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I've only got one hook, so I assume it works for both ends as I've never used it.

Somebody seems a little bit obsessed with EV's, fires and watching randos on YouTube.

I have a smart meter and am on the Agile Octopus tariff where the charge per kWh varies every half hour through the day and night to encourage people on this tariff to try to use electricity when demand is lower. Agile Octopus

Smart meters. Key isn’t what kind of dual rate meters, key is smart meters that reports half hourly consumption. Check out this thread:

in my mind a GT car is - big enough for passenger comfort and luggage. a lovely interior to be in while driving and aesthetically pleasing on the outside (for the commoners to admire ) quick and loud when wanted but effortless quiet cruising for the bulk of the journey. you shoukd be able to drive it 500miles and still be able to stand up without grimmacing when you get out. the F Type is definitely a GT. Aston Martin DB9 def GT, where as i think the DB11 crossed too much into sporty looking. @Aspman can say what a Quatraporte is like, but it is also imo a GT car. a old Rolls isnt a GT, i dont think, more a mobile sitting room. an SLR could be a nice GT car, but i dunno is it too persistently loud for a long cruise?

The outside diameter of 235/45R17 is too small for the Superb MK3. When people say up to 5% difference in outside diameter is ok, they normally mean up to 5% bigger than standard, not smaller. It depends how the engine's torque characteristics cope with pulling the oversize gearing and with big differences you would need to check that the speedometer doesn't underread. 5% bigger in outside diameter is actually quite extreme, but some people manage that, although most would choose a much smaller difference...perhaps up to 1.5% to 3% bigger outside diameter than standard. As the Audi rims are 7.5Jx17 ET44 (and presumably 5/112 57.1), then that would be an ideal rim width and offset for 235/55R17 when fitted to the Superb MK3. As you can see in the chart below, 235/55R17 has an outside diameter 2.9% bigger than 235/40R19. Outside diameter of tyres 235/40R19 670.6mm 235/55R17 690.3mm (+2.9% compared to 235/40R19) 225/55R17 679.3mm (+1.3% compared to 235/40R19 215/55R17 668.3mm (-0.3% compared to 235/40R19) 225/50R17 656.8mm (-2.1% compared to 235/40R19) 235/45R17 643.3mm (-4.1% compared to 235/40R19) The Vredestein Quatrac Pro has been around for many years, but it's recently been updated to the Pro+ model as shown in the link below. It's one of the few all-season tyres that has a non-directional tread pattern, so can be fitted in any position on the car. Vredestein Quatrac Pro+ 235/55R17 103V XL (non-directional tread pattern) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Vredestein/Quatrac-Pro_/235-55-R17-103V-XL/D-131224

It's a great feeling when the radio suddenly works! Am pleased for you mate. This site has saved me a fortune the last two years.

? Who told you these parts need to be changed, was it a trusted mechanic. ? Your car needs some maintenance, and who is going to buy it as it is. ? What are you going to be buying next because whatever it is you will need to maintain. Find a good trusted mechanic and stick with them. Fix this car and keep or sell it and then look after the next one. IMO that is.

"chilly 21C".......thats WARM!!!............ I'm lucky if the sea water gets that warm at the height of summer where I live!!....usually its between 12C & 16C when I'm swimming in the summer!

You really have this so wrong. You signed up to an agreement which says: "This service plan is fully transferable to a subsequent owner if you decide to sell your vehicle before the plan comes to an end, provided that you have made all the payments. You and the new vehicle owner will need to advise us of the transfer in writing within a period of 21 days following the transfer of ownership. The purchaser must also agree in writing to be bound by the terms and conditions of this agreement. The agreement is non-refundable and non-transferable to another vehicle." Therefore you have no basis for complaint. Here's what should have happened. Someone wrote off your vehicle. If there was a service plan you lost out on then it's the 3rd party insurer who pays the money - it comes under "additional losses". And as a footnote, if you felt you were sold short on the price of your damaged car, that too should have been claimed for in 'other losses.' VWFS had no legal obligation whatsoever to refund you the monies because they did everything according to the agreement. So rather than bash them, you should feel extremely lucky. VWFS trying to steal your payments? Now that's just stupid. The warning should be "read the agreement" I certainly wouldn't have refunded you.

The airbags did not deploy, and it was also found that the cable harnesses of the two rear doors were broken. This has been rectified and the problems have since disappeared, as has the emergency mode.

Hi I can't really think of anything that would link a clutch replacement to a change in real mpg. The Yeti seems to normally have particularly low rolling resistance, so for lower speed journeys this helps the mpg. I have a number of regular medium length journeys and find the two main things that affect mpg are the amount of traffic (no surprise) and whether it is raining. I put the latter down to the extra drag of tyres on wet versus dry roads, and the extra drag of driving through puddles etc. I used to run on ethanol free Esso fuel, but that's now 5% ethanol so I am back to E10 which has made consumption about 2 mpg worse. I'd be inclined to see how things go, but you could have a peek under the bonnet and under the car to make sure all the cables and hoses have been put back !

Having just acquired a Jaguar F Type I think I have entered the arena of the GT owner (?) I've had the odd sports car, but mostly hot hatches and some silly saloons and coupes. The Jag doesn't really count as a Sports car in my eyes in either convertible or couple form. It is sprung quite firmly ("taught" might be a good description), although not as crashy as my previous M3, at least at low speeds, it is certainly quite quick, with the best part of 600hp allegedly under the bonnet and it can make quite a nice noise (it's half the reason for getting it ). But it is slightly impractical, compromised, beautiful to look at (in my eyes) and cruises effortlessly (top gear is stratospheric, so much so it can average 30mpg as 70 mph without problem). It is also quite heavy, but all cars seem to be these days and having a rather large supercharged engine and a 4x4 drive train doesn't help. I've often read the F type is the poor man's (and woman's ) Aston and in many ways this is probably true. If you can hire one - either the R (575ps) or R-Dynamic (450ps), but not the 300ps version - then I think you won't be disappointed. Great for cruising and they make a great noise under load once the needle passes around 3.5k The boot size is quoted at different volumes depending on what you read, but I can pack a very large suitcase and several squishy bags in it, but be aware, there is very little storage space in the cabin. It also has a 70 litre tank so if you keep your speed reasonable and don't drive too much in town, there is reasonable range to be had I shamelessly posted a link to some photos I took recently on Brisky, but here it is again in case you missed it https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjB7fC8

Hello 👋 I was wondering how safe should be to remap this engine. 1.5 tsi 150hp manual transmission. I tell this because it has the active cylinders. So is it safe to boost for stage 1? It's about 25 hp and 50 NM. Also does any of you knows if the active cylinders materials are weaker? For example the rod, the rings, the injectors. And i am wondering for future problems from the less wear of active cylinders. Thank you in advance, and excuse me for the bad English. Bye 👋

I quite fancy hiring a Grand Tourer car for an 'Occasion' next year, keen to get ideas and a better understanding of what makes an ideal GT car. There are many out there I'm sure, but I must admit to being easily get confused by what is a GT car and what's a Sports car - I don't want a bold, brash machine with a hard ride, rather something more elegant with an effortless, pliant waft through the countryside. Guessing that points me in the direction of a Bentley Continental or something of that ilk, but they seem a bit OTT to me. Something iconic appeals too, so maybe not Audi, or Mercedes. Oh, and I'm just shy of 2m tall so nothing tiny or I won't fit 🤣 I think of Ferrari, Aston Martin, and Porsche as sports cars, but are there some models that fit the GT mould? As you can see, I'm in that odd position of knowing what I want without actually knowing what I want!

My thoughts - Might not be one single thing but a combination (or might be one one thing) so I am now looking at things in the round rather than lasered down to plug colours only (and I agree with you can have two sets of two colours of plugs from a single carb). I would have a look at the Triumph forums that use a similar engine for some clues perhaps to your issue(s). Starting on three suggests that's an issue too, are you sure it's three, suggest HT side from cap to plug, or is it two getting too much or too little fuel as per plugs. Electronic igniter heads can go off and dissy caps being crap is not uncommon from the cheaper makers / suppliers (and their rotor arms). Also electronic dissy top leaves usually very worn and never very long lasting mechanical dissy bottom (well British ones anyway) and rebuilt last a couple years of use before wobbling out again but perfectly useable for a couple of decades perhaps. Bosch rotor arm have a 5 whatsit resistor in them that can start to break down before it fails that might also hinder starts and setting up and running, if the rotor arm is still in good condition you can sweat out the resistor and remove it and bridge the gap. If you have what is called a red rotor arm from one of the cheaper suppliers you get what you pay for but even Bosch and Beru can go. Sparks plugs are genuine and not counterfeit or the very cheap ones from the cheap suppliers of cheap ignitor heads and ignition kits and cheap HT leads. The shut off test previously described is very good if your able to do it and you can get and handle what will be hot plugs (easier on a X-flow than when the exhaust manifold is within skin blistering error area). Vacuum hose is best to be marked vacuum hose or thicker wall not flimsy thin walled old rubber. Thinking of which what colour is anything coming out of the exhaust tail pipe after full engine warm up at idle? Care must be taken with where any hoses off the engine come and go and blanking off. You put your engine was same as the Wikki photo but then that there was a variation, are you able to see a period photo of your exact engine set up to your model and year in case there are other variations, owners alter things over decades so unless you have a concours correct car exactly the same model and year it is difficult to know which is correct (from factory at least). I would be going back to just after setting valve clearances and rechecking everything, if you know someone with the same parts, and they are fully working well, you could try swapping over your parts to their car to test them and their parts on your car. Just because something has been rebuilt doesn't always mean it has been done well or mistakes not made or faulty parts fitted, just because a part is new doesn't mean it cannot be faulty, or even the correct part sometimes. I had 30+ years of buying and fitting ****-poor "classic" car parts, generally period New Old Stock parts (if still available) or working or serviceable genuine old parts are often much better than new made parts. (well for UK anyway) . A different person looking at or working on the car can sometimes spot the obvious you have overlooked or previously checked or not bothered to check as "it won't / can't be that". Wow, that was a lot, enough for now. 😄

I'm going to see if my charger still works in the morning, not used it in ages. I did fix it up some time back. Its an 'intelligent' job. I did check the meter out earlier against some 12V regulated wall warts. It just reads a tad low on the scale I'd have to use for 12V. Also remembered i had a battery / alternator tester which luckily was in the boot. The folks had one as well which seems more accurate than the one i have. It just a very sensitive restricted ranged voltmeter that covers from 5v to 15v with an LED at the main voltages of interest. So 12V 12.5V 13.0V 13.5V 14V. I find the Fabia does mist up very easily, it drive's me mad trying to clear it. Even when engaging the cabin recycling over night. I use a window vac which makes quick work of clearing the glass, but then have to blast it with hot air when i get moving then reduce fan speed heat as it clears when driving. I try to leave the windows cracked open if it a dry sunny day to try and clear the damper air. I used to have a VW Bora that was bad for misting up as well. Annoying design thing with the mk3 Fabia is rain running off the roof straight into the cabin when you open a door.

Ford GT40 Mk 1 or 2 - LA to NY road trip just for the hell of it. 😄

Very likely that or bottom hose/connections.

Which makes me think of the HT leads.

He's a tad under 6'5" - like me 😁 (Although I was 6'5" 25 years ago, just not now). I was going to suggest an F Type. Thinking about Harry, his Project 7 (or 8 ) might be interesting. Not exactly wafters though. I used to hanker for a 928 S4 GTS, but the last time I drove a 928, the soundtrack was very 'waftable', but I realised I'd gotten over the hankering. What about a classic Rolls? Gaz

Normally the PDC / parking aid is supplied from fuse 9 - 5A. The fuel pump under the rear seat is the closest user in the back I can think of. But if the PDC ever created a fault and blew the fuse troubleshooting would be a nightmare.

Well it looks like you and me both failed to noitice that little button top right on the steering wheel. I think considering the rest of the ACC stuff is on the stalk, we can perhaps be forgiven?! Unfortunately I can't try it until tomorrow but hopefully it will make the Lane Assist actually work properly!

The a/c may just need re-charging with gas. How long have you had the car?

What's shown in the "results" will tell you whether there is a circumference difference with the tyres you are selecting & the offset won't interfere when turning. The tyres you selected are not standard OEM dimensions. They are as below for the 17": 215/55 R17 ET41 6.5j 215/55 R17 ET40 7J XL stands for Extra Load and I guess isn't really important. The base tyre rating in the Superb is 94H and the XL tyres seem only available on the higher speed rating. The offset differnce is only 4mm which is not much. I think the rule of thumb is less than 5% circumference difference is ok to keep the speedo within tolerance but in sure some others can confirm.

What indication are you getting that your engine is overheating if the temperature gauge is displaying normal?

I think it's actually the opposite of your assessment of ratios. But who am I to judge, I'm just another raving nutter with prejudices. I simply place my trust in professionals and authorities. I mean, they can't all be bribed, can they?

Hello, are the plugs all the same heat range? Your description sounds as if cylinders 1 and 4 are running too rich - while 2 and 3 are too lean. It's hard to understand how the carburettor or inlet manifold could do that. Have you checked cylinder compressions? How does the engine run - any loss of power or misfiring? I'd suggest fitting new, correctly-gapped plugs and recheck after a reasonable mileage.

For the last thirty six Christmas Days I have been in Australia it has been a 'tradition' for me to go for a swim on Christmas Day with all but one on the nearby beach and the exception a couple of hundred km inland in the River Murray. Often conducted in beautiful weather and clear seas but occasionally more challenging when cool and very windy. This year Christmas day is forecast to max out at a chilly 21 deg C and, as it will be my first swim since last February, I predict the distance covered in the water will be relatively rapid and very, very short.

Replaced the servo motor, in temp position now, it works! Tailgate closes, and soft-close locks the tailgate, then the light on the dash (boot open) disappears . Before I put everything back together in final places, is there anything in VCDS coding that needs to be done to this module? Checked all (I think) the service manuals and this servo motor is not shown anywhere, so no idea if there is any coding/basic setting to be done? Would be good to know so I don't end up breaking the new (£132) part shortly.

That is exactly how Skoda Felicia cold starts when the owner has no obsessions and nightmares about engine oils and does not all kind of stupid experiments doomed to kill the engine. The only exception is when the outside temperature is below -10°C. The engine has a deeper, rumbling noise initially, the low oil pressure indicator goes off in a second, the idle is around 1300 rpm for a minute or two then starts to purr at 800 rpm as usual. Your car works great, Andreas.

@Gabbo on 2023 Mk3.FL Lane Assist, by default, activates only manually, by TA button on the steering wheel i managed to find coding, which activates LA automatically when 60kmh reached, browse this tread -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/516414-vcds-options-on-superb-iiifl/

@Graham Butcher I think the gadgy in the video and you might have some confusion over the property on fire. The Beach Front property. ? Is the part of the house facing the sea and the beach THE REAR OF THE PROPERTY? To me that is the Front of the property. If i have a BEACH FRONT PROPERTY i want the view from the frontage to be of the beach & water. I put the garage and entrance at the rear or side, at the access from the road, where the refuse people come, the trades people / pool cleaners etc. Maybe there is a nice Reception / Door even a FRONT DOOR, but really you are entering from the REAR. Or is that just too much confusion or lost in translation? ? Was the car destroyed?

It was tested. When camera detects reflection from any sign it will dim segment that is lightning it, so that you are not dazzled by reflection.

Thanks, my local mechanic also suggested the same. So first thing i am going to the dealer to get new oem spark plugs. Will report back. thanks

Try flashing the headlights in the normal way just before you leave the car. This is the method (once activated) for switching on coming home lights when you don't have auto lights and may give you a clue to what is happening. Coming home lights puts on the dipped beam plus sidelights front and rear and drls. The on duration is also adjustable. I use this feature frequently as there are no streetlights here and most people have a longish drive so their outsides lights are no use to me.

AFAIK there is a direct option in the software which activates the main beam in coming/leaving home function via one click app selection. You should be able to locate it upon roll the relevant option.

That "White Meter" is not a tarif in the UK. Intelligent Octopus Go gives you six hours of cheap, green energy from 11.30 pm to 5.30 am every night at a super low rate of 7.5p per kWh

I was thinking more of the models involved and the countries / regions that got even the Yaris or Yaris cross. My old iQ,s will be part of it though. Bl00dy safe vehicles with the passenger cell and 11 airbags. (If they still work and not part of that issue.) Skoda have tens of thousands of vehicles to get in and check the airbag issue with and VW Group millions.

I am very happy it was a one hour labour and he is very fair man and I trust him, any way I have Felly back and its running just great just raced a push bike up hill and won. ( sad old man I know).

When you are already parked, it will do the “unparking” manoeuvre for you. But you have to press the button first. So either you pressed the button by accident, or there is some malfunction (loose wire etc) that did it for you.

Do you not normally have to push the button first?

ABS Controller (03) is these:- ABS, ESP according to the dashboard I had low pressure in the tires, according to the dashboard Central electronics controller (09) will be this:- Rear lights (including brake lights) Blinkers (including hazard lights) Interior lighting Dashboard lighting Screen wipers Sounds like your battery has a problem..or the main earth cable from the battery to the car body

Most journeys are around 20-30 miles. Quite hilly area, and it was during a cold snap, which might explain a bit of it. And although I've been trying to drive conservatively, I have a natural tendency to have a heavy right foot. Good news is that the MPG is improving (low to mid 40's so stilp not great). Whether it is the slightly warmer weather, me adapting, the engine wearing in, or something else, I can't say.

A weak and/or under charged battery could cause this sort of thing to happen - as the battery's voltage will dip down when the starter motor is turning the engine over. VW Group call all the "computers" or "smart controllers", controllers, and there will be quite a few of them in your car, now if you had a good scan tool, like VCDS, you could check everyone of them for stored or logged fault codes - doing that might allow you to work out what was happening.

I ended up going to Johnson’s Skoda where they sold the nozzle for £7.25 so I bought a couple. The new one went on a lot tighter but the performance was a massive improvement - the increase in pressure meant that the water came out as a mist/spray. The spares bloke tried to convince me it was inferior screen wash causing the clogging up and tried to sell me 1 litre of Volkswagen concentrated screen wash for £10.

Replace the blower motor, mine did the same thing. Ignore tall stories about cleaning and oiling, it doesn't last.

Here it is

SAw this the other day, no idea what it was until today. thought it was a kitted out mini of some sort but it was a Healy Enigma

I've finally managed the size. Apparently for getting it all over the screen, you have to delete the Skoda AA widget which is 4x3 size. After I have delete the widget from the skoda infotainment system, i got the screen