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Cycle that by me one time more, I needed to hear with frequency to get it.

For your own peace of mind I would say get a proper assessment for any damage - it's too late three months down the road to find out something not visible to you was damaged or put out of align.ment as then the cost of fixing it will be down to you. If it was 100% the teenager's fault - not looking/driving too close - rear end shunt I'm inclined to agree with Prezafab and Rooted that not telling your insurer could cause you problems if there is hidden damage or, worse, there's damage and the teenager's hasn't got insurance. Others may be able to advise whether it's worth reporting to the police in case of the insurance issue.

Thanks Johan the robot.

Chilly today 🥶

Don't think this is a Winter tyre? No TPMSS? https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/headway/hu901/ Thanks. AG Falco

No worries about whiplash scams if you were hit from behind, it will be him or his parents with that worry. You have already now sought bodyshop advice, I did not see Mikes request for info till now, but for anyone else in the same situation the first thing to do is remove the boot carpet and spare wheel, if it won't come out then it speaks for itself 😃if it does then look at the boot floor to either side of it and the inside of the rear panel. There is a very substantial impact beam behind the bumper, if the plastic bumper is removed it can be inspected but if the outer cover is only scuffed and the bootfloor straight then its likely to be fine, its very cheap to replace if it isn't, lots of good second hand ones available from towbar fitters. I'm glad to hear that you are extending the option to the young man to not go through insurance, if you really cannot see any visible damage without careful scrutiny then why not make him an offer to recieve a reduced sum? A new bumper with prep, paint and fitting will be a lot of money, if he cannot afford it and has to go through insurance it will end up costing him many times that and your insurance will go up also, I know it shouldn't, you probably have protected NCB and its not your fault but just read around for what has happened to everybody else in that situation. Your insurer like most others may hit you with a huge increase at renewal even without any knowledge of this accrochage but if no claim has been made or accident reported you will at least be free to shop around for a better quote.

There are 3 positions of the interior light switch; on, off and on with open door - have you tried all 3 positions?

Surely the first thing anyone in this position would do would be to check the Motor Insurance Databas (MID). If the teenager was insured then options are available as described above and if the teenager wasn't insured then a different course of action needs to be followed and the options and implications are a bit different. I'd have thought that to be obvious. But the OP must surely know all this. There can't be anyone who doesn't know that reporting any sort of incident or collision has repercussions for you come renewal time. Unless you get really lucky the moment your head pops up above the insurance company's parapet the contents of your wallet will be in jeopardy. The above reference to post-accident discovery that witnesses appear from nowhere or that whiplash inexplicably afflicts one or more of the teenager's passengers (whether or not the passengers were seemingly present at the time of the accident) is to be borne in mind at all times. Youtube will provide examples in case anyone is in any doubt, It's possible the teenager is as honest as the day is long and that anyone advising or supporting them will tell him/her to do the right thing .... but there's a saying about pigs and their ability to engage in air travel.. I have a front facing camera on when driving, but not a rear facing one ... ideally we would all have one coz they can save all manner of arguments in such circumstances.

lol @ the irony of Hertz getting rid of EVs. One a second?

The battery management system only charges the battery to around 80%, to allow headroom for the micro-regenerative braking system to put charge into the battery when coasting or braking.

Sounds like the Octavia suffers from the similar bad reflector design like the Roomster did.....however when everybody else has Xenons & LED lights, halogens pale (literally) by comparison. In the UK for dipped & main beam you have to keep the exact bulb type for the reflector (as per lighting regs & MOT)...so your reflector is for Halogens...so you have to fit halogens...you can't fit LED (drop-ins) for those bulbs, but you can for all other external bulbs! Looks like H7 for dipped & H15 for main. Selection of H7 here, I only use Osram or Phillips:- H7 Bulbs | Upgrade Car, Van & Motorcycle H7 Bulbs (autobulbsdirect.co.uk) Osram Night Breaker in +100% has a 1yr warranty.....their 150%+ & 200%+ only have a 6month warranty ...all three are road legal... Phillips do several bulbs...again in 100+ or 200%+ Powerbulbs also has them:- Sale On Now I PowerBulbs UK Ignore the LED drop ins...you'll get pulled on your next MOT as not road legal in UK for dipped/main beam...

@chli @vegarz @ace_finland with the B201A error, u need to generate a code, using an XOR Calculator. This is generated based on your existing adaption value (Step #1), in combination with the decryption key, which in turn generates a new Key (Step #2) for you to enter (Step #3). below is a screenshot from a how-to document i created, which contains the steps to fix the B201A error.

Couple of weeks ago.

I didn't code my new battery first of all, as I had no way of doing it. I monitored the charging rate and it was putting in loads of juice, as it thought it was the old battery still. I recoded a day later (ordered OBDeleven) and then the car started to throttle the charging rate.

I don't know the answer ( can take an educated guess tho ) but if someone doesn't read the T&C and simply assumes, then they have no room for complaint. A little story which echos of the above: I bought a new Volvo V50 when they first appeared in the UK. A few days later travelled from Scotland to Manchester where the car came up with a fault saying do not drive. Long story short, Volvo assistance ( the AA ) supplied me with a rental car and the AA returned the car to Scotland on a low loader. They contracted out a local recovery firm to return the car. We went round the car with a fine tooth comb noting everything - and I mean everything. There was a hair line scratch on an alloy that I never saw until it was pointed out to me that got noted down. We signed the damage sheet and the car was handed over. Four days later I received a call to say the car was ready to collect. When I saw the car I noticed the rear wheel arch had a big bash in it so went to back in to the dealership. ( Arnold Clark - say no more! ) "We don't know anything about it." "Well what about the damage report when you accepted the car?" "We didn't do a damage report. We didn't actually accept the car, we didn't even know about it, we just turned up for work and there it was, parked next to the barrier". The keys were posted thru the letter box, not even a note. We called Volvo and they told us the story." The damage was such it looked like a crow bar had been used to release the straps that held the wheel on to the low loader. Looks like they tried to prise the strap loose, the bar slipped and it hit up and underneath the wheel arch. So I contacted the delivery firm... "We delivered the car at 4am" "err, what about the damage report? When collecting the car we did a comprehensive damage report then signed an agreement, so I expect the same when you hand the car over?" "There was nobody there so we did the report ourselves" "You did the report yourself !! Nobody to confirm it? 4am on a foul February morning in Scotland... How could anyone conduct a damage report in the dark in high wind and pi55hing rain?" "It was probably vandals" "Vandals? Vandals break windows and damage doors and steel things from inside the car, are you telling me the vandal bend down on his knee with a crow bar and hit underneath the wheel arch? The car was YOUR property, YOU had an obligation to make sure it was handed over properly in the same state you received it?" "Best contact a lawyer" came the reply! If that guy was standing opposite me, I'd probably have punched him at that stage. So I first contacted Volvo assistance. They said it was between me and the the AA. "But my contract is with you". Ended up contacting the AA, they didn't want to know either. So I contacted the legal assistance arm of my insurer and their advice was it would be too expensive to take the company to court, in a case where they thought I'd loose !!! I simply can't believe it. I could have taken them to court myself but same scenario, it's an expensive game if you loose; it's much easier paying £100 excess. The one thing I learned from that experience is never to take out legal assistance on my insurance because they're not interested unless the case is 100% win and there's money in it for themselves. If it's that obvious then I don't need anyone to act on my behalf. So in summary, if the garage want to play the 'computer says no' game, then basically you're stuffed. You can take all the advice in the world but even if that advice is you'll 'probably' win, that means there's a chance you may not. That JLR garage? Under normal circumstances it'd be a public relations disaster for JLR to tell those claimants to feck off, but their typical clientel are so stupid, they'd still buy a JLR product without hesitation. Those owners have been shafted IMO yet I bet most of them will go straight back out and buy another JLR product because it makes them feel superior. ****s. They'll probably have to leave their next car at a dealership when it break down. No wonder folk are having trouble finding insurers who'll insure their Range Rover.

I had loads of issues with intelligent octopus and charging. Subsequently the preheat never worked as it does on plain charging. I've since turned the smart charge bit off and have it timed as per the in car system. Pre heat too. Not sure how the VW and Skoda systems differ but the base functions should be the same.....in theory.

This is ritual magic, not science and engineering! Gearbox oil cannot get diluted or contaminated, it doesn't oxidise or get thicker either it just sits there getting lightly splashed about. The level only drops if there's a leak somewhere, usually the the input shaft oil seal if the bearing starts to fail. You guys are just inventing a reality to suit your beliefs, gearbox oil USED to be terrible back in the bad old days before synthetics, it hasn't been like that for a long time which is why VW say lifetime fill.

Yes, the same here, 25" for driver`s side. However this size is available only from Skoda, so the options are 24" or 26". I find 26" clears more of the surface of the windscreen. Been using them for years. P.S. Bosch wipers work excellent in frost. The original ones tend to freeze, become stiff (even if you clean them or work with anti ice stuff) and degrees below 5 celsius do not work at all. Engineering fault - too many tiny channels which gather moisture / ice.

Modern synthetic lubricants do not change like that over time, if your gearbox is getting 'baulky' this could be a sign that the oil level has dropped, simply topping it up will fix the problem unless the synchro rings are worn in which case nothing will replace the missing metal and any improvement will be through the placebo effect.

H7 is the dipped, & the one that gets the most usage, thats why I just suggested that... I would also check if you have any self levelling, or dial levelling to control the headlight level..I know my old MK1 Fabia had dial levelling (dial next to dash brightness dial)....self levelling is usually on Xenons I know....as the levelling sensor can seize & the BCM just points the headlights at max "down" as a safety fault...

Just get Bosch Aerotwins they work great and are far better than OE ones

If you remember any details from your old login, email, username, etc. Let me know and I'll try to sort it out for you. Welcome back.

I tried it, made no difference. when the weather improves I'll be applying gtechniq to my windows, best product I've used over the years. Gives me around 12 months protection, don't need wipers when travelling over 40mph!

Grease will hold road and other debris, silicone is considered by some as not good on paint. Lubricate hinges and lots of other stuff with GT85 it has PTFE instead of grease (forget WD-40 Multi-Use use GT85 instead. GT85 was formerly a British company now owned by an American company called WD-40 Company.

Yeah I've tried that with silicone grease previously but its didn't really seem to fix the issue, just make it occur a bit less frequently. Cutting the wings or lugs off the pinion/shaft has done the trick as a temporary fix - the flap can be opened whether the car is locked or unlocked and whether the solenoid has actuated or not, so at least I shouldn't end up in a position where im out of fuel and unable to get access to the filler, until I get around to replacing it with a new one. Cheers

Castrol EDGE 0W-20 LL IV Engine... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C814ZDG5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I now think I have found the definitive answer to my question. My engine takes Castro edge 0w 20 vw508 . I have checked this with multiple sources including Škoda and castrol and have purchased 4ltrs on Amazon in their sale for £33 instead of the usual £63.

True, there was a post there, I posted in then, but at that point it was assumed that dealer's insurance would cover the cars. When it became apparent that was not the case I thought that maybe it was better in the insurance section because the same applies to all cars and not just EV's.

Octopus now have Dragon and another one I forget have joined the massive Electoverse ie Octopus's large and growing network. Pre payment, do not even pay anything at the time of charging, net it off on my monthly household bill. MacMaster you muppet. Oh and I get a discount from 5 to 20% on the cost.

It's hard to say. If it does it once or twice more I'd definitely get it checked. But there's no magic number of times.

Looks awesome 😎 - i'm counting down the days until I get mine (also moon white, but estate)

What's really nice is hearing you reminisce on some of the challenges you've gone through, and remembering you going through them at the time. They'll be in this thread somewhere as well. When I inherited a 1989 Mk2 Golf GTI 16v in 2002, it had an aftermarket exhaust on it. Can't remember the make, but it was a well known brand. Once you got to 50mph there was a god awful resonance that no one in their right mind could live with. That first drive after installing a new OEM system was just bliss. Watching you sat in the shade in nice wicker chairs in front of rusty. It's currently -1°C in the South East UK 🥶 Gaz

There was the many posts about this already, was it in the EV section? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/518128-land-roverjaguar-dealer-inchcape-in-derby-flooded Then there was the Member who was told that the technician was not insured to road test cars. That thread could be in any section.

Thanks Warrior and sepulchrave for your replies. I'm fairly sure the readings used are degrees of arc. Regarding the printout, one of the front tyres measurements is indicated in green (no doubt within the allowed specification), the other in red. Unfortunately I don't have the sheet with me at the moment so can't say which is which but i'll check later. Your explanations are much appreciated, so thanks once again.

Years back when I was tinkering at making my own bike lights there was a growing movement to include a small red light as part of the system. Due to the high blue content of modern LEDs, the red added in massively improves the contrast and brings out the greens and browns in foliage, etc. I'm not suggesting we all go chucking red lights on the front of the car but there is definitely a move towards brighter instead of better. I try to keep my headlights clean and also aligned correctly. As above, you should not be using fog lights in normal conditions.

Yeah, it's a personal preference. I had a sedan for 13 years without a rear wiper and have never missed it. The rear window was pretty clean for most of the time.

Thanks TheUltraRunner, it may look sleeker without but I'd rather have it. I've no idea if it's standard or not in the UK!

Hi there, I was wondering how you got on with fixing this issue? I am currently experiencing the very same issue with my Skoda Superb however my local dealership have been unsuccessful in finding any faults. Im at a complete loss! I had the fire brigade at my home because we were so worried about the amount of petrol that was leaking out onto the road yet the dealership claim it hasn’t leaked once since it’s been in their possession for the last week. They have run various tests and can find no faults. Any insights would be much appreciated, thank you!

Looking nice 😎

Thanks for the replies. Sorry - still learning everything! Did not realise I could put on sidelights without DRL's. I have also installed a laser parking pointer a few years ago and will reposition it on the drivers side to line up withe the bonnet/wing gap if I canot get to see the mirror more easily. (ATM trying to rip old CD's into FLAC formatso I can play them fron USB Stick!) Peter H!

Look at the diagram, there's a 10-way connector "on left in luggage compartment".

Thanks for your reply s I've now bought the skoda octavia se technology and very happy with the car

I made a similar replacement in my Octavia TDI. Varta AGM 68Ah battery replaced with a Varta Silver dynamic 70Ah battery. I didn't make any coding changes or connect any diagnostic tools. I've not had any issues & everything has been fine since the first start with the new battery. Stop start worked immediately & my car has been for a service and timing belt change during the year since without any problems or issues flagged by the garage. In my opinion recoding is only necessary is you change the type AGM to EFB or vice versa or if you fit a hugely different size.

This is just how it is getting in more areas / regions of Scotland. Large amounts of Money spent by Councils from Tax Payers money going to SWARCO / e-Volt and Boyd Brothers and consultants and others. Too expensive and just not getting used. Now there are commercial charging at the same cost and sometimes less. Anyone hiring EV,s at the Airport and that have to return the cars with 75% charge might not even be able to do that near the airport before return or are paying this sort of price. Above Glasgow is the huge Whitelees Windfarm and generating electricity in Scotland is so easy, storing it not so and it is exported and these are the crazy tariffs for charging.

A few from earlier @ Idle Valley ............

Update on this, I heard yesterday that my build date is week 7. So that was just under 8 weeks from order to confirmation, and 14 weeks from order to build.

Changing gearbox oil is completely unnecessary. However since you seem 'emotionally' determined there is a threaded plug on the side of the gearbox which serves both as a filling point as well as a level guide, basically you put oil in until it comes back out, then replace the plug. Topping up is all you need to do since the oil that is already in it will be perfectly usable. It's been mentioned on here so many times it's tedious but gearbox oil does not 'age' and 'go off' because it's in a sealed environment inside the gearbox, it doesn't get pumped, hot or contaminated, it just splashes about a bit, any fine metallic particles simply sink to the bottom where they remain undisturbed in perpetuity. Old gearbox oil is just as effective a lubricant as new gearbox oil.

This is probably why, they are prone to water ingress. Mine was jamming more and more over the last few weeks. Cleaned mine all up and regressed, as the motor was still ok. All working for now.