destination charger

6R2721503D is a current part number that hasn't been superseded. I wouldn't bet on an older (6Q) variant working right, and a 6Q1 part will be a LHD pedal I think, so probably not going to even physically fit.

at 31K miles my pads are 70% worn and discs showing 'slight corrosion' on the rear. Want £696.56 to do the pads!

Thank you for the help! But how @langers2k said, maybe if i check the car with carvertical or any app for car history and info, maybe i can see there the gpf being an option or some sort?

I wont be doing a lot of long distance, the maximum I would probably do on one return journey would be 130-140 miles, but that would be very occasionally with most journeys being local.

@Esseesse200 TTS brakes are 340mm front

I have Matrix led and auto high beam and cornering. Mine looks like A.

We got a discount for the Q Park and it is a lovely thing on the higher floors.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145129224765?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=uBbwinh9RCO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=vB4oy_wsSh6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Try AUTODOC mate if your not in a rush I.e a week or two from Germany , if your in a mad rush get the part number off the helpful vw garage and get on euro car parts/ eBay garage

You might find just replacing the anti-roll bar drop links takes away all of the crashing but not the bouncing, you should definitely replace them at the same time.

It was pretty straight forward,when removing the old pulley the shear plate was harder to remove than the pulley because its on a splined shaft,we used two large screw drivers and levered against the pulley ,in the centre there where 2 shims which don't come with the new pulley,once off there's a plastic cover that you ease out which covers the circlip,remove the circlip and gently pry off the pulley,when refitting we used a tube the same size as the bearing race and gently taped it on,it was not hard to tap on,fitted the circlip back in then the plastic cover,we then put the 2 shims inside the new shear plate,when putting the shear plate back on you have to get it bang on straight to the splined shaft,put the bolt back in with some loctite,fitted a new ancillary belt,made sure the compressor engaged and disengaged and i had cold air it works perfect.

@Gabbo Read again. OP states it was changed at their "local car accesory shop". That's far from a battery specialist. I did a google search for the type of battery the OP said was installed and the results are vague at best. Most accurate result was an EFB battery. If the original was AGM then coding is absolutely required.

It is not an engine out job. You need to move the steering rack out of the way. If the filter canister can be removed (it is clamped and not welded) you can find a replacement part for around 600euros. Otherwise it's around 2k. This would be a clamped DPF canister.

Well, I have solved many of the problems and thereby perhaps gained a new one or two! Firstly, as several of the above folk suggested the DPF does indeed seem to be the root of much evil. However fixing it is definately not easy. I obtained a new DPF, got the car up on the lift only to discover that the DPF and the Cat are welded together. It appears I mush replace both together. Next problem, how to replace the Cat and DPF. It would appear to be eithe an engine out job or a drop the entire front suspension. There does not seem to be anything like enough space to remove these items otherwise. If anybody has a suggestion I would be most gratefull. An alternative fix which I have implemented is rather controversial! I remover the exhaust pipe from the DPF and using a 10mm drill and a hammer and chisel I have removed much of the porcelain element in the DPF. Finally some exahaust gasses can pass through Much fixed. Now the motor is using considerably less than half the diesel as before, the running on of the ventilator is stopped, no more limp home mode and masses of power when I accelerate. BUT...................... Certain errors are now showing up eg. P0401 and P2002. Obviously this is only a very temporary fix but does allow me to see clearly that the investition in a new DPF is necessary this and will be made in the next few weeks. Or sooner if somebodey tell me how to do this without removing the engine!

That's incorrect - even if the new battery has the exact same specs (Ah and A), u still should do the battery adaptation, as good practice. Over time, as the battery gets old, the battery charging and conditioning algorithm will change, to adapt to the aging battery. When u put a new battery in, and do the adaptation - it will reset the charging and conditioning pattern, that is ideal for a new/fresh battery.

Yes thanks but pretty set on the Rapid just trying to find one they are like hens teeth.

@Gabbo although you are technically correct that no coding is needed if the same spec battery is installed, cranking amps and capacity is very likely to be different between manufacturers so coding in is advisable. It will also take some time (does anyone know how long?) for the car to recognise a new unit has been installed so initially it will still think the old duff unit is present and so charging appropriately. I'm fairly certain this period is nil if coded in. @Toonbartcan you share the symptoms that lead to the battery change and also the response of the car when it doesn't start? Sounds to me that there is an underlying issues that a new battery might be used to mask. The starter on my old octavia was very dirty and pulling lots of current to get it to start the car. One garage said it needed a new battery, but, cleaning of the starter solved 80% of the issues for much less expense.

@beej the prices seem to be a lot more similar between 235/245 in Europe and probably contribute a slight bit to fuel economy. The whole VW group generally use the same tyre size for their cars (i.e. Tiguan/Kodiaq/Tarraco all use the same tyre size for a given rim size/width) which may be another factor.

I think I am going to buy the car. I only got the price down a little bit £19179.00 I scared but I really like it and it has been looked after..🙂

I had the same on my previous Superb, the expansion tank was empty with no sign of any leakage on the floor, it was collecting it in the undertray. Doubtless if an excessive amount had leaked out the undertray would have overflowed but no signs of a leak otherwise.

Thank you for all your comments and suggestions My offending bits of trim were still surviving , just. I decided to opt for the 3M tape solution. I looked behind one of the offending trims and saw a huge buildup of various road dirt so thought that the HB42 glue might not stick too well to what was a dirty door. I took the trims off which came off remarkably easily and cleaned them up. I cleaned the remaining tape of the door with a wooden scrapers made from icecream lolly sticks suitably sharpened. Then I cleaned the residue off both doors and trims with a toothbrush and methylated spirits.... it took a while. When cleaned and prepared I stuck the trims on with the 3M tape and it seems to have done a good job. Only time will tell. the whole job took me about 3 hours with most of that being the cleaning of the old tape off the doors. Thank you all for your suggestions. Thank you Oldstan for keeping me fresh in your thoughts

I had a fair few issues recently on the same engine. 2015 Octavia 3 vRS 2.0 TDI (CUPA). Symptoms included Loss of power P0299 Turbo underboost DTC Fan running for extended periods of time Poor fuel economy Burning through oil like nobody's business (from full to empty in 600 miles average). I spoke to a fair few VW "Specialists" who all said that given the cars high milage 197,000 that this would be a turbo failure and quoted me +£800 for a replacement. Checked the DPF and it appeared it was fully blocked with a back pressure of approx 5 psi. Cleaned out the DPF and the car works a treat.