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The breeze wasn't my friend this morning in the Hope Valley........ A2 Pacific Blue Peter blasts through Edale with it's first revenue earning train in approx. 22 years after an extensive overhaul.

That's really the point I was making, clean energy generation is essential but it must be done sympathetically. There are plenty of great locations for wind, solar, hydro, tidal, etc. that do not cause unacceptable quality of life issues (or loss of productive farmland) for more than a handful of people, who must then be appropriately compensated.

This still works, been over a year of ownership now. Lapped up the miles in true 'repmobile' style. Now sporting original velour mats, a genuine Vauxhall first aid kit in the boot, SRi/GSi/Supertouring taillights, Opel brand wind deflectors on the front, and unfortunately not attached at the moment, but it has a set of genuine Vauxhall headlamp protectors. That'll do.

on a related note am I the only person who thinks powerlines are less intrusive than windfarms?

I just wonder what you thought of those living near refineries, or nuclear power stations or those that lost their homes because of hydro? Or those next to motorways or airports where the goods get transported..

No, I think the same.

A car might lock itself after being unlocked and without opening any of the doors. It should never lock if a door has been opened. If it does re-lock after being unlocked and a door has been opened the door microswitch is probably faulty If the car locks randomly on moving the drivers door, it is likely the wiring loom is damaged in the rubber boot somewhere and the car had registered a press on the 'lock' button on the door card.

Thought I'd start a project thread to chart what I do to it. 2021 280 L&K DNFE engine - i.e. EA888Gen4; something I paid little attention to initially to my cost. Bought from Carr's Exeter; it was the GM's company car so had done 4,900 miles. Drove down the old car to Part-ex and brought back the Superb. Immediately had the emergency button switch off nearing home which was the first of a few problems with MIB3 software. Eventually got it upgraded which sorted out a myriad of sporadic issues. Given a bit of a clean and some paint protection - Infinity Wax Citrus Prewash, Carpro Lift, Reset, IronX, TarX, HydrO2 (easy mist on, jetwash off ceramic-based protection). The classic Engine Cover recall at this stage so engine looked a bit unfinished but cleaned with Koch-Chemie Greenstar - my go-to APC which also doubles as my main wheel cleaner too (start with an alkali degreaser, move to an acid for the stubborn caked-on stuff).

See the attached ROUGH guide to fitting the rear wheel arch liners on a Citigo. If you wish to follow my guide you do it at your own liability. Fitting rear wheel arch liners 1.0A.pdf

It is, but I would consider the £29.00 a month route instead - I think this is the safer/more flexible option as some owners have been caught out if they sell/trade car in and have already paid the whole lot up front - see

Sound is a pretty good word to describe the 'N' in NVH.

Not that I can take advantage of this offer, my 3 year date is 3rd March next but if you timed it tightly can you get the 3rd year (expensive) service included in this deal? I see in the Ts&Cs the service record has to be up to date and you can’t apply until the vehicle is 3 years old - so I suspect I’d be liable for the expensive service and get 2 cheaper ones included in the deal?

It's a meh from me too - doesn't improve the other way up either: Just reads a bit funnier. Gaz

Tyre pressures are not checked on start up as the TPMS system is passive. You need to start driving the car for it to notice a problem with low pressures. Thanks. AG Falco

DQ250 6 Speed Wet Clutch or DQ381 7 speed wet clutch DSG,s service schedule is not by years. The DQ250 is 40,000 miles intervals pr sooner, (& the DQ381 according to VW Group / Skoda is 80,000 miles, you might well want it done long before that. ) DQ381,s are Fluid & Filter at services, or should be. PS VW Group / Skoda have had the Haldex Service as 3 years / 30,000 miles for a decade now. Volvo @ 20,000 / 2 years.

AGM39

Plenty time to get used to it.

My 4x4 Sportline doesnot have a styrene insert in the space saver spare, the styrene 'bits' fit either side of the spare wheel and have mouldings to hold the jack etc. Ive just ordered a towing eye off ebay, I'll check to see if my inserts are fixed down. According to the Digital Certificate the space saver and tool set was a factory fitted item.

Engine: Racingline Stage 1 remap (self flashing tool) with TCU flash for the increased torque. Quoted as moving to 400bhp and 520NM (applicable to all engines with Continental turbo and end results irrespective of manufacturer's original state of tune). I haven't had it Dyno'd to prove, but I'm fine with those figures for now. What should help with the top end is the R600 induction kit and Forge turbo inlet pipe to speed up airflow - RL state that consistently gives 20bhp at the top-end so, I'm in the 400-420bhp ballpark. Brakes: Mtec drilled and grooved discs all round with ATE Ceramic pads. Standard sizes, just looks better and should stand up to any heavier braking should the need arise. Still bedding in and have noticed the DV-to-induction pipe has a broken clip so is being pushed off with high pressure/more open throttle. It makes the car sound like it has a dump valve at the mo (technically it is dumping to atmosphere so it effectively is). Not keen on that so no driving in anger until that's sorted as well as brakes having done a few more miles. Dirty Engine Bay:

I had similar problems in my 1.9tdi It would go into limp mode randomly. If I stopped car and restarted and it was fine for a random amount of time. It did get progressively worse. Think it was the same error code. My turbo is VNT. I tried manually operating the actuator and it seemed very stiff and sticking at one point. I sprayed the actuator with some penetrating oil and spent ages operating it by hand. It eventually became easier and stopped sticking. Seems to have cured the problem. I assumed it was a vaccum problem and the garage assumed it was the veins on the turbo that were stuck. Might be worth a look Alasdair

I have this problem: I open the locks, open rear hatch (estate model) and pack some stuff in, car re-locks. I always thought it's normal as it doesn't do that if I open any other door. So I have a faulty microswitch. No surprise, trunk lights are on or off really randomly. Mostly off, but they might turn on while driving despite hatch being closed. Bulbs out is the current kludge, but obviously it's time to replace the microswitch.

You have a Bolero which does not support satalite navigation... Adding the SD card won't change this 😞

Basically yet another reason NOT to get a hybrid or electric car then.

The EV connection to anything is where stuff comes from and who suffers. So there is the battery issue, the rare metals the materials, the energy used and where produced etc etc. The slave labour, maybe in China, or anywere. Just like the ICE vehicles, then. The Oil & Gas also taken from far off lands to the UK or maybe British waters and then taken away and bought back. These getting killed and maimed around the world in wars is about land, resources, minerals etc. Oil & Gas. Anyone in the UK waking up and switch on, running water, driving or riding and not hungry, dirty, skint are doing very well really. Nobody is going to drop a drone or bomb on them today.

I had a new Battery fitted to my 2019 Karoq yesterday by Advanced Battery Supplies in Bredbury,Stockport. Bought the Stop/Start that they recommended, a Powerplus Stop Start Battery/5 years warranty/Higher cranking Amps. £119.95 fitted. No problems with coding. All done in 20 minutes. Ready for Winter.

I love the way you go completely off-grid with some of your posts 😂

Just in case this is useful to anyone, this is how I just now activated speed limit display on the Sat Nav map on my 2022 Karoq SE L display the Navigation map tap on three dots/ellipsis for more options tap on cogs/settings select ‘Route guidance’ scroll down select ‘Road signs’ check the box for ‘Show on map’ [other options are also on this screen]

The heated seats are working again. All I did was remove the fuse to check it, find out it was okay, and replace it. When I checked the circuit I convinced myself it had to be the main supply fuse as the lights on the switches came on and there is a separate relay for each seat though neither was working. It must have been a poor connection at the fuse although everything looked clean and tight.

Will agree strongly. Had 2 mk1 Octavia, no faults, warranty work, upgrades needed etc. Second one (1.8turbo auto L&K estate) went to father-in-law, did over 150k miles. Had a mk2 L&K estate (2.0 FSI auto), faultless until we part exchanged it at 7 years old These days people seem to have multiple faults, and dealers that cannot sort them.

Wind farms are hardly intrusive, they are just structures away in the distance or that you are close to, rather pleasing to many. Plenty in Scotland, with miles and miles of open access and tracks and trails. Oil refineries & Power Stations and Chimneys were intrusive for many, and Town Gasometers and much more and yet the energy was required just as it it now. The issue with so many is that they are happy to get their electricity that is generated elsewhere and does not intrude on them or spoil their view. Be that Electricity, Gas or the Petrochemicals & transport fuels. Scotland has the decommissioned Nuclear plants, the Nuclear Reactors from Submarines stored and the submarines, the Oil rigs waiting to go where ever to be dismantled, and much else. Out of site out of mind for many who do not live near them.

The engine is just and only just warm enough to stop the cold start pre-heat engaging fully.

I would check for sure if the timing chain did not jump. It is common. "I can't accelerate over 50mph" is a sizeable loss of power.

You say are filling 'almost all the way to the top' is this correct? if so there will be insufficient air space in the EV - fluids are effectively incompressible, so coolant will be ejected via the relief valve as it heats up and expands.

@Ootohere I agree, politicians all lie to us, all the time. As I mentioned earlier, I'm a moderator on a global social media platform which has over 10 million UK users and there is a new power line planned to bring power from Scotland down south to London and the South coast on pylons and the route is within 2 miles of my house and there is some local opposition to them as you can imagine, one of those opposed to it is none other than the owner of the local Škoda service centre I use, and he has a nice large detached house with a drive that could accommodate many vehicles with ease, and the same is true for many others in the local group opposed to the pylons. You don't tend to get too many people who have social housing voicing objections to such plans. The best part of it is that only a limited number of people will be able to see the pylons as they will be located in areas not visible from their houses and the pylons route have been designed to be far enough away and screened for much of the route from housing areas. As you rightly said, underground cables are far more costly and will just shove the price of that power to the user up even more, which would make them all tick like a clock again over the staggering increases in the electric prices, tsk tsk.

I think the tool is just that - the VW bolt cover remover. They use the same spare wheel kit across mulitple models and it sems to always have that tool. Our Ateca has similar bolt covers to Karoq and that came with the wire tool too, but didn't have the tweezers, so I just bought some off eBay.

If you want a modern car you will have no choice but to accept faulty software etc. All the manufactures are doing it. Personally I disable as many automatic features as I can, and keep a Triumph Stag so occasionally I can drive my own car and not have a nerd behind a desk doing it for me.

No, just clunking under the car. I didn't It was like a long & flat and shiny piece of metal about 6ft long I just saw it flying out from the wheel of the lorry at the last second. No damage to the rims as far as I can see or tyres. No damage to the front spoiler, front wing, headlights they work perfectly as when I select the automatic headlight you can see them adjust themselves as cars approach or disappear from the sensor/cameras view. The car handles fine, no significant change to the handling of it, it's not as sharp as normal, but if there's a damper fault or damaged then I would expect that. Yes you are correct in that I have DCC.

well mines built and at some point will set off on a train for germany and then onto me across the north sea!

From the Skoda Superb MK3 parts catalogue, it looks like most cars with build code 1X0 (front wheel drive) have OEM part number 3Q0411303 for the front anti-roll bar...which uses 24mm bushes. The exception for front wheel drive cars, is that if that car has build codes 1X0+TH8 then the OEM part number is 3Q0411303R for the front anti-roll bar...which uses 25mm bushes. Anti-roll bar bushes 24mm 3Q0411303 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/febest/14133447

Finally got the areaview calibrated fully. Was a bit of a pain but managed to do it with the mats tight to the wheels, other than that it wouldnt pick up the front corners of the mat. Now its just a job of getting rid of the black box around the centre of the car screen. This can be done with modified datasets which I now have to hunt for!

But heated seats burning down the car could be more than just first world problem.

I found these Philips RacingVision GT200 H7 (Twin) OSRAM Night Breaker Laser +150% H7 (Twin)

At Clumber Park (still a few to locate ⛄) :

After almost 4.5 yrs, Gandalf's battery was showing signs of weakness when cracking the engine. So I replaced the Exide EFB+ battery with a Century ISS Active AGM battery. Old: 12v 70ah 700CCA EFB+ New: 12v 70ah 720CCA AGM Did the Battery Adaptation too, changing it to Fleece.

Plenty threads here over the years on painting calipers or refurbished ones. eg Fabia Mk1 vRS in green. Appropriate heat resistant paint is just 'Simply Clever', AKA Common Sense.

The door wiring loom looks a bit butchered. You might need to replace that. The part that the wiring plugs into is the window regulator that raises and lowers the glass. That has nothing to do with mirrors, so most likely the wires going to the mirrors are broken too. Usually they break where the wiring loom goes from the door to the pillar.

So a further update, the alarm has been going off intermittently without any cause. Checking the data on the car shows 'lost comms with module' but doesnt tell me which module. Thats great! Thought id test the battery and it had a capacity of 350Ah of 680Ah. This is after driving the car for 2 hours each day all week. Its a shame but seems like after 8 years the original battery is finally due for replacement. On top of that, when you have the parking heater system the vehicle is meant to have an AGM, not EFB battery. So the largest possible battery to fit is a 096 size, AGM type battery. I use Yuasa batteries for work all the time so a YBX9096 is the optimal battery and next was finding somewhere with one. Halfords sell the battery for £237.19 which is wildly overpriced. But they do offer price match to high street and online retailers. So after some hunting I found it for £128.50 online and went into Halfords, After no fuss at all, walked out with my battery and very proud of my receipt. Battery fitted to vehicle, and coded correctly to the new fleece type with higher capacity. Now to monitor the alarm faults.

So I decided to change the front grille light bar to a proper one, i.e. not a homemade version. This one is an aftermarket one, from AliExpress - link here. They make different versions - mk6, mk7/7.5 and mk8 Golfs. Comes with the light animation at the start. It's cool. I specifically got the mk6 version as it was the right length for the Superb grille. I simply removed the surrounding trim that came in. It comes with a wiring harness (14-pin) that u can connect to ur existing headlight plug. Its designed to turn on with the low beam. I however used my existing wiring that i did before to power it up, so it comes on with the DRLs. The kit.... The light bar for the mk6 Golf.... The light bar without the surround.... The light bar test fitted... Clearance around the ACC radar.... The finished result.....

Read the attached it explains the Climatronic system. Depending on your level of knowledge it may blow your mind or all may become clear. There is a function in VCDS to set the flaps in the correct position. The output from the potentiometers need setting for correct function. SSP+25+Octavia+climatronic.pdf

Was this new battery coded when it was fitted? Have you smart charged the battery? On the way to work in the morning after 10 miles I can stop at a set of traffic lights, the stop start normally works. On my way home in the evening after 12 miles my stop start almost never works. 😕 There are many things that can affect as to whether the stop start will work. If I have the AC on and turn the fan speed up to 3 the engine will re start if it had stopped. The TPMS does NOT measure your tyre pressure. Read this post:- Can be turned off. Yes. Once the car has been started it is rare to have the battery fail. Was the alternator tested at the time? Low Voltage? Suffer from low voltage battery. Go to another one. Looks like the correct battery to me. Is the boot light on when this warning comes on? You need to look in the boot without opening any door or the boot. I would get a Smart Battery charger and charge the battery first. 🙂 HTH Thanks. AG Falco