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I would rather buy a four year old car that i can afford and own it than "use" a new car for four years and end up with nothing.

Incorrect, using E10 it's 90% fossil fuel powered

That looks like a simple cabin heating and ventilation system - not one with AC.

Reset mine "manually" today... not sure why it would be dangerous... 1. Ignition off... 2. Hold trip reset 3. turn ignition on still holding trip reset 4. option to reset comes up. 5. let go of the trip reset 6. press reset trip to acknowledge. 7. turn off ignition. At stage 4 - if you hold longer it will change from Rest oil to reset inspection...

Let me add a fuel consume detail from a motorway - 4.9 liter/100 km

I own 1L petrol Karoq and live in a hilly location. I've experienced no power weakness since 2018, even with full load (including rear bike rack and 2 bikes on it) during holiday travels.

Welcome. Sorry i know nothing but if really there is no Cabin / Pollen filter regardless of AC or no AC that is really really crap from Skoda / VW Group. Hopefully someone that knows about Citigo without AC in not the UK will be along.

We are in a world of people knowing the price of things and the value of nothing. Car sales executives know how many come to them wanting to buy cars for themselves, not a company, not wanting a lease or finance. So keen are the manufacturers and the sales people / dealerships to flog new cars that people an even sign up for the never never get the incentives and then pay off the finance and keep that little extras they got. All because the cars are over priced in the first place and even interest free loans are over priced. All about finance, keeping piling them high and getting new cars sold, used cars in and sold and it all keeps going. Looks like the crash is coming because the New BEV,s were far too expensive and new ones cost less than nearly new. But the crash is always predicted. The finance mis-selling that happened might just be the death of some Dealership Groups.

The same air that you breathe when outside of the vehicle. Coldest setting is ambient air temperature. The above is on the basis that you do not have aircon, I do not have Climatronic but the basic Climatic system and also aircon, my heater controls are like yours but I have an additional AC on/off button which I don't see in your photograph.

10-12 miles a litre so nothing special and just about Average Co2 g/km and that will be kidology from the WLTP regime. This con of 'Electrification' total crap, PHEV / MHEV, Self charge and these are not Range Extenders because it is a generator, is nonsense is what is stopping the manufacturers getting on with lighter and more efficient vehicles and more efficient BEV.s.

Are you sure these are the right ones ? I've put my reg and it shows them as not compatible with my 280

The Nissan is hardly special though is it, at least I don't think it is. It still is ICE and only achieves at best 53mpg. I can get over 62mpg from my diesel and over 600 miles from it's 60litre tank, is a 2litre engine of 150hp output. Those mpg figures have been achieved with nye on 40 stones of bodies in the car. It has zero capability of ever being zero emission in town though, despite it being more efficient.

Update 2: Turns out it was a blown fuse. I replaced the fuse, cleared the code, and now the car is back to normal. Thanks, everyone.

Only what's left of her

So thats both doors and mirrors fully complete. First was extending the wires for the blind spot indicator as mentioned before - as much as I wanted to run all new wires to avoid a join, it would of taken hours per side, so instead I decided to go for a crimp style connector and OE clear heatshrink supplied by skoda. Kept the join in an area that does not bend and we are all sorted. Whilst fitting the wing mirror I found a tiny spot of rust no bigger than 2/3mm but to be on the safe side, it was treated, sanded and a good dab of paint to cover it. The final connectors for the door jam were finished and the cables tucked away for now (not my prettiest loom taping job and it will get redone when the dash comes out.) The door looms were refitted and you can see where the HSD connectors and cables meet up now. One thing I will monitor is how tight the wires are that live in the door jam since ive re-wrapped them, hopefully we get no early fatigue but in 6 months or so ill strip the boot back and double check for any strain. And now.... the unsung hero that kept me going even in the rain. The gazebo! Best investment ive made for working on the car - rain or wind, put it up, throw the sides on it and carry on. Next on the list is to complete the other isolated areas to minimise how much needs doing for the main strip out, so next up is: - Tailgate wiring and antennas - Headliner down and new shark fin and rear quarter antennas fitted - Front seat strip down and fit of ventilation (will start with passenger seat incase I completely butcher it) And now ive finally got the correct socket, ill be fitting the new rear wheel bearing tomorrow morning (Old one decided it wanted to sing to me constantly)

As title suggests, my new 73 plate Kamiq Monte Carlo to replace my 21 plate Kamiq MC. Thought I’d go all arty on the pic. In all my years of driving this is the first time I’ve gone for the same car/same spec…..that’s how much I rate it. Covered 80 miles so far, so far so good.

Good for you, and by your logic, no one would ever need more than 150 hp of power. Reminds me of this misquote:

Here's one way

It's possibly dangerous in the sense that people might simply reset it and not service their cars when they should, so possibly risking damage to engines with oil not changed or overlooked inspection of brakes etc Dangerous to the profits of the service departments certainly and to the poor sod buying the car second hand that's been serviced, but not really, just reset

the egr cooler likes to leak coolant inside and to replace it on a DSG car is a very hard job,add 4x4 and is a nightmare. Me and my friend wich is a very skilled Vag mechanic took us 9 hours. The dpf with adblue is a good,mature sistem,with some care and propper driving won't give major issues. I bought the car with 120k miles and DPF partially clogged.I managed to restore it easy enough with some propper driving and some Liqui Moly aditives.

Hiya, have you seen this; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323974769047?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4AXrxQfvTFi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=akn2d3NASFC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY. There are loads of those wired plugs available online, just check the numbers before ordering. If you can get the existing plug off the switch, yes it's fiddly, you're better able to strip back the loom enough to give you enough of the existing wiring to work with. Splicing your new wire on shoul prove easier. Soldering, crimp connections etc will be easier now. Don't worry about the colours on the new plug and tails, so long as the plug fits and there's two wires, you're good to go. If I remember correctly the wires going to the switch are coloured black/white and black/blue. Looking at your pic above, this would indeed be the case. Not too much loom chopping required at all. Cheers

The only DPF additive I've used is the Miller's one which lowers the temperature that re-gens kick in, so you don't have to take it for a thrash down the motorway first.

Has the new battery been "coded in" to the car so that systems know it's a new battery and not the old Varta?

Okay, thanks for everyone that contributed to my post. That solves my question. So my car doesn't have an A/C . My mechanic is an old man he already brought the cabin filter for replacement on full service at 60000 km mark. He changed oil, oil filter, spark plug, air filter did some checks under the hood and tyres and was about to change cabin filter which i didn't have. Thanks for the solution. I never knew till now I didnt it have an AC. Even my mechanic said I had a cabin filter. Maybe he is servicing a citigo for the first time.

Above an image from the internet, it says it's for a Citigo. Have you noticed that yet, if not don't worry about it. All modern cars now all have oversized wheels and wider tyres so more rubber debris in the air and down the drains, more diesel cars after the 1990s con so more crap from their exhausts than previously and of course more cars on the roads overall, many doing very sort distant journeys where they don't fully warm so running well below full efficiency and cleanliness. But if you've not noticed anything yet then don't worry about it. The air-con is useful for cooling a hot cabin in summer and clearing condensation caused by various reasons, You must be young, it's not that far back that small cars didn't have air-con and going back a bit you'd have to have a luxury car to have it or it be on the list of options. We survived many decades without air-con in summers and winters, it is possible, hotter now for many reasons and cars have to be locked and sealed up, and with better sealing, so hold more cabin heat and for longer, also even a Citigo is a bigger car with probably(?) more glass on it than earlier small cars so possibly gets more solar gain (heat from the sun) and more sealed so holds the heat in - but you can overcome most/some of this with a little effort. If you need advice on such things just ask. Normally setting the heater to cold (and keeping the recirculation off) will get cold or cooler air from outside into the cabin, if need the output to the cabin can be speeded up and assisted by turning the blower on to 1, 2, 3 or 4. If you need to know more about operating your heating/cooling system you (and your mechanic, he's the one I worry about) then just read the Owner's Manual for your car for this and other stuff you need to know about your car, free Skoda pdf download free here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Again, if you read and when required refer to the Owner's Manual you'll learn and know a lot about your car and how to maintain and drive it and could save yourself lots of time, hassle and money by sometimes avoiding garages and mechanics. A lot of servicing, maintenance and repairs just boil down to clean and lubricate (including electronics and computers), some/much of it is so simple even I can do it, so you could if you wanted, including most (possibly all) of the service your mechanic might have done. Have you got a list of what was done in the recent service as most services are far from full for the whole car and many services are no more or little more than a change of engine oil change and (hopefully) engine oil filter and a look around for more chargeable work. There's a lot more to a car than just the engine oil, the engine isn't the most important thing, brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres), then safety electrics (lights, horn, blower, wipers perhaps) and glass (windows and mirrors) - see and be seen. Start new threads if you want or need to know about other stuff and as you've seen posters here will help you. HTH.

The sweet spot on the VRS is a low torque remap, more speed, more economy, no reliability penalty. What's not to like. I say grow old disgracefully!

Then go for the full standard swap. You keep everything stock, add the wireless dongle (between 30 and 60 euros) and you are good to go Pab on the forum will fix you up good

Yep I now feel anxious driving this car - not good

will get them posted monday i promise

Fort that price, i would go for a official swap then add a wireless dongle. It is what i did in my car. You keep all the stock functions 2013 is it mk3 model?

Yes thats right, retrofitted columbus but had the Canton before, the splitter will be ordered upcoming week

I'm not very mechanical or expert in anything just going on my limited experience with other cars. If you can get a closer look with more light there you might confirm the boot is open which could have got dirt/debris inside in which case the droplink needs replacing, personally I'd always replace such parts in pairs. I've no idea how awkward or not that droplink might be to replace, the nuts can be a right PITA to get off. Possibly a thin-headed spanner to hold the thread part on its hex might be needed but I don't know, other Superb owners will. Going at it with a rattle gun drill, if you can get one in there, might make things worst or might loosen the nut straight away (with a spanner the other side?). I'd clean and pre-soak, and leave to soak in, the fixings in PlusGas or GT85 the day or night before trying to get the nuts off. PlusGas is a good penetrating, releasing fluid, GT85 is that too and a load of other benefits, unfortunately neither are British companies anymore. https://www.plusgas.co.uk/en-gb https://gt85.co.uk/ One way to find out if it's that droplink causing or contributing to noise and feel(?) is to remove it and carefully test by a short slow drive with turn, preferably off the public road (that's anywhere that the public can be) and if the noise and feel through steering and pedals has gone that's probably it. Let us know how you get on and what the resolution is, cheers.

Which engine is fitted? Sometimes after a rebuild after re bore/new pistons/honing etc it takes a while for things to run in / wear together and oil consumption can be on the high side for a while. But not usually with clouds of smoke. Have new valve oil seals been fitted? Also check everything to do with Crankcase ventilation as if crankcase pressure is high oil can be blown past valve oil seals at times! If you get smoke when first accelerating after been cruising or on the overrun then I'd suspect valve oil seals or crankcase pressure. If smoke is more constant then I'd suggest a mis assembly issue re pistons / rings - might be worth using a bore scope to have a look to make sure those honed bores aren't being damaged. I did something similar with an old Cortina 1300 many decades ago and had an issue with the replacement top rings as they came into contact with a slight wear lip at the top of the bore (I hadn't rebored) which damaged the rings. I partially solved by fitting a top stepper ring instead, although I ultimately regretted not getting a full rebore.

Thanks for taking the time to reply and your suggestions. I did wonder if the connection at the top of the bar was meant to look open like that.

A good endorsement then to stay with one 👍 Enjoy.

Cheers for the reply, much appreciated thanks 👍

I'm going to view #010 on Sunday, so I'll bare it in mind when looking through the history, the previous owner has been very helpful and has given me confidence that it's a good motor.

In answer to your initial question though, I wouldn't worry about the behaviour of the dealers - could be a whole host of reasons; like wanting to get sales figures etc. The car is wholly under-rated compared to its VW and Audi counterparts. May not have some of the same stuff but its got the same look and feel and is a whole lot rarer. Sportline replaces wiht chrome with black trim so that's better and you don't miss out on much. Can see 4 Sportline or L&K 2023 so a few options around...

Instead of being maintained and repaired, low mileage cars age badly due to lack of use.

Bonus picture: First ever test print of the front camera mount, tomorrow we will see if the actual camera fits in it and hopefully if it fits in the front grill.

With SCR / Adblue you can still get clogged DPF,s and regens and messing about with cold start / short trips. and then the issue some have with AdBlue and the systems. Many might have no issues, but the problem is when you get them. Costs / repairs,. just the PITA really.

Yup, they were used on Apollo as the primary electrical power source and also to provide drinking water. And that's the beauty of hydrogen power, from water to water.

Powered brakes? Usually trailers with brakes have inertial brakes which have nothing to do with the wiring.

Been more than 3 months since Gandalf had a wash 😕 Happy with how shiny it still turns out, despite being almost 7 yrs old 😁

Goldfinch

Internet radio is arguably a case of mis-selling! I struggled for ages to get my Karoq to load internet radio stations, and even tried parking under a mobile phone mast to improve reception. But eventually I discovered the eSim in the car was not licensed to receive the data needed to listen to internet radio. Instead Skoda want you to sign up to an expensive monthly or yearly data pack to get this to work. (However I did find that it would work by using my phone as a data hot point, and setting the car to use that as a data source instead, and thought that might be useful when I travelled abroad on holiday.) Chris

Slight change to what I had said before: For the signal path, it's not an Audison DMI used, but a Zen5. Sounds like there are issues with the DMI and the Zen5 addresses them all. My mistake And update after a few weeks of running in.... SOUNDS AMAZING!!!! Any one who says the stock or Canton system sound good, need to have a listen to a proper set-up!!! They are night and day, plain and simple!

The water pump is on a different belt to the cam so there is no point in changing the water pump unless there is a problem with it.

Solved it.... saw my parcel shelf this morning standing by the airing cupboard door, about to throw it away and thought I would give it one more look, managed to get both end caps off, remove and roll the cover back up, slide it back into place, prime the spring and put it all back together, all working! I think I could have put a little more tension in the spring, unfortunately I didn't think I would be successful so I didn't bother taking any photos but here is what I did. 1. under the end caps there looks like 4 slits in the plastic, these are essentially spring loaded latches that catch onto the main body of the roller housing, the slits allow them to flex, gently insert a screw driver blade into the inner 2 slits (one clip per side) ease it out and that will release the clip and the end caps slide off, there is a large spring on each end which pushes these end caps back out to secure into the rear side panels of the boot. 2. each end of the aluminium housing is another cap, both are held in place with plastic lugs which you can push in and gently pry the caps off the housing, no spring to worry about, one end has a hex shaft which stops the inner tube from rotating, the other end has an X shaped inset which mounts into the end of the roller - I took this end off 3. slide the roller out, re roll and refit leaving it to stick out a little. 4. using the end cap wind up the spring to add tension to the roller so that it retracts again when pulled out, carefully though, let the cap come off and you'll need to re prime the spring, happened to me twice and very annoying!! 5. hold the cap on the roller push the roller onto the hex shaft, I used a second pair of hands to guide that end in place, and push the inner end cap on at this point I tested the roller and found that I needed more tension so ended up repeating steps 2 - 5 6. replace the springs and the out end caps, needed to pry the latches to get them on but a bit of force and then snapped back in place. Fitted the the car and working fine again, a little slower than previously so probably could have added even more tension to the spring but much better than spending £100 on a new roller. Hope that helps some other folks, I will try and get some photos if that is not clear and upload later Solved it if you haven't already managed it