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Sunset, middle of nowhere, somewhere north of York: Gaz And tonight’s (Saturday): G

Where, incidentally we’re in the company of eight Peacocks: And the owner was nice enough to tell us where they roost, and where to not park! 💩 G

Wellllll I MAY have made a mistake, but it's just tin and I have a welder. But generally I'm pretty close to getting the new panel weldable in. Perhaps tomorrow.

Been meaning to update. Didnt make retrorides yet again, this time was a vacuum leak on the carb. Could only get thin gasket sheet locally, tried it. Worked. For about 5 miles. So got it back to the shed and took the mx5 Ill post some stuff in that thread. Trying to get some thicker sheet just have to wait. Also changed the oil and air filter ahead of that. One good thing is while subaru hasnt made anything for it in 20 years, Toyota still makes some parts for their older coronas etc. I work at a toyota garage now so was able to cross reference aftermarket numbers back to toyota oe numbers, and so ive got decent fuel filters, exhaust mounts, condensors, etc from it. Pretty cheap too. Now have a lift and all too.

You push the direction of the vent towards the middle of the two vents and that turns that particular vent off..... Air flow can be lessened on that vent by positioning it to be just before it is turned off completely.

@Lee01 @Ootohere Only one was AI i think. The others were general questions asked / reported by others. I know a lot of misinformation is from numpties reading and repeating other peoples misinformation ........ I mean, do people not read what they have written .... I guess not. Logically I would think that softer compound tyres were quieter..... Sizes being equal and all that .........

I personally wouldn't buy it. I'm not a fan of car supermarkets. I prefer to buy at auction, or privately or from a specialist. I personally would be willing to go for a higher mileage car that was a lot cheaper. In March this year I bought a 152,000 mile 2016 Superb Greenline Executive Estate for £3800 from a private seller via Facebook Marketplace. I'd find it really difficult to justify spending £12,000 on a 10 year old car.

Got quite close to the Forth Bridge: Where we had a little picnic: Then visited the Rosslyn Chapel: Amazing place 😎 No signs of Messrs Hanks nor Da Vinci 🙄 Gaz

If he's traveling for work, will he be driving anywhere with a ulez? There are a few around now and it's one thing to keep in mind these days whether a diesel is worth it.

I'd completely forgotten about that. May have to try and remember...

I think you'll be fine. This is a reasonably light load. Compliments on the Super Seven! 😉 I towed a Dacia Spring on a two-axle trailer is it was fairly effortless, I used DCC on Sport to minimize a bothering "shunt" that I never had on my earlier haul-car ... but being a P38 Range Rover is much heavier and with separate ladder chassis ...

I have this problem (and many others) regularly with my Spanish registered Octavia 2024 1.5 Estate PHEV. I wish I had declared the car to be unfit for purpose and returned it for a full refund when the problem first came up. I agree with you that this is unacceptable.

Light has come on again after a day of not driving, same thing, got to driving, turned the AC on and the amber EPC light was on and stop start error. Will be going for a diagnostic on tuesday

That was from a battery charger - as I was curious about how high the cars 'system' charges I checked yesterday after a 200 mile run - I gave the car 30 minutes to settle and then run a basic test - 'State of charge 98%' - 12.64v - 395amp out of a 420 rated battery. So the car's charging system does top up much higher than I thought - I did a similar test on our Superb and that (IIRC) only showed 66% - although that battery was replaced under warranty. Either way, I wouldn't like to letting either of our Skodas stand for 4 weeks - my trusty old 2010 Golf however..........not a problem. In my garage / yard I leave the Karoq unlocked when I know it's not required for a couple of weeks or so because I've convinced myself it doesn't 'run down' as quick - I'm thinking the Kessy system must drain a bit whilst constantly awaiting / searching for a command?

There are also different hardware versions; mine was swapped out as part of the investigations/diagnosis of the MPH/KPH issue nigh on four years ago. Later the s/w update for flickering gauges. All under warranty. AFAIK it’s a dealer/specialist job like @WaveyDavey mentioned.

My sportline delivered a couple of weeks ago had Sagittarius wheels but no inserts! Not that I wanted them!

you have something here https://github.com/olli991/mib-std2-pq-zr-toolbox/issues/93

Yup it was only that, I don't hear it anymore and it was a quite a cheap fix 15e glad it wasn't something worse also that was an common issue kn audi 1.4 tfsi engines (or 1.5 not sure)

My mistake, missed your post on previous page and concentrated on the pipe you linked! Thanks for your reply though. I'm confident it will fit, I'll do it tomorrow when the extra clamp arrives.

It happened because I thought he was translating himself. You are right, I will continue the forum by translating now 😊

Just want to say thanks for this thread. I'm collecting my '72 Sportline Karoq today, which has the gross aero inserts. I've already ordered the bits to remove them, in advance of collecting it. Dealer quoted approx £90 to do it, but I've found the bits for less than £30.

So for anyone who has similar problems ours in now fixed. We had an oil leak from the cover and a diesel leak from the low pressure return line in at least one place. Final replacements were the high pressure feeds to 3 and 4, new orings on the return line and a new return line. The problem with fault diagnosis and taking things in and out is that most of the parts are considered single use and to be replaced after they are removed. If anyone has leaks from the oil seals around the injectors my advice is don’t bother getting new seals for the cover, get a new third party cover as the seals come with it. A lot of the time the cover cracks anyway when you pop the new seals in due to age and heat damage. The tiny green o rings for the low pressure line need to be swapped every time you pop the lines. Obviously (and sadly) the hold down bolts and arguably the sealing washers and orings for the injectors need replacing every time you pull of fiddle around. Just my own personal findings!

@2stroke Does the history of the VAG Workshop Service Plan show that the the Skoda Workshop changed the spark plugs at 40,000 & 80,000 miles. It is just that Spark Plug replaced is not part of Service Plans commonly, as Brake Fluid changed at 3 years and each 2 years are not. They are extra payment items, like the AC Service is.

Possibly, but tyres are an extremely complex component on the car, I would guess (no real idea) that tread pattern and a lot more also contributes something. Generalisations are just that, but you have to start somewhere. Bit unfair to blame people for what they are told by others and then accept, truth and accuracy can be so subjective and truth and accuracy changes with time and with who (or what now and in the future) has and controls or hides or destroys, the information. Given the tyre labels I'd not fully trust what a tyre manufacturer puts on their label given the evidence of my own experiences, anyway VW owners more than most know test figures can be manipulated. Yes, and how is the chauffeuring going . . . 😄

IME and i change all cars / vehicles i get from the tyres they come on which are nearly always Summer / All Year round tyres as UK cars get to All Season, All Weather or All Year round tyres. Softer Compounds, sometimes wider tread and sometimes narrower. No idea about the difference in noise as a bit Mutt & Jeff. But i know it has been years since i heard anyone scream or the noise you get as you go in a ditch, through a wall / fence etc.

I agree with the 1.9tdi. Have had three now and no real probs at all plus a bit easier to work on than the 1.6tdi. Might be a problem finding one with lowish mileage and good condition as I think your right with upto 2010. Have read a few reports re 1.6 injector issues but so far my 1.6tdi has been fine. DPF is another thing but as long as he takes car out for decent runs etc should be ok. Will look for elegance/LandK spec and see what I can find. Hes happy with the Fabia but wants something more modern/luxury etc. I reckon he should get something a bit larger as he is going to be travelling a bit with his work and I would prefer him driving something a bit heavier and safer. I had proper volvos for years but not sure what there like now. His fabia has been great. Its only done about 70k and so far a new battery,wheel bearing and I did the clutch as it totalled itself. Thanks for the replies Alasdair

Re the flywheel teeth, they do take a bit of a hammering from the Bendix starter pinion, not usually too much of a problem if only the leading edge. Don't forget to add the mandatory small coil of fencing wire to the spares kit 😄

A VWFS Service Plan was running 2021-2025 then another oddly from 2023-2027 which is nice. Does not mean they Service to the Manufacturers recommendations, guidelines, schedules or specifications though. ** Covered by a VWFS Service plan now. As to a DQ381 there should be no confusion over one of those, they are not available in 2015 when the car was built so that was a known known in 2020 and when a service plan was put in place on 30/11/2021 @ over 50,000 miles.

welcome to the forum ! Just a teeny reminder that the forum does use english as its base language. I know google translate isnt perfect, but it doea a good job of helping people out with getting help 😁

I would say it is not somuch in the mileage by itself, but in the "mix" urban/extraurban. While in the open my 280 is brilliant also fuel economy wise, in the city is is chugging fuel at an amazing rate for such "brilliant" engine, with numbers that reach 13-16l/100 which is not economical at all. Weird I was expecting it would be more efficient, but it is not, no matter the driving.

Hi, There's one point that that is often forgotten or not mentionned to explain why there's an important price difference between real OEM and OEM-like tow bar: 2nd fan for radiator cooling! If you intend to use a tow bar just for a bike carrier or a small trailer, I think an OEM-like tow bar can do the job. BUT if you intend to tow a caravan, I would say an OEM-like tow bar may be a kind of gambling with your engine, which is not worth the money saving compared to the real OEM. Just to sum up the specific functions related to tow bar option, when a trailer is plugged: Parking sensors disabled Rear fog light disabled (to avoid reflexion on the front of the caravan and being dazzled in the centre rearview mirror). ESP anti-sway function activated Trailer assist function activated on the reverse cam screen. Control laws of the 2nd radiator fan implemented Maybe some others I don't remember. All of these must be added using VCDS. The wiring alone is not enough... Then choose the right one for your needs, but with full awareness. 😉

K I meant high voltage battery indeed, not the 12V

Depending on how much you love the car, haha, you could pretty much replace all the baby stick with the standard grey cloth. Anyone breaking an Octavia could sort you out.

OBDEleven did it for me. 2023 car. Thanks. AG Falco

Took my Superb into Skoda today for its 5th variable (longlife) service. I had it from new, its now a little over 2 1/2 years old and just reached 90k miles, front brakes still fine but the rears were 90% worn so new discs and pads fitted. It came with continental tyres when new, these were replaced at 35k (at one year old) with Pirelli P7 which are still on and have proven to be extremely good from a wear point of view (I can't fault them in any way for my usage - mainly motorway), the fronts are still on 3.5mm the rears 6mm.

I DO NOT recommend the ATE Ceramic front pads. They've eaten away at the discs in just 20,000 km, and they vibrate a lot when braking. Furthermore, the pads have barely worn down over those 20,000 km, so all they do is not stain the rim. I'm going to switch to OEM.

It's a cracking car but I still think the MK1 Octavia has it beaten on looks. I reckon I'll be back in another one day & seeing what you have done to yours is great to see.

@doluck : I don't keep them that clean. I only wash them from time to time with a nylon brush and dishwashing liquid and a bit of elbow oil. ;) The rest of the time, I have to say, they're dirty / dusty 😐 I haven't found yet how to levitate kids on the back row. 😁

This internet can be such a pain at times!!! Anyway, on the subject of tyres, I usually have a watch of a few of this guys videos to help inform my decision. As always, reviews are subjective but at least he discusses the differences. The website is quite informative too. https://youtube.com/@tyrereviews?feature=shared

I have the car for 4 years from the end of this year and the BIK is going up to 18% for the last two years so it will rise a lot which I have to take into account. It all depends on the contribution I have to make as well as the 2 amounts together might make sense or might not.

Stunning 👌

And 3! 3rd consecutive clean MOT. So happy! Now, I can write the ad to sell my Mk3. 😃 By the way, the inspector praised its condition. It started with a "Uh... You do get it dirty from time to time, do you 😯?!" I then explained that it had just been deeply cleaned to sell it sale. He replied with a "It's really spotless," accompanied by a respectful approving pout. He continued with "One can see that it's very well maintained because seeing the inside of the rims are in such condition, it's rare 😦..." I admitted to him that I have a set of summer and winter wheels and that every time I swap them, I thoroughly clean the ones I take off before storing them. I've driven less than 50 km since I put the summer wheels back on. He concluded with, "If I could do cars in this condition more often, I'd be happy 🙂. I even hesitated to use the windshield washer, it hurt my heart to get it dirty..." 🤣 Even myself, when I saw the windshield washer, I was... 🫣 😂 Well, not a big deal in the end, because I drove home under a light rain and I expect, I have to give it a quick wash when a buyer wants to see it anyway. Of course, I wasn't unhappy that my efforts were recognized. 😎. Small downside: I've had a random message on the maneuver brake system for a few weeks. It only appears on cold starts. I'm gonna make a VCDS scan to see what it is, but I've already booked an appointment by my local dealer to get this sorted for sale.

Had a trip to Skomer Island (Pembrokeshire) last week. Still going through some 1500 photos, mostly puffins, some in flight like this one coming in to land...

A few recent photos (including the 99% full Moon)................

I added power through adaptor by tapping into ignition-on power fuse 46 (seat warmers?). I checked the polarity of fuse to connect the adaptor correctly. I used 5A fuse for the rvc. For coding it was necessary just on 5F and 10 modules (pdc module and multimedia). Will test later on adding fixed static parking lines by cutting the white rvc wire. Photos: https://ibb.co/album/sCzcGY

Waiting for paint to dry on the mx5 and another car I kept busy doing little things to this. Popped the rear fog lamp lense off and polished it. Pulled the original spare out and put a serviceable one from the parts car in. Did clean it first. Took the oil cap off to clean it up. Just wire wheeled it to death and gave it some metal Polish. Also Tinted the spotlamps. Before pic I had a fair bit of time, you might realise. Got some bare tools organised and set up for it. Gonna pull the dizzy and coil off the parts car to keep in it, maybe ott But I'm not wanting to be stuck on the side of the road soon.

Plenty of options over and above the standard ones, although what is your specific concern? If the brakes don't create enough stopping power, then if you can get the ABS to kick in on a dry road, then the brakes work enough, as the tyres are losing traction. If its a case of fading under heavy braking, then pads can solve some of it, but you may also want to change your brake fluid and/or change the flexible brake pipes for braided versions. It may also be worth to replace the discs for cross-drilled and/or grooved version which will also aid colling for repeated heavier braking. For pads, look at Pagid, Ferodo, VBT (VagBremTechnik) for their products. For discs, look at the above, brands and also MTech also do versions which they add a coating to so the non-contact parts stay black rather than rusting to orange. ATE make ceramic pads which are lower dust so the wheels look cleaner for longer. Is your model a FWD or AWD car?

The EA888 is not a great sounding engine. All you really do is increase the volume of the farting (that's the only honest description) it produces; Centre res should give you what you're looking for, but I would never classify it as a pleasant noise. Unless you like that sort of thing, of course.

So, after a bit more searching I found a price list on the Listers website here: https://listers.co.uk/new/cars/skoda/elroq?f=search:true Looks like: Starting price is £31,500, for a 50 SE, with only 232 miles of range Next up is £33,350 for a 60 SE L with 260 miles of range If Listers are correct they are the only SE and SE L models, which seems odd, but I find Skoda's model naming so unfathomable at times that I'm not saying Listers made a mistake... 60 Edition is £34,450 60 Sportline is £37,400 85 Edition is £38,650 - this is the starting price if you want over 300 miles of range (360 quoted) 85 Sportline is £41,600 Plus packs are £1,950 - only available on Edition so I assume the Sportline trim includes whatever is in there Advanced packs are £4,150 on Edition and £2,250 on Sportline - the difference being £1,900 Maxx packs are £5,100 on Edition and £3,200 on Sportline - difference as above. So those Sportline prices above don't tell the whole story. There are cheaper Elroq prices to be had, although the bigger battery models with a decent range still seem pricey to me. With extras the Listers prices look a few hundred cheaper than the Autotrader one, but not vastly different.

Sounds like you take good care and track everything on your car too. Cracking stuff. I sometimes forget not everyone here lives in the UK. 303k km into miles is only 188k miles. In km mine is now 498005 km. So nearly 500k km for people on the continent