Leaderboard

Please dont scrap a rare and sought after car for a few minor repairs, sell it to an enthusiast who can repair it, if that person turns out to be Pete even better!

Hi all, so wife has found the starter button being a bit of nuisance sometimes, and now she mentions it, it does feel a little less responsive. There's a few threads about this, where people have given the circuitry a clean to improve things, but I didn't bother: Got an aftermarket one as seen above. I figure a genuine one about £50 or this one for £9.59 from eBay, so buy cheap, buy 5 times sort of situation. Also, something that's been on the back burner. I think @MartinB might be to blame, random rubber bits that go in the door latches! I got these at the same time as some other bits for the future, and were £5.66 for 4, I'll tally shipping in the future. They didn't go straight in, as the rubber bits are a little thick on one side, so went to loosen the bolts holding the latches to the door frame: It's one of those weird bolts, which I think is called a spline? My Halfords tools had one and I think M6 was the one needed. Once loosened a few turns the latches can be wiggled about a tiny bit, just enough to force these things in: Just a bit of persistence really, but they get in. Then retightened the bolts to 18Nm. The workshop manual mentioned 20Nm on certain pages to add to the confusion, but most references were 18Nm. The starter button was straightforward, dropping the lower steering cowl and then using some thin flathead screwdrivers to loosen the tabs. There's loads of threads describing the process, so didn't bother taking pictures. Certainly feels more responsive now, I'll debate whether to clean the old one (probably not). Most of my spare time is being preoccupied with another car, and despite it being aluminium, still has steel bits with rust significantly worse than this! So it'll be luck more than anything if I get time to do more with this one. Maintenance: £2407.39 (+£9.59) Upgrades: £2999.91 (+£5.66) Miscellaneous: £820.07

I think it looks odd because I've pulled the sensor out of the body and didn't undo the guide clip to the righthand side of the sensor, so the cable is pulled taut. I couldn't see any exposed core or wiring, so hopefully it's all fine! I will definitely report back on how I get on. I also have my doubts about the efficacy of these systems but I'd rather not have to disable the system every time I start the car. Though reports conflict, it's not beyond the realms of possibility that a mechanic could fail the car's MOT because a critical safety warning is present. I'm inclined to believe someone wouldn't, but that's a stress I'd like to avoid if possible!

Did the immobiliser chip get moved across from the old key? That's not on the circuitboard, nor in the key blade. Small glass tube a few mm long. Needs gentle removal.

Heavy right foot, low efficiency, light right foot, high efficiency.

I thought it was 'Go woke go broke' not 'go full on Nazi go broke'🤔 https://electrek.co/2025/03/14/tesla-is-done-in-germany-94-say-they-wont-buy-a-tesla-car/

Simples really. VW Group just started putting in 0w 20 FS IV at the factory into most engines other than some TDI,s before they started having to get WLTP Certification. With 1.0 TSI,s it was about when they got GPF,s, the first ones had no GPF. WLTP from September 2017. It was not & is not Backward compatible. So really not pre 2017 / 18 engines. Euro 6 engines were what we got from the end 2015, early 2016.

Cars are scornful of and do not respect "light force". Have at it properly!

There are cheaper options that are similar to the Sealey one - that suits 4 and 5 stud/bolt hubs, I think that I just bought a “no name” one via ebay, a lot like the silver body one that ebay offers when you search for “hub puller”.

Was that you I saw driving into Blackwater Saturday. Looked very nice if it was

I picked up my Elroq Edition 85 Maxx in moon white on Saturday. It is phenomenal! Even when you're not using cruise control, if you're coming up to a junction, a roundabout,a sharp bend or a speed limit change, it warns you and starts to slow down automatically. I drive like a granny most of the time but I tested the acceleration and it is amazing!! It is the best car I've owned.

VW Group are not Oil producers, Tyre or Wiper Blade Manufacturers, Glass Manufacturers or many other stuff that the vehicles need. As it is tyey sometimes buy into the places they procure components then try screwing them over. 0w 30 FS III so VW504 00 / 507 00 is just fine for fixed and vriable if not going to VW502 00 for Fixed oil change intervals.

This one was registered April 2024 so must have been one of the last I suppose. It's the most expensive Mk3 onsale that I can see which is probably why I've had second thoughts about getting a Mk4 as they are similar money. Hopefully it's in Tuesday and I can make up my mind.

Quantum:- https://tps.trade/info/oil/the-quantum-oil-range Thanks. AG Falco

The VW508 0W-20 C5 LL FS oil is recommended for The D series engines. But this oil has less wear protection than the previous VW oils. This is VW505 5W-30 C3 LL FS oil. This oil can also be used in the D series engines. I have a VW UP with a D series engine in it which recommends the VW508 0W-20 C5 oil be fitted. I got the VW dealer to fit it with VW505 5W-30 C3 LL FS oil at the first yearly service. The VW508 0W-20 C5 oil has a potential for 2% better fuel economy over the VW505 5W-30 C3 oil. But this is with the downside of worst engine wear. There are two main differences between C5 and C3. In red below 1: C5 has a lower viscosity than C3. 2: C5 has a lower HTHS rating than C3 which increases the engine wear. HTHS is the abbreviation for “High Temperature High Shear”. See below. 'ACEA C5 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, for further improved Fuel Economy, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable and OEM-approved for use of Low Viscosity Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 2.6 mPa*s.' Car manufactures are tending to use a lower viscosity oil to improve fuel consumption. But the improvement between C5 and C3 is listed as only 2% better. I check fuel consumption so will notice any difference. Since the biggest controller of fuel economy is 'the nut fitted between the steering wheel and the drivers seat' I tend to sort that out first. 'ACEA C3 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 3.5 mPa*s.' HTHS viscosity The HTHS value is a measure of the viscosity of an engine oil under demanding conditions. Defined limit values ensure that even with high-performance engines, the engine oils can maintain a tear-resistant lubricating film in the bearing area at high temperatures and high speeds (shear stability). The unit for measuring HTHS is mPas (millipascal second). If the HTHS value is above 3.5 mPas, the HTHS viscosity is to be classified as normal. An HTHS value below 3.5 mPas is referred to as a reduced HTHS viscosity. 'SAPS stands for sulfated ash, phosphorus, and sulfur.' You need a MID/LOW SAPS oil with an engine with any exhaust emission controls. So to sum up: A lubricant with low HTHS viscosity improves fuel efficiency. A lubricant with high HTHS viscosity offers better protection for engine parts. I keep my cars long term so I want long term engine protection first. If you are in a hotter part of India I would go for the VW505 5W-30 C3. Thanks. AG Falco

I've hit this a few times when trying to view the manual from the app. It really is a pain that there's no physical copy of the manual available.

I cannot see a missing fuse slot available in the picture. If it's a late registered 2014 it could be a MY2015 In which case the fuse is No. 50. https://fuse-box.info/skoda/skoda-octavia-mk3-5e-2013-2016-fuse-box-diagram/amp

Thanks I wasn't sure if the systems interacted indirectly as all are about removing as much from the driver as possible for the days of "driverless" cars. I think if this every comes it will be in limited applications and areas but to many the car is already just an infotainment system on wheels and possibly also going on to a portable battery storage power system. On the cars I've driven with lane "assist" it can be very intermittent in its accuracy of use but you are warned about this in the pages telling you what it can't do or be trusted with. I've tested the one on my neighbour's car a number of times (with him as passenger) and had something like a leaf blowing on a hedge 15 foot back from road verge frighten the poor thing which might explain it later taking revenge when I was proving the centre white lines aren't always recognised when the conditions are good as it requires and it's reaction was slow when required. This car had front, sides and rear cameras, these along with exterior lights, windows, mirrors and reflective number plates I clean as required before driving the vehicle and I was of course exaggerating (a bit) how nervous the system is, and of course at no point did I put anyone or thing at danger (there's always risk) and my neighbour used to be an amateur rally navigator in the 1960s so his only real concern being a Yorkshire man was mpg, On another occasion I proved to him following the car's gear selection/change suggestions doesn't, always at least, give best fuel economy, well yet anyway. These systems can be very reliable, within their limitations, so very reliable in that sense, but they should not be fully relied on as a driver, they do offer assistance on many occasions but not always.

I'm pretty sure that the front assist being unavailable is not a MOT critical failure - as it can be deactivated by the driver. Apart from a few occasions where mine has thrown a brief warning where there was no real risk of a collision - usually when I was overtaking a vehicle that was turning-off to the left in front of me - I've found the system pretty reliable.

The front radar doesn't affect the steering - just the proximity warning and, eventually, the full ABS avoidance braking. If fitted, lane assist steering intervention is monitored by the front (A5 ?) camera.

Sorry, wrong subject area, new to this forum. Can it be transfered to somewhere more appropriate? Brian

I'll try a couple of methods next time, and will feed back what I find. Trouble is, with my memory, I keep forgetting which is the best one🤦‍♂️

That was seriously stuck!. Sometimes it just wont come apart no matter what you do. Hopefully you can get the broken stud out eventually. Alasdair

Congrats on your purchase @Vfr400boy 👌😀.

Got your point on fuel efficiency thing and appreciate you taking out time to respond to my queries here. Currently I am extracting ~10 Km / Ltr in city conditions and ~16 Km / Ltr on highways. Yes, VW 1 L TSI DSHA does has a GPF. No, we don’t have severe cold climate temperatures here in India. The lowest it goes is 5 degree Celsius, that too in peak winter months of Dec-Jan. Otherwise it is ~30-40 degree Celsius usually with peaks reaching ~48 degree celsius during summers. Thanks,

@Ootohere Superb 11/2018 2.0 140kw 116k km

Hello JL, welcome to the forum. There should not be any movement in the radar sensor, check that the mounts haven't been damaged or broken. Hopefully the sensor will be undamaged if it's just been displaced in a parking bump. Radar will almost certainly require recalibration if the mounts are replaced.

Not all dealer service techs are born equal. I too have had no issues with my dealer. Changing to another product won't guarantee a better car or dealer service, so better keep your Basil branch handy for the future, just in case...😜

Oh yes it was the alloy first. Did that a couple of times. And freeze sprayed the stud. Then tried really heating the stud to see if I could free it. No joy. All the hammering and leverage had also weakened the stud I think. Yes I do have reverse drills but in this case they just drilled a hole. I managed to get out some old stud out with a centre punch. I think this is one of the toughest jobs I've ever done.

Yes, that is how I do it when the piston requires excessive torque to retract, I attach the caliper with one mounting bolt through the upper fixing hole into the lower tapped thread or the lower one with it swinging loose, one or the other, I can't recall which, maybe either.

Il faut communiquer en Anglais sur ce forum. "try this" voulait dire essayer en Anglais en utilisant Google Translate.

We now have a yeti! Needs a few jobs doing but I think it should tidy up OK, unfortunately I have to sell my fabulous fabia now

Many thanks for your replies. The breakdown transporter guy came from 20 kms away within the hour guaranteed by my insurance company (Direct Assurance). He was able to start the car with a hefty jump starter unit. I then drove it 5 kms to the garage that fitted the battery in January. They parked it up inside the garage, switched off the ignition, then tried to restart it, and... no go. So, the car is at the garage over the weekend and will be fixed on Monday. I'm so glad I had that zero kms breakdown option on my insurance policy!

If it was heavy and the only change was parts, it's likely something is incorrectly fitted... It's not advised to reset a module as there is a good chance it'll wipe config data which will need ODIS to replace. This might be part of your issue but hopefully not. Another VCDS user had similar fault codes and an independent with ODIS fixed it within minutes: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/31747/ Still, I'd be looking at which basic settings are shown in both the ABS and steering assist modules. You might need to do more than one thing to both initialise then calibrate the steering angle sensor. You can then move on to the end stops. Random example from online:

Rubber forever. I live in a dirty country, plus snow as well .... Great idea the vents, me will look for them also.

It's a timing chain on the CBZA, but some garages will be happy to take your money for changing the belt.

Looks super..congrats! Are those 20 inch wheels?

Off topic of pre orders, but I took delivery of my dealer stock Elroq 85 Edition this morning, so if anyone want's any info please ask, happy to help!

Superb IV was serviced today, and the garage asked 'why have you for two extended warranties'? I have only just renewed after receiving an email from Skoda two weeks ago saying 'Your extended warranty is running our, please renew' which I did. I trusted them. But my garage said the first one (including servicing) didn't actually run out until November, so I'd be paying for two. They gave me the number of VW Finance, who confirmed the initial policy, which runs to November. But they said they were unaware of the second. However they said Skoda do their own extended warranties, nothing to do with VW Finance, (and gave me their number) as actually do a third sanctioned private company on Skoda's behalf. All say Skoda extended warranty, and come with their letters, emails, marketing books. Nice chap, Abdullah, was very sympathetic, up to the point of actually helping (typical 'Customer Services' in other words). So I rang Skoda direct, and yes, it was their email I received last month and which I signed up to. I asked 'Why did you say my extended warranty was running out' when it wasn't. They explained they couldn't see the VW Finance one and the 'Your warranty is expiring' is simply a marketing ploy, true or not. I've cancelled this new policy, but it feels like another con, and many thanks to Winchester Motors for spotting it. And black mark, another, for Skoda for having duplicate systems which can't see each other, and conning customers. You've got to be so sharp these days.

The below foam and jack kit for the Fabia MK3 includes everything, except for the actual spare wheel...which you can purchase separately. Thjs kit normally uses the standard Fabia MK3 15" wheel which is 185/60R15 fitted to a 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 rim...normally steel if it's a spare wheel. The foam and jack kit can be ordered from any VAG parts department by quoting OEM part number 6V0093860B. The Czech price is about £49, but the UK price can be slightly more...perhaps up to 20% more or so. 6V0093860B https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz Google "alcar 7760 mytyres.co.uk" to find a listing on mytyres for an Alcar 7760 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 steel rim. Currently priced at £43.47 including shipping to the UK from Germany. This is an aftermarket steel rim that exactly matches the original Skoda steel rim. Alcar are made in Switzerland, so as you would expect are OE quality. This steel rim can be ordered from mytyres with a fitted tyre of your choice. One option is a Continental UltraContact 185/60R15 84H.

I also set gap to maximum - safest whilst I get to know it. Whilst it is impressive, I agree you still have to have your wits about you as it is not foolproof. I cant see any easy way of switching to old style cruise control so you probably cant.

Hello gentlemen. Any update on this topic? Im about to purchase the Mk4 pre-facelift RS, but the problematic infotainment is helping me to resist... For me... implementing the facelifted 13" infotainment into pre-facelift car would be dreamy solution and no brainer So im really interested in this topic, yet i wasnt able to find any more info about possible replacement than in this thread. Thanks you very much see ya

& not all 1.0 or 1.5, TSI with a DSG are jerky from a start, just as all 1.2, 1.4 or 1.8 TSI,s or 1.6 TSI,s with a DQ200 DSG are not.

You can try adding some textile tape. On mine the ambient light strip inside the trim made some noise. Anyway Octavia is full of noises, You succeed to fix one and 10 new will appear.

Hello @matrix2020, Just visit your dealer with TPI No.: 2068282/3 which stands for Digital instrument panel (FPK) - flickering indicator in your hands, and ask them to update the software version on the Instrument Cluster (module 17). I've had exactly the same problem that has been fixed one year back with the update to version 5370 for my car. Good luck! 2068282.3 Digital instrument panel (FPK) - flickering indicator.pdf

Proceeded to the doors today. Started out with the rear right since I've had an annoying rattle coming from that one. Upon removing the door card I discovered there's no way of getting to the outside panel anymore, without removing the window and the whole lift assembly. I applied 2.2mm butyl mats to the most resonant parts of the inner frame. The door card didn't have any sort of deadening material on it, so I applied butyl on the worst sounding surfaces and topped everything off with 15mm CTK WaveFix acoustic foam.

Just a minor point here, the car will only coast if it is "ECO" mode or "Individual" where "ECO" has been selected along with other settings and when coasting the gear indicator will show just "E" or otherwise it will display "E2", assuming your car has the DCC system, otherwise the only way to actually coast is by knocking the transmission into neutral. Could the grinding possibly be coming from the brakes actually sticking a little bit and thus slow in releasing themselves?