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Another one from yesterday’s trip, stopped off at Wisley for an hour or two en route to Canary Wharf. This little chap (or chap-ess) joined us for lunch 😊

Last upgrade I've converted MIB2 -> MIB2.5 and replace 8" display to 9.2"

New 600mm lense arrived today birrhday gift from the missis ,just need some good light now 😁

Glorious sky on the way home earlier

Why do you think that because you found something hot in your engine, that this is the cause of overheating? Exhaust bits get extremely hot. This is normal.

Sent via PM. Guys you need to tag me if you want a link as I don;t have time to follow forum on regular basis... I drop me a PM.

Is that the Sigma? I had an early Tamron version of that length (150-600mm), but sold it in the end as it was a bit too much for me. I don't do birds or wildlife. Bet you will have a lot of fun with it I feel moon photos (the lunar type) coming very shortly

My 1.5 TSi is on 101k. I booked with Henry’s Skoda to get it done early as it’s a taxi at a cost of £995. Then I cancelled as I just can’t afford that just now. It will need to wait until at least 120k now but I’ve found a garage that has the special tool that do it for £650.

Hi I attach the self study program SSP070 for Skoda. Also, you can find some Haldex schematics here: https://www.vdveer-engineering.nl/en/information/haldex-4motion/haldex-schematics I attach a PDF of the one for the Golf 7, it's in German. Note that TSAA is the connector for the 4WD unit, and 197 is the Ground Connection in the Rear Wiring Harness. So the unit should be grounded via this wire (br = Brown, 0.75 square mm cross-section). It should not be necessary to add any extra ground wires. Another thicker brown wire goes from here to Point 6, the Ground point on the rear left frame. I suggest you check out both these wires carefully for corrosion etc. Power comes from one Fuse via a Red and White wire of 0.75 square mm, Fuse number depends on the year for this example. There are three thinner control/data wires which go the unit marked J533, the diagnostic interface to the data bus. Your vehicle may differ in detail, but I would be suprised if it is very much different. SSP 070 All-wheel drive with Haldex coupling Generation IV.pdf

I’m getting 22-23 in the cold weather this week on our 2016 280 but my commute is tiny, just 2 miles in each direction, which is about the same as the wife’s 2003 2.0 Focus! During the summer I get 24-26 on the same journey. On a decent 200 mile drive I’ve had around 35-37 and I did once get 39 on a 300 mile drive, but that involved long stretches of 50mph roadworks on the M6.

This may depend on where you live. I switched to petrol partly because of the anti-dieselattitude that seems to prevail, and partly due to the issues that many owners of other brands have had with Adblue systems and DPFs blocking. Petrol is cheaper, but you get fewer miles per gallon. At current UK prices, if you have a petrol car that does 40mpg, a diesel car needs to be able to do ~48 mpg to break even. If you live on the continent, where diesel seem to be significantly cheaper, that may make diesel a lot more favourable. I drove diesels for many years and I prefered how they drove, but I haven't regretted going to petrol.

It might well be that there is internal resistance on the metal prongs in the header tank. A new tank isn't expensive, so maybe try that as an option.

Around town I used to get between 25 and 30 mpg, once or twice I think I managed 40mpg on long motorway runs driving very sensibly but usually got between 35 and 40mpg.

Original post says that the battery has already been replaced

Have you had your battery checked? A lot of weird things can be caused by a duff or failing one.

A few photos from a very chilly Clumber Park this afternoon 🥶

Do a search for diesel overheating. Loads of info on it. The end result will usually be a new water pump and most people do the cambelt too.

Good luck! 🤞

No, every day the day Cold start is different than night one. In the morning the air is colder. Out in the street (day) and in the same parking lot (underground) at night. No, clutch pressed 2-3 seconds while the engine cranks, then released (Neutral speed). Parking light On, for video only otherwise nobody could see the gauges. Different days, nonetheless every day Cold start is not the same as night's. With previous oils every Cold start was the same, for example with 15W-50 every one was rough, with Motul 10W-40 every one was like the Night (1100 rpm). Although weird phenomenon to have 2 kinds of Cold start the only positive thing is that the City fuel consumption is improved a bit but only when i wait 1 minute before i go, if i make the ''crank and go'' system then rise a bit as the old days.

Thanks. All is well re. both discount and part-ex negotiations. This is the only puzzle. If it is an undeclared “admin fee” it will be getting removed from the order/invoice without delay!

Really this 'Most people' nonsense needs to get some fact behind it. Even if more than half of people do charge at home. The UK figures for Drive Ways or Off road parking are very possibly rubbish or might be the percentage of those with an EV who have a driveway or off road parking. Those that are just running around the area of their home chargers and charging just there is fair enough, but really there are many many EV,s being charged away from the Home Address or the Work Address and that can be on AC or DC and the cost is now getting to be more than Petrol or Diesel costs for private drivers. Some public EV charging is double the cost per mile of running a similar size ICE vehicle to the EV.

With VCDS you can see the percentage of engagement of the Haldex while you are driving (in a safe place) or by graphing using live data but I could never work out how to do the latter. It is very revealing to see when and under what circumstances it kicks in and even when engaged it momentarily disengages periodically to prevent any transmission wind up. If you can do that in OBD11 then I would look and see if it is being commanded at the times you percieve it not to be working when it should, if it is then it will be a mechanical or electro-mechanical problem, if it isn't then you start looking at other sensor inputs that would inhibit it, I cant think of any other than the obvious wheel speed sensors but it would be a case of the software being written so that the Haldex cannot be commanded when the handbrake is engaged for example, and by chance that is a good example because it is a real one!

As I do not want to go back through pages can you please explain what you are talking about as it makes no sense in relation to what you quoted from someones post of over 10years ago.

My car has oil check / change a couple of weeks ago and as well as checking infotainment SW version, they fitted the engine cover.

Daylight running lights of course. To stop them using the indicator/dip-switch, pull it towards you and then upwards. Hold it there and switch on the ignition, there should be an audible bleep and after that they only come on when you select the light switch.

Appreciate this thank you numbskull

Yep. With the exception of lane assist, I agree with all your selections there, AS.. 👍🏻

Thanks for the quick response Warrior. I’ve got an ongoing problem with the coolant warning being triggered (from cold start) but the level is above minimum and it doesn’t seem to be losing coolant. I’ve noticed that once the warning goes off a temperature sign appears but it goes off intermittently. This coolant tank was only fitted two weeks ago when the heater core was replaced. I’ve tried cleaning the prongs this morning and will see if it makes a difference otherwise it’s back in the garage.

But why are you engaging the handbrake while moving ?

Do bear in mind this relates to later cars with many more sensors, modules and complex computer programs that interfere more with the running and driving of the car (not as much as later and latest cars though). I know I will shatter the illusions for some that the VW engineers, computer engineers and mechanics always get everything right and have their customers best interests at heart at all times but in my experience with my wife's car the figures given are not fully accurate, now it may be that my wife's car is an exception and there may be other factors influencing the figures to her car. The 6 hours is wrong in my experience with my wife's car, I have never paid attention to coolant temperature when this happens as I have no idea how accurate it is, its a 90 biased gauge anyway.

Mostly it stays on 90 degrees in the display meter. But when temperatures reaches below -16 degrees celcius, I notice that the gauge moves from 90 degree mark down to maybe 75 mark when rolling down a hill. Moves straight up again when accelerator is active. Its just the way these engines are constructed. How do I know the temp? I use OBD 11 live data to check coolant temp.

I had problems with a rear brake dragging, I fitted these from eBay which fixed the problem. Easy to fit. Caliper Return Springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333521299428

This is quite a common fault here too, so much that there a special insurance extra for damage from animals chewing things

I changed the window motor and all problems ceased. Door locks, windows work normally and door open light goes off when the door shuts and interior light goes off.

I’ve just had this done our 2005 estate. Replaced the rear caliper and handbrake cable and all is good.

Weak battery can make a real mess, I agree. Another option: harnesses chewed by a rodent. A rodent had chewed 4 different harnesses on my wife's Audi Q3 indeed. No less than 28 cuts! This raised fault codes on brake fluid level sensor, Oil level sensor, front parking sensor, gearbox neutral position sensor. Thus, no front park assist system, no Stop & Start, no low oil level monitoring, red warning on brake system, and consequently, no ABS, no ESP. Fortunately, owning a VCDS allowed me to diagnose all affected harnesses. It took me a whole day to fix this, (cause I'm not very skilled at electrical wire welding 😁). But I saved ~€800 compared to a repair by an Audi dealer...

Hey @Phoenixboy. Curious if you did get verification about the cambelt change interval? Thanks!

@tyreman1What was done at those services is what matters, In it,s 4th year is that 2 fixed interval Oil & Inspection services, annual or maybe 1 at 1 year and another at 3 years and maybe the Extended Scope? Or was it on Variable and a service at 2 years and one recently. It is what gets done being recorded that matters and know what was not and you will need to be doing when you get it, or at the next service. Having 4 matching tyres with good treads is nice or pairs matching. Brake discs not too rusty, and if rear drum brakes it is nice if those were serviced.

Would some of the missing systems suggest something other than a speed sensor fault? E.g. Road sign recognition Perhaps a CAN related fault or bad ground?

Have you hit a pothole at all? I hit a pothole and all those warnings came up but they did go off a wee while after. Turns out my alloy was badly dented on inner rim. Might not be the same thing but worth considering.

My new beast. I got I just before Christmas and absolutely loving it so far.

Yes, but it is being economical with the truth. For the last week I have been looking at the engine temperature gauge in the dash. On this car it is digital and only displays in 5 degree C steps. At the same time I have been looking at the engine temperature via the OBD11 App on my mobile phone. The dash temp goes up very quickly to about 80 C and then can drop a little. The OBD11 reading goes up slower and then drops later but by about 30 C. I am guessing this is when the thermostat opens . It then rises again, sometimes reaching the same reading as the dash one. Where as the dash reading hardly changes the OBD11 has much bigger changes which depend on how hard the engine is working. I have also been watching the oil engine temperature. This takes a lot longer to rise, especially during this cold spell. This also changes depending on how hard the engine is working. Spring / Autumn readings are about 10 C higher with summer ones even higher again. This is for both the OBD11 water and oil readings. Meanwhile the dash gauge still shows its usual 90 C. 😮 Thanks. AG Falco

Dug out the spare key which has been in a safe place and only used when car was left for servicing/MOT. The car started instantly! I'll close this topic and thank all for their contributions. In the meantime, I'll replace the 10yr old battery in the 'main' fob on my keyring.

I believe that just relates to HID or above 2000lm. A Halogen-based projector won't exceed that so won't need self levelling and washers.

This sounds like a bad earth. I frequently had problems with the earth connecting between the battery and the inner wing on mine, and it'd send the car into a mad frenzy. I ended up adding a second earth to a bolting point down beside the power steering pump reservoir cap.

2/3 year and 60K miles for VAG cars ? Hyundai and Kia 7 years. My Renaults 5 years and 100K miles. Both the full EV and the mild hybrid. Had a turbo go on my 30 month old Audi A4 and it was a nervous warranty claim as car had done 65k miles. VAG warranty does not back up the brands supposed high engineering standards.

Just had my VRS petrol serviced at Skoda Leeds and they have replaced the engine cover with the new (safe) cover.

Ive never heard such a load of old crap about a requirement for a more powerful graphics processor to get updated graphics. The 1st Mk4 models are exactly the same as those on the 2021 Seat Leon, Golfs and Audi A3's which all show a combination of maps and standard clocks. The Octavia Mk3 had a digital cluster upgrade with clocks and maps on the same screen. I remember when buying my Octavia Mk4 the rep was telling me you could choose from millions of colours for the background graphics. turned out to be 9. Sales reps will tell you anything to get a sale As usual Skoda holds back on features to differentiate from Seat, VW and Audi.

Thanks for the advice, the metal prongs don't seem to be accessible in the expansion bottle so I'll look at getting it replaced.