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That worn shoulder is almost down to bottom of tread. All season tyres (with V shape tread pattern) throw water in puddles out of the side, I can't see how the water could exit if that was in contact with the road so would significantly increase risk of aquaplaning. I would be very tempted to get tracking sorted and replace them. Also if you want new winter tyres, then don't wait until prices go up in autumn when demand is high.

Tanks with a silica bag in generally had 'mit Silikat' printed on the outside I thought. This is the tank on my previous 2015 vRS: Gaz

No, G12 evo is newer than G13, bizarrely.

One for all you Game of Thrones fans, taken this afternoon.

What a blunder by Glasgow City Council https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/8470ec59-6e1d-41ba-8e3c-1c6e75a9b0d9?shareToken=d50c603cb548fbc6894c132879ca7406 https://12ft.io/proxy

Change them. If you re bothering to change between all-seasons/winter tyres and "summer" tyres then now is the time to go the whole way with winter, "summer" swaps or all-season all year.

That's yuk. Generally coolant is every 5 years; the silicone bag was there to aide lubrication of the cooling system. If you can remove the silicone bag then great (there are three different designs out there). If not, it's a new bottle. If there is no record, get it flushed and get new coolant G12evo into the vehicle.

ok thanks for the reply's guys much appreciated!

Go through insurance, £30 or so excess and jobs a goodun. I not long had a replacement windscreen through a claim, auto glass fixed the stone chip which didn’t help, so whole new windscreen but I insisted on genuine, two times they turned up with non genuine and 3rd they did, I didn’t have to pay more than the £10 for the windscreen chip and insurance didn’t go up (in fact it went down this year). if your back window is tinted I’d insist on genuine part too as non OEM is bound to be slightly lighter or darker

You're lucky, we have had a 4 month wet spell.

What is the OEM part number of the Sirius alloy rims? This will be cast into the back of the rims. Perhaps 565071499J 8Z8 ? I suspect they are actually Kodiaq alloy rims because the 19" Karoq alloy rims have a specification of 8Jx19 ET45 5/112 57.1 whereas the 19" Kodiaq alloy rims have a specification of 7Jx19 ET43 5/112 57.1 £425 seems somewhat of a bargain because similar alloys are listed in the Skoda alloy rim accessory catalogue for about £300 each. So even if someone doesn't want the tyres, the rims could be useful for both the Kodiaq and the Karoq. 225/45R19 tyres for the Karoq 4x4 or 235/50R19 for the Kodiaq. According to ETRTO, 225/40R19 needs at least a 7.5J rim width but the higher profile 225/45R19 is fine on a 7J rim width...and Skoda themselves have previously fitted 225/45 to 7J rims...most notably on the Octavia MK3. Bear in mind that Skoda approves 19" tyres in sizes 225/40R19 and 235/40R19 for the Karoq front wheel drive, whereas Skoda approves 19" tyres in sizes 225/45R19 and 245/40R19 for the Karoq 4x4. Out of these four tyre sizes, ETRTO only approves the 225/45R19 tyre size for a 7J rim width.

The wear sensor is only on that pad - its used as a proxy for all 4 pads

It really isn't critical on an engine like yours, brand and design really don't matter at all, just buy whatever is cheapest and in stock at your local ECP or GSF, all the recommended plugs will be a "7" which is the important bit.

No of course not, this is Germany with their love of their own numbers and specifications, which they change their minds on and also have to update There was G11, G12, G12+, G12++, then G13 so what would be next - G14, no, G13+ no, . . . G12evo of course!

I've towed best part of a ton with my VRS tdi, it didn't break a sweat and can't ever say the oil temperatures got to levels which I was concerned about

Same here. No discernable difference from 1941 to 1969. Don’t bother

If I've already told you why he's called Shaun, keep it to yourself, otherwise, pipe up when you get it! I'm not normally into modern vehicles, but work were selling this, and, well, shiny things. It's like they say about Volvo's, everyone ends up in one sooner or later

Exactly where and As @Legacy said above, mine is a 2020 UK model lowish mileage and although cannot clearly see it by eyesight alone, theres a small burnt patch at the top and slight grey hazing to the top of the reflector, visible on a phone/ photo. Definitely something to keep an eye on as it is likely to deteriorate.

@thomasaspin is who can maybe help.

The sensors touching the glass are light and rain (auto-headlights and auto-wipers). High beam assist uses the obvious camera looking thing built in to the lower part of the mirror mount. Unfortunately, it does not support TSR or lane assist.

Great picture in the press yesterday of probably 20+ buses lined up in the bus lane in Streatham or Lambeth and the other lane full of slow moving ‘non-buses’ . This it seems is as a direct consequence of LTNs in the area forcing all the traffic on to that one road. Apart any benefit the people who cycle or walk along those back streets might gain by way of less traffic, I’m not sure what the council are hoping to achieve, certainly not getting bus passengers into work in a hurry 😂

@Derbylad82 Someone is pulling your plonker. Even VW Group / Skoda do not pretend that is acceptable engine oil use. For many years they have said May use as much as 0.5 litres in 1,000 km (621 miles) and that is not acceptable and never has been. You show as being in the UK and not in some extreme climate, towing heavy loads over Alpine Mountain passes. Not that 0.5 litres in 1,000 km is acceptable then either.

Car went into the dealer today and they found that the pipe that runs from the airbox to rear vents is missing. Apparently they checked that by removing the rear vent and looking, so didn't need to remove the centre console at this point. Annoyingly the service advisor was adamant that they can't get the car in again until 5th July and that would be a waiting appt, even though this initial appt, with a courtesy car, had been made "just" 3 weeks ago. They reckon it can be done in an hour or so, which seems quick to me. As it happens, daughter doesn't works on Fridays so she can take the car in and wait - although service advisor was grumpy that she can't be there at 8.45 for a 9 o'clock appt due to taking her kids to school.

I have it on my Octavia iV as well. It first popped up sporadically. After a while, it popped up more frequently and I went to the dealer. It turns out it needs replacement. That will take place in July.

Yes, that was all made clear in the article. I'm only too well aware of the geography of Scotland being that I used to be a regular visitor up there for work.

@Graham Butcher Exactly, such a load of BS repeated over and over about stuff read and be it The Truth or a half truth or no truth. BS from those getting 2nd hand stories and something they heard from someone else.

And lastly @MartiniB I installed over the Audi release, you have to use SWDL manual download, start and select all and start to do that. Result success screen: Ofcourse if you were on 350 you'd install as you normally do. Since I already had 370 installed and it had said, yes you got it, for the hell of it and to respond to a question about whether 3D mapping was still in it, yes it is. Failed comparison someone had done between the combined normal mib1/2 high files as the mib2 high only one. So yes I reckon you can make a new thread.

It thinks you are driving with the handbrake on. Check the switch by the handbrake and its wiring.

Sometimes depending on the angle, the sun reflects especially on that chrome square frame of the console. Yes, beauty demands sacrifices.

nah, much more interesting to jump in in the middle and make it up

This any help? https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2022-1109/8/807-807000/ Just realised they have now blocked access to the part numbers, used to be free, but seems a fee is now required. Anyway, other than a car breaker, looks like it may be a dealer only part, as the model is quite new as yet.

Took ~20 mins from SD card in the car, all seems to be still working correctly, can't say I noticed any difference other than SW version number went from 1941 to 1969. Did make me nervous as dire warnings about not turning off the car while upgrade in process, but not sure if mine (an iV) would time out and go sleepy byes thus bricking everything, or stay awake. As it turned out, it stayed on and did the upgrade no issues. My random coolant low and electronic brum brum sound errors are probably coincidental, but no way to tell now!

12.18v is fine for a battery without the engine on, not so when running though when you should be seeing 13.5+ What, if anything, happens if you sound the horn whist actually driving?

I can understand that, the LBX is a small car so anyone 6'6" would find it a tight fit. As for the electronic "aids" the LBX makes it easy to turn them off to your configuration. Sadly all new cars have to be fitted with these aids by edict. In my opinion they are at the least annoying and can be positively dangerous, for instance by steering the car into danger rather than away from it. Another tick for the Yeti which doesn't have any such frippery.

Going by my own experience, start stop only works if the car has been in moving. If I were to start my car and just leave it in park then it will idle until switched off manually.

So max trailer weight is 3512-1912kg = 1600kg, which is slightly over the often mentioned 80% of vehicle weight guideline which would be 1529kg.

Well I live in Norway, and we have this weird kind of culture were we threat everyone like it is our own grandmother. We dont have the ability to see anything bad in anyone. We normally dont fight, steal or do anything bad. "Normally" 😆 Especially in the northern part, people tend to leave the car running outside of shops if they just going inside "to get something", either to keep it cool on a warm day, or warm during the cold winter, this happens more often during the winter. And normally people would leave our cars alone.

A simple 6 min job, why pay a mechanic to do it.

No problem. I got error that metadata can't be read properly. I have updated to MU 0369 and could't see any changes yet. I will try to update to MU 0480 later today and will give you feedback 👌

Fitting new blades and having a streakless windscreen brings me immense joy 🤣

I fixed the issue. The car tries to use the battery as much as possible to save fuel. Alternator isn't being used apart from engine braking (recuperation). When the car eventually has to charge the battery, it will do it in 150A pulses. This causes the idle revs to jump up and down. The engine has hard time keeping up with the 150A alternator load while maintaining steady idle. I solved this by coding the battery again. I have EFB battery and used EFB coding but this time I chose AGM coding. When I saved the settings, I immediately heard that idle changed. Now there's no more pulsating idle and charging is much more stable. I don't know if the EFB coding in my car is "broken" or if it just doesn't like EFB batteries. Or maybe charging the battery in pulses works faster. To my knowledge, EFB and AGM are pretty similar so I can use AGM coding without damaging the battery. And I really prefer having smooth idle rather than pulsating revs and shaking car. Even the Skoda authorized service didn't know what caused my rough idle. Fortunately I have my OBD11. I was worried that I might have bad injector or high pressure fuel pump but in the end I only had to change one setting to fix the issue. It took me a while to find the culprit though.

I have used rearguards for my 2019 scout. Just google “rearguards “

If you can find it, there was an option for a clear film for the rear bumper. Something like this?? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204620895296

What is the tread depth over 75% of tyre? Is the scrubbing on the inside edge? if depth getting close to 3mm, I'd say replace for confidence.

For now. 😄

Gandalf got a wash over the weekend after a 4 month dry spell 😁

I've never used ErWin, but someone did mention once that it cost 7 Euros for 1 hour's access...which apparently is enough to download your cars's factory options, ie. build codes. However, there's a seller on ebay who can supply the build codes for about 3 Euros. Search "skoda vin decoder" on ebay to find this listing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224631127243 You might also want to take a look at the following website which shows the Skoda approved rim sizes for the Superb MK3 https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?sort=priceAsc&q=%3AscoreDesc%3AcarType%3ASuperb%2BIII%2B%282015-2024%29&show=Page# Wheel sizes for Superb MK3 (16" wheels won't fit the Superb MK3 2.0TSI 272HP/280HP 4x4) 6.5Jx16 ET41 5/112 57.1 (215/60R16) 6.5Jx17 ET41 5/112 57.1 (215/55R17) 7Jx17 ET40 5/112 57.1 (215/55R17) 8Jx18 ET44 5/112 57.1 (235/45R18) 8Jx19 ET44 5/112 57.1 (235/40R19) You might also want to look at the car's CoC (Certificate of Conformity) which shows all the Skoda approved wheel sizes. Here's a couple of suggestions for the 17" tyre size. The 18" option won't ride as well as the narrower, higher profile 17" option. The 17" option will also be slightly more economical, ie. slightly better fuel consumption. Continental AllSeasonContact 2 215/55R17 94V (Euro label B B 70dB) (3PMSF) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m140b0s8825p220589/Continental_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Continental_Conti_All_Season_Contact_2_215_55_R17_94V_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Vredestein Ultrac 215/55R17 94W (Euro label C A 69dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m54b0s1714p210552/Vredestein_Tyres_Car_Vredestein_Ultrac_215_55_R17_94W_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_69dB Bear in mind that even into the early 1990's, some of the big Jaguar cars used 215/70R15 tyres...so the much lower profile 215/55R17 is going to be able to provide far more lateral grip than that tyre could...plus thirty years of tyre development. Outside diameter of tyre 215/70R15 682mm (2.0% bigger outside diameter compared to 215/55R17) 215/55R17 668.3mm Big Jag from around 1991 perhaps with 215/70R15 tyres https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaguar_XJ#/media/File:1992_Jaguar_Sovereign_4.0_Rear.jpg A non-standard 16" tyre option could be 205/65R16. Apart from the superb ride comfort, even better than 215/55R17...this tyre size fits in the spare wheel well without raising the carpet. The 205/65R16 tyre size could be fitted to the standard 16" rim size, ie. 6.5Jx16 ET41 5/112 57.1. Outside diameter of tyre 205/65R16 672.9mm (0.7% bigger outside diameter compared to 215/55R17) 215/55R17 668.3mm Vredestein Ultrac 205/65R16 95W (Euro label A A 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s2785p210548/Vredestein_Tyres_Car_Vredestein_Ultrac_205_65_R16_95W_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_A_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB 7Jx17 ET40 5/112 57.1 Ratikon alloy rims (from Kodiaq but same specification as Superb MK3) (11.1kg) 565071497A 8Z8 https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-ratikon-17-kodiaq/p/565071497A+8Z8 Here's four links to Michelin Primacy 4+ tyres in the standard 215/55R17 and 235/45R18 sizes, and slightly oversize 225/55R17 and 245/45R18 sizes...all with W (168mph/270km/h) speed ratings and XL (eXtra Load). They all have B A 70dB Euro labels. The Michelin Primacy is a summer touring tyre, so will give a smoother, quieter, more refined ride than an UHP (Ultra High Performance) summer tyre such as the Michelin Pilot Sport. The summer touring tyre will also tend to have a longer tread life than the UHP summer tyre. Outside diameter of tyre 215/55R17 668.3mm 225/55R17 679.3mm (1.3% bigger outside diameter compared to 235/40R19) 235/45R18 668.7mm 245/45R18 677.7mm (1.1% bigger outside diameter compared to 235/40R19) Michelin Primacy 4+ 215/55R17 98W XL (Euro label B A 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m54b0s1714p210232/Michelin_Tyres_Car_Michelin_Primacy_4%2B_215_55_R17_98W_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Michelin Primacy 4+ 225/55R17 101W XL (Euro label B A 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m54b0s466p210230/Michelin_Tyres_Car_Michelin_Primacy_4%2B_225_55_R17_101W_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Michelin Primacy 4+ 235/45R18 98W XL (Euro label B A 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m61b0s2057p210225/Michelin_Tyres_Car_Michelin_Primacy_4%2B_235_45_R18_98W_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Michelin Primacy 4+ 245/45R18 100W XL (Euro label B A 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m61b0s315p209227/Michelin_Tyres_Car_Michelin_Primacy_4%2B_245_45_R18_100W_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB

A little bit grainy due to high ISO setting as it was pretty dark at the time.

Right. And then one gives a tiny blip to the loud pedal and you’re coasting again. EDIT - yep, zaklee what ^^ said!

I’ve used wireless CarPlay successfully for over two years. No issues other than very early on when it wouldn’t auto-reconnect - fixed ages ago with an update to the car. It is worth noting that the car to iPhone connection is either CarPlay (Smartlink) or ‘traditional’ Bluetooth (where the car reads the contacts etc from the phone and effectively is the controller for the phone). With CarPlay, everything is done via the touchscreen or, preferably, using Siri. So, if your iPhone is connected with CarPlay then the Bluetooth Telephone connection will be unavailable.