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I'm inclined to say that the owner was partly at fault, tor taking a decent car to Halfrauds for service!

H2o from external sources into the Engine. (Not into the door inner's, or the rear or front carpets or spare tyre well.. Skoda characteristics, now that is common.) Fording and water into Air Filter and to engine. Well the Air filter gets wet. The engine might then Hydraulic lock.) Deep enough for the Dip Stick tube with no dipstick in to suck in water like down a straw. No dip stick or loose. A driver knows they did that! Some muppet at a service or anyone, topping up the coolant into the oil filler hole having taken off the cap. Now that is a favourite.

£67….? To replace the pollen filter…..? It literally took idiot me ten minutes, start to finish, including finishing me tea, unwrapping the very expensive Mann Clinkerstomdisinfectonstafuntenfart filter, walking to the car, contorting myself in the footwell and walking to from the car in the garden! They cannot pay more than £4 trade for the standard filter (on the basis we used to get 68% on filters) so that works out to an hourly labour rate of….. drum roll….. a mere £378!!

I’ve owned Big Green for about 3 years now and I love the thing. It’s such an enjoyable car to drive, camp with, go on road trips in, and work on. In this time I’ve done the following. Most recent jobs are at the top, oldest jobs at the bottom. Done ✅ Sort out rusty patch on rear right-hand door Fix coolant leak in engine bay HEL brake lines front 312 carriers discs and guards front Drop links front Drop links rear HEL braided brake lines rear 256 rear brakes and callipers Rear trailing arm polybushed Fit rear control arms x4 Fit rear hub bushes x4 Rear door membranes fixed Fit TT Comp wheels and PS5 tyres VRS Handbrake VRS steering wheel VRS gear knob New front wishbones New front ball joints VRS front springs Install golf mk4 recaro seats Fit under seat subwoofer Fit new passenger window regulator New passenger door handle cable New windscreen wipers front and back New door locks Fit Blaupunkt DAB radio Fit Hertz speakers Fix leaking SAI motor (noisy) Remove and replace oil pickup pipe Fit new sump Fix headlamp inclination motors New carpet mats Fit DAB antenna Fit gas struts to boot and bonnet New number plate light glass New badges front back and wheels New front left radiator fan Next jobs; 19mm RARB powder coated Polybush 19mm RARB Aesthetic: Reupholster door cards Reupholster head liner Sort out rattling sunroof cover Sort out rear end rattle (interior) Remove glass from NSF door

Here she is, to add to the list 🥰 (I cannot make the order I want yet, sorry)

“traders have a responsibility of care under the Consumer Rights Act 2015”. The garage might have a sign on their premises saying that they’re not responsible for any damage - this can be considered an ‘unfair term’, which means they’re still liable https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/buying-or-repairing-a-car/problems-with-a-car-repair/ Under the section "If the garage damaged your car" To my mind that's reasonably clear cut, any damage caused is the dealers responsibility and its up to them to argue with any insurance company they may use to cover their "duty of care" obligations

Little things, pleasing little minds 😁: I know, I know, I make it look easy! 📸 G

It would perform like the place name used by Dylan Thomas , Llareggub (read that place name backwards).

Must have. Would have. And brakes. Apologies but the last 2 postings tipped me over the edge. Off to look for some prollys on Facebook now 🤣

For those like me that end up speed reading responses like the above in the hope there might be something relevant I have created a shortened version -

And the OP is not only still driving the car like that but doing a couple of thousand kms per week and is going to continue doing so for 4 weeks , I pity whoever ends up with this vehicle when they knock it out. Any responsable garage would not have let the customer leave the premises with the vehicle and would not even have started the engine until it had been flushed and refilled with fresh oil and a new filter, and then watched the oil quality like a hawk over a decent mileage before handing it back.

Sorry but I don't see why and I qualified the approach and limitation, I wasn't suggesting flooding the area and spraying willy-nilly. It's similar to a pushbike with a cable moving something remotely only difference is that it'll probably involve some type of VAG/Bentley fantastic plastic instead of usually metal on pushbikes. It was just to start with the simplest approach first to reduce possibly involving hazards and PITA farting about with removing other bits of plastic on a 7-year old (or even newer) car and where heater items are fitted tend to be cramped and awkward places. But I admit I haven't a clue with a Citigo and just cleaning and lubricating and gently working this in might not work at all but if it did I would work the flap/knob/cable every time I got in the car for a while and then at regular intervals to keep it moving and check it's not starting to play up again. Its like testing or using items at intervals that may not get much use normally to make sure they work for when you need them, when you put the ignition on you get a test of various warning lights but they don't cover everything. I almost never sound the horn, unless I accidently lean on the centre of the steering wheel of my wife's 2015 Fabia as I turn to look out the back window, so every once in a while I'll sound the horn to make sure it's working and give it some exercise. We know what the problem is and it's best to know the cause but often if the problem can be resolved by very simple actions then that can be enough for something as minor as this but if regphenna wants or needs to do more the learning process may encourage tackling other jobs with confidence, I'm at the other end of that rainbow. 🙂

I took this recently one evening. 10x zoom on my Samsung phone and then a further digital zoom (totalling around 20x zoom I would estimate), so that's the excuses out of the way. Impressive catch though (the bird, not the photo)

No, I have never been asked to do that when having any of the cars I've had over the years, when taking them in for any servicing or repair work to be done.

After the shower and a break, went underneath the car to drain the rear diff: The drain bolt is the same as the fill, but unlike the fill bolt, didn't round and pretty much no drama. So whilst it was draining, started to look at the Haldex. For all intents and purposes, tried to follow this: Which is pretty much the most comprehensive Haldex change guide pretty much. One great takeaway is to disconnect the controller in it, which makes disconnecting the pump wiring easier, so a 10mm socket onto the top: Bit tight, but cracked free and out it went. Can't say the same about the bottom: Got the extension on it and you can see it isn't on dead on, so ominous. Which then decides to: Shear off. It does mean the controller is free so I suppose I could carry. Whilst there though, and given there's a chunk of thread, went at it with a Knipex plier to see if I can spin it free. Well: I've been messing around with cars since 2010 and this is the first time I've ever witnessed a bolt being sheared twice. This car is pretty special! I decided to put the remains on the back burner and went to disconnect to the drain plug: Pretty beefy 8mm hex required so came out without much drama. The fill bolt was already freed a few days ago, so no worries there. Given the drama of that bottom bolt, the rear diff had then pretty much finished draining, so put in a replacement drain bolt: Sticks out like a sore thumb how shiny it is compared to it's surroundings. Tightened to 20Nm and ready for a fill. Didn't take pics, but with the controller freed, disconnected the small connector, and wanted to disconnect the larger one, but couldn't get it to budge. With the pump plug freed, then tried to disconnect the wiring, which I ended up doing clumsily. One clip came free, but the other appears to have snapped free. Regardless, went at the pump directly next. Two bolts, the same ones for the controller by the looks it, so two 10mm bolts. The top one was interesting, being covered in an unusual amount of rubbish and crud. Had to scrape it away with a thin pointy thing (think screwdriver) to get enough purchase for the 10mm socket. Then some prying and gentle tapping with a hammer: It should then start coming free. Then it was a case of some wiggling and back and forth: Then out it comes. Obviously make sure the pan is underneath to catch any extra drained Haldex oil. The pic shows all sorts of horrors as is: Bit gunky. I was less concerned about that and more about this: I already mentioned the snapped clip at the bottom, but the fact that the sheath for the wiring has this much corrosion, is quite extraordinary. I may have to budget a replacement pump: Just the general mankiness of the pump and that exposed wiring due to the sheath being damaged is just ominous. Something for the future. Anyways, went to cleaning the pump: Some T10 torx bolts and the filter wiggles free, with a a gunk moustache on both sides. Attacked both with brake cleaner and shop cloths: Gave the area the pump sits in a quick wipe, and also to see what happened with the plastic clip bit for the wiring: The fact that it's hard to spot is a sign of how grim its gotten. Couldn't think of any other way than to tap at the mess with a hammer and punch: Which eventually freed the remains. What was left: Just a load of corrosion there, which I guess ended up bunging up the plastic clip. Gonna have to give this all a thorough clean. Doesn't really matter as that bit of the clip is broken anyway. I took a lunch break at this point, so I'll stop the post here! Maintenance: £2004.02 Upgrades: £1158.66 Miscellaneous: £659.06

No. Aren't trade plates only required for cars that are untaxed?

Link to new brochure 10th April 2024 https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/5782ef00-768c-43df-8faf-51cba9730287

Broken wire or corroded connection at one of the A-pillar connectors, I imagine.

It is time for some standards on these things. It will take a long time before the public learn such things, they have decades of going to a forecourt and sticking a nozzle in the filler neck, no need to think.

Yes, I expect the very first cars were only minuscule city cars and so home chargers at 3kW were fine, so when the introduced 7kW, the called them Fast Chargers, at the time yes, they were, but the pace of development has eclipsed them. I bet they wished that the marketing depts hadn't been unleashed on them, but instead had just named them by their speed, 3, 7, 11, 25.... 250kW etc. Oh the benefits of hindsight eh?

@Graham ButcherIt lets him down because really without a doubt he is on a mission to be let down. He chose the big battery car that is not that efficient and that is simple, fast charging makes it easy. I chose a small battery car, that is not that efficient and made worse by the chargers being blocked often by big battery cars getting charged to 100%. Or even 80% just because they are stopped and they are not paying, so as well to park and plug. PS. Maybe i should had put a crying emojy above. EV Charging might be more available than parking.

Then what's the point of the video? Highlight how not to charge EV's, but present it as a problem. Destination charging at hotels would solve all problem for tourists. Public infrastructure should always be the fallback. 7 kW charge points are never designed to get people from A to B, it is designed for people to use whilst parked up at B. For example, my 600 miles drive to Portree, I would not have to worry about charging. Tesla software takes care of everything, Tesla superchargers all the way. But around Isle of Skye, I'll need a top up charge. If I were able to charge at the B&B for just 1 night, I wouldn't have any worry for the duration of my stay on the isle. Scotland council installed rapid charger is the last resort fallback. I'll be travelling in May bank holiday as well as kids' half term. One of busiest week for tourists. I'm not at all worried about potential queueing.

Someone suggested that Skoda stopped sticking the white build code label in the spare wheel well area after around 2015/16. So you might not have one, although the exact date Skoda stopped sticking the white build code label in the spare wheel well area might vary from model to model. However, Skoda only included around 40 of the build codes, when the car might actually have around 180 build codes...so most aren't included. There's an ebay seller that can supply all of the build codes for about 3 Euros (about £2.50). Search "skoda vin decoder" on ebay to find the listing. "skoda vin decoder" https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224631127243

When the business is paying their charging of the 'Company car' as one Porsche owner told me at Stirling Park and ride when i said there was a 40 minute max charge then £1 a minute, it does not matter how much it cost as if you average it out it is cheaper than the chargers where they went to eat. So he did think about the money and not using the eateries charger. The guys as it always has been guys in the vans have always been the same, there range is crap and if they need to charge they do and nobody has ever told them about penalty charges.

@Gymbro1976 I just Googled P0030 it said that is the primary sensor, so I'd say S1 as my VCDS would say. So it's the engine side of the catalyst. Sometimes they are accessed from above and not underneath. My Yeti S1 Lambda for example is easy change from above, far easier than the S2 underneath. Don't go changing the wrong one out of the S1 and S2.

Should have got a Renault Zoe and could have got 22 kws AC charging.

Probably not - single colour LEDS only have 2 wires but RGB (multicolour) LEDs usually have four wires (common, R, G & B ) so it seems unlikely that VAG would include extra driver circuitry that will never be used in most vehicles. Plus the drive voltages for different colour LEDs are not the same (due to the different bandgap to produce the different colour) so there's an added complication there.

Or screenwash.

Have you checked maybe on the ECP website for re-manufactured Pagid front callipers - I'm sure that the piston size is quoted there, I used that and other sites to establish the rear and front calliper piston sizes for my wife's 2015 VW Polo, and at least for the rear callipers, the information was correct. Or, using the ebay shop for Bigg Red,send them a message, I did that as the listing looked a bit vague to me for the front Lucas/TRW callipers - they were listed as FN3 54 somewhere else, the 54 being the piston diameter, though maybe your front callipers are ATE/Teves.

I cannot see any acceptable reason for a regularly serviced engine, in good condition and using the correct oil to do this.

Now covered 290,000 miles, Clutch replaced at 275k (the original!) Plate similar to Rizla paper-but never stopped working... EVERYTHING still works... Engine still quiet and smooth, seems to be getting smoother and perkier with age. Uses negligible oil (Castrol Edge) My nephew drove it recently and commented on how silky smooth the gear change was.. Apart from the fact it's euro5 I see no reason in changing it! I think I got a good one! Best car I've ever owned, owes me nothing!

@kodiaqsportline fair point on the servicing interval. My intention was to mainly find out what oils are factory recommended for the engine and then decide on the best oil for the driving habits. My logic is a lower viscosity long life oil will be better for frequent cold starts and short trips, although I’m aware it’s terrible for the engine either way. @Rooted Thanks for the heads up on the spark plugs. I just found out they were changed during the last service so happy days. Air filter will be changed during my next oil change and checked every year. I appreciate all the feedback and feel a lot more confident purchasing my oil now. I’ve settled on the VW Longlife 504/507 spec 0w30, most likely the same as what’s in there now.

Not sure on changing colours, I know VW and Seat are set to red, my MK6 Golf GTi was anyway and so is my wife's Leon. I like the idea of red LEDs but not at the expense and hassle of changing it! Pretty sure my lights are white though, mines a 2015.

If it's the same as the 'Laura' assistant voice, there's an option to change the voice hidden away at the bottom of the languages menu. Scroll to the bottom of the list and it should be there.

Hi. No it doesn’t have the heated screen.

Update bled the breaks, the back ones were 7ml sprayed them cleaned and bled started the car took it for a drive and abs went off. I am over the moon she is finally now not lit up like a Christmas tree 🤣 thankyou everybody who helped.

Since ACC relies on the forward facing radar it would need to see through the car to work in reverse...

Can you feel any vibration similar to the droning sound through the floor by the pedals as you drive along? Really, you'd need to get the car in the air and spin the wheels. Whether that's one at a time or all four makes no difference. As you spin the wheels, you should hear the courseness of the worn bearing along with any noise from the brakes. I find it's best to compare a couple of wheels to make sure what you're hearing is definitely different. The other possibility is the brakes. A lip or uneven lump of rust on a disc could make the sound.

GT85 used to be a British company, I used it on my pushbikes in the 1980s, now it's owned by one of the big invasive American organisations called . . . WD-40 Company. There's obviously a reason why they continue to market it to bikes, possibly because they have a WD-40 labelled version, I've no idea if it's the same stuff or as good or if it has the same lavender(?) smell. Same for PlusGas, once British but no more, not sure if PlusGas isn't as good as it used to be or just rose tinted memories. Instead of Kurust we used to have Trustan 23 (tannic acid) I used that for decades and it worked, put some on a very small chip rust spot once then missed putting paint over it a year later the metal was still fine. We are great in this country at undervaluing local stuff and particularly now going for the brasher presentation, marketing and sales (and higher prices and consumption) that they do so well over the pond.

Sounds like broken wires in the door to body bellows. With the door open, can you put something in the door lock to latch it, making the car think the door is shut, then wriggle the bellows with the ignition on.

Get the drums off, clean everything up and make sure the automatic adjustment mechanisms haven't seized up first.

That off-straightness in your pic is a giveaway that the mechanism on one side is seized. Probably the pivot point of the lever within the drum that the cable pulls on. If it was earlier in the day I could tell you which side to find the problem, probably left/nearside.

Yeah I think you’re right. The fixing at the end of the elbow is the wrong angle for mine. It’s silly as I think a load of websites are getting it wrong probably because 2021 vehicle for one brand isn’t the same. Mine must be very early Gen4 and is probably when they switched from 272 back up to 280. Maybe. Cheers for getting back to me. Fingers crossed for the sale 👍

Skoda direct should be coming through for me this week. When I get the template I'm looking to install in April (hopefully). Then happy to sell the template on for £100 (it was around £200 including delivery). If anyone is interested let me know.

My Trinity alloys were also diamond cut & I had have them refurbed a couple of times over the years. In the end I decided that powder coating them black to match the body colour offered better protection, gave the car a meaner look, & hides the road grime & brake dust. At £60+vat per wheel it was also cheaper than having them traditionally refurbed & diamond cut.

There doesn’t need to be anything in the plug, there’s lots of lighting circuits that can be used! The camera doesn’t detect a Towbar connection; it’s just a reverse camera. Especially when you can have a car specced with a tow bar and no camera

DCC configs are surely possible with towbar. There might be some coding that affects both working together, yeah. But surely there's nothing like "car will recognize what it's towing" 😉 The plug for the towbar does not have capabilities like that at all.

I don't know the answer ( can take an educated guess tho ) but if someone doesn't read the T&C and simply assumes, then they have no room for complaint. A little story which echos of the above: I bought a new Volvo V50 when they first appeared in the UK. A few days later travelled from Scotland to Manchester where the car came up with a fault saying do not drive. Long story short, Volvo assistance ( the AA ) supplied me with a rental car and the AA returned the car to Scotland on a low loader. They contracted out a local recovery firm to return the car. We went round the car with a fine tooth comb noting everything - and I mean everything. There was a hair line scratch on an alloy that I never saw until it was pointed out to me that got noted down. We signed the damage sheet and the car was handed over. Four days later I received a call to say the car was ready to collect. When I saw the car I noticed the rear wheel arch had a big bash in it so went to back in to the dealership. ( Arnold Clark - say no more! ) "We don't know anything about it." "Well what about the damage report when you accepted the car?" "We didn't do a damage report. We didn't actually accept the car, we didn't even know about it, we just turned up for work and there it was, parked next to the barrier". The keys were posted thru the letter box, not even a note. We called Volvo and they told us the story." The damage was such it looked like a crow bar had been used to release the straps that held the wheel on to the low loader. Looks like they tried to prise the strap loose, the bar slipped and it hit up and underneath the wheel arch. So I contacted the delivery firm... "We delivered the car at 4am" "err, what about the damage report? When collecting the car we did a comprehensive damage report then signed an agreement, so I expect the same when you hand the car over?" "There was nobody there so we did the report ourselves" "You did the report yourself !! Nobody to confirm it? 4am on a foul February morning in Scotland... How could anyone conduct a damage report in the dark in high wind and pi55hing rain?" "It was probably vandals" "Vandals? Vandals break windows and damage doors and steel things from inside the car, are you telling me the vandal bend down on his knee with a crow bar and hit underneath the wheel arch? The car was YOUR property, YOU had an obligation to make sure it was handed over properly in the same state you received it?" "Best contact a lawyer" came the reply! If that guy was standing opposite me, I'd probably have punched him at that stage. So I first contacted Volvo assistance. They said it was between me and the the AA. "But my contract is with you". Ended up contacting the AA, they didn't want to know either. So I contacted the legal assistance arm of my insurer and their advice was it would be too expensive to take the company to court, in a case where they thought I'd loose !!! I simply can't believe it. I could have taken them to court myself but same scenario, it's an expensive game if you loose; it's much easier paying £100 excess. The one thing I learned from that experience is never to take out legal assistance on my insurance because they're not interested unless the case is 100% win and there's money in it for themselves. If it's that obvious then I don't need anyone to act on my behalf. So in summary, if the garage want to play the 'computer says no' game, then basically you're stuffed. You can take all the advice in the world but even if that advice is you'll 'probably' win, that means there's a chance you may not. That JLR garage? Under normal circumstances it'd be a public relations disaster for JLR to tell those claimants to feck off, but their typical clientel are so stupid, they'd still buy a JLR product without hesitation. Those owners have been shafted IMO yet I bet most of them will go straight back out and buy another JLR product because it makes them feel superior. ****s. They'll probably have to leave their next car at a dealership when it break down. No wonder folk are having trouble finding insurers who'll insure their Range Rover.

I don’t have ACC. The Red Horror braking can still happen.