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I would disagree with your mech. If the battery is exactly the same specs (type, Ah, etc.), then you should at least just change the serial number so that the BMS can know a new battery is fitted straight away - yes it will learn over a longish period but surely you want to be able to use the full capability of a new battery you've just paid $$$ for straight away? If the battery has different specs then you IMHO must tell the BMS the new specs ASAP.

Find a new tech.... As per my comment above....This applies to ALL cars with the "stop/start" eco function.... Even if the new battery is the exact same type/capacity/brand as the original factory one, you still need to alter the code line "serial number" by one digit to "tell" the BCM that a new battery has been installed & for it to forget all the old learnt values as a nice new battery has been installed.

Well changing the oil and oil filter every 10000 km does pay out !! And 2 minutes later hit the big 400000 km !!

The LED,s might well be an issue, and MATRIX headlights also. But then there are vehicles in the UK that have poorly set headlights from the factory, never checked at the PDI and maybe picked up after 3 years on the road at the first MOT.

In response to a suggestion by @Oli3000 here's a list of the issues I have experienced with my early build (registers Sept 2020) Mk4 SE L First Edition estate. I have listed the ones that I am aware that others have also experienced, and I am aware that other early models had problems I haven't (mainly 'cos my car doesn't have some options/features). Many of these have been the subject of much debate in one of more threads of this forum, details will be found in there by using the search function. I have NOT included the Infotainment Reboot issue as it is common to later build cars too, albeit fixed with software updates. If you too have an early build SE L First Edition please add any recurrent/common SEL FE issues that I have missed. KPH/MPH Speedometer could not display KPH. Selection made in settings but no change to display and not saved. SatNav could not display miles. Selection made in settings but no change to display and not saved. Eventually a solution was developed, in my case a change of Virtual Cockpit (VC) hardware and software updates. To my knowledge not all cases need a VC change; the original in my car did not have a clock at top centre, the replacement does. The speedometer being unable to display KPH is in contravention of UK regulations. Adaptive Cruise Control In general worked OK, except it would intermittently, yet often, prevent overtaking in stead of undertaking. Basically the car thought it was in driving on the right side of the road, not left; it worked absolutely fine in mainland Europe. Fixed through software updates. Note however, that the Owner Manual warns of occasions when the ACC can be confused, I’ve noticed it several times on long right hand bends - the car sees a vehicle in the nearside lane and prevents overtaking. Easily overcome by a tap go the accelerator pedal. SOS errors and false calls Several issues around this; in my case I’d get a loud ‘pop pop’ sound followed by a corruption of any [built in] SatNav directions active at the time and an alert to say an SOS call was placed - when it wasn’t! After several diagnostics visits and software updates the SOS module was replaced and it’s been fine since. ‘Favourites’ Initially neither SatNav nor Radio favourites were saved. Fixed through software updates. Auto-reconnect CarPlay For many months CarPlay would not automatically reconnect to my iPhone. Fixed through one of the many software updates Škoda Connect App Early build Mk4 cars don’t have full functionality. Cannot create a route in the phone App and send it to the car Cannot remotely Lock & Unlock the car, but can see if it is locked and windows closed. Fuel & Temperature Gauges Flickering Intermittent flickering of both gauges regardless of whether headlights are on or not. Fixed through software update.

"The RAC is calling on the Government to commission an independent study into the issue of headlight glare after new research found 85% of those affected believe the problem is getting worse." IMO some are just silly bright now. Are the manufacturers having a war to develop the most blinding light to ever be created? https://media.rac.co.uk/pressreleases/a-glaring-problem-rac-calls-for-action-on-headlight-glare-as-eight-in-10-drivers-affected-say-problem-is-getting-worse-3296130

Definitely getting worse. Lots and lots of LED replacement 'bulbs' available and lots and lots of people too selfish and/or unintelligent to know they cause problems for everyone except themselves.

Does this mean program and register the oil pressure regulator valve, or the new EFB battery or both? I can't see the point of a tech fitting a new battery and having an appropriate scan tool for the job and not doing at least changing the serial number and it would be good if he gave you a report of the car as it is when he first scanned it showing battery details and all error codes and then another report after he 'codes' for the new battery and has deleted all error codes that will delete. There was a chap with another model who despite having an appropriate scan tool left the battery change and coding to a professional auto-electrician and months later was on the forum because of battery and other problems and he followed the suggestion of checking the battery 'coding' to find the professional auto-electrician had made the mistake of entering 7 Ah instead of 70 Ah (why the computer program allowed this is another mistake to me). The chap fitted a new battery and 'coded' it himself and his problems went away. I am not saying that all your problems, or possibly any of them, are now related to the battery 'coding' because I and others can't see the information or known what the tech has fully done or not done and you might have more than one issue with the car but personally I would want to be shown or emailed a a scan report showing the present battery coding and preferably also a scan report from the first scan as we can all make mistakes and I see no reason why a tech should not give you such information. It should be saved on his machine particularly if his repairs and (hopefully) diagnosis is ongoing. A scan tool is another diagnosis tool that gives information that needs to be interpreted, it can sometimes point directly at the origin of a problem, as perhaps here, or present information for the tech to asses and diagnosis what the problem might be. Again I am not saying the following is the case here just general info for you, some people just shoot the massager and change the part that gives bad news show on the scan tool. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

I've just created a topic which gives a summary of the issues, to the best of my knowledge, which affect my, and other, early build SE L First `editions.

I purchased SEL FIrst Edition in October 2023. Initially had lots of issues with Infotainment system and SOS module. Got a Dealership to update to software version 1941 and also update the SOS module firmware and, since then, it’s all been good. The trouble is, I believe, these modern cars have multiple ECU’s for different functionality that all have their own firmware. It’s not always just a simple software update of the Infotainment system that is required but also relevant firmware updates of individual ECU’s which I think only the dealers can do and then only if you are having specific issues with that function. Flip side is hardware replacement is not always necessary (they also won”t replace hardware without you actually having an issue and even then they would initially see if a firmware update solves problem), My advice, make absolutely sure that any Skoda you purchase is updated to Infotainment software version 1941prior to purchase. Check the warranty that comes with the car includes software - whilst my Škoda came with Škoda Approved Used Car warranty the updates I got done were done under the original 3 Year manufacturer warranty. If you do have to deal with Dealership be as clued up as you can be - I went with comprehensive list of issues, a printout of what I believed was the relevant TSI document Skoda had issued and my expectations of what work I required doing. Saying all this it’s a great car, nice to get the extras that they bundled with the First Edition (I also got leather seats) and am overall very pleased with the purchase.

I always do, saves expecting someone else to do it for you

ALL stop/start systems require either an EFB or an AGM battery....Bosch/Varta are the best & actually the same company.... Varta who make some of the batteries for VAG confirmed that standard battery case sizes are used to make the VAG factory batteries, but that the Ah capacities are “special” to VAG for those case sizes. Basically, VAG are confusing us to make sure we end up buying a direct replacement battery from them when in fact a standard battery which is available from any auto parts supplier will fit & do the job!! You also need to code the BCM.... ALL info on battery types & coding in my thread on this other forum:- How to retro-fit a bigger capacity battery to a Mk7 Golf | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum E.F.B. (Enhanced Flooded Battery):- These usually have two times (x2) the cycle starts compared to a standard battery. They are still a standard lead acid battery (hybrid version), so cannot be held upside down & will leak if the case is broken. Basically, the car industry wanted a cheaper version of the AGM battery for the Stop-Start engine technology. EFB is the result! A.G.M. (Absorbent Glass Mat) batteries:- These were fitted to the early Stop/Start (BlueMotion) systems, & usually have three times (x3) the cycle starts compared to a standard lead acid battery. In these the liquids have been absorbed by a framework of glass fibre mats. There is no liquid to move around, so they can be held upside down, & are leakproof if the case is broken! These are the safest in a crash which is why they have been used in racing/rallying for years! Unfortunately, they can be more prone to heat damage (see below on heat shield) than the other types of battery, & they are more expensive! These batteries require specific battery chargers/conditions that will work with AGM batteries. VCDS coding required From the Main screen:- Select Control Module [Select] [19-CAN Gateway] Advanced Functions screen:- [Adaptions-10] New value choice screen:- Change the following four channels, inputting the relevant data about the new battery. IDE03256-MAS06105-Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology IDE03256-MAS06107-Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer IDE03256-MAS06108-Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number When you click on "Battery technology" (using VCDS 21.3.0) a drop down list appears with the following options (= actual meaning):- Wet = Standard Lead Acid Fleece = Standard A.G.M. Wickel6V Wickel12V Ultracap Gel = Standard Gel Lead Acid Lithium ions = Standard LiFePO4 EFB = Standard E.F.B. Binary - AGM = "Bipolar" A.G.M. type EFB+ = E.F.B. "Plus" type Not_assigned_10 Not_assigned_11 Not_assigned_12 Not_assigned_13 Not_assigned_14 Unknown According to various sources of information, including numerous car scans & threads on Ross-Tech, "Fleece" is for standard AGM batteries, "EFB" is for standard EFB batteries, & "Wet" is for standard lead acid batteries, as these settings are used at the factory. The setting of "Binary - AGM" is apparently for specialist "Bipolar AGM" batteries! Also the drop down list is from VCDS & not generated by your car's BCM, therefore, your car may not support all the options on the list, & the BCM will reject the value when you tell it to accept it! Battery BEM codes are now redundant with the above separate channels. The most important channels are:- Rated battery capacity, Battery technology, & Battery Serial Number. For the Battery Serial Number, just change one digit of the old one. This channel tells the BCM that a new battery has been installed & to relearn the new battery & forget any “learnt values” for the old battery!

My understanding of your post is that you seem to believe that the cost of insurance is only based upon the value of repairing your car if it has an accident and that people who have EVs should be solely responsible for the fact that their car is more expensive to repair even if they have a non-fault accident. As the overall value of cars on the road increases everyone's insurance costs will rise do you not see that? (ICE is an Internal Combustion Engine. EV is an Electric vehicle.)

Hey. Just wanted to thank you. Lately I've been noticing that rattling/vibration sound at 2K rpm in the right door area of my 2015 vRS, but couldnt pinpoint where it was coming from, until i found your post. I just unscrewed the outer endge nuts od the plastic bottom so i could "bend" it down and reach the frame where the fule lines are and stuffed the frame with four dishwashing sponges through the cutouts on the frame. That solved the "car is falling apart" sound and made me happy ☺️.

It’s nothing to do with having accidents with non electric cars. Where do you get that idea from? It’s to do with insurance costs increasing because of the repair costs of electric cars.

How could it be possible to insure your car against only having accidents with non electric cars?

I wasn't making that mistake. Fitted it in the boot now. Just need the polystyrene for the back but the nets do a good job of making it all look perfect.

i think the BCM needs to be 089 or 090 you need to check it your BCM has a pin for the MFWS comunication - big plug with 73 pins, pin nr 13

Looks like people focus on software a lot, since all the issues listed above are software related. Id' like to point out that hardware may very well fail, too. On my 11.2020 iV I have squeaking brake pads, both front left and back left shock absorbers died at around 40,000km, some guides in the trunk door were changed to resolve rattle issue. Issues with brakes with unidentified cause, but may be well related to ABS sensors. Electric motor whistles a lot sometimes, though Skoda doesn't want to admit it is an issue. Something rattles when the engine is cold and idling. Perhaps something else I already forgot about... anyway, my point is, better to have ok warranty if taking one of those early cars, and definitely it is a must to verify if all service campaigns were done and all firmwares were updated, too. Otherwise, you may get a bunch of other issues, like comms module failing, 12V battery draining during the night and stuff like that.

Or you could just switch it off, I suppose.

In your part of the world you get auxiliary heating. That apparently is left off the Seat app. So where people in East Europe have fitted it themselves on Seats using Vag parts they can't access it remotely. Probably in Seat's Spain it wasn't planned as a remote access option. Where Skoda envy comes in from one Seat poster. I can see with EVs on a cold day you switch on the AC before going out to the car. People are managing to do that with Seats on hybrids / EVs, that's fitted to remote access. Pre-decing before you get in 👍. You'll be able to do your bi-annual navigation map upgrade on mib3 until they stop that. Probably doesn't cost them that much money to turn Here Maps data into the mapping upload. They would just be paying Here Maps a license fee as long as its not on a unit basis, it's just their internal / contracted out processing. Reckon they would keep the 5 years on that.

i don't expect it, newer nowadays means less functionality for extra fee this year abonement i'll pay not for maps, but for remote access to Auxiliary heater haven't checked price yet

I have recently had the same problem,on my 6Y5 it is the OSR door leaking and wetting the carpet in the footwell.It doesn’t feel wet until you press hard down on the carpet and the wetness seeps through.I have the sealant to fix it,but it is a bit too cold for me at the moment 😂

Yeah I agree to that big time. Burning LPG is probably a better method to make a carburetted car cleaner than slapping an EGR on it, It was one of the first things I did to this car after carb rebuild, to deactivate the EGR. Back then i just disconnected the vacuum hoses from it as it seemed to be stuck close. Now It was properly removed and exhaust port closed with an oil plug. (I got lucky, it's the same thread, 16x1.5) Regarding manuals, I agree with you chaps, whenever I can I collect more of them. I love the ability to have the book open right next to the car and look into it. Used to have an old tablet for repair manuals in the workshop but it'd finally given up the fight. For the Felicia I have some great pdfs downloaded (even some body repair manual in Czech, that would tell me how to build a Felicia from a few squaremeters of salvaged corrugated garage doors. ) I used to have a Polish edition of a repair manual for Felicia but it was just horrible. Now I'm stuck with the pdfs, so every time I forget some torque or other detail, it's a jog back to the house where I keep the computer. (gotta repair that bloody old laptop and have it in the garage) No developments now on the Saab front... We are experiencing proper winter now. I have not seen the gauge go down below -20 since 2010, but yesterday morning it was -27. In the garage I have -8 right now. Yesterday tried to work on my bike (making heated grips if you ask) and after an hour or so just gave it up. Let's say it's uncomfortable. With EGR removed, vacuum lines sorted and with proper plugs it fired up properly a few days ago. Any kind of road testing will have to wait till the big freeze moves on. Thanks a lot for ideas and help regarding this and also for the flexibility shown (Saab vs Skoda) .

Well … I've using it for quite a long time now and only to clean rims. Of course I am not using it every wash, but six months I would say it's excessive as a time period for that particular application. The average in my case I would say is 1,5 months and always respecting user manual, specially what's related to temperature and exposition to sun when applying. And so far so good, for both rims and brake calipers paint coating.

Ok, just asking, as sometimes simple solutions are the best ones Considering it's both front and rear, i would say it's probably not related to light units. Could be indicators switch, one of the computers or anything else. Strange issue, so hard to say what it might be.

The battery is one aspect of the electrical system. Is the alternator giving enough output? If your battery voltage is dipping down it can cause all manner of warning lights to illuminate. I experienced this once. Also check the battery terminals and earth strap are clean and conducting well.

This topic is about Koni rebuild, for almost 30 years here we buy Koni because they are good quality and they are repairable. Koni has experienced engineers and takes tons of feedback from testers-Racing drivers, does not need the opinion of a banana farmer. A student with no working experience at all can not (no matter how hard he tries) cancel the products of a world famous company, this reminds my some students which publish again and again studies about car accessoires (how dangerous are, what kind of damage they produce etc) but when finally get a job in a company automatically shout their mouth and forget everything ! So, must i reverse the whole procedure in my car and remove everything extra only because a kid and his puppy only chatter paraphilology by collusion? @nta16 : The MOT official is an engineer, when the student above hired in a MOT centre do you really believe that will ''cancel'' a car because has after market suspension and lowering springs? NO.

I was thinking maybe this will help. Buying 3 faraday pouches or 2 for the ones you don't use for the purpose of not only blocking the signal so that the 2 other fobs are not constantly sending out signals that may be picked up from the vehicle nearby as well to prevent thieves from stealing your fob signal and making their own

Hope this helps. I believe it's the last instruction

TMC is only the UK and France as far as I know. Going to become more clear I reckon when they put a weblink to the mib2 high map and not mib2 standard - are they waiting for the mib2 standard one to come out of QA. If no link to either then it would appear they have done their discontinued + 5 years calculation for the mib2 standard and high but as Pcbbc said it should run on longer for the Audi TT in mib2 high form. We'll see.

Yes 👍 Haha the old ash trays. Had coins in them mostly lol 😆 I agree. That's what i was using just haven't done it for a while now. Thanks, yes i have 3 microfibre wands or cloths at home. Just didn't bother bringing one with me on the trip. Can always pop into one locally and buy one

I had a problem with the rear courtesy lights, they would randomly turn on and off whilst I was driving, as though Casper was in the back fiddling with them😉. Following diagnostics the dealer swapped the light unit and been ok since. IIRC, it was worse in sub-zero temperatures.

Hi Rooted Rang them this afternoon after seeing your post but they can't even look at it til 17th so I took it to my man at Auto Installs. See my response to Linni for the outcome! This thing is growing arms and legs...

Just an update, changed the sensor. I would recommend keeping the little red covers and using them on the new wires into the connector plug as long as they haven't been burnt. I was advised that the iCarsoft VAWS V3.0 has the option to calibrate the sensor saving me buying the OBDeleven NextGen. I have driven 70 miles since and all good so far. Hopefully this will be of help to somebody on here.

Glorious sky tonight - hand held only though (too cold to linger with the tripod 🥶).

These are the areas that need attention. Both sills need rubbing down, treating and painting and the wheels could do with a refurb. But just look at it though. won't take much to sort out the aesthetics.

g7eor - my garage said nothing like this but Googling 'coolant loss after water pump replacement' brings up a host of hits. Looks like an air lock is possible so will check this out too when the coolant I've ordered arrives Thanks

It sure is 👍

I'm very happy with my Enyaq, I've been lucky enough to have some fairly decent cars over the years,( Audi's, VW's, BMW's, Mercedes) but this is the best............. .

ordered 4 (fitting on Saturday), as you have to change them all otherwise theres no benefit plus it can be dangerous

Hi You could probably drive a mile in cold weather from a cold start with no coolant at all, though I wouldn't recommend it ! I suspect you still have most of your coolant in the system, try squeezing the large radiator hoses - the "feel" will tell you if there is air or coolant inside. If still mostly full I suggest as above that you top up with the correct stuff and then use the car but keep a frequent eye on the expansion tank level and the temperature gauge. Coolant often contains a dye to help with leak tracing, can you see any pink residue around hose joints etc ? I think gasket failure is unlikely, and you would detect a misfire/lack of performance. When the original alarm went off, what was the temperature gauge showing (if you can remember) ? It's possible that the thermostat is not opening fully and restricting the maximum flow to the radiator. Maximum flow is only needed when the thermal load is high e.g. motorway driving. One failure mechanism of a wax capsule thermostat is that it loses some of its wax and then doesn't open fully. This probably won't trigger any fault codes. Clearly something triggered the original overheat alarm and it would be good to get to the bottom of that even if things seem OK now. If you ever find yourself in an overheat situation where you can't pull over promptly, it's a good idea to put the heater on maximum and use full fan assistance to take the water temperature down until you can stop safely.

I apologise, now having read quite a number of posts it appears that a lot of the questions can be answered by people actually reading the little book that came with the vehicle, Commonly called User Manual.

If it has had a new cam belt and water pump, the coolant would have been drained. It could just be the coolant finding it’s level after being re filled and any air bubbles released. I would fill to correct level and monitor closely for a few days.

Update: So far so good, no problem after all these months, many times checked and no leaks at all. Till the next radiator change i will leave it as is, "nothing more permanently than the temporary" as we say here.

The first three characters in a VW part number indicate what car platform it fits. So you might have the same part that fits on different car platforms. EG '1S0' indicate the Skoda Citigo, VW UP and Seat MI platform. HTH Thanks. AG Falco

Well, when it comes to VW Skoda Audi dault codes I am not convinced...sometimes things just happen without a probable cause. But yeah, it should flag a code of some sort. Would be wise to just disconnect all temp sensor and measure them. Or maybe check for leaks og any pins broken etc. It is at least free of charge 😅

May be able to read a part number off it? Possibly 1T0145790B?

I've not seen that exact problem, but although I agree it's a great function on a cold day I find it rarely works first thing in the morning. It usually fails with a "couldn't connect" error, which leads me to suspect that Skoda's servers aren't able to keep up with the demand at peak times. A function which only works when you don't need it is pretty useless 😒

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