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Mission accomplished - MIB2 to MIB2.5 conversion on Gandalf! The whole process was quite easy to do. Those with a MIB2 unit, aka Columbus (Harman version) with 8" screen can do the upgrade. i.e. MY15 to MY17. No need to change the glovebox head unit. Just the screen. I sourced a secondhand 9.2" Screen from a MY18 Superb being wrecked. Got the G11 to G13 firmware conversion from mibsolution. Then once done, reinstalled the latest maps. I'll need getting used to where the things r cause there r no more physical buttons. Will do a how-to-guide soon. Fits in nice & solid, however there is a gap at the top behind the top of the screen and the trim piece. U can't see it unless u look through the windscreen. I'll look into sourcing this trim piece in the near future.

Sounds like you've already solved all the things that needed attention.

Is there even a wear indicator on an offside front brake pad? Usually on inner pad of nearside front? Edit: wiring diagram says there is, front right looks like the only one on S3.

https://bookmygarage.com/blog/will-worn-brake-pads-lead-to-mot-failure/#:~:text=If your brake pads are,a reason for MOT failure. According to this, 1.5mm pad thickness is the criteria and not the warning light. Pretty recent article so should be fairly accurate. Maybe worth calling them out on it armed with knowledge and a little bravado, I personally think they are trying to make a mug out of you. You can also dispute their decision too I believe but not sure how long winded that would be.

😲 After very nearly 10 years of my faithful Polo; a pal is selling a 57-plate Audi A4 estate with just 107k miles, 1.9 TDI and I am thinking it will be my next car, quite soon! Will feel terrible to lose the Polo, but no room to keep it. Partner wants to hang onto her 05 Fabia, and we'll each drive whichever is most appropriate for the day's journey or task. New house means we're both further away from jobs and friends, so a mile-muncher makes a lot of sense. Never owned a diesel before, but this one is pre-DPF and overcomplicated, inaccessible EGRs; so should be OK to maintain in good health. Didn't see that coming. Although a workmate with a similar commute did say as soon as I moved that I'd be wanting a better/comfier/longer-legged car, which I dismissed in my head at the time.

Just collected today. 6000 kilometres showing and very happy after a few hours behind the wheel. mk111 , I assume but registered Feb this year. Pleased to say it has all of the kit I wanted, inc reversing camera, heated seats, heated steering wheel. In fact the only (very small) thing missing is wireless charging. Sure I will get over it !

Standard & Wide views on my 2024 SE-L

Then they are wrong, like all (AFAIK) Octavia 3's your car has a BMS (Battery Management System) and start/stop, which means whenever the battery is changed the BMS must be informed of the battery change i.e. coded. If the battery is the same Ah capacity and type then all that's needed is to change one digit in the serial number.

ECU faults almost never happen. Wiring faults often happen.

Mission accomplished - MIB2 to MIB2.5 conversion on Gandalf! The whole process was quite easy to do. Those with a MIB2 unit, aka Columbus (Harman version) with 8" screen can do the upgrade. i.e. MY15 to MY17. No need to change the glovebox head unit. Just the screen. I sourced a secondhand 9.2" Screen from a MY18 Superb being wrecked. Got the G11 to G13 firmware conversion from mibsolution. Then once done, reinstalled the latest maps. I'll need getting used to where the things r cause there r no more physical buttons. Will do a how-to-guide soon. The trim piece is not flush behind the top of the screen though, but u don't notice it unless u look through the windscreen. Will need to sort this trim piece at some point in the future.

Might be slit where the clip goes around the boot or just about to go, to be sure you will need to put the car on a full right lock and then jack up the car to allow wheel to turn and rotate the wheel around also give it a good clean with a damp cloth with a little silicone spray on the cloth you will then see if it's split or leaking,if it's not leaking you might get it through an mot depending on the tester

I would take my chances & drive it from the dealer to the garage of your choice. If the brakes were working fine when you drove it there, they will be working fine for 2km more. Pads worn to the indicators still have material on them. There is a risk you'll scratch the disks if you don't replace sooner then later but again 2km won't destroy them.

Yes, I do too. Like you, I didn't notice it to start with. Probably took me a couple of months! Having said that, I think it might be possible to move the camera direction slightly by applying finger pressure and attempting to move the outer transparent surface. I haven't deliberately tried this as I don't want to spoil the current set-up. As a 'reversing camera sceptic', I am completely won over through using it to couple my boat trailer as I can now position the tow-ball so precisely that all I have to do is lower the trailer socket vertically to engage it. Absolute boon with a heavy boat.

Not really a Fabia post per-se, and I appreciate there's already lots of historic content on here about ways to deal with a locked Symphony unit, but this is a particular request for recommendations for online services that claim to provide unlock codes for a fee (-I can't find any free services !). I've tried the usual suggested 'disconnect-the-battery'-type workarounds, and the 'convenience' method of first starting the ignition then the radio, to no avail, and my local Skoda dealer has quoted £72 for 30 mins work to reset it, which sounds berserk .. so an online codes provider might suddenly be an option. Thanks in advance.

its fine with the new cylinder when its off the car will find out tomorrow when the cylinder and pedal get fitted back onto the car.

Not really sure why you've posted that vid, sorry.

Make sure auto brake = off, back into the garage and keep hand well away from the switch. If I accidentally pull the switch (force of habit) then drive forward a little, back up and resist the temptation to pull the switch, again.

Yes - turns out some of the comments I've made in this thread are exactly the same as yours in 2019! Odd that some posters in that thread say their's has always been like that, then a few say their's has changed. It does seem like the view is now a combination of the wide angle and tow ball view. To be honest, we don't use the camera much - even my wife prefers to look around - so it doesn't bother us, it's just a bit weird that it seems to have changed. We mostly use it when backing off the drive (as shown in the image I uploaded) as we have the village school in our road and so there can be quite a lot of people walking back and forth, so the wider the view the better. I might ask the dealer next time the car is in, but it's one of those things where I know they'll act dumb (they're very good at that!). ETA: Bit of Googling finds a thread where VW California (the van thing) owners are saying the same thing. No conclusion though.

If it's not been done but driving OK now, would it be worth buying and getting it done? It's not a main dealer selling the car.

Nice and classy upgrade ! Also much easier to clean! No dust in the small gaps around buttons anymore.

Thanks @Ootohere This is helpful.

A DQ200 DSG does not need Oil Changes for peace of mind. Leave well alone.

Thank you both for your replies and for the info and @Ootohere about the type of clutch on the car. Hopefully this is one of the more reliable ones since the issues in the previous decade? The car is just out of warranty so I will have a 30 day no claim period before this new one kicks in. The All In bundle (2 services, 2 MOT, 2 years Roadside assistance, 2 years warranty) is currently at £30 per month for 24 months. The "All-in Warranty covers almost all mechanical and electrical component failure on your vehicle" before listing the exclusions including "Wear and tear* of clutch component: clutch pressure plates, bearing and disc.". Since the car is only 3 years old with less than 20K miles (I pretty much do only 6K miles per year with it), hopefully any issues with the DSG would be difficult to exclude under wear and tear? The Spark Plugs, Pollen Filter and Air Filter are all included with this service plan but Brake fluid is excluded (cost of £65 VAT included). Guess the DSG oil change does not need to be changed at the 4 year year mark based on the type of clutch mentioned above but I may do it for peace of mind. If I did so, what time frame or amount of miles would you recommend it doing? Also, I read somewhere on this forum, that while the Haldex oil change is never mentioned by Skoda dealerships, that it may be a good idea to do so. If so, when do you recommend it done? The All In Service plan has a 3 year period from start date to end date. I imagine that if you do not service the car based on the annual recommendations from Skoda, the warranty would be ineffective per the servicing clause. "Servicing – To ensure that your vehicle is maintained in good condition, it should be serviced in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. If it is not, we cannot be held responsible for any faults it may develop which could be attributed to the lack of service or maintenance. For this Warranty to remain valid, each service must be completed within 500 miles of the mileage recommended by the manufacturer or within four weeks of the recommended time period, whichever occurs first. If you fail to have your vehicle serviced in accordance with the manufacturers specification, cover will still apply for components which are not connected to vehicle servicing." The way I break it down is that servicing the car will generally cost me £480 to do over the next two years at a local independent shop (without brake fluid), the two MOT will generally cost around £50 a year, and the two year roadside assistance around £100 per year. So signing up with the dealer for £720 is not a bad deal in itself if the car is reliable and does not need much to be done to it (repair wise) with the warranty coming as a freebee. The main question mark is how good that warranty is? Guess time will tell. Anyways, sorry about all the questions. My car knowledge is very limited but trying to understand it better thanks to you guys.

I’m looking at Standard SE L spec with no options. I spoke to a dealer and they’ve said it’s currently 12 weeks so an order now would arrive towards the end of November.

The Fabia Mk 4 Owner's Manual includes a discrete section headed "Boot lid - with manual operation" and I've copied this below. As advised in the postings above, to unlock the boot lid the key-fob's centre button needs to be held down for roughly 2 seconds, and the only indication that unlocking has occurred is that the car's turn-signal lights will flash twice. If the boot lid's handle is then not pressed to release the lid, the boot lid will re-lock after 2 minutes (120 seconds) and the car's turn-signal lights will flash once to confirm this has happened. If the boot lid's handle is pressed to release the lock and lift the lid, when the lid is next shut properly re-locking will take place immediately and the car's turn-signal lights will flashing once as confirmation. There's a risk with this arrangement that an owner might lock the key-fob in the boot and (apparently) a Skoda dealership can program in a delay between the lid's closure and it actually locking. This 'delay' capability was discussed in a 2019 Karoq sub-forum thread (link below) and I assume current Fabias' locking could similarly be tweaked. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/462682-tailgate-lock-delay-question/ My 2009 Roomster's key-fob's centre button operates in the same way, except a) there's a very audible 'clunk' after the button has been held down for a couple of seconds and b) the boot lid then physically disengages from its lock and can now be lifted without pressing its handle. This is more convenient, though it does mean that the boot can only automatically re-lock when the lid is next slammed shut.

I've PM'd you

On my Kodiaq, suspect Karoq the same, you could change the camera operation using the icons down RH side of the display. Options are parallel parking guidelines, parking in supermarkets space guidelines, tow hitch assistance where camera looks down on tow bar, and reverse out of space option where you get a wide angle fisheye view . Sounds like you may have inadvertently selected this option.

https://www.theaa.com/mot/advice/what-do-i-do-if-my-mot-fails

It was the service desk. I'll follow what they recommend as it will always be serviced there. Anyway, we always gotten good service at this dealer for well over the past 14 years with at least 7 cars bought there by family members. They also know I'm fairly awkward and they know NOT to wash my cars......

- A/C compressor is driven by the engine, but the fan does use electrical power, more so, should you turn it up higher. - It's normal on modern cars for there to be higher static battery drain - things like remote door locks need to have a receiver listening for a signal, and possibly some other electronics are running. Thus, cars left undriven for weeks, really do need charging (or driving!) - Batteries that are usually used on cars with smart alternators (almost all cars now) and stop start-systems are often coded because the cars computer makes a guess about the age of the battery, and number of starts if has done, in order to allow fewer stop-start cycles as the battery ages, and may choose to turn the smart alternator on a bit more often. Putting in a new code with a new battery tells the system the battery is new, or has slightly different characteristics for optimized smart charging. - Battery voltage is not a perfect guide for understanding its true condition - sure, if a battery under zero load presents 12.7V or more (+/- some), it's probably going to start the car. It is a well-known thing that even if the battery cranks the engine, the voltage presented to the electronics can drop to a level so that the electronics malfunction and the car may not start, and even weird faults show up, like the radio thinking it has been rejected by the ECU. This is common on Up!/Citigo models, being a budget car - the electronics don't use an Up/Down DC-DC converter to keep a minimum voltage applied to the supply to the electronics (with a DC-DC converter, even say 8V would be converted to the necessary 12V). Anyone with caravan/MH leisure batteries knows why Up-Down DC-DC is needed! - Last point - don't disconnect the battery voltage sensor. It's a false saving on reducing battery wear with stop-start - you use far more costly fuel over time, than the value of the marginal "life elongation" of the battery. Besides, Up/Citogo engines are very easy starters, and a very low-load on the battery by design...

meets the thread title requirements and enough change to buy something a bit different

Friend of mine has just passed 600k in his '02 model and it's showing no signs of giving up any time soon. He is a mechanic, so it's been looked after (aside from never cleaning the interior) and just shows what you can do if you follow the maintenance schedule. You will likely find the glove box door has snapped off, and the cup holders are broken, but both have easy-fix kits on eBay to get them working again.

Sorry can't help guys and I suspect the only way you will find out is to drop the headling. After owning two VAG cars with Pan Roofs and having issues with each I'll never have another. It's why this Karoq is an SEL without panroof. The last repair I had cost £2500

Well finally I have ordered the wheels for the Scala ! We have plumped for Alaris 16" in black metallic (I think they would look nicer than silver on a Monte Carlo). Not a bad price, £667 for 4. It is just a case of how long I have to wait now, they are a special order as they are already on back order ! I was told 2-3 working weeks, so fingers crossed. Once they are here I'll get the tyres ordered.

UPDATE After scan I got a bunch of passive errors related to tire management, ESC, alternator (start&stop), front assist, etc. because of all the dashboard lights as shown on the comments before. However, only 3 active errors appear, my right front light that needs changing, key battery low and Engine Rotation Sensor - no signal, code P0322. So from what I understood, with this error the car gets in safe mode and disables everything related to traction control and safety things like front assist, a little weird but ok! Wiil see if I can change it at home and update here.

I thankyou Sir , holding for 2 secs unlocked the boot and the lights flashed. Thankyou very much.

The middle button will open just the boot, but you have to keep the button depressed for a couple of seconds. Just pressing it quickly won't do anything, It's a precaution against accidently pressing it when you lock your car. I had this experience when I had my Fabia. Thought it was a fault and spoke to the dealer. He came up with a load of crap about it being something to do with the basic Kessy system. He reckoned that because I didn't have the full Kessy system where you can lock your car by just touching the door handle, it "disabled" the boot unlocking on the key fob. I went along with that for 5 months until I saw a post on this forum that told me about pressing the boot release tab on the fob for a couple of seconds.

I'm genuinely having trouble telling cars apart these days the designs are so similar and deadly dull. thise LEDs will be a PITA to change (and no doubt very expensive) if they break or get nudged.

It turned out there was water getting in to where the plug goes, it was running off the windscreen when it rained I dried it out and all the lights went off been running fine and no lights since I stopped the water getting in. I forgot to update post at the time.

We both test drove it this evening. All good, so going to take it off his hands in a couple of weeks' time. Needs rear brakes, but I'm happy to sort that myself. Anyone want a Polo?

Yes, your car has PR code 0EG which is defined as 'installation differentiation for transmission DQ200', Transmission code is UYV (gearbox code within the DQ200 family).

Just thought I would add my experience with replacing electric tailgate struts to my 2012 Combi. The originals had lasted 12 years and had gradually given up. First not working in the cold but only in the warm. Then not working at all requiring manually lifting and closing the tailgate. Like others I arrived at eBay with plenty to choose from ranging in price from £113/pair to more than double. Most came with a 1 year warranty, the one seller who was double the price was offering a 10 year warranty. Having read the small print the warranty was with the seller and not the manufacturer. The T's & C's stipulated that they had to be fitted by a registered garage, fully receipted etc etc. There was plenty of small print giving the seller a way out if the terms were not met. One that basis I decided to take the punt on a pair at £116. I choose a seller with a long history of trading (10+ years) and good feedback. I must say they were easy to fit taking no more than 30 mins for the pair and worked straight out of the box. No coding required, no fault codes to reset, easy peasey. Only time will tell if they are a good buy, but after a month they are working just great. I can't remember them being as quiet even when I bought the car when it was 3 years old. As far as I am concerned a success story. As I said an anecdotal experience for those undecided as to which way to go.

I haven't finished yet but it's much better than before -

Hello Paul, welcome to the forum. Certainly worth a try, do the pump seals and bearings look OK? Simply fitting a new pump without addressing the seal face would probably not work anyway.

New ARB collar bolts, the old ones were pretty crusty and although came out OK I wouldnt want to use them again. Most of the underside is pretty crusty and at some point Ill need to start thinking about various arms, bushes and the subframes itself. Until that day, on with the mods! Next on the list is an APR billet steel dogbone insert and when I have a good day to do it a full machine polish.

The new ARB is lighter than the original and its obviously cheaper for the VAG group to fit a solid bar to the VRS rather than a hollow bar. If they did it for any other reason Id find this strange as theres not really a direct competitor in the VAG range to the VRS. The MK7 Golf R/Leon Cupra will handle completely differently due to being AWD and is also smaller. Anything Audi will be priced above and has a different suspension setup. Reflecting on the drive back, it certainly has made the car more neutral and balanced. Before it was dragging its backside around the corners feeling like it was being pulled from the front, now it doesnt feel so much that.

Looks like too much expectations. There are cars with a/c sharp as razor, but not in this price segment. Turn on recirculation when it is 40C outside.

Yeah that's normal for that service. Will PM a file link over.

Surely! I tried to google and use my VIN number with skoda portal but it says that "there were no software updates for the VIN".