Leaderboard

Assuming your car doesn't have start/stop, there's no coding that could be done. If the radio is Skoda original and currently working, it won't need a code after battery change. Just change the battery, it'll be fine. Recheck voltages afterwards, alternator cabling may need a bit of attention if engine-running voltage isn't higher with a good battery fitted.

Looking like your battery is the issue. Get yourself onto tayna's website and order a decent battery. Usually arrives the next day and the coding can wait until you sort yourself out or find a local with the kit. VCDS owners on a map elsewhere on the forum.

Removed a 12" stick which was stuck in front of the nearside rear wheel and which sounded as if a spring had gone everytime I went over a bump in the road. Sometimes look for the easy solution!! At least it saved me a trip to the main dealer to sort out the intermittent grating noise.

Looking like your battery is the issue. Get yourself onto tayna's website and order a decent battery. Usually arrives the next day and the coding can wait until you sort yourself out or find a local with the kit. VCDS owners on a map elsewhere on the forum.

Assuming the meter used is accurate, dropping to below 8.0 volts on start is a confirmation your battery is failing, very likely a decent battery test meter will show high internal resistance along with seriously reduced capacity. If replacing battery, ensure the new one is correctly adapted (coded) into the vehicles BCM - either OBD (with necessary functions) or VCDS will be able to do adaptation.

Condensation, probably normal. I think you should stop chasing phantoms and concentrate on the job in hand, the charging system then worry about things like the temperature warning light which should not be doing what it is but is unrelated. Alternator likely to be worn brushes (new regulator required, easy cheap job) or a bad connection possibly a fracture in the wiring. At 13 years old and 155K miles my money is on worn/sticking brushes, you might be able to gain a little time and miles by freeing them off.

My lad using the smaller of my two EVs to use for his commute to work sometimes as he has moved Depots and has to travel 50 miles further each day. Using his hybrid he would gave to go to the filling station every week to fill up, hybrid, like many newer cars, only has a 40 litre tank or so.. Using my EV two or three times a week he can extend the buying of expensive fuel to every fortnight and the EV can be topped up every other night at home when being used and no time wasting and expensive trips to the fuel station when Using the EV. Helping him save for his first property, saving the world from some considerable pollution and some money going to despots. Getting the 45p a mile extra mileage from employer, happy days.

Just to say I had same misgivings re insurers and a permanently (powered) dash am. I’m with Aviva and checking with them the were happy and said they treated it as an accessory. I have carefully saved the confirming email.

So a couple of weeks on, this is exactly what I've done. I'm collecting a 2020 SEL with the TDI150 next week. In the end I missed out on the iV I originally posted about due to delays with the sale of my existing car through Motorway. When looking at alternatives I found there were many more TDI examples available in my budget.

Hi. I now tray retrofit my octavia 4 on screen 13". In unit MIB3 OI - 5e3035816 have diferent resolution on the screnn. for 13" must by change unit to MIB3GP 5h7035816. Only this unit have SFD2 protection. on foto 13" conecting to MIB3 OI

I think if you have to add say 1L every 12,000 Miles thats nothing. 1/4 of the stick every 3,000, so the full high to low interval after 12,000....who cares. I'd think that after 12K you're nearly ready to change the oil anyway. Could be rings, turbo seals, pcv bypass.....hard to say without doing tests/looking in intake etc. After 200K miles its not like the motor isn't slightly worn. I'd just keep an eye on it.

How about this for a quality tow car? Warrants a better caravan though surely 🤔

Playing with my new camera

Don't forget to reset the one press window up/down feature after replacing the battery. See handbook.

Just remember a few years ago brake pads/shoes and clutches contained asbestos.

I have odb eleven, would that be able to wind them back? More than happy to change them myself and have done multiple brakes before Thanks

Is that the drain plug on the hose on the right side of the engine? I used that one to drain I meant a drain plug specifically on the engine block when I was talking about not finding a plug. I assume there isn't one.

Main fuses as far as I know are in engine compartment in front of battery although there may be a master fuse elswhere. I would put a meter across battery to check its still charged if you suspect fuses. It could very well be the battery itself. Sons was fine in the morning drove around town and started stopped a few times but when he came back it was totaly dead. Battery had failed and obviously wasn't taking charge although no battery light on. Got a new battery and its been fine since. AA were called out and the guy reckond a cell or perhaps two had failed.

You can unplug it virtually immediately, I've had mine off a number of times the only time delay being the time it took to release the airbag from the wheel which will probably take you half an hour first time but once you get the hang of it it can be done in a couple of minutes! Why don't you try and repair your clock spring though? It's not as daunting a task as it might appear and could save you a shed load of money which includes the coding which a new one will require. If not up to it yourself it only needs someone who knows how to handle a soldering iron. I repaired mine not so long back, you can buy a new cable but I was happy with a repair. Re torqueing, simply mark the bolt before you remove it and retighten it to the same spot, a torque wrench is not at all necessary.

@Chris98 I think you´ve made the right choice. Another argue : selling an iV in a couple of years may be hard, since autonomy of the battery will have decreased an its technology will probably outdated…

After I saw a few posts of people going directly to 1941 from 1803 and having the same hardware info as myself ( H56), I have taken the chance and upgraded to 1941 directly . The upgrade went smooth and took about 30 minutes . About a week passed and everything seems in order.

Download link on PM

Can only imagine the fuel tank is sufficiently capacious👍

I'd expect a low temp light to be blue or maybe green.

I always change my oil every year or every 10 000-15 000 km whichever comes first, and always drive it warm before I drain the oil. The old oil wasn't that good either, probably hadn't been changed for a while so I'm happy I changed it pretty much the first thing I did. I didn't really find a drain plug on the block for the coolant so I didn't manage to drain through there sadly, but I needed to get the car working and it's working fine now actually a little bit better than before even I'd say. But when I have the time I'll do a more thorough service, my biggest priority is probably brake fluid then power steering and transmission oil. I'll have to check up on wheel bearings and brakes, etc. as well when I'm at it but I've got a bit too many projects going on at once but hopefully I'll finish one of them soon.

It's good to see 14.2V +/- 0.2 at the battery, with light or no loads switched on. It's a bit temperature dependent, so expect a higher number in cold ambient temperatures with cold engine, and lower if ambient or engine temperature is higher.

The radio reception issues will probably need a new aerial base to sort them out. It has an amplifier built in to it and they can suffer water ingress which corroded the circuit board and stops them working.

Pete has beaten me to it... With a MK2 you should be fine. You'll probably get some error messages initially but a drive around the block and a full left full right turn of the steering should clear them.

Still working

Plot twist: the caravan's full of petrol to keep the motor constantly fuelled.

There you are.

Appreciate your post Kirk, thanks. I've now gone back to a Seat Ateca again, so will have to consider them as they would also be able to service my Ateca being a VAG build vehicle. Couldn't get on with the Kamiq with its heater controls being accessable only via the infotainment system/non electric handbrake and only part LED lights, for a car less than six moths old, one thing I do miss though was its fuel economy easy to obtain 50+ mpg.

Ferodo's advice on bedding in brakes is here https://www.ferodo.com/en-gb/blog/give-brakes-a-break.html There are on-line discussions/videos about resurfacing brake rotors in situ, but the methods are only practicable if the rotor can be spun (ie. on the front brakes of front-wheel-drive vehicles) and it's doubtful that a reputable dealership would attempt it. I drive a new vehicle carefully for the first 200 or so miles, but the only car I've deliberately bedded in brakes was on a VW Golf GTi Mk 1 in an attempt to get the thing to stop! I had fitted Mintex road/rally brake pads and followed the type of procedure shown here https://mintex.com/bedding-procedure/?lang=en-gbr The result was terrible noise from the brakes (front disc/rear drum) and no stopping improvement. I tried everything (even prayer sometimes) to get the Golf to stop from high speed, but nothing worked. It was a well-known problem resulting from VW's hare-brained LHD-to-RHD conversion and a solution only came when a 3rd-party specialist managed to move the brake servo from the left to the right in the engine compartment. Complaints to VW elicited the response "The car will easily pass the UK's MOT brake test". Modern cars have ABS brakes with powerful servo-assistance and the front brakes contribute most (up to 80%) of the braking power. So, even if brand-new rear discs and pads were fitted to Szilvita's Fabia, it's doubtful that the braking performance would be noticeably better. My 2024 Fabia's brakes (disc front/drum rear) need a light touch at low speeds, but so do the brakes of my 2009 Roomster (disc front and rear) that, after 24k miles, is still on its original discs/pads. At speed and driven hard, the brakes of both cars are much less aggressive - which is to be expected will be the case. Szilvita's comment that "When I drove the car home the first time and touched the brake we almost "banged our heads on the dashboard" it was sooo prompt when touching" doesn't surprise me - it's just a question of getting used to a car's characteristics.

VED for £40,000 and over as it is up to April 2025.

As the OP hasn’t been here since Nov 21, I think the series got cancelled!

There was no sign of it leaking. At the cam cover joints in the coil pack tube, the red sealant was visible and appeared to be intact.

The dealer said he would ring me next week to get a slot.

Pretty sure almost all modern engines have covered timing belts. If it is the timing belt then you need it rectified.

Hi All Thanks for all of your advice I'm really grateful. I haven't had chance till tonight to test anything due to work. I have tested the battery on cranking and on the first start the multimeter went down to 7.94 volts and then once started the battery was being charged at 14.79 volts so hopefully the alternator is working fine. The second start the voltage went down to 9.6 volts and I checked the voltage between the positive terminal and the earth and it was close to the running voltage between the battery negative and positive so the earthing for the battery seems fine. The stop start hasn't worked since I have had the car which has only been about a fortnight, I have been on a few longs runs aswell and its made no difference. There's no other electrical bits connected up on the car, I have no way of checking if the battery has been coded or how old it is though. It looks like the battery is on the way out, the astra that I had before in the end was getting harder to start and eventually gave out and wouldn't start at all. Is it the same with the octavia's so if I just keep an eye on it until it gets worse as its starting fine at the moment or is it likely to cause more problems? There's a lot more electronics on this car compared to the astra and there similiar ages but I suspose the Skoda as it's Volkswagon running gear is more advanced, which also means possibly more to go wrong. Is there any preference to the OBDeleven or the VCDS programming? As I'm not sure on which to buy but would like to change the battery myself to save some money on the garage fees and also change some of the bulbs to led's which I have read up will cause error codes. Thanks again for all the replys, they have been a big help

I used to get some weird messages about why S/S wasn't working on a Superb 3 that I used to have. Not much help, more for entertainment. 😀

As I can see the issue: Do not forget the PHEV and the electric drivetrain. The Engine certeainly cannot be more powerful in sport mode(because of emission norms), but the electric drivetrain is strongly limited in the Superb (by software in hybrid mode) compared to the Passat. (Superb overall performance is 350Nm / passat 400Nm). The DUCA(passat) and DUCB(Superb) engines having the same max. 250Nm output, but DUCA can have higher effective rev. by +1000 - 500rpm which results the additional 27hp. Both car having excatly tha same electric drivetrain and gearbox. If you are checking the overall performance: 204hp vs. 272hp the answer is logical. (P/kw) = (T/N-m) * (N/rpm) / 9549 DUCA 177PS@5500-6000 rpm // 250Nm DUCB 150PS@5000 rpm // 250Nm So the Superb using only ~54hp from the electric drivetrain maximum compared to the passat which using ~95hp. It can be an undocumented feature or bug, but the Superb PHEV is stronger in sport mode especially in 100-to 200km/h range, without violating the emission rules.

Not a DVSA Blogger. Government website

Does the reputable company advertise that they remove DPF,s? A nod is as good as a wink to a blind man. The DVSA ^& DfT are not taking it too seriously.

Give me a week or so to get the car put back together and get a fresh MOT then I'll be in a better position to sell. I got the clutch and gearbox on yesterday but I've got everything else still to fit and my youngest started to come out with chicken pox yesterday so that'll be a fun week 😔 Anyway I need a bit of time or else I'm going to get stressed out

I have a mk2. It's great. No issues, no problems and far better interior than the mk1. So glad I swapped.

How do you add stuff to the quick menu? I have the auto hold turned on but every now and again for no apparent reason it turns itself off, then I forget how to turn it on again! Would be nice to have it on the top menu

The 2.0 TSI 265PS has a much higher recommended tyre pressure that any other engine type.

Hi, Did anyone successfully update SW 1810 to newer versions 1969 or 1985? PN: 5E3035816F Hardware: H56 Software: 1810 HMI HW: H44 HMI SW: 2088 I plan to update to SW 1941 and then to 1985. Thanks in advance!

After a few weeks I have become more familiar with the car. Its an amazing all rounder, comfortable, spacious and more than enough power for day to day. DCC is a game changer and I tend to keep it in 'Normal' most of the time but firming it up in 'Sport' is as hard as it needs to be for UK roads. MPG is currently around 28 which isnt bad. I have only been doing short runs except for a visit to my parents in the country. This allowed me to stretch its legs and see its perks. It feels sharp, most likely the Haldex but the back end doesnt just feel like its following the front. This is my first AWD car and although I know its not permanent AWD, it hooks up and goes! I still would like a sharper throttle response however. I am looking at OBD Eleven for some adaptions and maybe some long coding. I know theres an option for more sensitive throttle response which I am going to try before buying a pedal box. Look at the beading too!

After a good clean, it comes up really well!