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Hello, welcome to the forum. There is another cause for 'sloshing' sounds when braking - check the lower door seals, especially on the rear doors. The drain holes in the lower seal can block, resulting in a surprising amount of water being trapped in the doors. Gently run fingers along and between the seal lips and see if this is the case.

Check for binding brakes or failing bearing on front right wheel.

Just checked rear door,there was a substantial amount of water in it,could hear it sloshing about when I opened door,drained it off,thanks

Col, 8 years is nothing, and we bought a 'new' 7 year old one earlier in the year. My other half insisted on another and I know why. If you are 77, your Yeti will run happily until 2037 (20 years old, parts supply will be fine) and you will be 77+13=90 in 2037. Just keep the anti-rust going for you and the car 😀

Here is a link to current Skoda wheels brochure Includes Superb III (mark 3) and IV (mark 4) All the sizes, with pictures and part numbers are there https://www.skoda-auto.com/_doc/6d5c59b3-5d97-451a-ab78-2ef185e6e373

ATE ceramics is what you need

I am another person who uses 16 inch with winter tyres, and 18 inch with summer tyres. Not on a Karoq, but on my Seat Arona (which is closer to Kamiq). To be honest, I prefer driving with the 16 inches (205/60 R16) , they are lot more comfortable on rutted road surfaces (and we have lots of those on A, B and lesser roads in our rural part of the country). The tyres that came with the car 215/45 R18 Pirelli P7s are harsh to drive on any poor tarmac. Obviously on motorways and main roads without sharp corners, the different sharpness on tight turning makes no difference. I tend to notice that sharp turns do not feel as tight when I change the wheels from 18 to 16, but within hour or two forget about it as become used to it. I am now 60 years old, get bit stiff if do too much physical work, so prefer comfort of the smaller wheels, and have no desperation to shave a few hundreds of a second off each corner on a journey. As temperatures fall, and on cooler damp mornings (before I swapped them about 10 days ago), the reverse is true on corners, the winter tyres grip consistently (mine are Goodyear Ultragrip 9+), but the summer Pirelli P7s were skittish in the damp and cool. To be fair the Pirelli's are down to 3-3.5mm tread, whereas the winters have 5-6mm so deal with cold rain and muddy field run off much better (and local farmers seem to put lots of clay slimy mud on roads too). My (personal) opinion is if changing 2 inches (and between 45 and 60 profile) works on my Arona, the same 2 inch change (with profile moving less from 50 to 60) is not going to be a problem on the Karoq, especially as Karoq has 4 sizes (16, 17, 18, 19 inch wheels), whereas Arona only has 3 (16, 17, 18 inch) so I'm changing between biggest and smallest, but you are only changing two thirds of size range https://www.skoda-auto.com/_doc/6d5c59b3-5d97-451a-ab78-2ef185e6e373 All the sizes for current models (including Elroq, so is upto date) are on the link

It's the sort of sound they make when the pads are almost but not quite being applied firm enough to the discs. I don't think pad wear would do this, but if the rear handbrake mechanism on one or both sides is slightly corroded it might make it stiff enough to be hard to apply fully with the handbrake lever. In my experience the Yeti system needs a firm pull and is more effort to apply than other cars. One technique you could try is to "stand" on the footbrake as you apply the handbrake. This uses the footbrake hydraulic pressure to get the pads to grip well, so the application of the handbrake lever only has to "take up the slack" and not be trying to apply the pads as well.

Progress has been slow, i fixed all the door leaks + the lhd bonnet release grommet as in previous post but carpet was still moist, i ripped the whole interior out to see where it was coming from and it turned out to be the rhd bonnet release grommet and the electrical box cover... I cleaned the scuttle panel area up, cleaned both the electrical box and cable grommet and reinstalled both using windscreen adhesive. If they both leak again, ill buy a new lid and replace the cable grommet with a cable gland... I also realised that you can have a leak at the rear footwell even though the actual the leak is coming from the front because of the way the floor pan is built, it just allows water to travel all the way to the back. I created little 'dams' with windscreen adhesive to stop the leak spreading if it ever happens again: Finally, i threw all of the factory sound proofing and carpets away. I left the car for a few days in Welsh rain and wind and came back, it was all dry. I proceeded with installing 30 2.3mm thick bitumen mats on the floor pan: I will then use carpet underlay and layer as much of it as i can before fitting the main carpet. The eagle eyed of you will spot i also removed my android head unit and installed an MFD1... more on that later.

Database is maintained by Phonostar.de and Škoda doesn't hide that but one of their answer sounded similar to . . . "Škoda's users don't have to contact to Phonostar" . . . life hack, if you have any questions to stations @ phonostar.de, write them as VW user updates can be downloaded from https://www.phonostar.de/vw/en/download https://www.phonostar.de/vw/de/download by enter VW's head units part number Mib2 (Superb Mk3 and similar) Golf Mk7.5 3Q0 035 824 C "FM2-H-*-EU-SE-MQB" "FM2-H-*-EU-SK-MQB" "FM2-H-*-EU-VW-MQB" "FM2-H-*-RW-SK-MQB" "FM2-H-*-RW-VW-MQB" Content Downloadable Size 2023.11.09 2023.12.13 89 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB2_Europe_v1.10.48.zip 2024.07.17 2024.08.05 93 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB2_Europe_v1.10.52.zip 2025.07.07 2025.07.08 93 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB2_Europe_v1.10.60.zip 2025.12.01 2026.03.09 95 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB2_Europe_v1.10.64.zip Mib3 (Superb Mk3.FL and similar) Tiguan 3G5 035 820 Q "FM3-E3-DWBC4-EU-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBC4-EU-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBC4-EU-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-WBC4-RW-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-WBC4-RW-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-WBC4-RW-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-WBC4-US-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-EU-FO-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-EU-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-EU-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-W2-FO-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-W2-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-W2-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-HWBC4-RW-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EE-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EE-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-R2-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-R2-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-RW-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-RW-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W2-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W2-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W3-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EE-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EE-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EU-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EU-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-R2-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-R2-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-RW-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-RW-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W2-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W2-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W3-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-RW-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-RW-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EE-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EE-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EU-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EU-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-RW-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-RW-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-W2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-W2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-R2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-R2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-RW-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-RW-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W3-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EE-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EE-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EE-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-R2-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-R2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-R2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-RW-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-RW-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-W2-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-W2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-W2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-R2-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-R2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-R2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W2-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W3-SK-MQB-PC" Content Downloadable Size 2023.12.20 2023.12.20 162 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.48b.zip 2024.05.17 2024.11.07 1,13 GB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.50.zip 2025.01.14 2025.02.20 166 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_NonGP_JND_Europe_v1.31.56.zip 2025.01.08 2025.05.26 833 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.56.zip 2025.03.19 2025.06.11 167 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.58.zip 2026.02.16 2026.03.09 174 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_JND_Europe_v1.31.64.zip Mib3 (Multivan) Multiv. 5H0 035 816 S "FM3-*-*-EU-SK-*-LG", "FM3-*-*-RW-SK-*-LG", "FM3-*-*-W2-SK-*-LG", "FM3-*-*-EU-VW-*-LG", "FM3-*-*-RW-VW-*-LG", "FM3-*-*-W2-VW-*-LG" Content Downloadable Size Vers 2024.10.07 2024.11.07 167 MB 2024Q4 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.54.zip 2024.11.12 2025.01.14 166 MB 2024Q4 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.56.zip 2025.03.19 2025.05.26 167 MB 2025Q1 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.58.zip 2026.01.29 2026.03.09 174 MB 2026Q1 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.64.zip Mib? (Enyaq, ID* and ??) ID.4 10A 035 816 R "I31-*-*-EU-SK-MEB-LG", "I31-*-*-EU-VW-MEB-LG" Content Downloadable Size Vers 2023.11.09 2023.12.13 162 MB 2023Q4 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/ICAS3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.48.zip 2024.07.15 2024.08.05 167 MB 2024Q3 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/ICAS3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.52.zip 2024.11.12 2025.01.14 166 MB 2024Q4 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/ICAS3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.56.zip 2025.03.19 2025.05.26 167 MB 2025Q1 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/ICAS3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.58.zip 2026.01.29 2026.03.09 174 MB 2026Q1 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/ICAS3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.64.zip update instructions: Mib2 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB2_Stationlogos_CustomerUpdate.pdf Mib3 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_Stationlogos_CustomerUpdate.pdf Mib3+ https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/37W_Stationlogos_CustomerUpdate.pdf from the factory mine 2023.01 Mib3 Amundsen had database v1.30.36. and 14 of 29 Riga's FM stations had none logo, what especially annoyed, because all Mib3 and newer head units have lost option of manual upload logos, what were possible in my previous 2016.02 Mib2H Columbus -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/415291-columbus-radio-icons/ with new database only 7 of 29 are missing, missing stations are equal in both tested databases (Superb Mk3.FL and Enyaq) but last one contains more relevant logos -> solution Superb Mk3.FL 2023 Enyaq 2022

Hello I just became an owner of a spanking new Octavia vRS mk 4.5 and I'd like to share my first impressions but before that a bit of a background story. Last year I was looking for a new car to replace my Ford Mondeo Titanium S from 2009. It served me well but it was time for something newer. I guess my criteria mostly were that the car had to be practical but also a bit sportier than the previous one. Initially I was looking at Cupra Leon Sportstourers (also estate) but I was eventually mesmerised by a velvet red Octavia RS mk4 liftback. I thought I got a pretty nice deal on it as it was just barely used (~3000 km), so no new car tax to pay for me anymore, and it had ton of extra equipment as well. I was super happy with it. Then in February the facelift was announced and I admit that I didn't think much of the RS facelift at that moment. I was definitely thinking that the front lights were cooler on my current RS, I mean the fog-lights were a separate unit and the front bumper was also much more aggressive and edgier. Also nothing really bothered me too much about the infotainment system. But....as time passed the design of the facelift had started growing on me and in addition some of the improvements here and there (a bit more power, newer infotainment system). And by July I managed to convince myself that I want the facelift RS, so I ordered one! It arrived at the end of September. However, by that time I still hadn't found a new owner for my mk4. I had some offers but nothing good enough yet so I asked the dealership to wait a bit and give me more time to sell my mk4. Then I finally found a buyer and told the dealership as well that I'm now ready to receive the new car. But I guess I jumped the gun there a bit as the deal to sell the old car hasn't been quite finalised yet. So that means that I'm in a unique position where I currently own a mk4 Octavia vRS and a brand new mk4.5 Octavia vRS and they are both velvet red! But it's a good opportunity to compare them. So finally, here are my thoughts on the differences: The specs Both of my cars have a ton of extra equipment but there are slight differences (just some quality of life extras really). I really liked the extra features on the old car so I mostly copied them when speccing the new car as well. But most notable ones: Both cars are liftbacks Both are velvet red mk4.5 has 20 extra horse power but cannot test it yet if I can actually feel the difference (still break-in period) Both have DCC, Adaptive Lane Assist Both have Suedia (leather) seats (as part of Challenge Plus package on the old mk4, separate option on mk4.5) Both have 19" wheels (Altair on mk4, Elias on mk4.5) Both have a Heads Up display Navigation was a separate option on mk4 but I think it's part of the base RS spec now. I couldn't spec preheating for mk4.5 in my region (wasn't available in the spec sheet and still isn't in the configurator) I added Canton sound system on the mk4.5 (yet to review it properly) Exterior The biggest difference between mk4 and mk4.5 is the front part of the car (as you've probably seen from pictures yourself). As I also mentioned above, it took some time for the new design to grow on me but I really like it now. The rear lights are also a bit different (the shape/light bar of the turning signal is now horistinal and straight, see picture). Also the stripes/trails within the rear lights seem to be illuminated (more). The design of the 19" wheels is different. I don't like the aero cover (or however you call it). I think the Elias wheels look much better without it so I removed the covers. However, beware that if you decide to remove the covers you need to purchase a set of centre caps and lug nut covers. Otherwise it's a bit ugly still. the vRS logo is different, I think the new one is better in the sense that you can actually understand that it says vRS (I remember one of my friends asking what VIRS means and the old logo can absolutely be misinterpreted that way) Door sill protectors have "Octavia" written on the, not vRS. Interior Interior design is mostly the same but there are more and less noticeable differences: The biggest difference (literally) is the size of the infotainment screen. It's 13" on the new one vs 10" on the old one. However, the larger screen size is in any way disturbing. The upper edge is still below the dashboard and isn't blocking the view in any way. Coupled with the upgraded infotainment system it's a really nice upgrade. Some of grey coloured pieces (door handle, the plastic around the gear shifter, rotating knobs on the steering wheel) is dull/matte whereis it was shiny on mk4. The design of the wireless charging pad/compartment has changed a bit and it feels like it's holding the phone a bit better in place. The icons on the physical buttons have changed a bit. Infotainment system/Virtual cockpit That's the big change on the inside and in short, the improvement is huge. The infotainment system is very responsive. The new style feels a bit more modern The digital instrument cluster is a more customisable as well (The right arrow on the steering wheel now switches between different display modes eg map, trip info, gear info (D, S, M), while the left one chooses between display style (with tacho and speedometer or without) No custom vRS animation on the instrument cluster when entering the car anymore, it's mostly black with SKODA fading in. 😞 The gear information (D, S1-S7 etc) can now be displayed with a huge font between the tacho and speedometer (vs being displayed in the bottom left corner on mk4). That's super awesome now. The normal gearbox mode (D) will still display only D and not D1-D7. The Adaptive Lane Assist button is now gone from the steering wheel but the option to switch to it from ACC is now hidden in the same menu (left upper button on the right side of the steering wheel). When I first saw that the button is missing I thought that they forgot to install it and actually had to double check that it's there. There's now always an indicator bar visible in the speedometer dial that shows how much range you have left to go, so now you can select something else to display in your speedometer dial. The physical button for selecting your driving modes now toggles through driving modes, that's nice! There's a ton of customisable shortcuts at the top and at the bottom of the screen (eg can set shortcuts for car, assists, lane assist, heated front windshield at the top; media, phone, navigation, android auto/carplay shortcuts at the bottom) The widgets on the infotainment screen are slightly less customisable but that doesn't really bother me: there's a couple of templates that you select from when creating pages/screens, previously you had more freedom here. I wish the HOME button was slightly bigger though. It was easier to press it on mk4 infotainment screen as it was actually a separate "button" on the left of the screen in mk4. Now it's an icon on the screen. The style of the integrated navigation system feels more modern but haven't used it that much as I'm more of an Android Auto user. Audio As mentioned, my new mk4.5 has Canton sound system. My initial reaction is that's it's not much of an improvement (still), let's see if I can figure out some good settings for it. I did have to check whether the subwoofer (squeezed into the spare wheel compartment) actually worked. Yeah, you can feel and here the vibration when you open the boot but not that much in the driver's seat. I do hope that the only result of the subwoofer won't be the body panels falling off in the back and that I can at least feel the bass when that's happening. There is an extra setting to adjust the subwoofer in the Sound menu. So in short, default settings seem a bit lacklustre but I still need to play around with settings before drawing a final conclusion. Some missing features/changes I've encountered some inconveniences on the new mk4.5 (not a deal breaker though) I think the biggest feature that's missing on the mk4.5 and that I found quite useful as well is the lack keyless lock/unlock on the rear doors. In other words, when you previously could unlock the car by just pulling the read door handles and it would unlock (and could also lock it using rear doors) then that's now gone. You have to take an extra step to touch the front door handle. Another annoyance that I found is that the speed limit warning is turned on each time you switch on the ignition. Unfortunately that's done so to comply with legislations (manual says so). However, Skoda did add a shortcut to disable it quickly (same button and place where you can disable Lane Assist). However, not all has been perfect! When I logged in with my Skoda account into the car and added myself as the main user, it wanted to load some settings which I assume were from the mk4. It did load my seat position but also a lot of icons appeared in the infotainment menu that were just loading (had the loading animation). Perhaps there's a more clever way to solve the issues but I eventually deleted and recreated my Skoda account. I took the car for a first proper drive over the weekend and had a yellow/amber "Emission control system fault" icon appear in the instrument cluster. No errors/warnings in the infotainment menu (status is fine there) as well and car drives fine as well. I plugged in my bluetooth OBD scanner to see what it comes up with and it reported fault codes P2080 (P2080 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1) and P2084 (P2080 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 Sensor 2). So now I'm taking it back to the dealership. I hope it's just an improperly installed sensor (as per repair manual it seems that both sensors are wired into the same connector) but let's see. That's it for now. Feel free to ask questions and I'll try to answer them. And some pictures as well:

I thought this was the answer.... No they wont swap.

Probably not if all doors unlocking is set. How would you lock the passenger doors with a key being used in the drivers door (and lock the boot)? Unlock the car with the keyfob. Pull the bonnet release latch. Lock the car with the keyfob. Remove the battery. Close the bonnet. Car is now fully locked. To unlock. Use the key in the drivers door to open the deadlock. Pull the bonnet release latch. Replace the battery. All good again.

Can you not remove the battery then lock the car with the metal key?

Thank you for this Pete. I had seen that video and seeing it again shows me I have done nothing wrong but just can't clip it in place. Possibly impatience or hamfistedness on my part lol. Anyway thank you once again. Cliff

Never had the issue myself in all the years I’ve been using them, but did have a friend who had the same issue as yourself with one set he fitted. Think EBC acknowledged the issue and accredited it to a change in manufacturing process, apologised, and replaced the pads without issue. Has never happened again on him. the ferrodo are a fantastic pad as well. Have fitted plenty of them to R, GTI, S, and RS type vehicles, all with brilliant results. Hope you get the knock sorted. Nothing like a noise you shouldn’t have to P*** you right off.

@cycleliferob Looking forward to seeing the video of the cars with faults Skoda are building and selling if shows knocking. Service Reception staff might as well work in a Comedy Club. Ask the beaut you spoke to what Motor Engineering qualifications they have, or anything other than a NVQ keyboard and communications skills.

as warrior says Check your rear door seals ,pull em from bottom of door ,its usually that you can hear sloshing about ,they do hold a good amount of water if blocked ,i thought it was my fuel tank too ,if it is the doors give them a good wash and clean underneath too .

Good choice actually. fitted these to my mums car and the brake dust is very minimal. compared to the oe pads which have to be cleaned off every week (granted the grooved discs don’t help this)

I can't see the tax going up much in yours. Ours is £200 which isn't bad when you look at some older cars costing £735 a year. Also, My newer Audi is just coming up to 4 years old and I still have to pay another year at £600+ because the original owner paid over £40k new. It doesn't drop to £180 until its 5 years old, so it clearly has beggar all to do with emissions !

So no Sprint filter. ______________________ It's the 3rd aftermarket wheel that i have, i have use to them all these years and i never liked the factory one. This is 320mm which means a little bit tougher to handle but it helps me a lot in the turns, has positions for thumbs and is not slippery. Those 2 grooves in ''10 to 2'' position are very helpful, sometimes in the highway i rest my middle fingers on them. I can reach normaly the two levers as in the factory, take a look the original is not flat, that after market cone is just to cover the space and i bought it many years ago ''for Felicia''. I don't push the horn often so the centre button is OK plus you can install another badge so it looks ''cool''.

My Yeti has this problem, and has been getting worse over the years. I life on a hill with a sloping drive, big wood chocks are now needing to stop creep. Yes, hard foot braking and yanking on the hand brake lever has some effect, although the hand brake movement is twice the amount I can get without foot brake use. Many attempts have been made by dealers and indies to no effect. The sliders, pads and discs are all good. I think the problem is the automatic adjuster behind the hydraulic piston. I have some Golf Mk 4 rear calipers which I was going to fit on my MG, but didn't as I was able to rejuvenate my Rover 800 rear calipers which are OEM fitment. I've taken the Golf calipers apart, and the handbrake adjustment is a tightly clenched packaged unit which seems very difficult to find. I don't know if it is the same as in the Yeti, but I may have to get new rear calipers as it's getting worse all the time. The front discs are fine, disc wear is uniform and may be compensating for poor rear brakes. The rear discs look tatty, indicating not really working effectively? My MoT testing garage uses a Tapley meter, so I haven't any real data. It passes every time!!

Left at dealers now, so they can start it from cold. Service reception said the 1000rpm is correct on the 1.5 manual. They think the knocking is also normal as there's a dealer video about it but will confirm. The cut outs and almost stalling is the worrying bit for me - let's see what they say😬

Motors functioned fine, no worn plastic gears, everything cycled as it should. No issues with coolant flow. No issues with engine temp. No issues with external temp.

We got a 2021 mk4 hybrid estate earlier in the summer and it has been great. It went to the dealer for some software updates, which they did under warrantly because of occasional infotainment system restarts, but no other issues. If I were getting another, I would ensure that there is something left on the manufacturer's warranty to get any potential issues sorted out. From looking around before settling on the Octavia, most of the alternatives had similar issues, particularly with software. Looking on the forums can make it look like they are disasters on wheels, but people don't usually come to the forums to say that their cars are fine!

A late, very low mileage 1.2 SEL Drive DSG Yeti sounds perfect for your needs 🙂

+1 This is what I use from years as well. On regular ATE discs/rotors as recommended by ATE.

If you are going to do anything do 1941 first and then do 1969. Slower incremental route but it should eliminate any possible glitches.

Hi, Out of curiosity and looking on the web at modern cars I thought perhaps a VW Tiguan might make a decent replacement for a Yeti. What a total put off for me; I don't want a car without proper handbrake or key less entry. Surely a 12.9" TV on the dashboard can't be a safety feature and no manual transmission. Trying to obtain full spec I find very difficult indeed; browsing the web brings up no end of lease deals etc but what about all the full car details we used to see as brochures? A spare wheel at around £350; my first car an Hillman Minx convertible came with five wheels and cost an whole £5 cash. I admit to being a 77 year old dinosaur but I thought a car was supposed to be transport not mission control; a brand new diesel or petrol Yeti stripped of all the unwanted electronics would be fine for me; no infotainment; no blue tooth or phone connections; no radio; no heated seats but it must have handbrake; heater and spare wheel with jack; if I ever reach the point of not having enough strength to pull up an handbrake I think I should stop driving completely. I don't use a mobile phone. The government about ten years ago got motorists into diesel cars and once this was done then diesel owners were stabbed in the back; now the government are pushing EV's but as I expected EV owners are now being stabbed in the back; the free road tax which was a selling point will go up in smoke April next year if the EV hasn't already gone up in smoke; public charging is more expensive than filling up an ICE car unless with an home charger; motorists are just cash machines for the government and it's long overdue for a revolt against the government; they've gone too far; I'm totally biased and admit it I want a car as transport to drive looking ahead at the road not looking at a TV screen; amazingly I can park our Yeti without needing lots of electronics and I have a pair of eyes to watch all around as I drive using old fashioned mirrors for emergency vehicles and tail gaters coming up behind. Last year I did a lot of rustproofing to our Yeti but living on a steep slope I'm not keen on jacking the Yeti up to rustproof the floor pan; there are no rustproofing centers in or near Huddersfield; the nearest I can find are Doncaster or Nelson. At 8 years old if our Yeti was an EV what would it be worth assuming someone wanted to buy it; white goods have been disposable items for years now cars are becoming disposable items; for anyone owning an EV then it's their money and their choice; I don't want an EV or even want an EV on our property. For what an EV costs an awful lot of spares/repairs can be carried out on an ICE car; I'm a Yorkshireman and would have nightmares with an EV depreciation. I've rambled on enough and hope I haven't offended anyone; I washed and dried our Yeti yesterday and polished one side; when it warms up outside after dinner I'll finish the polishing; I'm using "Bilt Hamber Auto-Balm" the Yeti scrubs up like a brand new car and it's got street presence. Kind regards, Col.

Hi, thanks for this thread it helped me a lot! So here is my feedback following the update of my skoda Kamiq 2021. I had a very annoying issue when driving from time to time the digital cockpit starts rebooting so I decided to do something about it 😉 I was in software version 0156 with 00071C00 FEC already installed. my upgrade path: 0156 -> 0238 + 0268 + 0278 (~60min) -> 0308 (10min) -> 0324 (10min) I just bought a usbc3 key, copied the files and voilà 😁 the FEC code is still activated and navigation system is doing fine. BTW does anynone know how to get the OCU version with carscanner ?

OK, mine is 1000rpm once warm. I'm sure that can't be correct. Got the almost stall from standstill when moving off as well. Dealers tomorrow.

Leave the key in the ignition and don't open the door?

IIRC some "validation" is needed from Skoda for you to be able to become a Primary User - the dealership takes care of that. I remember asking for validation for both Octavia and the Formentor - they need to confirm the email address that is associate to your Skoda Account.

That's extremely helpful and impressive. Thank you for taking the time to share so much useful detail and providing the links too.

Technically not done to the car! Got the My Skoda App integrated with my Home assistant install. Now I can see all the information regarding the car much easier!

@SuperbDuperb Hybrid Coolant is a Safety Critical issue when it is that. Not something they can just wash their hands of. It is actually Skoda executives you need to get to. So past this crowd who refuse everything.

This description indicates either the RHR bulb or the RHR cluster earth has failed.

Last piece went on the roof today.

Filling in metadata like where you're from does help with regionalisation of answers to legal and technical questions.

I washed all the glass and reg plates before the MOT but as for the rest, it's harder to see the dent when it's dirty...

Cant believe how good the mud flaps are at keeping my car cleaner than normal considering the weather. First time I have had them fitted on any of my cars but now would be the first thing I have fitted

A few shots from Knockhill today.

Hello. So here's a couple of screenshots of the instrument cluster (there's also a screen for the navigation but didn't want to take pictures of that, but it's mostly the same option of layouts). Bonus picture of the infotainment screen (with some useful shortcuts at top and bottom I've set up for myself) and heads up display (with navigation enabled but stationary at the moment of taking the picture). PS! I'm aware I have the "engine" light on. The dealership is still figuring out what to do but it's related to a faulty sensor for exhaust temperature. It's OK to drive and is not causing a limp mode, fortunately.

@itsbrun Thanks for testing, i have lost this ability since replaced 2016 ŠS Mk3 to 2023 ŠS Mk3.FL where Mib3 has free offline updates only once a year to push €50/y online subscription, i paid €40/y only for Car Connect

Thank you MartiniB that has yet again worked perfectly 👌

Hi Kev, Thanks for your patience. Tricky one, we leave all the content. So if you’d used 6Gb, you’d be over the limit, so would not be able to add new. Hope that helps. Open to feedback, constraints are the software we use.

Few odd jobs: Got a nasty leak in front passenger footwell, narrowed it down to a missing grommet in the cabin air filter area: I found a suitable grommet, added some dirko sealant just to be sure and plugged the hole. The damage has already been done though, I'll have to strip the interior and replace the carpet and sound proofing: Next thing was a super rusty PS hose: Autodoc came to the rescue with an affordable febi part, i had to source the 4x copper washers separately though: Rear wiper wasn't spraying, I remembered back in 2018 my first octavia had the same fault and the union behind the boot liner roughly in the cd changer area has come apart. I've plugged it back in and put a self adhesive heatshrink over it so it won't happen again: Oil cap did't feel tight and was slowly leaking, so i replaced the seal on it as well: Fuel cap has also seen better days so it was replaced with a TPS part: Same for the antenna: Arm rest latch as also been fixed with a cheap ebay parts: The car came with 2 key fobs. both not working remotely. First one was an easy fix, just replacement of the battery, the second one was not. It was missing the battery terminal so i bought a 'blank' on ebay and replaced it, its still not working.. not sure what im going to do about it. Some more stuff from TPS, because autodoc is taking a while to deliver my timing belt stuff.... 2x front badges 2x air filter screws 1x fuel filler cap (seen in earlier pic) Replacing the badges was very satisfying:

Definitely, if not sooner.

I'll give it a try 😄 1. Boot floor and under rear seat; less rumble overall 2. Doors; loose wiring rattles gone, plus firmer sound when closing 3. Wheel arches; less tyre/debris noise The total weight added is now at roughly 20kg.

Finally repaired. 8 weeks but worth it. Windscreen and headlining stayed in. Thank you David Smalley at Horton Lincoln for sorting it out.