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So had to put it aside for a while due to ongoing work in the shed. But I now have functional pit lights, and better overhead lights. New injector loom, new cam sensor, no luck. Got a crank sensor, got the specific socket for the crank sensor and stripped. No access at all so front came off it yet again. Damaged the rad taking it off so gonna get a new one, plus oil filter housing had to come off so more gaskets to get. Lucky an ez out got it out easy. Wasn't much torque on the bolt even, threads looked fine just the head was rotten. I may just end up cleaning down the front of the block and painting it at this rate, plus fix any scabby wiring, since I'll be waiting for parts to come.

Just (belatedly!) read this thread… very alarming , especially since I’ve been looking at buying cars from Meadens! IMHO this needs to go to Skoda UK - they keep tabs on dealer performance & this might be the trigger for enforcing dealer standards! It also seems to me incredibly short-sighted to “sack” you since - as anyone with a marketing background knows - it takes years to create a good reputation but seconds to break one! As is always the case one unhappy customer tells everyone who”ll listen whereas satisfied customers only tell their friends! Have you been communicating with the dealer principal as my understanding is this exec has responsibility for the franchise relationship & not just the relevant department(s)?? Best of luck!

This seems to be the consensus from multiple sources - if you don't tell the car it's a new battery, it could end up with the new battery malfunctioning or not lasting as long as it should. It might be true or it might be a myth, however I decided to code the new battery just to be safe rather than run the risk and potential cost of ruining my new battery.

Wishing you all a Happy New Year 2025 🍻

The OEM TRW front disks were vented but NOT perforated

Not always. A good DIY test is to open the engine bay, look at the battery and have someone else operate the starter. A bad cell may well look like it is "boiling" when under load.

Happy New Year. I'd suggest first checking the battery terminals for tightness, then having the battery load tested - dropping to 8 volts strongly suggests a faulty cell in the battery.

PM

@Ootohere My Touran was the 2.0 L TDI with 6 speed DQ250, I had the DSG oil and filter changed at 36,000, 72,000, and 100,000 miles slightly earlier than required. Gearbox was as smooth at 108,000 as when new. .

🤣🤣🤣

They are completely different things, so I can't see why you would use one in preference to another. Having said that I generally use cruise control, and hardly ever find the need to use speed limiter.

You mention Kamiq and a Karoq. We have both. We bought the Karoq first for my wife and then 2 years ago I got a Kamiq. My wife now she's tried the Kamiq prefers it over the Karoq. It's more nimble and for her easier to park. The DSG box is a delight to use.

Did it also allow you to view and edit battery type e.g. EFB, AGM (Fleece) etc ?

Strange, given that a solenoid is almost entirely made of wire, but there you go. By way of an update, in case it helps, the dealership workshop manager said that the solenoid diagnosis by the indy was just "a red herring" thrown up by the system. It turned out that the water pump for the gearbox had suffered a short-circuit, melted some connectors and blown a 10amp fuse. Finding this out had required the use of an endoscope because is is so hidden away, and they had to remove the front differential in order to fit the replacement. As reassurance to the rest of you, I can report that he said that he'd never seen this happen before - I suppose that should make me feel special, except that the bill was £1,253 ! Happy New Year to one and all.

Many thanks for the reply I tried it again but just held menu and then it booted in engineering mode and the updates ran, i updated to 0306 and then 0308 (found it in the Kamiq thread) I will download 0330 later and update to that at the weekend. Thanks so much for your help! Hopefully it resolves the carplay issues, a couple of the guys on the Kamiq group said it resolved their android auto issues. Just annoying that it went into Skoda for it and they shrugged their shoulders about it, but didn't bother doing these updates!

Ah! No my fat fingers, I meant Exide 70AH battery in the first sentence. The original was 67AH, so the change was to 70AH. Well spotted. Alan

I assume that you actually meant you changed the settings FROM 70 AH to 90 AH for the new battery?

I have found setting it to manual charge and then driving in 'S' mode, will maintain the charge and very slowly charge the battery - but at the cost of higher petrol consumption than in 'D' mode. The charging is so slow though (about 5 kms of charge per hour), I don't consider this a useful feature.

I can reduce the value, but cannot extend above the current charge. Its a pity, because the car doesnt even maintain the exact charge in manual mode and preheating is limited to above 25% charge. So I miss this feature too

Starter pinion will spin freely on the one way sprag clutch if the solenoid sticks or the key is held in the starter position. Given that it only happens on a cold start I would be looking at the vehicles other one way sprag clutch, the one on the alternator pulley.

I got round to changing the battery today - a new 90AH Exide battery had arrived a few days ago. Thank you for the help and advice to everyone - swapping the old battery out was simple enough and all the fault lights disappeared once I'd swung the steering to and fro a couple of times. The Carista dongle prompted me to the app store as soon as the BT connected to my iPhone. The Carista software is simple enough to use - I chose the year's subscription for about £25 option - I probably could have got a free month by going for the £60/year/pay monthly option and cancelling it straight away, but that seemed a bit tightwad to me and I'm happy enough with £25. The software allowed me to change the capacity to 70 AH, the manufacturer to Exide and I gave it a different serial number, that only took a few minutes. Before I disconnected I ran the diagnosis programme and it picked up and cleared a few fault codes. I took the motorcar for a drive - long enough to get up to full temperature - and was surprised that the Stop/Start system has fixed itself. It probably stopped working a few years ago, but I never much liked it so that hadn't bothered me. Anyway - everything is working fine now and starting is no longer laboured. The old battery is still holding about 12.5v - around 80% charge - so I'll keep it as a workshop 12v source, which is always handy. Best wishes for a prosperous 2025. Alan

Doubt it. I'm a good driver but not that good. The warning hasn't triggered once since I've had it and went on a long drive yesterday to force it. Again, ACC worked and kept its distance but when off, I was able to rush up to other vehicles regardless of the distance setting. As predicted, the OBD check came up clean so stumped right now and may have to go to the dealer, but first I'll look for an independent specialist and see what they say.

Neither went. I part-exed it for my second Yeti at nearly 130k miles and there seemed to be plenty of life left in both.

Could be a sticking starter motor/solanoid. My daughters old beetle used to do this if it was left for a while. Think it was the starter engaging but not releasing fully. If I remember it was a fairly common problem with the early new shape beetles. Alasdair

Is the drop in revs when moving car in reverse or when stationary with foot on clutch and do the reversing lights work.

There are companies who offer to repair sat navs if you search online who could be cheaper, but I've never used any of them, so maybe someone else with experience of them can recommend a repairer.

Happy New Year @wyx087! 🍻 So it's a numbers game, eh? "The more of something, the bigger it is a target for reduction." Hmmm. That's a somewhat inconsistent position to adopt, given that I've already pointed out the negligible contribution the UK makes to to global CO2 in comparison to countries like China & India. You've previously taken the "Every little helps!" approach. At least the CO2 output of cars is incidental, not the whole purpose of the machine. If CO2 really IS a problem, it would be trivially easy to ban the sale of CO2 generators. However CO2 generation is a growing market. It seems people just can't get enough CO2 to meet their needs. https://www.cognitivemarketresearch.com/co2-generator-market-report?srsltid=AfmBOor4xqL5qQDWpdVl3_2hkMaCMGX4UXDWeR-kelpCyICY2c99fBfh Can I get even a twitch of cognitive dissonance from you on this issue? 😉

Finally, had a safety recall done last week to repair insulation on the main battery (it's an iV). My local garage, Meadens in Brockenhurst, Hants, are literally at the end of my road, couldn't do it as they are the wrong 'level' of services, don't have the kit, nor the training. So after a long wait it went to Skoda Winchester some 40 miles away. They discharged the battery, dropped it out, did the recall work, and put it back together. Two days, excellent communication and service. But then they found they couldn't re-energise the battery, the pre-cursor to charging it. Interrogated the car computer, and found several identical fault reports going back to July last year that the charging control unit was faulty. I have had charging issues, spoken to Meadens, who blamed the supplied cable. Meadens have had the car several times since last July, normal service, software upgrade after a nav fault, and faulty SOS module which they replaced after it started making random calls. Each time they've plugged the computer in. That's how they diagnosed the SOS unit failure. But not once have they told me the charger control unit was faulty, nor tried to address it. Winchester even had to argue that it was covered by my extended warranty, and fortunately won, its a £2000 part. So well done Winchester and back on the road in six days. But Meadens really let me down. I queried this and had an email about having to drain the coolant to diagnose the charger unit issue as if that makes the difference. So I have asked them again to explain. Either did they miss it (unprofessional and incompetent) or did they ignore it and fail to tell me (negligent and destroys my trust). Maybe it too was beyond their service level, but surely it should be communicated to me. Even my service record from this Feb fails to mention any issues and gives a clean bill of health. Or another reason. What would you do or think? Should I use Meadens (who we've bought four new cars from over the years, such is my trust) again...should others trust them? UPDATE: July 9. Heard back, some apologies for lack of comms, but basically they can't remember, long time ago, claim it's undocumented, and as trust has broken down, could I use another dealer henceforth. They say I only complained when I had a problem. Duh?! So no proper explanation, and sacked by Meadens. Actually had reached the same conclusion about their failings, so after four cars bought and serviced there, ta ta.

You don’t need to code a new battery - it will obviously work and provide power to the car - but unfortunately with the battery management and charging systems on these cars it should be coded. If you don’t do it the car will treat the new battery like it was the old battery and that could be detrimental to the service life of that new battery. Do or do not, as Yoda would say. Happy new year 🥳

Why wouldn't you though ? It's so simple to do the coding. I guess there is a, if you have something to do the coding with, to add there. But seeing that I do then it is something I always do when swapping or helping others swap VAG batteries. Maybe it's not that necessary if swapping like for like but I've never been given any technical proof of that and nobody has ever said it does any harm to do the coding.

For those in the future with a similar issue, I would like to note down my experience. When I had a similar issue, I looked at the fuse, and it seemed absolutely fine. I then checked the sidelights - they worked too. Why shouldn't the DRLs work? Turns out that the bulbs are, in fact, dual-filament. If you're unsure, it might be worth the trip to get yourself a pair of the bulbs - they're really easy to replace.

I agree with you but it can if it is driven by someone like I was in my 20's with company lease hire Sierra XR4x4's, max RPM clutch sidestepping from a standstill, doesn't sound like that is the case with the OP though. I think my Yeti was driven by similar uncaring youth idiots like me, maybe several of them as a pool vehicle, I replaced the clutch at 80K miles due to DMF failure, already very early, I found that it had already been replaced once and the pressure plate was blued and massively dished (80 thou!) and only engaging on the outer face, given it was an asthmatic 108hp model I'm pretty sure it had been doing max RPM drag starts. A 2wd version would have spun the wheels, a 4x4 variant transmits all the transient torque and inertia although the peak torque limiter would have slowed down the take up which probably explained the blueing. The OP's noise will be the release bearing which is not stressed by power transmission be it 2wd or 4wd.

That's the engineering menu. That's saying it has 1941 installed on it. If that's correct then in theory, in a while you should get an OTA download notification saying that the system will automatically download 1985, you can either wait for it to "help itself" via OTA or have a look in the threads regarding 1985 and see if it's still available for download from a generous member of the board.

The 4 wheel drive system doesn't put any extra stress on the clutch. My first Yeti did well over 100k on the original clutch, and my second one was heading well towards that when I sold it. And I was a heavy user of the 4x4 system!

Yes this should be part of your yearly service routine if you want your car to last 10-15 years without rotting

Was this the NOX sensor after the SCR? I replaced mine last year as it started bringng the EML on. I found it hard to find the correct part amongst the aftermarket sensors so ended up not wanting to risk it and bought OEM for piece of mind that it was just going to work.

GSF I'd assume

Thanks folks. Penpusher, that is a great find.

Fitted both today, temp needle now behaving , and cold starts are now without stalling!

Yes, the dealership is now saying it would be classified as a repair. According to the quote, the part they're ordering is.. SOGC927711HVI1 CONTR UNIT 1.00 467.00

Manufacturers only provide these kits to save weight of the "base model" to reduced the weight of the car for emissions classifications.

Hi all. Just a quick update. I decided to go with ECU testing in the UK. I shipped the unit @ 3 o clock on Monday and it was returned @11 am the following Tuesday. I cant fault that. 5 working days including shipping from and back to Ireland Shipping cost 95. (they will only collect for free in the UK) Repair cost 505 including return shipping. (No VAT or duty charged) Oil, filter and pressure filling tool cost approx 230. All figures in EURO. Total 830 I tried gravity filling with a tube but it was a nightmare so bought the pressure tool. One thing that I did notice. Be careful after you fill with oil and screw in the drain to warm the oil up. The drain picked up on the stand pipe as I was running it in and initially stopped short of fully home. Luckily I noticed it wasn't home before tightening fully as I could have stripped the plastic threads. I backed off and ran it up again slowly. This time it picked up on the stand pipe and it wound the pipe in ahead of it. I only discovered this when I went to wind the stand pipe in 2 turns only to find it nearly fully home. I had to back it down 2 turns to let it drain. I haven't heard anybody mention this before so found it a little strange. DUNNO!! It did throw up a lot of faults after, including gearbox / clutch faults which wouldn't initially clear so I had to carry out the basic settings . (Lots of strange noises and clunking when you do that). That cleared it. I have about 1500 miles on it since and no problems, so I happy out!!

Perhaps I didn't word my reply to George correctly then, so how about No I have not even began to look for it again, and TBH I doubt that it is currently published anywhere where the public can access it as it goes against the narrative doesn't it with their Net Zero policy and big push towards getting ICE vehicles off the roads. I thought I had posted a link to it, but maybe I was confused. I have just tried to find the link again on Google but all I get now is links to Westminster car public car parks operated by Westminster Council, these are not exclusively for government officials and their cars, so maybe Google had a glitch and passed me last time directly to the UK Governments own internal intranet server, who knows?

I installed in my octavia 2019 camera from Ali one wire no coding needed

B8s are the same damping as B6, but with a shorter rod - specifically for lowered or factory “sports” suspension. If I recall its about 30mm or so shorter on B8 vs the B6.

Hello Luke, welcome to the forum. If the tank and fuel lines were flushed, I'd be inclined to leave the filter as it is - unless the diesel was badly contaminated too. Any remaining diesel fuel will be flushed out of the filter almost immediately. Petrol through a diesel fuel pump might have been a little worse though, but I'd still think the possibility of damage to be pretty low. I think I've seen references to the filter being integral with the pump.

At every attempt that I made to get to bottom of this issue with the local Skoda dealer, over five years, was there any sign that they understood the cause of the problem. Or perhaps they didn’t want to admit what it was.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/64378-meadens-skoda-brockenhurst/page/2