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Have to say the parents are doing an awesome job 👏

At the end of this month I will have had my Yeti 12 years and been following and contributing to this forum all that time learning a lot on the way. For the first couple of years every so often I'd learn something new about the car and its various setting and potential problems. On Wednesday without warning I had a severe shuddering, loss of power and several warning lights came on. Trying the usual thing of stopping and restarting unfortunately didn't resolve the problem (well, what is life without hope?) so 48 hours and nearly £600 later I got the car back from the garage with a new set of leads and plugs; the diagnostics, which threw up a whole load of seemingly unrelated faults associated with the flat battery of two weeks ago, cost more than the actual repair. But everything seems to be working properly again so as it's the first major unforeseen repair in 12 years I'm happy. Noticing the clock was showing the wrong time I went into the MFD to adjust it and took the opportunity to flick through the other setting to see if anything else needed adjustment. And I saw PDC with its sub-menus for front and rear volume adjustment. Now being a bit slow on the uptake these days I assumed "volume" as "space" - as in boot volume - and so wondered what front and rear volume could be and why it would need adjustment? And, after 12 years of ownership I now know that I can adjust the volume of the front and rear parking sensors! So can anyone beat 11 years and 50 weeks before finding something new about their car? (The garage also found slight excess play on the turbo wastegate (whatever that is) so I could be looking at a new turbo in a "two or three years" although hopefully it will last long enough that it will be an easy decision to say at that stage it's not an economic repair).

A few from this evening.............

I tired using Eco Mode on a trip down to Devon. Drove there on Eco Mode, drove back in Normal (well Individual mode as in that I have switched off the stupid 'Soundakor'). MPG was virtually the same the only difference was the far worse engine response in Eco Mode. Haven't bothered with Eco Mode since. Or Sport Mode for that matter.

If the battery is fairly well charged at the start, then something like this should help to keep it happy. Assuming that the weather plays nicely, and your car isn't parked under cover: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/battery-accessories/halfords-20w-solar-maintainer-191251.html

Thanks fo the feedback. Absolutely I inteed to do a test drive...but I didn't really notice the effect on the test drive of the Kodiaq, which may well have been a different spec to the one I bought. (I cannot remember 7 years ago) I just wondered if people who noticed the issue on earlier cars, thought that it still existed, or was resolved. Also sorry for the similar thread in the Superb section.. Considering both cars.

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Cheers. In fairness it probably will. Diagnosed with OCD so this will likely consume my mind in terms of what if/what have they missed for some time. Thats kind of the reason i went with approved dealer as that work is meant yo be carried out for peace of mind. Which is why i said the choice is they accept the rejection or my local dealership does the work and they pay them directly. I will not allow them to fix as i have no trust in them so if they say so its a straight rejection. Given the amount of messing about i honestly dont want them to have my money but then ill have to cough up an extra 4k going elsewhere and to me its Is it worth it on something that depreciates anyway. The audi i test drove before this is still available only thing puts me off is high expense when things go wrong. Im more practical than that and whilst octavia doesnt have some creature comforts it has benefits elsewhere. I havent had a response from exec team as yet but responses havent really happened on wednesdays anyway so will give a call tomorrow to say that plus extra warranty as a minimum to cover any trust issues with it. Before i boarded my flight today the solicitors rang to say they accept the case so theres something in that

Usually if you keep the unlock button on the fob pressed the windows will open (if you have convenience windows enabled) You vehicle may be a bit long in the tooth

@leolito You are not using brakes unless using brakes, tapping the brake pedal to be back in drive is nothing. Not using brakes and rusted discs will cost more for many drivers. As far as what you feel about clutches engaging and disengaging and wear and tear it is good that you think you can avoid this.

Agreed, I was staggered to see a Focus that I ran into the ground when working a long commute, subsequently on a forecourt advertised as having a full service history. I hated the damn thing and hadn't had it serviced for about 30k miles. Basically by including the service book they are providing the vehicles full service history, regardless of whether there's anything in it! Anyway, my two pence worth, I really feel for you and just be assured that this will go away, it will not consume any of your thoughts in a month or two. I think I would be looking to reject the vehicle, but that's easy for me to say, it's not me that has gone through this journey and has to enter an unfamiliar legal process. But if your dialogue with Skoda UK is still open and you're still interested in keeping the vehicle, perhaps suggest that if it is properly brought inline with their approved used checklist (maybe by another dealer) and they can increase the warranty period for some added peace of mind, then you'll give them the chance to do so? All the best, try and enjoy your holiday.

Coasting is great. I use it all the time. On long motorway hills it coasts for until I blip the throttle or brake pedal, whereas on a shorter, shallower one in town it seems to know when to switch off and drop down the gears to slow up.

Thank you that sorted it out, the 7 zip didn't seem to unpack it properly so used the unzip file from my PC which took about 4 hours and worked great.. Last time had to use the 7-Zip Thanks again all

That Fiesta looks like an original Supersport - I always liked them but it was not to be (I ended up with a Chevette...) EDIT: - looks like it could be as its an '82 1298cc according to the DVLA... if it isn't it's a decent copy.

Assume we are talking about a Skoda. Other Vag brands Seat, Audi may hit you with Mapcare but then you should know about this. I know once somebody said you didn't say left hand SD slot. I'd assumed they would use that. You pull out all other SD / USB drives during the process. I'd format the card to exFat certainly. Funny sector size and it won't read the drive correctly. That's a Fat thing and you shouldn't be using NTFS. So I'd reformat the card again. Only present to it the metafile in the root and the two subdirectories. Mib1 and mib2. Needs them both, it's known people have tried to be clever in the past and over think... I'll only give it mib2. No all three of those entities. Nothing else on the drive. Then you kick it off with that update thingy as per the manual. It's true I've installed it on a Seat. I wouldn't have thought they would have left Skoda off the update as they did with Seat a few year back. It's going to be presentation difficulties more likely. The Mac OS where you need to use CleanMyDrive to dust off the garbage that Macs leave which mess up the checksums. Try another SD card, will fit on 16gb now or USB. In the past people have said download again although the unzipping process via 7zip should be sufficient to identify any bad data connections that would have messed up the download. Fingers crossed. My method of working is download. It's in the download directory Make a directory where it's going to be unzipped to on the HD Open up the download file with 7zip then just drag and drop all of it to the unzipped directory Then copy the unzipped material to the blank SD card.

Crossover car - This often happens as a car gets close to facelift time. Rather than order smaller quantities of older components (at higher cost) to finish the pre-facelift run, they start using some of the new pieces to plug the supply chain gaps.

@RCC49 if you, and others, don't want to you don't need to spend £79 on an appropriate charger maintainer and personally a mate has two of those and whilst they're fine I'm with Shania (Twain) they don't impress me much especially for the money as the two identical units he has work show slightly (ETA: missing word) different (perhaps one is a one-off). For £15 the ones at Lidl/Aldi are fine lots of people use them successfully, my neighbour has had one for a number of years now. For £30 (or less, depends where you buy) you can get the Ring 4-amp, I prefer the 4-amp to 6-amp, just takes a little longer for more versatility of use, been using it on my wife's 2015 Fabia (and neighbour's cars) for a few years now. Ring Smartcharger 4 - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html For those that want or prefer 6-amps - Ring Smartcharger 6 - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc906-6a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Other makes and suppliers are of course available and if you prefer the reassurance of higher price cost that's fair enough, I still have a cheap (not "smart") charger from the 1980s that still works well and a semi-smartish medium price charger from the 1990s that still works well. I very much doubt I need worry about if my Ring 4-amp "smart" (they're not) charger is still going in about 30 years time, but be nice if it was, what the 12v battery would be used on I'm not sure (house lights perhaps).

Think of another component like manual gearbox oil, a fuel pump, or a petrol fuel filter and you'll find the same absence from any service schedule. They've just taken it a step further and washed their hands of advising on cambelts on these petrol models in some markets.

First check the fuse. Then, remove switch & check voltage to switch. Turn on & check voltage out. If you don't have voltage out, replace switch. If all seems ok, then check voltage to the heated screen. Obviously with the ignition on.

Latest update from skoda: "We have now received feedback from the team. They have confirmed that your vehicle is currently communicating correctly with our backend systems. However, we would like to clarify that Octopus Intelligent and the Hypervolt Home Pro 3 are third-party charging solutions that are not officially supported or validated by Škoda Auto. As such, we cannot guarantee full compatibility with the Škoda Elroq’s internal charging system. Additionally, we regret to inform you that we are not authorized to provide internal diagnostic data directly to customers. For optimal charging performance, we recommend using official Škoda solutions, such as the in-vehicle charging scheduler or the MyŠkoda app." Looks like I'll need to just schedule charging without the Octopus intelligent benefits for now, but when my lease is up I'll be looking for a vehicle that is compatible with my charger and electricity provider.

Dont know about the Karoq but often the 12v sockets have a 'delay' whereby they are only live for a period after the ignition is off. In that case there must be some electronics in the circuit.

Hi Breezy_Pete, Many thanks for this and circuit screen grab. Away just now but I think this should enable me now to trace, test and fix. Thanks again

It's not that the parts are being made better it's that Skoda UK were out of step with the rest of the VAG empire when they were saying 5 years. It seems they were forced to get back in line when the cambelt replacement costs on the ACT versions were so much higher than the non-ACT versions.

That ring charger is the same as what i have ,its a good bit of kit .

Predictably, in partslink24, your VIN suggests rear spring part number 3Q0 511 115 AJ as quoted by other look-ups. The relevant PR-code is 0YC, which is confirmed in your build sheet "Weight range 3". The other PR code related to rear suspension is 1JP, but I think that's for the shocks.

Ok thanks for advice. No he just did an oil and oil filter change. He bought the oil and filter from eBay to for me and I gave him the money. Thanks

Risk mitigation:

The DSG can seem to be a bit dim at times, however it's just trying to guess what you want from it. It's possible to wrong-foot the DSG inadvertantly, when it thinks you're planning to sit where you are for a while, but actually you want to set off, and you give a throttle demand that the DSG doesn't quickly respond to, then the revs rise, the DSG seems to dump the clutch and "Yoink!" off you go with an uncomfortable lurch. I have found I need to think slightly further ahead, release the brake, feel the clutch engage, and then hoof it. However as I always put my DSG in neutral when I come to a halt, my putting the car in gear from neutral lets it know what I'm up to. Sometimes, I switch from neutral to drive and back to neutral again, if the gap to enter traffic isn't quite right and I need to skip a car or I'm having a senior moment, and that will usually confuse the DSG and I get a lurchy getaway as a reward.

Just go to the dealer and drive a demo car. How somebody could objectively review the response in relation to your particular needs and feeling? All VAG cars since WLTP has more or less lagged throttle pedal response and DSG software focused on low emissions and lowest fuel range possible. For some its ok to daily drive it in D, some need S mode and others doesn't touch DSG or tune the gearbox software in external workshops.

I offered to help with this but you posted something almost at the same moment, and maybe didn't see? Just message me with the VIN.

If you try to use the SSD will probably see it as a massive drive and get confused. The manual will say 32gb or 64gb. Not 1tb. The units whilst they might give the idea that you are using a PC, they are emulating these file systems with constraints and they certainly don't like to see anything else on the presented drive other that what it's going to work with or big drives.

Doing really well

A weird looking one IMO.

New front pads today. Turns out there is no brand on euro car parts that doesn't produce a **** special version to sell on there, so all of them squeal like train brakes, eat the discs and fade after 3 roundabouts around milton keynes. Things to note: Despite not being listed as compatible, ebc redstuff dp32150c fit just fine (32127 for 280ps). Mine didn't come with new screws and wear sensor so be aware. They're £88 on ebay. Rear pads need a bloody 7mm allen key. It's not part of any kit whatsoever. Halfords sell one. Front pads need a 17mm, ideally thin spanner to hold against the pin while unscrewing with a 13mm socket or i assume a t40 torx bit. **** pads leave a lot of caked dust that just layers on top of itself. Gotta keep poking until it's shiny. The brake wear sensor seems to be universal fit between pads, but it's skoda/vw specific on the connector side

Are your wheels even suitable for run flat tyres? The code can be on the back or the wheel. ( EH2 ) Thanks. AG Falco

Do they? Not the quietest tyres in my experience, though much quieter than stock Goodyears. But Octavia in general isn't great for tyre noise whatever tyres you install. I prefer a bit more noise but excellent performance, rather than chasing that 1dB to cut and getting some crap result overall.

My 2018 1.6 TDI Octavia now has 194000 kilometers. The sound has been there since I bought it with 160k kilometers. I feel like it has gotten louder recently. I also think it takes longer to disappear when the engine warms up. I can even hear it when warm if I listen it closely. When I pump the brake pedal, the noise changes and it is audible even with hot engine. Is it normal to hear it even when the engine is warm and oil temperature is above 80C? I change oil every 10k kilometers and just two days ago replaced oil with Mannol 7715 5W30. Oil changes don't seem to affect the noise at all.

I like the cloak of invisibility with this. It would have cars slowing down I expect as arrive from behind.

If you don't have Care Connect, and I've never paid £36 for it in the two years I've subscribed to it (1-Month free then paid something like £22 for first year on offer then resubscribed when it was on offer again after about 6 months and paid £20 for this current second year which only started this month), then you can ask your local dealership service desk to print out the service history and i've never been charged for that by any car dealership be it VAG or non-VAG.

I use E5 all the time in my 280 but a tankful in the Karoq 1.5 made no difference apart from costing me £4 more…! 🙂

This kind of confusion easily happens. Key thing is keep it simple, only set one thing. But once problem is understood, it should be very reliable. To be clear, I'm not immune to charge point problems, my regular Indra unit also had problem not charging the car. Charge point connector had connection issues probably due to me stretching the cable to reach Leaf to do cell balancing. It was promptly replaced under warranty. But during problematic times, if I know I must put energy into the car for the next day, I'd revert to granny charger. My point is that the charging location (home) is 100% reliable, there are many things can be done to manage known failures when at home. So arriving 0% is no problem.

Agreed, but since the digital info isn't free (and presumably unlikely to become so), the piece of paper at each service is my solution. Might as well have kept the service books!

but too bad that you dont have a menu button

One does wonder who actually designs some of these chronic wheels. What happened to easy clean 5 spoke wheels. And none of the low profile rubbish - design over substance!

If you are doing it for evidence to present to the supplying dealer, then it would be very easy for them to dismiss it as it isn't their or a Skoda trained technician's view. So not going to help much. Ultimately you have a 30 day / 1000 mile exchange. If it's condition and your concerns means you won't ever bond with this car, get it changed for one you can.

NO! Thanks. AG Falco

Points I can help with...... Not sure about the dust on the car issue..... Without seeing the amount of dust it's hard to say but with the recent dry weather with the odd shower of rain and southerly winds from the North African coast it is quite possible a newly cleaned car can be covered in a layer of dust after only a couple of days. (I speak from experience from this last few weeks when my own car has had a layer of dust on it within two days of having spent a full day cleaning it). Service history can be pulled and printed out for you by the dealership's service dept..... You can also get it once the car has been linked to you as the owner via the MySkoda app using the Digital Certificate option. (This also gives warranty work carried out). The Approved Used scheme includes software updates to be carried out before collection of the vehicle so the car should have been updated to version 1985 which was released last December time before you collected it. For me this is a must have as the amount of bugs prior to version 1941 is huge.

I have found over the past 3 summers that air-con cooling uses far less power than heating the cabin. It is rare to see power use for aircon above 0.7kW for sustained periods and normally less than 0.5kW. Air-con power consumption does go higher when cooling a hot cabin, but that can be mitigated by opening the windows until the cabin cools. Whereas heating the cabin can start at a power draw in excess of 5kW on very cold days and often remains in 2-2.5kW region maintaining temperature. Heating an uninsulated metal box is really a fool's game and the heat just leaks out.

The glass slots into a couple of slot/clamps at base and is held in on mine with two bolts. It may have slipped out of them or the cable mechanism has failed. Happened to me when window was frozen and glass stayed put but mechanism went down. The garage should be able to tell once the door card is off. There are holes in the door to access the clamps behind the door card. If its the cables etc then the door would have to be dismantled. They wont need to remove door either way. Alasdair

God, what next, we are losing the ability to do stuff ourselves and use our own brains. lights are way to bright now, and I really hate people with front fog lights on when it's not foggy. It's actually illegal and classed as misuse of lights, fine and 3 points if your unlucky. Rear number plate lights being changed to led. They are too bright and don't light up the plate. They just reflect white light off the plate or body paint. That again can be an MOT failure for white light on the rear of your car. Some cars the lights on the front and back can be so bright you can't see the indicator straight away. I've been driving 30 years and never needed fog lights coming on to go round a corner. What a load of sales gimmickry. What is this world coming to. Sorry ... Rant over.... 😕