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I went a bit left field, and have ended up with this: 2010 Volvo V70 D3 SE Lux. One owner from new (the seller), 33k miles, FVSH (Main Dealer), new battery and the only thing I could fault it on was slight perishing on the front tyres. And it was only three miles away 😎 it did 299 miles between its 2022 and 2023 MOT's - selling because it's not being used. All MOT's passed except for one in 2016 for tyre wear on one tyre. All journeys were long trips picking kids up from Uni, no short trips. I can get my mobility scooter in the back (seat off), with my folding bike, and not need to have the rear seat down 👍 Needs a good clean, but doesn't want for anything else. We'll most likely keep the Golf and sell the Polo. Don't need three cars. Gaz

Not today, but few days ago: 'Hover board' mode (for the oldest who know Marty McFly! 😁) : This was while changing rear brake pads. BTW, special thanks to @ApertureS 👋 for giving me the complete procedure, including how to stow the parking brake. 🙏

My new to me 2020 Model L&K 190BHP DSG

Maybe the nonsense is people expecting to achieve the figures all the time? I take them as "Comparison" The figure achieved by vehicles under the same parameters and conditions.

Just done it - £318pa with legal and RAC breakdown, which I thought was okay. Could've got it £18 cheaper without breakdown. Think it's about £60 cheaper than the Golf. Encouraging is the last thing I need! 😂 G

Just to finish this off. I found a trapped wire where someone had possibly replaced a bulb in the NSR cluster at some time. Made good the almost severed lead and everything is hunky dory.

Hell yeah, I wouldn't have spent that much on such an ancient engine but it's more than good enough!

Bought my MY18 Superb Estate from Sam & Andy at AudiSaab back at the end of February. Really love their no nonsense, no pressure approach to selling cars. Phoned up too see it and on arrival (at a rather nice country house) and after a few pleasantries was handed the keys, a trade plate and a plipper to open the electronic gates and basically told to fill my boots. Fast forward to this week when after several thousand miles ( immediately after buying I was on holiday in Scotland) the car has thrown up an EPC error (car is currently on about 127k). Gave them a call and was asked to drop her off and they would get their guys to sort it (currently still with them). Didn't actually seem them however Andy messaged me with a PIN for the gate and said there was a blue Audi A3 on the drive with the keys in the doorcard, just leave mine in its place (directly behind a nice Ferrari as it happened) with the keys also in the door card. https://www.audisaab.co.uk/

Seems you already have it in the best place. In an accident things can get thrown all over the place especially if the car rolls. I'd leave it in there.

Were your previous diesels to euro6d emissions spec, or earlier specs. Just because they had some form of DPF doesn't mean they have the same ones, or a much less tolerant emissions system. Basically your new one is doing too many short journeys, can't get to the higher emissions spec without longer or more frequent DPF regens (which it is failing to complete) so the excess diesel from the incomplete regen has stayed in and ended up in the oil. In simple terms if you do lots of short journeys, then to maintain the DPF to latest emissions standards need to be doing journeys of 20+ minutes once engine is thoroughly warmed through (so nearer 50 minutes, even if older emissions specs were nearer 30 mins to allow for DPF regen). The actual time depends on engine load and ambient temperature.

Trip to Beamish. Took the R3 and a 24-105 lens. A bit overkill for sightseeing tbh. Went a bit mad with the processing.

Me too gaz in yorkshire

I'm a rubbish photographer but anyone still up really ought to go outside and look up! This is the Aurora Borealis from my house in Eastbourne, happening right now: Gaz

Got driveway space for two, but a third would have to be on the road. I've had three before, but never four. Given the conversations with Mrs Gaz about this have got a little interesting shall we say, I think I'll quit while I'm behind. G

Yeah you do... Two dailies and a toy...

Considering that as I got some heavy duty velcro strips somewhere. Long story short trying to avoid drilling new holes anywhere. I don't trust myself to not break something critical.

There's a safety vest holder/pocket under the driver seat - velcro it to the underside of that?

You shouldn't; it's illegal, an MoT fail point, and won't work anyway because the focal point of halogens is different to that of plasma discharge or LED units.

@Graham Butcher I have the photographic memory. i know. If you are going to post miles / years, then learn them. But from the correct source. Cam Belt Guidance change (1) (1).pdf

Be aware, it is illegal to fit LED bulbs to units not certified for their use and an MOT fail.

We can all use them as a comparison. Also comparisons when it was pre WLTP, and cheating went on. But @Luckypants while you might never match or better the comparison figures in a petrol or diesel there are others that can as they did with the NEDC, and they were done on rolling roads. Tyres over inflated, maybe VW group diluting the Diesels engine oil with diesel. etc etc.

I've never got close to WLTP (or other methodology) MPG figures in my ICE vehicles, so why would I as a rational person, expect to achieve them in BEV? The nonsense is the people who overlook this when assessing BEVs and concluding they are rubbish as they don't meet WLTP 'in the real world' but conveniently forget their diesel does not do 70mpg 'in the real world'. Like Stonekeeper, I use them as a comparison tool.

Thanks, will do.

Really it is the EU and the WLTP that is the nonsense. Not actually Worldwide Harmonised Vehicle Test Procedures that might relate to driving vehicles in places on roads to anything other than to how a WLTP regime has a vehicle driven. Not real world use. Plenty people can drive an BEV in a manner to get the figures given. But that does need ideal conditions, and much of a lack of speed. If the cars can not do the EPA range, or what might be given as the range in South Korea or other world regions then there might well be court actions in those global regions. PS BEV Cars or Vans starting as default in Normal Mode, Mid Mode or what ever might well not be as a driver then drives. Just as with an ICE vehicle that has Stop / Start on and the driver turns Stop / Start off for their Town / City / Urban Driving. Then starting BEV,s the Regen might well be as a default at Max and the driver changes that. PPS Given today's weather and i have the tyre pressures high or the narrower option tyres i could head out now with a full battery and exceed the WLTP Range for the Mini Electric. If i could be bothered doing the 145 miles in around or over 3 1/2 hours and not just 3 hours. ................. He does not have the heating off. It shows as at 16*oC on the heater nobs. He has the AC off. There would be - - on the heater if in GREEN+. So he is in GREEN mode or he said he selected that. He could be in GREEN + and then the Heating and AC would be off and performance reduced but you can still do 70 mph. You can still do 93 mph. There is SPORT , MID, GREEN & GREEN +.

I can't say that I'm surprised by this at all, it's my understanding that an EV can often do this kind of feat, if not always beating the range estimates, but nearing them, in city traffic in warmer weather because of all the re-gen that is occurring in such conditions?

There were talks of cars not hitting economy figures provided by manufacturer. It was said that claimed range "not being achievable". This person drove MG4 long range 292 miles with 9% to spare, averaged 38 mph including congestion in central London: https://www.speakev.com/threads/mg4-beats-its-range-estimates-yet-again.184816/ MG4 long range is quoted to have 280 miles WLTP range: https://ev-database.org/uk/car/1708/MG-MG4-EV-Long-Range

No one put too much oil, the OP state it's a mixture of oil & diesel due to DPF regens and short journeys.

It is a left drive car (I'm from Serbia), I have it since 2021, I noticed the right pull about a year ago when I had my first alignment. The first shop was a real mechanic shop, and the second one was a tyre shop.

The one way valve in the pump has failed. replace the washer fluid pump and all will be working again.

The dealer didn't check the torque and power before tuning (they didn't have a dyno, something I hadn't realised). The blue line on the graph shows the expected power at stock and is from APR's website, but is probably conservative as I think it is for the CJSA which has 30Nm less torque than my CJSB. I have already had it returned to stock and I now have the anaemic yellow line. I still think the most likely thing is that they have used the wrong maps. The transmission is a 6 speed DSG, code QMH. I'm pretty sure that's a DQ250 with a torque limit of 400Nm. For people that exceed the torque limit it seems the problem is clutch slipping, not torque limiting.

280 is more than enough for me honestly but i saw some reports that 280 is in reality 320 on dyno.

The Cupra Formentor FL, which is about to come, will also have this new standard PHEV. 1.5 TSI / 204 or 272HP (both versions available) / 100km range in full electric mode.

pretty syre there was only Black Magic available as a black option. 15 extra bhp if it was on a VRS you get an extra 5 with the diesels like my one was.

I believe you're looking for Magic Black, paint code 9910. You should be able to ask a Skoda dealer to look up the colour code against the registration number and/or the VIN.

Where possible avoid the ‘one click’ options as they aren’t always compatible and people have messed up their modules before from it. they also don’t tell you what was exactly touched so reverting it isn’t always easy.

Cashback offer running again - cashback ranging from £15 for buying 2x16in up to £100 for 4x19in and over

Switched from 2016 Superb 1.4 TSI 150 to 2023 Superb 2.0 TSI 280 Including photos of my previous Skoda cars

The master cylinder (23.8mm piston bore) is the same on the Polo MK6 with both 276x24mm and 312x25mm front brake discs, and the Scala with 276x24mm front brake discs. The reason for the master cylinder being the same for both front brake disc sizes might have something to do with the front brake calipers both having pistons that have the same 57mm diameter. By comparison, the 256x22mm front brake discs use front brake calipers with 54mm pistons and a master cylinder with a 22.2mm piston bore. On the Polo MK6, the 276x24mm front brake discs are normally matched to 230x9mm rear brake discs, whereas the 312x25mm front brake discs are normally matched to 272x10mm rear brake discs. Both the 230x9mm and 272x10mm rear brake discs normally use calipers with 38mm diameter pistons. Perhaps fit the 312x25mm front brake discs and see how you get on with the 230x9mm rear brake discs. If you don't normally carry much weight in the back over the rear axle you might be fine with the smaller rear brakes. Weight of Polo MK6 front brake discs 276x24mm 6.5kg 312x25mm 8.3kg (28% heavier than 276x24mm front brake discs) Weight of Polo MK6 rear brake discs 230x9mm 2.6kg 272x10mm 3.7kg (42% heavier than 230x9mm rear brake discs) Front brake pads for 276x24mm front brake discs Front brake pads for 312x25mm front brake discs Rear brake pads for 230x9mm rear brake discs Rear brake pads for 272x10mm rear brake discs

Just come back from dropping it off at the dealers over in The Wirral I bought her from end of Feb. They're going to sort it tomorrow. In the meantime I have an Audi A3, don't like it lol

@Jemm does your car have KESSY/keyless entry? If it does, you could have unknowingly unlocked it, when you pulled the handle to check if it's open. If the car was locked and the thieves kept pulling at the handle, even to the point of ripping the handle off it wouldn't unlock. The locking mechanism is inside the door not in the door handle. Then, in the case they smashed the window, the alarm would go off and the internal door handles wouldn't work because of the SAFELOCK system. Then the immobiliser would prevent the car from starting. However, If you left a key in the car - even with the key battery flat, then the car won't lock to prevent you from locking yourself out. It'll even make a special chirp to remind you you've left a key in the car and flash the indicators. Maybe you should have a look at this video about how the KESSY system functions: Just because you buy a car sight unseen doesn't guarantee you a problematic car. That's unsurprising based on the typical attitudes Toyota owners have towards European cars in Australia. That's a 22 seater bus. That's like comparing a Tractor to a lawn mower.

Have got a 2013 86bhp 1.2 since new and done 61k. I have the revised chain tensioner but the chain occasionally makes itself vocal when tensioning on a cold start some mornings. It has been doing it for a number of years without catastrophic results. I have mentioned it when it is serviced but the dealer was not perturbed. If it happens every time then I will investigate it further. Never had problem with starting always first time. As for price good, clean examples hold their price. Yours is the more powerful version as my model is 86bhp as opposed to yours being 105bhp which would be worth more. Insurance company valued mine at £4500 replacement value last month.

It sounds electrical to me, perhaps an intermittent relay fault. I have a 2011 Roomster with a TSi engine that is just about to notch up 120K miles so whilst I acknowledge there can be issues with the engine I am not sure how widespread it actually is.

Replacing the tow bar module is very unlikely to help. You will also need to recode and parameterise the replacement module after fitting. I think you're looking in the wrong place, the workshop manual states it's near the brake pedal: I'll say it again - get the car on some proper diagnostic equipment and see why it's not working rather than guessing. By randomly replacing parts you're just going to make the diagnosis harder...

@vRSRutty are you still looking for something? I bought some Racingline intake bits and turbo muffler delete on here that should make a bit better intake sound. Panel filter, intake hose and intake elbow are all simple and smooth the airflow, the turbo muffler delete is designed to do that also. Bought them in prep for warranty expiring…and completely overlooked that I bought bits for a Gen3 engine and I have a Gen4 so some different infrastructure design and these bits won’t fit 🤦🏻‍♂️. Send me a message if you want to know more.

Edit in italic. Similarly a rear strut brace will increase oversteer by keeping the rear end flatter. I'm unsure whether both will increase grip or just result in a more sudden breakaway.

I really wish I knew enough to argue my gut feeling on this, but I don't so I'll shut up and have a Google and see what I can find out. EDIT: Ah-ha! https://low-offset.com/workshop/strut-bars-explained/ Well well well! I did not expect that. That said, there's a mix of opinions elsewhere on whether they increase or reduce oversteer, so I'm no more sure of the truth of the matter. 😄

I can't argue with you on this as I don't know enough to be sure enough to argue the point, but it sounds wrong. Now stiffer anti-roll bars, sure. Any idea why a front strut brace might introduce understeer?

So in my case it was faulty pin in ECU connector.