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yesterday was a busy day at work...

I have now sourced the 1985 update package and installed successfully. Everything seems fine but got a long journey tomorrow which will confirm its stability. I’ll happily share it FOC over the weekend on my cloud servers for members to download with a guide (basically the same guide notes for the 1969 update).

When I have the tpi I will share it here

UPDATE I received confirmation yesterday that Skoda UK have confirmed their acceptance of my request to reject the Superb. They have confirmed that whilst they are working on a resolution for these assist faults they are no closer to releasing a software fix. i’m sure with the support of your dealership, if you’re wanting to do likewise it will be accepted by Skoda. ‘Your dealership have communicated with Skoda UK regarding your concerns about the camera malfunction in your vehicle. After discussing the issue, Skoda UK has agreed to accept your rejection of the vehicle due to this fault’

you need more cobalt for your petrol and diesel than for EVs though. And your phone and laptop as for charity how come so many of our veterans are on the street? I met Simon Weston CBE the other week. We lost just over 200 men in action in the Falkland and nealry 4 times that many since due to suicide because we leave it to charity to look after the mental health and welfare of our veterans. Food banks right now can't keep up because people aren't able to donate enough. Sorry but I think the measure of a civilsed society is how it treats the most vulnerable. The Dickensian idea that we should leave it to charity is, well, Dickensian.

On a similar note

So as an update, I went to collect the touch up paint today. The lady who served me wasnt the same who served me on Monday and its labeled as the correct one. She said she didnt know why he would say it was Glacier White as it obviously ordered the correct one, at least its sorted! Thanks to everyone, hopefully the TPS link will help some as well as Id imagine it works from some kind of VAG supplied database.

damit. Cowards. Despite being in a so called smokeless zone I now need touse an inhaler in the winter here. I'm fine in the summer when the neighbours aren't all burning wood. We can't hang washing out to dry either as it all has to be washed again due to the smell of smoke

The flashing red light means that the key can "see" the car and so the battery will be in use. Once out of range the key should stop flashing, storing the key in an RFI pouch or a metal tin should prevent this. Energizer batteries at rated at 240mAh, duracell at 225mAh with most others being at 210mAh, using a genuine branded battery will give you the best longevity.

george as you should well know since you appear to follow me on youtube, I have got videos where I have filmed this very scenarion: one where I engineeered it (by not filling up when staying in Manchester and then driving back to edinburgh without the car being fully charged) and then two others that were real life: one coming back from Rugby to Edinburgh where I suddenly got a 70 mile diversion, and the other where I was at work, not charged and got a call telling me I had to go to Peterhead during an amber alert that became a red storm alert to collect my child from a school camp. So yeah I get that in real life stuff happens, it's happened to me. What hasn't happened is that I have had to go to a part of the country that doesn't have electricity.

Thanks Inspectorman and Nigel. I hadn't previously read all of these VW self-studies, so it was helpful to go through them all. I did charge the new battery overnight before installing to make sure it was full, and again on the car a few days later after spending time at home running it down a bit looking at the system. Our usual journey is the 20 mile drive to the town, It's mostly on a winding, hilly single track road and not above 4th gear and 30mph until we get to a main road for the last 2 miles. There are frequent stop/starts to let cars pass the other way, and to avoid sheep, deer etc. Maybe the charging schedule is similar to driving in a busy town? (The particle filter stays clear. So the engine must run suitably fast/hot for long enough.) My multimeter is fairly upmarket, and DC voltage is specified as within 0.5%. But I suppose it could have drifted - I haven't calibrated it for several years. I used to work in a university electronics department , with good access to useful kit. (I once needed accurate voltage to challenge our home electricity supplier.) It does still agree well with another good meter that I keep on my boat. I know how instrument that display voltage aren't necessarily particularly accurate - one on my boat reads 0.2V lower than the meter across it and another 0.25V higher. I may seem like looking for too much in this, but it's my nature to wonder if something a bit unexpected is a clue to a problem. The MOT is on 6th December, and I don't want tot risk being without a car. There is a bus twice a week from a bus stop 9 miles from home - not much use to us. So I'll wait until the sensor is replaced before doing anything else.

ordered my Kodiaq Sportline end of September - had a call from the dealer this week saying car has been built and ready to be shipped to UK. Should arrive end of Nov or first week of December. Is that accurate?

Manual gearboxes Mk3 are fitted with Stop & Start. 😉 Manual will prevent you for TJA (trafic jam assist) and possibly DCC (at least it might not have all driving modes available on an Auto. e.g.: ECO mode)

Well if that's the case then if you can find an image of 1941 and follow the guide that I did (pg 26?) and if you feel comfortable about doing it then fine. Of course there's the caveat: "You do this entirely at your own risk, the board is NOT responsible for any damage that may be caused"

I may have some slightly useful information to add to this thread as we were the unfortunate victims of a burglary a few months back. I've always been slightly security conscious and installed a Simplisafe alarm system before moving in which I always set. Has motion sensors, glass break sensors, indoor and outdoor cameras plus a few other bits as well as motion detection and monitoring. We left the house one evening to go to a friend about 15 minutes drive away. Shortly after leaving I got a notification to see that someone had rung the doorbell a couple of times. It wasn't someone I knew but I wasn't unduly concerned. Then a few minutes later two chaps headed down the side of the house which I thought didn't look good so decided to head back (although we were unfortunately nearly at our destination by then). A couple of minutes later got an alert to say the alarm had triggered, I was instantly able to view footage of the intruders entering our house and rifling through drawers so knew it wasn't a false alarm. I immediately called the police who fortunately were quite nearby and arrived a couple of minutes before I did (probably arrived about 6 minutes from when the alarm was first triggered). Further review of the footage shows that they were only in the house for about 30 seconds and didn't steal anything so my only financial loss was the cost of replacing some broken glass which fortunately wasn't too much. I have some pretty clear videos which I gave to the police but unfortunately due to them being masked and gloved up then I don't believe they ever identified a suspect. I was very happy with how the alarm performed overall and whilst obviously it didn't prevent the break in in the first place I'm sure it cut short their visit quite substantially.

I've installed one in mine as well. Mine works 99% of the time, but that one odd time it remains in auto-off. It's a cheap little thingie so 99% is ok in my book.

TVS gearbox software is excellent, probably the best available but their ECU mapping is average. There are far better options out there from the likes of Racingline, APR etc. The Phirm are very good, they look after my Superb 272 and do a far better job of diagnosis and maintenance than Skoda dealers. They get very busy as a result, their lead time is often a month.

Hello, the sound actuator is actually completely gone on the facelift vRS. Can confirm that as an owner of a FL vRS for a month now and ~2000 km driven. That's one of the first things I noticed when I put it in sports mode because the sound didn't change at all, it's what you get and it's quite nice. It's also confirmed by one Škoda guys working on the facelift project:

Interesting that it's listed in the UK brochure. Perhaps it's somewhat different for the UK or the brochure is just wrong? Here's a comment thread from one of the reviews on youtube and apparently the one confirming this was someone directly involved with the Octavia facelift project.

We should NOT have to mess around disconnecting the battery every other day on what is supposed to be Skoda's premier car . The car should be Superb when it leaves the factory, it is not, it is 3rd rate. Why did Skoda sell a faulty 3rd rate product? Why do they not communicate with their customers? Why has it taken 4 months to sort out the problem. Skoda should be ASHAMED they have let their customers down

Message posted by a Tiguan owner on tiguan3forums on November 4: "I had a call from my dealer on Friday morning saying my Tiguan was "all done and ready". So I collected in the afternoon. So far, and its early days I know, it has been ok. The service manager repeated the fact that the affected cars were only 3-5% of the total built ,and that this software upgrade had been provided specifically for Tiguans made during the period where the problems have occurred. And that mine had successfully been updated and that there should be no more issues.. Lets wait and see." Keep fingers crossed and hope everything will be soon ok for Superb owners too.

It's a Golf Ball rolling around the cabin. 🤣

Hello Tom My second Skoda was a 2015 Octavia Estate. Great practicality 👍 Gaz

Thanks for your replies all. I forgot to mention, so by way of adding some clarity, this car is a company car. It is serviced every year according to manufacturer scheduling. The coolant temp, assuming this is the small analogue dial on the left of the instrument cluster sticks at 90 no matter the temperature. My problem is the car going into limp mode. I actually watch the engine temp rather than the speedo as I know when it hits approx 116, the car is going to go into said mode and lose 50% power. It’s like it cannot handle prolonged speed. The car is a 2020 Estate, SE. It’s a work horse and covers 20k miles a year so already sitting close to 90k total mileage. its serviced according to VW scheduling, and that’s factoring in the excessive mileage it does, so annual oil changes, fluid top ups, tyres and DSG service are all done. Unfortunately because of that, I don’t know what type of oil is in the car. oil is changed at least every 12 months

Could have been tempted with yellow if it was available in UK. Meanwhile my hyper green order is currently sitting in Germany waiting for a boat.

the idea of little government is superficially attractive but then you look at what it was like when there was none and it was OK to send kids up chimneys, no social security for those who need it, no regulation of safety and food standards, water and all that sort of thing. I suspect we all like being left to get on with life but want that base load of things like roads, power, education, law and order, defence, consumer protection etc all the things that a central government facilitates

All season tyres fitted now. (and yes, the car is filthy - will be doing something abut that this weekend!)

There are going to be a LOT of assumptions that have to be satisfied for that graph to be true. Scientists are humans, each have their own agenda. The willingness of the media to portray climategate as proof that one shouldn't trust scientists also born out of their own agenda. Difference is, the scientists are beholden to the scientific method whereas the media can write anything as long as there is skippet of relatable information. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scientific_method That also explains why we have a few scientists and individuals who are saying the opposite from consensus. Those individuals also have their own agenda to push. And it begs the question who do we trust. Individuals who have not managed to get their conjecture through the hundreds of years scientific method, or majority of scientistic who have all reached consensus? My "agenda" is a desire for me, my family and my extended family in the form of my people, to be left to get on with life with minimum disturbance or interference from anyone else, and with the least amount of government possible. All of my politics boil down to that.

It's been 7p buy in and 15p export for a while on Intelligent Go. Very interesting they've added more people onto it. As electricity price slowly decreased, they've decreased business export rates. People were saying these 15p domestic export rates were about to end. Evidentially not. I've been thinking about sign up SEG (https://octopus.energy/smart/smart-export-guarantee/) with my new Powerwall 3, it has LFP battery. But then I'd loose FIT deemed 50% export because going from deemed to SEG is one way street. But my solar is so small using the battery to play the energy market via SEG probably gives better return. One more reason to sign up to SEG is to get up to £2 per kwh payments during saving session events. I now have capability to dump 16 kW of power into the grid and effectively get paid £30 per 1hr saving session.

Octopus now allow the thousands of their clients on the GO tariff to export back to grid and they can earn 15p a kwh. So GO customers can now download power at 8.5 p per kwh during the night period and sell back to the grid at 15p therefore making 6.5p per kwh a few hours later. This is effectively turning us GO client's as micro battery storage for the grid. Whether we use our batteries or cars, if V2G capable, this should have a positive effect on stopping using gas etc peak demand hydrocarbon plants. Not worth it for me yet as I think one needs lithium iron phosphate or similar batteries as pure lithium batteries deg would outweigh any marginal payment between import and export values. Wider differential might occur. I recall reading that lecky production could sell for up to a £1 a kwh at some times and as we know Octopus will sometimes supply lecky for free and Agile customers have even been paid to take surplus lecky.

I have a MY19 Octavia estate and had all sorts of strange things happen to my doors, locking/not unlocking/alarms going off, seemed to have a link to whether it had been raining or not. After trying to understand the problem I got a main dealer in France (we were on holiday) to check for fault codes. He smiled when I explained the problem and took less than five minutes to identify the problem. It seems it is a well known problem with the front doors electronics The only solution is replacement. UK dealer who fixed the problem, for £400, more or less admitted it was a known issue. I was 4 weeks out of an extended warranty!

Equally I could say : Bit of a dumb concept to buy a car with a known weakness such as many of the DSG gearboxes, could I not?

only problem is that it's at least 12 hours to get to the ferry port so unless we're taking the camper van to holiday in we use Easyjet

Agree 100%,have fitted them in my kitchen diner after the builders only fitted one switch in an inaccesible place!

Update #2 This morning was a bit colder with a ambient temp of -3⁰c. Ran the heater for 1h together with the coupe heater. Water temp was 65-70⁰c but almost instantly increased to 75⁰c when I started the car. It reached a water temp of 90⁰c within 2km/3min and oil temp of 50⁰c within 3km/3-4min. It heat up faster even though it was colder outside but it's probably due to it pumping the hot water in to the engine first and running for longer before it will reach its shut of temp. Never thought it would be so effective. It will be really interesting to see how it performs when the temperature drops even lower. I can also notice that the fuel consumption is an low I can get it doing the school drop off route during the summer. 5/5 recommend

If the DVLA database is that wrong, are you insured correctly?

As an update, the Amundsen was replaced under the Skoda used car warranty.. Sadly after the replacement was fitted the reversing camera did not work, so still chasing the dealer to get that coded and working again.

Update ,not sure how honest the mot was but brakes were binding on rear pretty bad discs were very rusty and had a wear line only about 1 inch wide how it passed mot is beyond me so re[laced both rear calipers and of course new discs and pads and a couple of short brake hoses ,not binding now lol. Mechanic noticed a broken rear N/S coil spring so thats been replaced and because i dont know history changed oil and filter .There is quite a bit of rust to be found underneath especially on rear subframe so that is being scraped sanded and treated .Just wonder what else may need attention or change mechanic is going to have a look at air filter tomorrow . 2 of the tyres have quite a bit of cracking in sidewalls so even though they have excellent tread approx 5/6 mm i will change them for new i get new budgets for £45 fitted and ballanced never had a problem with them.

Skoda have a Audi S8 killer.

UPDATE. Got the car finally into workshop on a flat level concrete floor. It will move forward in first very very slowly. The drive is so weak you could stop it with one finger at mid revs and also same in reverse but still no drive. Wont move at all in 2nd -5th Bled clutch and today took slave cylinder out and it seems ok. I can push it in without restriction so rod not seized in out position. (going to replace it as the rubber internal gaitor is split). I can also push lever that operates clutch with a lot of force and it springs back so clutch spring is still good. Still to check drive shafts which seem solid and rotate when pushing car back and forward. but reckon its either Diff or clutch so first planning to check shafts etc. and make sure there still connected and not broken or damaged and if there ok its gearbox out time unless I am missing something. Never had a problem like this. Normally when a clutch fails it slips before hand or totals the bell housing/flywheel and weird thing there was no noise before it happened. If anyone has any ideas what else I could check I would very grateful. Alasdair

Ok, Mr Iron Bladder.

Picked mine up - will share some pics when I get the chance to take them. Very happy. Doesn't seem to have the sound actuator, at least I could not find any setting for turning off in the indivusal mode. It sounds OK, still a lot quieter than my really old GTI, but much more comfortable. It is quick, but doesn't feel it as much as the GTI!

This talks about the topic of the day: https://www.thecarexpert.co.uk/why-the-uk-is-the-perfect-size-for-running-an-electric-car/ UK is a small island, we don't need 600 miles range.

And the closest I'll get to a Bonfire this week 🔥 😀 20241103_170436.mp4

Unreal! Looks like a pearlescent deep emerald green, very, very nice!

Fully suckered in: hyper green ordered via lease, build week 44 (this week?), potentially due for delivery mid-December 👽👽👽

TCU remaps make a lot of sense on their own as its another thing that improves the behaviour of the component which is sub-optimal comparatively. Look at all the benefits that the APR one gives you; the otherone on my radar is the TVS version - and they both have aspects that improve the longevity of the gearbox as much as help get standard/uprated power onto the road more efficiently etc. TVS do a deal on price for both, so the cost benefit is there for both.

The throttle controller doesn't change the idle rpm. As for the TCU tune - I have the APR DQ250 tune. Details here. I have the version that is targeted for the FWD (in my case 220 Superb), allowing "better" power delivery. It pairs nicely with my APR Stage 1 Hi-torque ECU tune. On the dyno it cranked out 223kw 530Nm, at the wheels, before I had the IE FDS v2 Intercooler installed.

Just got a Skoda activation email this evening. Seems my black one is on the way too.

I also started giving it a really good thorough clean. Interior was pretty clean but exterior was covered in tar spots. Started with a good degreaser, pre-wash and main wash. Unfortunately I had run out of tar remover and Halfords didnt have much choice except Autoglym stuff which was pretty poor. I managed to order some Autobrite Just The Tonic but had to wait for it to be delivered. I managed slowly to de-tar and go over with a clay bar the front, bonnet, all doors and roof. I then went over with Autoglym Super Resin Polish on a soft DA pad to give it some protection. Plan is to finish the de-tarring, go over with Menzerna Super Finish Cut and seal with Collinite 476s.