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If only someone at VAG had had a sense of humor and made the 3-digit code for cold country "BRR". 😁

Good morning to you all 😎

Phenomenally clear skies this evening - tonight's Moon

So 6 months later after converting my MIB2 unit to a MIB2.5 unit, I finally managed to get my hands on the centre dash trim suited for the 9.2" Columbus screen. Got it from an MY18 Superb being wrecked. Good price too. Was difficult to find a match with mine as most of the Superbs being wrecked were Sportline models, hence carbon or black finish trims. That's assuming the trim piece was available and not damaged to start with!! The swap out process was relatively easily. Removed the screen first, then unclipped the old trim piece. I was unable to disconnect the ambient lighting strip connector as it was deep inside the dash trim and there was no way of getting to it!! So I unclipped the actual LED board and clipped it on to the replacement trim piece. Job done. There is two of them. One shoots light from inside to left, and the other from inside to right. MIB2 trim piece - 3V2.858.418.A MIB2.5 trim piece - 3V2.858.418.F Comparing the two trim pieces... Seperating the LED from the 2x ambient light holders... Cover removed... LED board removed... Without the LEDs All done...

And it really was worth 3 quid. 6 pages of mostly very useful info. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226517872578?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nGO17j9xSwi&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=b7yi6osrr9a&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

It all started with a wish to find out if the last service had included an oil change, a simple desire that soon mushroomed into a nightmare. The Skoda Crawley service chap was rather coy and a little abrupt last June when I asked him what had been done at the service. They don't give out checklists so I was told it was a simple task to go into "My Skoda" to see the details. So last week I thought I'd give it a try as the oil was getting very black and smelly. I downloaded the Skoda app. That was my first mistake - it made me enter all sorts of stuff before it would even connect me, including car activation, lots of time spent with both keys and the infotainment system. It all seemed to be overkill just to find out the servicing details. Anyway I ended up making myself the Primary User which made me feel quite important but not for any clear reason. I wanted to add my wife as the other user but it asked for her email and a password to be registered so I gave up as enough time had been spent on this nonsense. What if my wife didn't have an email account? Would she be permanently banished from the world of Skoda like a modern day sort of excommunication? Anyway there were no servicing details in My Skoda apart from "interim/minor service" and the dates, which was very little help at all. Thank you Skoda Crawley. However my disappointment turned to shock when my wife told me the Karoq now reads speed in Kilometres per hour and fuel in Litres. No problem, she went into the settings and altered it back to MpH and UK gallons and all was well. Until I drove the car the next day and it had reverted to Kilometres and Litres again! A quick reset in the menu settings got us back to Miles and Gallons, but after only two minutes of driving a message appeared on the infotainment screen telling me " Your car settings are about to be changed". And they were, back to Kilometres and Litres. Aaaaargh! Oh and another thing - unlocking the car now suddenly left three doors still locked. The technology is taking over! Another session resetting the options in the menu settings and normality was restored. Am I old-fashioned in wanting to get in my car and just drive it rather than spend time cancelling spurious menus and resetting parameters? We've had nearly three years of having to cancel the "Data use" menu every time we drive off, we've set it as it should be according to the sales chap but it's still showing up. Anyway some peace and harmony has now been restored. Delete the Skoda app, delete the primary user, deactivate the Connect facility and we have finally have our car back! Goodbye "MyConnectSkoda"

I struggled with a shot of the Moon as there wasn't much of it on display (2 nights ago)!

Its really "amazing" it got on my nerves so much a ungplugged the injectors one by one ..the sound was almost the same but i could hear a little more struggle from the engine except one where the leak was ...i also checked if the injectors spray correctly and all ...damn such a little leak and so much trouble i assume that the leak also caused the 16555 fault where the lambda got the readings right but the system thought she is bad...now when i found it it all comes together like puzzle and im thinking why havent i knew this earlier

The price of Copper has risen over 70% in the last 5 years, so stealing copper cables (even when live) is much more attractive. See this page on the Network Rail website Cable Theft

The battery voltage is dynamically controlled, with the battery only being charged when needed to keep it pretty well charged - so a battery voltage anywhere between 12.5V and 14.5V is normal depending on the situation. Typically 14.5V just after starting and when coasting, when driving as low as 12.5V can be considered normal, and when idling 13V is expected and is not an indication of a failing battery.

Just had a build week date of week 6 which is this week!

Hello Mike, welcome to the forum. Are you aware that there is a limiter that restricts RPM to a lower level while vehicle is in neutral gear?

That's it, it's worth hee haw now...

I've had a better look and there's nothing like a diagram: Item 26 - This is the fuel delivery unit and sender for the fuel gauge in the LH side of the tank. Item 27 - This is the fuel delivery unit and sender unit for the fuel gauge in the RH side of the tank Item 32 - This is the pump for a diesel heater if fitted. The level sensors must both have an input into the fuel gauge, perhaps averaging the left and right readings. I would surmise that item 26 is not a transfer pump but a recirculation pump. It is driven by fuel delivered to it by the pump in the RH side of the tank and after, passing through the venturi, this fuel "exhausts" into the LH side of the tank. Meanwhile the venturi sucks fuel from the LH side and delivers it to the RH side of the tank. Hence there is continuous movement of fuel between left and right sides of the tank.

That's just greedy 😂 No all mine, but over Christmas on our drive and/or front garden was... my 2020 Mk4 Octavia 1.5 SEL FE estate Mrs Steve's 2017 CitiGo Daughters 2014 CitiGo [soon-to-be] Son-in-Law's Mk2 1.4 TSI Superb Twin-Door (used to be mine) Hope you enjoy the [nearly] new 2024 Octavia....

The performance of the Pagid's is decent. I have no noise when reversing, or going into gear, or go from stationary to moving(so I cant see it being the brake rattle?). It really is just a very annoying knocking noise when on rough surfaces. When the suspension is fully engaged like bigger potholes I can't hear it. I'm just scratching my head how it went in with no noises and has come out with definite noise, and they can't 'hear' anything.

The Mk4 VBF supports are built on to the car similar to the Mk2, and sounds like the Mk1 too.

On my pre-FL mk4 Estate I have the VBF. It is useful to be able to slide things in as it brings the floor level to that of the lower edge of the tailgate opening. But, and it is a big BUT, the rear seat backrests do not fold flat (they did in my old Mk2 'cos the seat tipped forward) so the large flat area isn't so large; rendering the VBF near useless (for me). Thus, I would rather have a pull-out washable plastic boot liner than the VBF.

Update. FIXED. my early guesses confirmed it. At some point when unplugging the Chinese head unit, voltage went higher than expected to the plug in the gateway. That was the reason why there was no communication. happy to have the car back with the radio working but also with some issues it had since I bought it last October. Wiring on the 2 front door were completely destroyed, now is al fixed and all buttons and door lock working. time to send back the cheap radio and search something better.

Well after excruciating detective work...there was really a leak in the intake...yet small enough to be as you supposed temperature related it wasnt found the first time now we did...meanwhile my thermostat broke ...one of plastic hinges that holds the spring in place broke and left the spring half opened all the time wich made the engine run even worse but after it will all be done i suppose it will be all right again

G'day from Upover UK ...... I do not recall ever seeing an Octavia in Red ............ Bonzer mate ....... Possibly not the best word to use, Trolling ......... Unless you have been, Lol.

You may have to try and trace back wiring to see where it goes to. Will have a look on mine tomorrow if I can. Will be servicing my mk2 12 plate hopefully tomorrrow so while the undertray is off will have a look to see whats fitted in that area Alasdair

I reckon mine cost about £180-£200 pounds in total which was a lot cheaper than the £700 quote I got from the only mobile mechanic that answered my messages. Wasn't too sure it was the clutch that had instantly failed or gearbox. Suddenly no drive at all with no prior slipping. Luckily clutch disc had totalled itself on the pressure plate side. All that was left was shiny metal and a pile of clutch disc shavings in and around the starter motor. Don't know what a garage would charge these days. Cars now done around 800 miles so reckon I maanaged to do job ok. That shim is a nightmare. It gets caught on everything. I suppose their sealed for life (100,000miles/10 years). As long as it lasts the waranty skoda will be happy. Alasdair

Great stuff - nice to see them coming through ... how did you hear about the build date? Did the dealer contact you? (I'm fed up with hassling the dealer for updates!)

Excellent news! I have just had a build date this afternoon of 16th February for my moon white 85 edition Elroq .. seems quite specific? Not complaining...should arrive at dealers sometime in March which is happy days!

that means the HV battery needs charging - if you plug it in, the message will go away. When the HV battery is empty, the car seems to really not like you driving it with fairly constant warnings. Its probably not great for battery health either, as ideally theres a buffer to keep charge within it

Outside temperature sensor going by the location although the ones I've seen dont look like that. What is the thing in the backgroung out of focus in the first photo, is it the other part of this thing? What makes you think that it is a sensor?

New roof spoiler fitted today.

Are there any part numbers or are they on the bits that are missing . Cant remember seeing anything like that on my 08 1.9tdi so maybe something to do with 4x4? Alasdair

Read this thread. Towards the end there is a work around which give you a map update to I think 2023. I did this with mine. The files were just a bit too big for my card, so I just deleted some of the countries I knew I would not need.

Many manufactures rebrand Thule - I managed to pick up (from flea-bay) a new 'Volvo' bike carrier that looks suspiciously like the Thule Proride for about half the price. Little bit of black gaffer tape and Volvo logo has vanished !

@Craig0 - u need to take the car back to a Skoda dealer and get the SWaP codes reactivated/enabled again.

😄 Right now, I'm the proud owner of three Octavia automatic estates! 1. 2014 1.2l petrol automatic - had it about 7 years, totally reliable, quiet, 40-45 mpg, spacious, brilliant car. Not sure what to do with it - probably not worth much, Hoping to pass it on to a friend or family for very little money. It does have a nasty nearside dent where my wife reversed into a bollard. £35 road tax, so it can sit off-road for a time while its future is decided. 2. 2022 iV - bought from Motorpoint, delivered last week, but it had a load of niggles - scraping rear wiper, one key dead, no tyre inflation kit , sketchy 3-year service - plus the reduced load area made it un-usable for me. AND the local authority refuse listed building permission for any charging point, even a 13A socket. It's being collected tomorrow. Motorpoint were very good about it. 3. 2024 1.5 e-Tec SL - being transported down some time soon by Arnold Clark (just the little trip from Aberdeen to Exeter). Very excited - I've gone through life buying four-to-ten-year-old cars - and finally have sprung for one that's less than a year old. That should easily last me till they take my licence away.

Thanks for your comments guys. My car has been on Skoda Allin package for the last three years and supposedly had new spark plugs and filters last year but I always find that my MPG is down after it has been serviced and gets back to normal after a few weeks and that happened again last year. I find if I do a long run of 250 miles it seems to sort it out. I have never before noticed a drop of more than a mile or two in winter, but I have never managed to achieve the 62 mpg that some people publish either. I have to admit that ( senior moment ) I hadn't considered the brake issue even though my rear pads are almost shot but my fronts are only 10% worn. I am thinking it is probably the electronic parking brake issue that I have seen many people complain about. I have never noticed any issue with it coming on and off and not detected any drag but the wear would certainly point to it. Cheers guys.

Terminal 30 simply refers to anything that is a permanent 12V connection.

My old show car I have owned for over 35yrs is now almost 40yrs old, never been a problem. My wife's Peugeot is 21yrs old owned since new, never been a problem. My previous 2008 Mondeo I had for over 15yrs , never been a problem. My 2023 Octavia VRS, under 2yrs old and ALREADY BLOCKED. I have always used the same washer fluid in all our cars. So that can only leave the cause as being the finer meshed VRS internal bottle filter. Indeed, I agree the washer fluid is likely to be the root cause, but it is my belief that whatever is the cause of the Octavia VRS washer filter clogging up, MUST simply be washing/spraying through the system of older unfiltered cars, hence never a problem. If it happens again, the VRS filter will have a meeting with a cutter and becoming a simple UNfiltered type system that will then most likely last for years without any problems, just like all my cars before it.

Here you go:

Aren't there just some former headmasters on this forum - do this, don't do that! I thought forums like this one were where like minded enthusiasts shared tips and ideas, not to get lectured on the 'proper' way to do things I've now discovered that many towbar companies are fitting the mk1 Kodiaq towbar with either a universal wiring kit or a dedicated wiring kit so I bought a mk1 towbar, dedicated wiring kit and fitted it myself! Total cost - about £300. Someone who commented on my post, with a positive attitude, was quite correct in that the mk2 does come fully prepared to accept a towbar. All the wiring is behind the n/s trim in the boot. No need to remove rear lights. Wheel arch trims partly unclip then slide. Easy peasy for an old man like me with a young son keen to help his Dad. By the way, the bits came off eBay.

One website reckoned the R4, built on the same platform and using the same battery packs and motors, would be from 30,000 K Euros uop to 38k Euros. Sounds about right, £25k to £31.6k for version with all the bells and whistles. This depends on RoE staying about 1.2 Euro per pound but it all could change. EU economies could take a big hit if the US buys a lot less EU goods, GB may do quite well out of Trump's antics. JLR may regret moving a chuck of its car production from the UK to EU ! Maybe Stellantis will maybe extend its Ellesmere Port site and JLR its Hailwood site with these punitive tariffs in place ?

If anyone interested S3 Facelift DNFE engine (2021+). In reality, this engine with continetal turbo in vanilla state gives over 310 hp and almost 430nm (gearbox limit). Almost getting on Golf 8R/Arteon R levels. Maybe similar differences between paper vs reality will apply for Superb4.

I managed to pick up some Skoda ones cheap of eBay. They are just rebranded Thule ones. But quiet and sit at right height they don't get hit my my panoramic sunroof.

As Novascape said . . .

Thule for me and used the since 1993 when I got my 3 door corolla. Still using the square bars as I have some 30 year old bike carriers I occasionally use. Annoyingly I could only keep the bars when I got the Octavia estate as I couldn't get fitting kis for the old footpads I had even though Thule website said they were the same. (They weren't )

Ended up managing to pull gearbox aside enough to get to clutch etc without having to remove completely. Just left it suspended swinging. Main problem with fabia is the steel plate/gasket between engine and gearbox. It catches the gearbox flange on drivers side. I ended up pulling locating pins from engine and puting them in gearbox so the plate could drop enough to get the flange past it. Was a bit tricky lining it up again but managed it eventually afterwards, as you said raising and lowering a few mm at a time. would have been easier if I had someone else to help raise lower it Not too bad a job but I just took my time. Definitly worth changing slave cylinder while you are at it. Think drive shaft bolts are those triple suare spilne rather than torx etc Alasdair

Agree with above. Problem is getting car high enough to get box out and lifting it back in. Bought a engine cross bar for supporting box and engine which made it a lot easier. Sons fabia could have had two different diameter clutch and they got back to me within the day confirming parts and sizes. Have been fitting LUK clutches for years and had no problems with them. Alasdair

correct - the IS38 is used in the AWD Superb and Golf R. so if i can pick up a secondhand one in good condition, for cheap that would be the way to go for me. the downside is that the bigger IS38 takes longer to spool and build up boost, compared to the smaller IS20 used in the FWD which is a lot more peppy/responsive. ideally i would've liked an APR or IE downpipe, but because APR don't do Stg 2 anymore, that is not an option for me, unless i start from scratch and switch tuner altogether!! so for now, i've done the RPM Resonator Anti-Drone Delete pipe. yeah, i saw the comments responding to ur R600 intake and the inlet pipe - i would just ignore them. i have the cotton filter version in mine. its easy to clean.

I did message that show a good while back and never got a reply. 😄 I'm not so desperate as to keep trying with different people, just thought it would be a fun thing to do.

I find that I can get high 40s or even low 50s on long runs with the RS, but I have to be a good boy to get into the 50s, but 45 - 48 on a trip to West Somerset isn't uncommon though which for a 2.0 DSG isn't bad.

Sure, it's a strange statistical behavior... it might start without issues in pouring rain or out of the car wash, but fail to start in damp air (or vice-versa). As I mentioned, it's really difficult to reproduce the behavior - at least according to those encountering the problem.