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Lovely this afternoon...........

Personally I would buy the pro kit and do it myself. Not only do you then know the job has been done correctly, but in my experience OBDeleven is an invaluable tool to have for many other reasons.

After years of SUV's (Mainly diesel) I made the switch to Superb L&K petrol. I'm a similar age and found I wasn't enjoying driving anymore. If you go L&K you will get DCC standard so when you are in the mood for comfort you can have that and when you are in the mood to push on a bit just firm up the ride. As for petrol vs diesel. If you are used to running a 3.0V6D Velar and only do 12k miles a year I'd go petrol all day long. Also worth remembering that petrols are not the gutless units of old. The 265 petrol has 400NM of torque at 1650-4350rpm. The 193 diesel has 400NM of torque at 1750-2000rpm so it's the petrol that actually has the low down torque advantage.

I bought a 69 plate face lift SEL 2.OTSI 190 hatchback . It was manufactured in July 2019 and has been brilliant with no trouble . Besides all the facelift updates - new front and back matrix LED lights ( worth it alone) mine still has the detachable light in the boot and has fitted extras such as 19 inch canopus alloys, digital cockpit and self park , It was a Skoda head office registered car ( KY69 ) which i believe may have been considered for the launch reviews The engine is very quiet and responsive and the 7 speed DQ381 is free of hesitation and butter smooth.

Forgot the vacuum cleaner, but took along a pal to help with unscrewing the lock ring that holds the pump in (two hammers opposite sides of the ring 'turrets'). Wouldn't have got it off on my own, I think. Also wouldn't have got the fuel hoses off, cos I hadn't brought my glasses and couldn't see how the latch worked. He did. Anyway, having ordered the business part of the pump from GSF, but not yet collected, we went to the car to eyeball the pump, to see how easy it would be to fit just the above 'fuel pump swirl pot' section as opposed to an entire pump assembly (half the price for just the pump). Just before we left, it occurred to me that another thing to check whilst in there would be the connections to the pump motor itself (not the external 4-way loom connector, but internal spade connections. Pic of similar connections stolen from an ebay ad for an aftermarket pump: One was nice and tight, just a plain male/female 1/4" spade, the other was one of the flag type connectors with a latch so it can't come off. It hadn't come off, but it was as loose as a goose, and there was no sign of the usual 'fresh metal scrape' you get when you disconnect a good one; all dull metal. Squeezed each side of the receptacle with some little pliers, reassembled everything. Fixed. 😁

Digital Dash (Virtual Cluster) was introduced from MY18 onwards, along with the MIB2.5 unit with the 9.2" screen. Up until then it was the analog dash, MIB2 units with the 8" screen. MIB3 came along from MY20 onwards. Same digital dash. As for the 2019 2.0TSi feeling as slow as the 1.5TSi - that's not right. Was it the 190, 220 or 280? I test drove both the FWD 220 and AWD 280, before I ended up getting the 220. With a smaller turbo than 280, the 220 is a lot more responsive and peppy driving around. Apart from off the line, it is in every way just as quick or even slightly quicker than the AWD 280.

Good to know there are still some honest garages around.

Tentative good news. Chain timing all OK as far as I can tell. Compression good across all three. All plugs look OK, but barely smell of any fuel. Something appears to have nested above the fuel pump... ...but I have volts at the connector when cranking. No sound of whirry fuel pumpingness though when cranking. And tellingly (thanks @bigjohn for reminding me to check basics) no fuel comes out of the schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail when I push the pin in. Fuel lack appears to be the problem. Car is parked about 500 metres from a GSF where they have a choice of pump brands in stock. Might not be game over for the Fabia after all. 😁 Edit. Note to self; take handheld vacuum cleaner with me when I go back to change pump!

I had a problem with the fuel tank cap on one car I owned, removing the cap caused a little sigh as air rushed in! the car was fine afterwards. Don't forget to replace the cap. On my Ford Focus the problem was again a fuel cap but this one left me crossing a roundabout with my caravan it took a long time to sort out, finally by a car tech reading all the alerts put out by Ford over several years! the car was fine towing and cruising just idling under some circumstances the engine would stop, by the time a breakdown van arrived the engine would restart and no fault recorded.

did they check gasoline is goin normally in cilinders, or theres no spark. it can be only one of this. on my friends car, not a skoda, but renault, in the fuel tank, on the cap there is a small valve, like a small hole, plus a large vent. it was clogged for him and during a long drive he could no longer start because the fuel supply system was under pressure. after 15 minutes of standing, it returned to normal and started normally. it is necessary to check whether it throws fuel at the nozzles.

See my response in your other thread - after accounting for the core return, I'll have paid about £120 each for the official remanufactured calipers by TRW, in the correct colour. The only difference from the Skoda supplied part is the VW logo being ground off!

Springs and Shocks all replaced with Bilsteins, also had the drop links done at the same time. The bushes were all in good condition, so were fine. Car is so much better now. I've done around 500 miles, including narrow country roads and motorway work. It is so much more stable under braking, cornering and general handling, who would have thought it! Worth spending the money.

Should anyone ever have the need to courier their DQ200 mechatronic unit for repair, I can confirm it's drained weight is a fraction over 10kg. Packaging would obviously increase the total. I've just sent mine off to ECU Testing at a cost of £32 ( declared <15kg ) which was for guaranteed 1pm next day + max insurance. Non-guaranteed delivery and lower insurance value price starts about £14.00

Left rear brake caliper 310x22mm 1KW 5F0615423 Right rear brake caliper 310x22mm 1KW 5F0615424 Carrier for left rear brake caliper 310x22mm 1KW 8U0615425A Carrier for right rear brake caliper 310x22mm 1KW 8U0615426A https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/805/6/615/615065

I came from a Audi A4 estate into a L&K Petrol 4x4. It's comfortable and cavernous! I do hear some DCC noise over rough roads in town. Out on the motorway it is very quiet. But with it set to soft you dont feel the pot holes. I driven with a big load in teh boot and the engine handles it very well. On the cash front ask the dealer. I found some will find cash discount options that dont appear to be advertised!

Check the Owner's Manual for your car, usually several methods. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

Great news re compression!

The colour is the same and new caliper matches 5 year old carrier just fine. Here's a photo, not the best lighting but should give you an idea at least.

I used glue for cars.. like for the window or body.. i dont know the name in english.. https://amzn.eu/d/jfcbc70

Had an email from Skoda UK today with the code for my 2000 free miles. I've put it into Powerpass and it equates to £500 credit

Go for agm and ofbeleven. The people saying you can't change the type are idiots. I went from efb to agm and there is a code for the battery type

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/bosch/s4e08/

Generally you need an 096 battery which works out at generally 70Ah. I would go for a Varta or Bosch (same difference). EFB battery is fine. An S04 E08 Bosch battery is perfect. Even made in Czechia. and yes to buying your own Pro ODBeleven and doing it properly yourself. PS ..avoid Halfords at all costs.

The 2 sat nav antennas ,ebay, arrived today opened up the plastic outer cover, they are only push fit As I measured 12v on the blue Fakra connector , I carefully soldered a LM878L05 regulator on the pcb, discarded the long coax with a Female Fakra connector as the Skoda one is male, so just soldered the original lead on the pcb. the metal cover is only soldered on two corners easy to remove Plugged it in on the car , and a correct GPS position. :) Measured the DC voltage at the connector with board connected and it was 4v, NO need to fit a 5v regulator as the supply to the antenna is current limited, so used the second board without any supply regulation, and functional. The ebay boards are to big to fit in the cast housing so glued the new board in., I will try and repair the original board, as there is NO filtering on the ebay sat nav antennas. So will be useless in high RF fields . They are cheap , but its a fix coating less than 10 quid

I can assure you that the 190 engine is anything but sluggish - I rarely use sport mode unless I am playing stick with the BMW on A roads!! Wonder if the test vehicle was a 1.5?

This thing is going pretty well. Slackened the clutch cable some more and that's stopped it slipping. Had it up in Enniskillen Easter Monday for a car show, good mix of driving. Had changed coolant and adjusted the timing a little so it was more a shakedown run than anything. Fairly packed, weather was horrid so made it a bit of a wash. Some nice stuff at it. Just the weather put a damper on it. Filled up with some e5 since I was up north and got 50mpg on the way back. Very surprised. Seems to be going well, really hoping it'll do goodwood in a few weeks. Installed an Oil pressure gauge too. Fixed up some wiring to the spotlamps aswell. Only thing I'd like to get sorted is the starter but we'll have to see.

Bit more work done. Repaired the foglamps, Cleaned up the interior and dyed the carpets. And got a strut brace for it. Also got a replacement (used) battery for free. Better job than the one in it so. Still leaking oil, think I've traced it to a sandwich plate for the oil temp sensor. Driving well, majority of my list is already done. Nothing stopping me driving it now really. Bit better on fuel seemingly with the new caliper on.

I do. I bought the car,new and I do EVERYTHING on it (except tyre change), myself.👍

Interesting

Yep, they are a little rare. Especially a TSi L&K. As production years went on more petrol and fewer diesels were registered though. I managed to get one of the last L&K's off the production line. But I'd been waiting months for one to come up for sale, managed to get an 8 month old car from Skoda with quite a few options fitted.

1_000 rpm seems high to me on a hot engine. That said, 750 seems a little low with a slushbox; I'd expect more like 850.

Maybe to get better replies, can you confirm if this an early chain driven cam shaft 8V engine, or the later belt driven 16V engine - I know SEAT were a bit slow in changing over to the later engine in some small cars? Turbo/exhaust at the front = early chain driven cam shaft 8V engine. Edit:- as VCDS is not seeing/reporting any issues, I'd think that it is not any crankshaft sensor, so maybe engine coolant temperature is giving out wrong values but they are still within the expected temperature window. The fuel tank purging system might need checking as well.

Can we assume the Air Filter is new or very clean and the airbox checked for nothing obstructing, no mouse nests?

mechanic said those are most confortable. it does matter to me because i have sciatica issues.. harder ones are bilstein, Kayaba..

I sent you PM

There's no schedule for changing the rear differential oil but the haldex clutch pack is in the same rear assembly and the fluid for the haldex should be changed at 30k miles or 3 years for UK cars. Most owners also have the pump removed and the gauze cleaned at the same time.

Assuming you are talking about 310mm diameter rears, have a look at TRW BHS1701E or BHS1702E from Autodoc, depending on which side you need. They are the remanufactured part numbers for the original TRW calipers, painted in the correct shade of red for the vRS. One of my rear calipers refused to rewind so I was already looking at disassembly & overhaul, but as both were flaking paint I decided to swap them as the simplest cure. The paint on the carriers was fine though, so some added expense if yours need attention. I paid about £300 for the pair and am due £60 odd back, if/when I return the originals.

I've not dealt with them but I would if the part I wanted I knew wasn't on back order, which you'd have to check with them first and hope their stock computer listing system is up to date. See - "I was able to order online but I have received an email that says the item is out of stock". - https://skodapartsdirect.co.uk/faq/ If you do order from them let us know how you get on.

2013 Superb Estate with +100k miles on it here. Had the 4 wheel alignment done with new tyres, also running CrossClimate2's. I've just replaced springs, shocks and drop links on the car as the suspension was horribly soft and clunky. One rear shock was misting, so it was time to do them all. Big difference is that the car handles a lot better now. Even tyre wear since the alignment and better fuel consumption as well. Been pleased with how it all handles now.

Don’t think so. Obviously with the different screen options you can have one with a larger Speedo number and larger gear selection but the speed is at the top which presumably makes more sense as it should be at the top rather than the bottom for visibility. I would have specced the HUD personally but I ended up just getting a car from stock that pretty much had what I wanted without a 5 month wait. I was so over the car researching and buying process by then I just wanted it done!

Hi, I have the same car 2023, also the grey color. Bought it last year, imported from Belgium . Then you get more options as in the Netherlands. I,m very happy with this car . I wise you a lot of joy with your Karoq.

A quick update on this. Booked the car in at a reputable indy for a coolant change and a check of the expansion tank for the silica bag. I was quoted around £170 which included the replacement of the expansion tank if it was found to contain the silica bag. Received a phone call a couple of hours after dropping off to say that they had done a test of the coolant and found that it’s well within the operating range. In addition they said there was no silica bag present (MY20 car) or any signs of contaminants in the coolant. I was advised that there was no need to replace the coolant and it’d be a waste of money although they were still happy to proceed if I wanted. I chose not to go ahead as, bar the noticeable colour difference, there is no evidence to warrant the change. All the fluid levels are checked regularly so I’ll follow up if there are any significant changes.

Had a nice meander around the Bluebell walk in Arlington today. It still might be a bit early - another week and it'll be in full bloom I reckon: And this friendly little Robin hopped up right next to me on the back of a seat I was on: Gaz

One other think to take into account with latest MY20 or MY21 is supply chain problems. Many car manufacturers have downgraded the equipment level, to make cars come out from their assembly lines faster and avoid customers waiting up to 18 months for their car delivery. For instance some Peugeot 2008 Mk2 were fitted with needle tachometers and revometers instead of virtual cockpits as specced. I know some Audi were downgraded too. I don’t see why Škoda Superb would not have been impacted too…

Looking through the brochures for each year can give a guidance as to what was fitted as standard to each model and what was an optional extra. https://autocatalogarchive.com/skoda/

the facelift so the introduction of the MIB3 units, which is far less stable than the previous MIB2.5 (with 9.2" screen) and MIB2 (with 8" screen) units. a lot more issues have been reported with them. lots of changes with the various control modules - gateway, lane assist, A5 camera, headlights & central electrics. as a result, many of the VCDS/OBDEleven coding that works on the pre-facelift will not work on the facelift. in addition, a number of things on the facelift now cannot b simply enabled, like TSR (traffic sign recognition). the Canton on the facelift is also a downgrade. u loose the boot torch. the boot strut hinges on the facelift wagon r a weaker design and r known to fail. There is a TSB out for it.

When I test drove a 2022MY SEL in early 2022 it didn't have the digital dash (an option at the time) but when mine arrived late 2022 (2023MY) it came with the digital dash, so not sure exactly when this became standard but sometime in the later half of 2022, worth looking for one with the digital dash if finances permit, but if you've never had one you won't miss it.

? Are you checking the oil cold, then checking as required, once oil up to normal operating temp, so an indicated 90*o on the car, stopped on the flat and dipped after a few minutes. 4 to 5 minutes that is. Not over filling and not running it low. It takes more than 3.6 litres. Also it is or can be 1.3 litres low before a Low Oil warning comes on. It can be a Low Oil Pressure Warning comes on first. Red Oil Can, or a message. ? Are you using E5 Super unleaded? 97 or 99 ron. & giving it a good blast once up to temperature.?

Once again doing things... Blue mirror glass! Been wanting to do this for ages, so finally bit the bullet since mine were delaminating and generally being a nuisance as a result. It's quite the change, I've yet to try them at night though. Need to extend the wires that go to the heating element too, but that's low on the priority list just now. Today (14/04) was a trip to Inverkeithing with my mate to pick up some odds and ends for our Fabias. Somehow I left with a Flamenco Red bumper that was in a much better condition than mine. The car will never be a proper "show" car, but I like it looking well. Is this what the vRS boys mean by a "wide mouth" for the intercooler? All the better with the new bumper on, though. Reg plates coming as well, fresh set to fit.

I've got it but I don't need to be using Android Auto for it to happen. Happens almost every day. I've taken it to the garage who are aware that there are issues (possibly a RAM problem) but don't have a fix. This says to me that 1) Skoda know they have a problem but don't know how to fix it 2) Skoda know they have a problem and are working hard to fix it 3) Skoda know they have a problem but can't be bothered to fix it 4) Skoda are in denial that they've got a problem My guess is somewhere between 3 and 4. Not blaming the local garage as they've always been excellent, but having owned Skoda's for quite a few years now, the customer service aspects from head office have gone right downhill