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'Salary Sacrifice' deserves a thread all of it,s own.

Being the tight fisted Yorkshire lad I am I tried just replacing the pump at first. Issue remained mate. Had to send the controller off for repair. Spoke with the bloke at HaldexRepair (AutoFaultFinder) and he said it’s a bug in the software on the controller. I’ll probably butcher this summary, but once it’s detected out of normal bounds response from the pump it needs to be ‘reset’ basically. He opens it, flashes it and then reseals it better than it was from factory to avoid water ingress (another common fault with the controller being under the car). Can’t fault the bloke. Cost me £324 all in for new pump, controller repair and return postage. If you’re getting under the car to fit a new pump the controller is an extra couple bolts from memory, 30 second jobby. I removed the controller, taped up the plugs with electrical tape, and drove the car while waiting for him to fix it. ESC light flashed on first start-up after removing it but went away after driving it 100m down the road. Any other questions give us a shout and I’ll try help fella - know it’s frustrating when you’ve only just bought the car, I had the exact same experience

Respectfully I suggest you do yourself a favour and stop trying to fix what isn't broken, it's likely to end in wallet depletion and tears!

Hella are just a manufacturer that makes copy/OEM parts including lighting. See https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/468988-nearside-xenon-headlight-unit-needed-for-rhd-superb-ii/ which discusses the Hella part numbers equivalent to the genuine Skoda part numbers and also potential downgrade to halogen headlamps. Even then the Hella parts still make a hole in a grand and a quick web search shows none in stock at moment - https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3t2941018h?search=OEN+3T2941018H. And the downgrade to halogen would also be uneconomical. Unfortunately having a component failure that is essentially uneconomical to repair is the downside of running a relatively old but still electronically complex car, so called bangernomics. All that said, I'm not convinced that the issue here can be a failed headlamp unit. Whilst the headlamps are hugely complex bits of engineering (hence the cost) that's mostly to do with the mechanism that swivels the beam up and down and left to right for the AFS functionality (https://www.skoda.co.uk/discover/advanced-light-systems) and the bi-xenon function that flips the output between low and high mean. I can't see how a failed headlamp would cause the xenon bulb to not ignite. How has your mechanic tested the ballast to confirm it's OK? Did they do the suggested ballast swap? Is it possible to swap headlamps around to see if fault follows the headlamp (not sure if enough slack in wiring harness to reach the swapped headlamp which obviously won't fit on wrong side?) What error codes do a VCDS or similar scan show? Such a scan should be the first step of troubleshooting any fault on these cars and will hopefully narrow down where the fault actually lies.

If you really want to buy a Smart battery charger , these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Maypole-7423A-Battery-Charger-Electronic/dp/B009A83P1E get good reviews and are UK manufactured. What annoys me is it shouldn't be necessary, even with all the electrical requirements on modern vehicles (and don't forget LED lights take far less than the old ones), the alternator would be perfectly capable of keeping the battery charged (even on short journeys!) if it wasnt 'throttled' by the BMS system to reduce load on the engine in the cause of 'fiddling' manufacturers consumption figures ! The miniscule saving that the customer may make will be obliterated by the cost of a charger and leccy to run it.

Radio silence on the Tesla in Edinburgh that needed the new battery. Surprising since the driver and his partner have a Social Media presence and post on other stuff. Maybe some non disclosure arrangement. Lots of floods in and around the area and lots of Tesla but somehow not lots of reports of batteries needing replaced in Tesla.

Haven’t driven a car with a dial like that for 30 years. Climate control in a car is a long solved issue.

Read the guide below and watch the YouTube video which is extremely useful and shows you an update process in real time. Only perform this procedure if you are confident in doing so and it is at your own risk. Apparently, Skoda has stated this will be the last major software version update for the Skoda Octavia Mk4s, although I imagine the mid-Mk4 facelift models will get further updates. I applied the update to my Octavia Estate First Edition 2021 plate and all seems to have gone smoothly but it goes without saying manually update only if you are confident performing the procedure and it's at your own risk. FYI, I updated from version 1969. You will need an ExFat formatted USB-C type drive - oddly my Sandisk Micro SD Card with USB-C adapter wasn't detected by my Octavia so I switched to a 1TB USB-C Lacie hard drive I had lying around and that worked fine. You can tell if your drive is "compatible" and has mounted when you start the update process as, at one stage you will have to select either "USB1" or "USB2" - if a drive is mounted/detected one of these will be in bold. 1. Download the compressed package from one of the two links below: Octavia Infotainment Update Version 1985 - Google Drive https://e.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZSh8xZ7iUQu9K1u4uwTGbHqtxFE7m0OFtV 2. Create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet, for example, MU1985 3, Locate the downloaded compressed file package and then right-click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to the MU1985 folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished extracting the files you will have the following TWO folders (previously there has been a third file but not this time, just the two folders below): Data Meta 4, Copy the above two folders directly to the root of your ExFat formatted UB-C drive. These two folders need to be at the root / top level of the USB-C drive, not contained in any other folder and you don't want anything else on that drive THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES / FOLDERS THAN THIS. Once done you are ready to move to your car to start the update. 5, Insert your USB-C drive into one of the front USB ports and put your car in ignition mode, which you need to do to apply the update, just press the Start Stop button on its own, without depressing the Clutch / Brake which you would do if you were starting the engine I also switched off the climate control before proceeding although I imagine the Update process would disable its functioning anyway. At this point, you must have a full or very well-charged car battery so that the car doesn't shut down halfway through the process. The ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. 6. Hold the "Menu" button until the engineering menu appears. 7, Watch this video which essentially shows you in real-time the update process. It's in German but it's easy to follow and the video relates to software version 1941 but it's essentially the same process. https://youtu.be/4AsSbGd3caU Be warned, there are moments when the screen goes black, the system reboots and the CPU upgrade stage looks like it has frozen but it hasn't. Just be patient, let the system do its thing and you should get a successful update of your system. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM. Notes. After it has finished updating the system, give it a couple of minutes to ensure that all is well and like it shows on video press resume an wait for about 90s or so and the system will restart just, like in the video. DO NOT START THE CAR UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS RESTARTED After the update the built-in manual is unlikely to be available for about 48hrs, it does come back! You will more than likely receive another OTA update, it's OK to accept it. Ultimately if you are at all worried about doing it, take it to a VW Independent or Skoda dealer and ask them to do it for you.

Hi all, I’ve been a proud owner of the Kodiaq PHEV for a few months now, and I’ll admit—this is my first brand-new car. While my experience has been a bit mixed, overall, I don’t have any “buyer’s remorse.” The Good: Electric range is fantastic. If you can charge at home, it’s more than enough for daily city driving. I’ve practically forgotten how to refuel with petrol, lol. Matrix headlights are a game-changer. Seriously, life-changing. Physical controls for AC and volume. Overall, it’s a comfortable and stylish car. The Not-So-Good: That said, in these few months, I’ve visited the dealership more often than I visit my mom. Though, to be fair, this might just be the “ironing-out period” where you notice small issues that need fixing. Here’s my list: Driver’s door high-pitched rattle – Only some family members could hear it (lucky me). Dealer fixed it… Driver’s door LED strip – Only partially lit. The dealer replaced the entire panel. The rattle returned with the new panel. Fixed again! 😅 Heating pipe misalignment – Rubbed against high-voltage cables, causing odd noises on rainy days during acceleration. Fixed. Faulty cruise control button – Replaced under warranty. Mystery rattles – From air vents and HUD area, only on rough roads. Dealer’s verdict: “state of technology limitations” (fancy way of saying “deal with it”?). Infotainment system – Feels like three different systems stitched together. Settings are scattered across multiple menus. Škoda Connect API – Integration with Home Assistant breaks the app due to overly strict limits. App reliability – Random lock/unlock statuses. Currently in a 19+ email thread with support. Final Thoughts: Despite the quirks, the Kodiaq PHEV is a great car. Most issues were resolved (or tolerated), and buying a new model always feels like an adventure. Would I recommend it? For now, yes—just brace yourself for a few dealer visits!

My new baby . Thanks to a good friend she is looking her best . (Look at that shine all him ) My 4th skoda second kodiaq.

I really don’t know. I will find out in a few days and post an update.

I asked the dealer about the filter cleaning and they confirmed it wasn't routinely done. I was then advised it could be done as a special request for 0.75 hours labour, so they obviously knew that time without hesitation. Now booked into my longterm independent workshop, for a considerably lower hourly rate.

I strongly suspect the timing has slipped, there's nothing wrong with the CPS, it's the cam position itself that's the problem, since the HPFP is generally also driven by the cam then the other codes confirm the issue.

@Andrew2024 I meant a moderator on this forum. but they have decided to leave it in this section it seems.

Ah so it looks like it's not part of the UK spec but is standard in the European spec....... If i'm honest it doesn't bother me it not working as i like it being dark down in that location and the thought of the LED reflecting back up from my phone screen is something that would just annoy me.

Is it picking up your spare key? Mine does the same if my Wife gets in the car with the spare. Gaz

No-one is "playing" with you. They are giving you advice. If your car doesn't currently have electric folding mirrors then you will need to acquire a completely NEW set of mirrors that have the motors in them.

I must admit I was a bit surprised that my current ( and previous ) Karoq didn't have the TPMS-Direct system ( with pressure sensors ). I thought it was a requirement since my previous two cars ( both Fords ) had it. Turns out (I believe) that vehicles must only have a TPMS system that capable of identifying which tyre is faulty, which the TPMS-Indirect (ABS sensor based) can do. I think a TPMS-Direct system is available as an option on the Karoq in the EU

The problem with modern cars is that the battery is only charging under certain circumstances, most commonly on overrun. The alternator will not be making power all the time, only when the system allows it. With the system not permanently producing power short journeys may not, therefore, put enough charge into the battery. I mainly do short journeys and stop/start rarely activates. I needed to do a longer journey last week and for a short period the start/stop began working again. I don't worry about it. tom

Hi, From what I understood, dealer did something to the door, that stopped the rattle. It was not the umbrella. The craziest part was that the replacement panel after the led-strip failure had the same issue For the other issues that you have faced, I have them all but the "eurotunnel meltdown" and oil warnings. Overall it is a nice car, but it has that "unfinished" feeling to it

There are two 1.2tsi: one with 86bhp and the alternative with 104bhp. I have the 86bhp and enjoy the lower insurance costs. I have had the 86bhp from new over 12 years and have had no major issues over 66k. I have taken mine on European trips fully loaded and have found it not wanting. Touring mpg has been around 53mpg so very economical.

Salary sacrifice scheme seems to be up and running at work now. Looking at the various options I think the ID7 is probably going to be slightly beyond my budget unfortunately though it's actually a lot closer than I expected. Cupra Born looks fairly attractive but the Ford Explorer looks much better value at only slightly more expensive. Does anyone have any experience or comments to make on it?

Yes, that is correct, I had this problem when we were making youngtimer Audis and I had a customer that wanted to have both "long" mirrors, and I sorted a RHD driver's and thought to adapt it and it was useless. For those too young to remember, until the late 90's some German manufacturers and models would have different door/wing mirrors, driver's side would be longer, while passenger's would be shorted and a tad "wider".

Yes you want an appropriate charger maintainer and fully recharge the battery by following the instructions in your car's 'Owner's Manual' and charger's instructions. Best to recharge the battery fully at a low rate of amps (2, 3, 4-amps) which may take very many hours, I'm going to disagree there, not necessarily, you have to over-use, abuse or neglect the battery a lot to need to set the charger to anything like a recondition/recovery mode. With this you are reacting to the situation whereas it's better to be proactive with very occasional recharges to fully charged, more are needed in the case of vehicles not used frequently and/or on short journeys. A "smart" (no devices are really smart} charger maintainer will generally do all this is required unless the battery is in an extremely low state of charge and health then you might need special settings but then they might or might not work, for the average car owner best never to get the battery that bad and if so replace it and learn from the mistake. Not required on a "smart" charger and these chargers don't need to be over-priced like the CTek, Lidl/Aldi sold perfectly good ones for very low prices or as just one example here's one from Ring Automotive Ltd. (I see 15% is off at the moment making it an even better price). - Smartcharger 4 - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html

Pretty sure the Karoq ( like most VAG vehicles , I think! ) uses the ABS wheel sensors to detect a difference in wheel rotation speeds. That means it can tell you which tyre is low on pressure but not what the pressures are.

Maybe its UK octavias that don't have the LED then...

Haldex service interval has been changed from every 3 to every 2 as from the start of 2024. All well and good but it has a significant knock on effect on the costs per mile, especially if, like me, your annual mileage is low. As for the brake fluid change, I always say no these days inasmuch they often simply suck the fluid out of the reservoir and replace leaving the lines full of the old stuff!

Ive just read a thread that mentions there being different sealant types for the sump and the timing cover... is this true? I must admit this is another topic that I have very little knowledge on, am I able to just use something like this? I have in the past done a Toyota lucida 3cte engine sump which is sealed with special grey silcone and no gasket. Had to remove it to access rotten core plugs. Main problem was removing sump which is in two parts and cleaning up old silcone. I used small craft scalpel to cut slowly between the joins. The special grey sealant was available from Toyota but £50-00 for a small tube. Its supposedly for japanese import vehicles (hence the price). Did a fair bit of research and found Loctite SI5660 would do the same job so used it. I still have the people carrier and its been perfect for years plus I think it cost me about £12-00 online. Its antifreeze and oil resistant.

I would certainly get the Haldex oil changed, but not at a dealer unless they are one of the few that as well as changing the oil they remove the pump and clean the mesh filter. If they say they don’t remove the pump the job done properly at an independent garage, who will probably be cheaper than the dealer. The pump filter on my Kodiaq was similar to this after 2 years.

@Graham Butcher probably. & How many TESLA are out and about everyday in rain and floods? Let,s help keep him clothed and feed and living the life down under. (Google, Ricky Fulton. The Reverend I.M. Jolly.) Here.

It is amazing, not. You get in a cold car and want to heat it up and it blows hot air in. Then you ask for a cool temp and it puts in cold air. It is nice in an EV. Cold car, cold air and ask for heat and without an engine even running you get a 2 kW fan heater blowing air into the car. You can even have dials with a temperature reading on them.

MIB3 units, which is wat ur car uses, do not use or come with SD-Cards, unlike the previous MIB2 and MIB2.5 units. MIB2 - MY15 to MY17, SD-Card (glovebox unit), USB-A, 8" screen MIB2.5 - MY18 to MY20, SD-Card (glovebox unit), USB-A, 9.2" screen MIB3 - MY20 onwards, no SD-Card, USB-C, 9.2" screen as for door puddle lights - u can source them from Kopacek, or AliExpress.

Anyone know where the car measures the temperature from? It was about 5 degrees outside but much warmer inside, especially once I'd got going. Just give me a good old fashioned dial with red to blue gradient on it any day of the week.

I doubt there are motors to fold the mirror in non folding mirrors. You will probably need to get hold of a pair of mirrors with motors then sort out the wiring - and that could be a real problem!

😉 I'm sure 6C would be a shock in most of Australia this time of year 😉 That aside, earlier this evening I had a fiddle... 6C outside set passenger side to 22C set driver side to 16C Clima on Auto my feet got cold; Mrs Steve's feet nice and toasty. In my car, the Clima system seems to behave as expected, so maybe @jimtheslim's car has an issue

The bi-xenon setup uses a single xenon bulb with a mechanism that repositions the bulb relative to the projector lense to switch between low and high beam. As noted there's a separate halogen high beam bulb too. The xenon bulb is part of the AFS and if there's any problem in that system it will automatically aim the headlights as low as possible. This is one of the main reasons for having the fixed halogen units - it's a usable backup if the xenon system fails. The ballast is the power source for the xenon bulb. These bulbs work by passing a very large voltage through a gas capsule to create an arc. The ballast's job is to take the 12 V from the car's electrical system and step it up to the ~20000 V needed to drive the xenon bulb.

Of course there is SD slot, it is located inside the glove box. Look into your car manual. Basically do not use USB but SD and follow the procedure: 1. format SD (max 32GB) under FAT32 2. unpack to root (metainfo2.txt and all the folders must be placed directly on SD, not in any folder) 3. insert SD card into the slot 4. enter Service Menu (long press MENU button)

Ouch, again.

Easy to see which door carrier seals are leaking. After rainfall, or simulated rainfall, just open each door in turn and look at the rubber seal along the bottom of the door opening. Any that have little puddles sitting on the horizontal part of the seal will have leaking carrier seals. There may also be witness marks on the paintwork of the door, just below the door card. This is a right rear doorway on our car, with some water placed where it will appear if there are carrier leaks:

I don't know a way without replacing the lights with annoying error notifications. Out of interest, why do you want to disable them?

Many thanks to all the contributors to this thread! My High Beam Assist stopped working some months ago. Finally got around to doing something about it and bought a s/h unit from a scrapyard for £40 (on eBay - part number 5G0857511D). I have an OBD11, but didn't need to change or modify any coding (original mirror long code was the same as the new, same as shown in posts above), just plugged in the new one and it is working perfectly.

I thought the OP was surprised that the car blew warm air when he set it to 17°C but it was 5°C outside. Myself and others pointed out the challenges with that approach.

I believe MOD vehicles are registered in a different system. Not sure DVLA are even involved?

Yes, it has the Smart Clima, but you can select 'Classic' for those non-Smart controls. Similar to what others have said, I set mine to 21 or 22 all year; rarely anything different - it's best 'Set it and Forget it' clima I've come across in a car.

Maybe depends on the car or / and gearbox though G. With my Octavia MK2 6 speed wet clutch 2005 DSG the sport setting revved the nuts off the thing ...... The normal 'D' setting though was just fine for as if you started uphill it seemed to hold the gear a little longer as you press the accelerator a bit more. Maybe depends on the engine too if Diesel, with the different characteristics PD vs CR

yeah the engine light is EML (Engine Management Light) so I believe anyway. The cause for the light is the O2 Sensor

If the twosome just stuck to facts and actualities and stopped the misinformation that gets posted. It is the Payment of the Higher level of the mobility component of PIP that means you can qualify to LEASE a car from MOTABILITY. Using the money you get paid and can use for anything else and not getting a car. Where is it just about old ladies, it is old or young men or women, and not only DISABLED, it can be a designated driver driving and the DISABLED person maybe can not drive. Old ladies probably never started driving just when old, they might well have driven long before, decades before. They will have had to qualify for DLA or PIP Mobility component before they reached 65 years old to be getting a car from MOTABILITY now. . Rs FAULTY CARS, Motability (The RAC arrange) to get a car for you while the Lease Car is being repaired or pay for taxi,s or refund your payments. Someone feeds the idea that Car Dealers are fined £20,000.... Only Volvo currently available. £3,999 Advance payment and £75/75 a week, going to £29.20 a week in April. Twin motor not available on the scheme. Not being given, being leased.

Yes. Beaulieu Classic Cars in Beaulieu. It's conveniently located just a stones throw away from the National Motor Museum in Beaulieu in the New Forest, Hampshire. https://www.newforestclassiccars.com/

I'm fairly sure that the passenger mirrors are plain and do not "exaggerate" the distance, the drivers one however has a distorted field of vision to cover the blind spot when pulling out to overtake, that of course is far more dangerous than pulling back in. I understand what you are seeking, I looked for it myself for the same reason but what you actually want is a blind spot mirror lens for the passenger side but be careful what you wish for, I got burned!!! The only way to achieve it is to buy a drivers door mirror for the LHD variant of the vehicle which I did and fitted, it was worse than useless because the optics were designed to be viewed by the driver sitting in the seat next to the mirror not the other side of the car.

Hello, Updated from January 2025. Finally, after sending numerous emails and long calls to the importer and the garage, the Webasto remote control from MySkoda app issue has been resolved. It turned out that in the spring of 2024, when the garage replaced the Control Unit for Air Conditioning as a vain attempt to fix the long-open issue with missed scheduled heating, they did not update the module to the better (I don't say right) firmware version. The replaced module had the old version 2101, which has now been replaced with version 2301. After the correct firmware was installed on the module, the Webasto remote control from the MySkoda app was immediately restored. Now, the original problem of randomly missed scheduled heating is back, and it is very soon celebrating its second birthday! At least I reported the issue first on February 1, 2023. Actually, after replacing the air conditioning Control Unit last spring, the missed scheduled heating problem was not solved, but perhaps it became less frequent. On 2025-01-21, I started testing the scheduling again after the firmware upgrade, and since then, the heating has been missed 2 out of 4 mornings. (One plan is configured with weekday morning preconditioning .) I'm basically back where it started 2 years ago. It is unbelievable that nobody is there to identify why the schedule is missed and what should be replaced or the configuration adjusted. Besides having this issue, nowadays, I regularly face the Unavailable status of that car in the MySkoda app in the afternoons/evenings, despite the car always being online in the morning. I believe it started 2024 autumn, but I'm not sure. I even disabled the "Vehicle wake-up" function in the MySkoda app, which has a daily limit of 3, but that did not help. By the way, does anybody have any clue about what wake-up does in the case of Skoda Superb iV? I called Skoda Connect support, and they recommended that I book an appointment at a Skoda garage to restore the functionality without mentioning what the problem is. I believe they have applied some updates to the cloud parts of the infrastructure, and perhaps the OCU must be brought up to a newer version. I think they want me to pay for the fixes, even though Skoda caused the problem by creating a mismatch between the car and the cloud servers. I asked them to clarify the job to resolve the issue. After all, I should make an appointment for something.