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Last night's sunset 😎

Up in the highlands now being a tourist for a few days. More camera phone snaps

There probably isn't one. You'll just have to disconnect one of the lowest points in the hose system.

Yes, the range goes up because you're now travelling at a more or less constant speed, & so achieving a higher MPG than when you were sat in London traffic. The system can't see into the future, so can only provide an estimate based on the recent data it has.

Hi everyone, new owner and new member here. The car came with four 'Churchill' tyres so a priority is to get some decent rubber on. In the past we've run summer & winter tyres on the main family car but not wanting to tie up £1200 in rubber I've decided to try All Seasons. Having over-researched, as is my nature, and watched the excellent TyreReviews video a couple of times I had resolved to get the new Pirellis. However, KwikFit currently have 20% off 4 Continentals and as the Contis came a very close second to the Pirellis the lure of saving £100 proved to much! I'll report back when they've been fitted and I have a chance to try them.

Yep, though most people have a rather false picture of how much oil is elsewhere other than the sump when the engine is running. Very little, since all the passages that it goes through on the way up the engine are very narrow, and the drains from the top of the engine very large. Compare level readings at different engine temperatures to see the amount of variability in dipstick reading.

Took me a little while to decide on an MOT centre that would look after me and I can happily say look after me they have. After a whopping 7 years and 6 months since it's last MOT, We're back!

. Cost to charge, off peak, home work maybe 7 pence a kWh or even less. 6.2 pence. Public Charging , Ultra Rapid maybe 60 pence to 90 pence. Loads of money. More than running a diesel if it is just fuel cost. But if the EV is much more efficient and get near 6 miles to a kWh then things get better / less expensive.. 500 miles divided by 85 kWh is 5.8 miles a kWh. Lovely if that is what the minimum efficiency was, loaded, cold weather etc. Long range so longer time between charges is not worth that much if the car is not comfortable for hours of non stop driving. IMO. So 473 miles.... Now we are at 5.56 miles a kWh, WLTP. Not real world. I would have one just on looks. But it would need to be comfy for 3 hours without getting out, then comfy for another 3 after an hour or so of a break. 150 miles then another 150 miles. That is a 7 hour trip.

Don't panic 500mm after a 200 mile trip is not that bad for the age of the car, it can some times just be the oil scraper rings a bit clogged or stuck and allowing some oil to burn off have some one rev the car and take a look at the rear of the exhaust any blueish smoke will show you that you might have a problem, the most common cause are the valve stem oil seals but you can also check these by running the car on idle for 10 -_15 mins then get some one to rev the engine to around 2_3000 RPM like a quick blip on the throttle while looking at the rear exhaust if you get a puff of blue smoke and then it clears that points to worn oil seals on the valve stems, , you can also check if the engine is pressuring up by taking the oil cap off while it's running and if you get whiteish smoke rising up you might have a blocked breather or as said worn rings allowing pressure to enter the engine block but again this normaly leads to oil leaks from different places , last resort is a compression test on the cylinders if they are all even then it might be a worn set of rings but normally anything around 160 -170 psi is ok not an expert but it's things like this I learned from many years working on different carsI have even seen people use an oil additive to stop excessive oil consumption it's a persona; choice that's up to you

A quick camera phone shot of Arran. Flying visit to view another dump.

Will do mate, hopefully it can help someone else. I'll post results here. Thanks for the help.

Yeap always a gamble with information from any source (bloke on internet or down the pub) including manufacturers, as all sources and databases have errors and omissions. It's too dark and too much hassle for me to try to pop the centre cap out with the wheel on the car but if yours are already damaged then tomorrow you could pop one out to measure the hole (good luck with the .1 mm) or look for VW part number. Let us know how you get on and it might confirm that size too, good luck.

Thank you, a very useful website! I'm going to take a gamble and go by this as it gives other measurents which I know matches up to the rest of the wheel.

It might depend on what wheels you have and if they're factory original. The ones on my wife's car are plastic, black with silver Škoda emblem and edge ban. If you take one of yours out you can measure it and/or on the back there might be a VW part number to look up from and get comparisons for. Or have a look here, 15" seem to be 57.1 mm hole - "Center Bore / Hub Bore: 57.1 mm" - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/fabia/2015/

Maybe use a plastic trim removal tool with a soft cloth undereath it before using a heatgun to melt the backing adhesive from the emblem. Something like these ......

Hi Mellowmike. If it makes you feel any better you aren't the first one caught out. It happened to me a few years back - frightened me to death the noise it made. But a hint I picked up on this forum sorted it for me - to drive backwards quickly which, if the gods are smiling on you, will dislodge the little blighter and all will be well. Glad it was nothing more serious.

Absolutely, I don't grasp how this causes so much confusion 🙄

The little straps? That’s the holder for a warning triangle. I bought one on Amazon for £5. Doubt I’ll ever use it, but the kind of thing that might save the car if you break down on a bend or somerhing.

You might be better looking and/or asking in the relevant Superb forum(s) on this site (also, do bear in some people aren't as good as measuring as others ETA: I don't mean tavs, and I've no idea, he might work to laboratory standards for all I know ). - Škoda Superb forums - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/171-%C5%A1koda-superb/ HTH.

I'm in a similar position. The dealer told me that after applying 1941 the car would then be able to receive and automatically update to the later infotainment versions, so 1969 and 1985. However, it hasn't happened for me. Online map updates and minor application updates are downloading and applying. Most recently the 25.5 map update downloaded. So, my assumption is that earlier infotainment systems don't have enough local storage to download, extract and apply a large infotainment update. Or that something on the Skoda side is not allowing it for my vehicle. Mine is an early 2021 First Edition model, and I think most of us on this forum with similar age vehicles have not received OTA updates for infotainment system after getting 1941 applied by the dealer (or at home via other means). I think there may be a couple of forum members on here with early cars that have received the update OTA. But I'm not sure if those owners had hardware replaced previously. When the software issues cropping Skoda replaced parts on quite a few cars before getting on top of the software, and applying updates instead of replacing components. Personally I'm not too bothered as 1941 has been solid and there's no bugs I'm experiencing with it. I do know there's issues in 1985 with regards to music track details not updating in the virtual cockpit when you change track.

@Sammy-8989 - if it's a 2011 Superb as per your profile, it'll depend what BCM you have as it's around then that LED support was added. If the BCM is too old, no amount of coding will help. Unfortunately, VCDS isn't going to help you. It'll be a job for ODIS-e or VCP to directly access the lighting config section of the BCM EEPROM. Somewhat more advanced than most folk are capable of...

Look Here: https://wiki-online.vcds.de/de/Codierungen/MQB/Licht/US-Standlicht

Warning. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/513601-warning-bosch-oil-filter-for-1.2-tsi-ea111-cbzacbzb

I believe the oil filters on the 1.2 TSI EA111 retain their fullness when engine isn't running. There's a valve that opens as you unscrew them to replace, releasing the oil inside into the housing; but before that they are full. Wouldn't be a sensible design if they had to be re-filled at each start-up, especially as the tensioner is hydraulic.

It is as simple as that. See where the oil is cold in the sump. Pre engine fired up. All drained down. That level in a 1.2 TSI might well be higher up the dipstick that after 10 miles of driving, oil up to 90*oC or so, stopped a few minutes. (A few is a few, 4 or 5.) Oil Filter up top of engine. Different filters 2010-2011, 2011 on. Different Oil Capacity as well. As long as enough in, and as long as not overfilled.

It was on an Audi, as I already mentioned, and they were happy to do all the work the maintenance schedule dictated. I took out a 2 year plan when the car was 3 years old and another when it was 5 years old. All plans were administrated by VW finance. Can't recall the exact costs but less than £40 per month. Plan included all servicing and breakdown cover, including repairs as a result of the breakdown. Only caveat was - diagnostics which did not show a fault, had to be paid for. It would seem, from your Google AI post that this may no longer be the case but, as with all things in life, best to ask what's included before committing. I personally found the plan to be good value but that's just my opinion.

Very detailed look from autogufuhl... I like the shooting brake, but I have VW means but Mercedes taste!

Refuelling, TC-6 is zeroing and the trip begins, Odometer indication is 95301 Km (324,8 in the Trip meter), at the first stop: Now the Odometer indication is 95375 Km (74,8 in the Trip meter), the distance was 74 Km in Highway and the Total consumption is 4.4 litres which is Average 5.94 ltr/Km or 47.56 British MPG. The Ø indication on the TC-6 agrees. Keep in mind that the car had: 2 persons, 2 valises, 3 sport bags and a full fuel tank so with that weight i find the Fuel Consumption that hot summer day as Very Good. The next measurement is after a Mountain Route (lot of curbs in an uphill and then downhill) till final destination at noon.

I've never done anything like this before. Using the plastic separator handles, it came out easily when I lifted it from one end. You can do it too.

@Ootohere apologies, I should have said that I added oil in volumes of 500ml untill the marker reached as indicated in the owners manual. I believe total volume added was around 1l , including some spillage.

On the topic of using the correct tool kit, I'd not think that it will be worthwhile to start this job before you have this Gen2 kit for 72mm bearings.

My Skoda ones are consistent too on long journeys, although as I would expect mileage left varies depending on how you're driving, petrol is consumed more quickly if you're travelling at 80 rather than 50, in France that is so not speeding 😃. It's a bit like the GPS I use when walking, my time to destination varies depending on how fast I'm walking.

Hi There, A little late to the conversation, but had Conti AllSeason Contact 2 fitted to my Cupra Leon 300 4WD Estate and was really pleased with them. They weren't as precise as the Conti Sport 6(?) fitted to the car when I bought it, but that's a different type of tyre... All I can say is that they felt safe, sure-footed in the cold and wet, quiet and wore really well - 20k miles in 12 months and they'd only worn down to about 6mm, but most of the car's time was spent on the motorway. Have had CrossClimate 2 and Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons Gen 3 to an Arteon Shooting Brake PHEV and the Goodyears worked really well on that. The factory fitted summer Pirelli-Whatevers were dangerous in the wet (on that car) and the lease company didn't argue in swapping them to CC2 with only a couple of thousand miles on them... Would like to try the Pirelli SF3 or CC3 on the Superb I've just bought...it has some Runway ditch finders on it at the moment, 3 of which look new. I never scrimp on tyres but thought these were OK in the recent hot dry weather, until I drove up to Scotland a couple of days ago, hit some standing water on the motorway and had a very squeaky bum moment...as soon as budget allows, those are going in the bin, definitely before autumn sets in! Out of all the tyres suggested so far, you won't go wrong.

Hi There, New owner of a 2018 SE L Exec and my mirrors were going crazy; not folding, switched to right would control left mirror (but only in some directions, sometimes) and reverse dip not working. The car is booked in with the main dealer I bought it from, however after finding and clearing around 15 faults with OBDEleven, the mirrors have been working perfectly for a few days. I'll not cancel the service appointment until next week, as I want to make sure everything's OK for a little while, but so far, I guess clearing the faults has made the car happy again - I ran another scan a couple of days after and only a couple of unrelated faults popped up! Hope that helps. Cheers, Nick

Actually......... Forget that comment. I've just tried it for a second time and it seems to have reset and is now working fine. Thanks for your help. 😃

The Fabia cost £340 inc parts and VAT done once so far, my 2.0 diesel cost around £600 inc parts and VAT done 3 times (every 36K). Not had the Karoq long enough to need it doing yet, there seem to be suggestions that the 2.0 TSI has a chain rather than a belt I suppose 'small price' is a relative - it might be argued that the £1800 I spent on cambelt replacements goes some way to paying for the repairs if the cambelts were never changed.

Yes it sounds like the bearing is starting to go but make sure your disc and caliper is free as I once had an issue with sticky slide pins and this was causing the noise but in fairnes you will normaly see the pad wear on that side different from inner and outer pad, if you do this job your self you will need a puller set for this model plus of course the new bearing/hub don't buy the cheap ones they don't last, get FAG or SKF hub bearings are a bit more expensive but woth the extra in the long run, make sure the hub has 45 the ABS ring attactched as some hubs don't have them as they are for different year models without ABS but the hub will fit this model it's always best to remove the ABS pick up before removing and then put it back after the new hub is fitted again you will need the kit to do re fit the bearing hub NOT taking the Senor out will result in damage to the sensor I have always fitted a pair of hubs as you might replace the one side but the other side won't be far away, it was a lot cheaper buying the kit from ebay buying the hub and doing the job myself as a garage price was around £350 Just to add always replace the drive shaft locking nurt when refitting, there's a vidieo on you tube that you can watch how to do the job if you are interested and also shows you how to use the kit

Well I've had that on a 2000 VW Passat 4Motion - it has a heavy front end, when it was maybe 8 years old and so maybe 60,000 miles, then, we've had that on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS - which probably has a heavy-ish front end, when it was only 7 or 8 years old (forgotten) and so roughly 35,000 miles - that Polo's (French made) front off side wheel bearing look like it had suffered from water ingress which had made it noisy. Initially, in the November, I only noticed it when the winter tyres were on and only when driving in a certain area, plan "A" was, "it is just that road surface combined with the winter tyres, then it changed to appearing while driving in all areas, waited until I changed back to summer tyres - it was still there, so time to buy a cheap "made in China" Gen2 wheel bearing tool and 2 F-A-G bearings. I just replaced both sides as typically when something goes on one side the other one is getting the same way, which was probably wrong in my case. I was unable to tie it down to one side anyway, so replacing both seemed like a smart plan - and that worked for me, that car is now at almost 10 years 55,000 miles and still okay. If you are replacing these bearings yourself, you might end up trashing an ABS sensor or two, I only trashed the second side's one! I'd describe the noise in both cars as a "wha wha wha" a lot like old army trucks sound like with their all surface tyres, the VW Polo noise initially was only around 55>65MPH but as time went on, it appeared earlier and stayed for most of the road speed range in normal driving. I wouldn't expect that you will be able to detect any "slackness" in the affected wheel(s), so don't let that have you looking elsewhere.

Does your expansion tank have a Silica bag in it? ( It should be stamped on the tank 'Mit Silikat'). These have a habit of spilling their contents into the coolant system and blocking the matrices which may be a possible cause of the overheating.

That doesn't make sense....the coolant flowed into the tank but went out the hole in the bottom.... Do you mean it came out the cap? What did the mechanic say about the coolant levels?? Does your heater still get hot? If so, then he hasn't bypassed that. Not really understanding why you think he bypassed something but won't admit it. Test the heater I guess. That will confirm. As for the low coolant, I'd be asking the guy why it's so low. Maybe it is just a bit of trapped air comming out. Is it still low now? What happens if you opened the cap now.

A quick review of my new 2.0 TDI 150 HP L&K estate (currently at only ~2500 km): PROS: very nice to drive, you don't have the feeling of its size while dealing with curves or hills, it stays and responds nicely even on higher speeds still learning to get fully familiar with DSG reactions, but most of the time it reacts very nicely, holds the speed while driving downhill etc I would say the TDI 110kW/150 HP is just enough for a regular driver, even when driving on highways (under the speed limits) as a driver that first time experiences matrix lights- they are really amazing. I am still manually turning them off in some tricky situations when auto-dimming could fail and blind the car in the front seamless Android auto experience, it connects automatically when you turn on the car (OK, you need to have you Bluetooth turned on) and everything is here in case you want to have your music downloaded locally, on the type C USB- it works as well canton sound system is, from my perspective quite good, it of course requires the initial setup (as many other things in the car), but once set, it is more than fine fuel consumption is great (TDI 110kW)- around 4.5L (~52 mpg) on a highway if you are under the speed limits DCC works nicely, there are no clicking DCC sounds in my case, was little dizzy on my first trip to the village, on a very curvy road, but the normal/sport mode solves that, or I just got used to it CONS: although the AC works perfectly, the seat ventilation is really weak, really, just enough so that you can say it exist, it has the ventilator on the bottom of the seat that, I would say, uses only the cabin air to cool, and is not connected with the AC. It means that during the very hot summer days, you would need to slightly delay the seat ventilation until the cabin air cools down enough too many clicks needed once you turn on the car- I assume it is regulated by the EU law so that a car can't remember emergency assist configuration. Despite that, I really think it should NOT be the case for e.g. a driving mode, the car should be allowed to remember the last driving mode you used... had a uncomfortable experience when my friend didn't close the rear door completely- the car complained with the "open door image" on a cockpit screen only, but there were no sound alerts at all. The car allows me to drive ~200 meters without complaining. Once I realized the image on the screen, I had to stop on the road, he closed the door and nothing bad happened. If you ask me, there MUST be a very loud sound alert or even a system that prevents car from achieving higher speed if not all doors are closed. I would like to have the emergency parking braking somewhere in the top bar shortcuts, the same as auto hold option- while parking in a tall grass, the car will probably use the emergency brake and scare you to death (at least the first time). Once you realize that basically nothing bad happened, you will then need some time to go into the parking settings- locate the config section, find the option to disable it etc. If you have another traffic/car waiting for you to move while doing it, it can be very stressful. This option must be somewhere quickly accessible. OTHER: you have to learn how to use and drive the car, really :) an example, just spent a frustrating 20 minutes of debugging the "nasty issue of the car", it emergency brakes after ~2 meters of driving, every time I tried to move it, without any parking sensor warning, sound alert, message or anything. It was obviously a problem in me, I didn't use my seat belt because I just wanted to move a car ~10 meters down the yard. If there was some warning message that informed me about the emergency braking due to not used seat belt, I would be immediately informed and not spending my time on debugging everything else :D

Latch has failed and needs replacing. Awaiting authorisation from the Skoda warranty people then they will order the parts.

Yeah, that's what I have been doing. Since doing so, I haven't noticed the problem. However, I bought the car 3 months ago. In my view, this is quite a major fault, so I'm taking it back to them to hopefully find a resolution.

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Some Pictures

I got mine from Kopacek: https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/octavia-iv/mud-flaps/ I found with the front wheels on full lock I didn't need a right angle adapter, but it would certainly have made it a bit easier! Overall, pretty quick and easy to fit and definitely reduces the road spray/crap on the car.

When I went to my dealer for the job, I paid for stalk + coding altogether. Unfortunately, they fitted a faulty stalk which made my high beams not work, but they refused to accept this and put it down to incompatibility. I fitted my own stalk and everything worked fine, they refunded me and apologised that my “vehicle isn’t compatible”. As long as your BCM supports CC, you could order a new product yourself for them to fit. Part Number I used was 5E0 054 800

Hi. I now tray retrofit my octavia 4 on screen 13". In unit MIB3 OI - 5e3035816 have diferent resolution on the screnn. for 13" must by change unit to MIB3GP 5h7035816. Only this unit have SFD2 protection. on foto 13" conecting to MIB3 OI

2011 Superb, 4x4 haldex 4, DSG DQ 250 gearbox MTZ, engine CFFB. Rear diff oil: Manufacturers specs are G052 145 (75W-85 API GL-5). BUT, this oil is primarily choosed by VAG since it gives a bit better mpg due to is viscosity (thinner). For endurance, I use G052 911 (wich is 75W-90 API GL-5). It is marginally thicker, but gives more lubrication. Tools needed: 5mm HEX pipe ratchet bucket some kind of oil pump etc. Get the car up, should e level when raised. Identify the fill and drain plug on you axle. Beware, do not mix up the haldex fill and drain plug. I would say that it is not easily mixed up, but have heard about some garages that actually drained the haldex oil instead... Undo the fill plug with hex key before you undo the drain plug. It should drain approx 0,8-0,9 ltr of axle oil. Torque the drain plug to 15NM. Manual says to replace it, but I didn`t replace it, it worked fine. Use a pump with a 6mm hose to fill through the fill hole until it drips out in a steady flow. Close and torque to 15NM. Job done. Picture layout: Drain plug haldex oil (do NOT loosen) Fill plug haldex oil (do NOT loosen) Drain plug axle oil rear differential (5mm hex) Fill plug axle oil rear differential (5mm hex)

Water pump sleeve sticking.