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Hello, may I suggest to moderators that this topic should be set as a sticky to serve as a warning to anyone being sold a vehicle with only one key supplied? - especially one with keyless ignition or full Kessy. Maybe make it a deal breaker if only one key available?

If my shock absorbers were to have been replaced at the MOT, I'd decided I wouldn't go for the standard Skoda Item as I'd come across Koni Special-Active ones which feature frequency dependent damping, higher frequencies (sharp ridges etc.) being softer than at lower frequencies (more undulating surfaces) + one or 2 other refinements. This would seem likely to at least partially answer the Karoq low speed ride criticisms that quite a few people have commented on. I discussed this with the MOT people and they think I'd be mad to even think of replacing the existing units - nothing wrong with them they said & will last years, but in spite of this, I'm now seriously thinking of getting a set of these Konis delivered, for fitting a little while before the next MOT. I'm hoping they will be a halfway house towards proper DCC. Of course DCC does more, allowing you to adjust the degree of damping and thus the overall ride softness, but also anticipating the bumps before they happen and adjusting short duration damping accordingly. I'll let you know later if the Konis work as hoped, or on the other hand, they turn out to be a somewhat pricey failed experiment.

To me it is temperature related. Thanks. AG Falco

We have a big red fire engine

Hello, Try this link https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/522574-update-to-version-1969/#findComment-5842221 Same procedure as on the video :

@Ootohere @Graham Butcher I've used unmanned pay at pump dynojuice pumps with 100% reliability and success.

@PeteJManchester can I confirm, are we talking about the Haldex AWD or the Haldex VAQ (front diff)? As @Ootohere can confirm, the Haldex needs the oil changed and filter cleaned every 20,000 miles or 2 years - it's not just about the mileage or use. If you're expected to do all the maintenance, then the diff is something that needs to be done. IIRC it's about £160ish to get fresh oil and the pump screen cleaned.

Glad the Karoq is growing on you. I think your right the tech creates a temporary barrier or hurdle to being able to just get in and drive! As a volunteer driver for various organisations I drive a number of different vehicles; cars, vans and minibuses, manual, auto and EV. It’s always the tech that requires delving into the manuals.

Ah, well I've concluded that I'm also going back a bit! But the karoq is seriously growing in me. I should probably not be so impatient, especially when taking a modern car with so much technology to get used to...

This is an interesting take on the problem. Some thoughts. Read the small print on your insurance policy. For example if a dealer sold a car with the security system disabled would the car be 'fit for purpose'? Would it be insurable? Leaving a spare key unaccounted for by the previous owner must be similar. Is this a ground for rejecting the car? The minimum the dealer should do is disable the lost key. If they can't then consider taking the supplying dealer to the Small Claims Court to recover the cost of a replacement key which, if what I have read here is correct, is needed in order to disable the 'lost' key. Remember the dealer made a commercial decision to buy, or take in part exchange, a car with only one key. It's their problem. Lastly contact "Honest John" the Daily Telegraph motoring page, they give consumer advice on motoring subjects. This looks right up their street. tom

I don't have Skoda roof racks, but I use Pro-rack and it's clamps have a thick clear plastic film on the side that faces/contacts the roof. Similar to that clear film between the rear door sill and the rear wheel arch. So no chance of scratching when the clamps r fully tightened down.

After a quite some hours, a fair few quid and a few different attempts at getting rid of the previous owner's smoking habit, I dropped an Airvidox chlorine bomb in the car for the best part of 8 hours on Sunday...the results are good so far. I've already used a mix of Autoglym high foam shampoo, Auto Finesse Total interior cleaner, an Autoglym air con sanitiser, new pollen filter, Dr Leather wipes, and the smell kept on returning, especially on hot days, and especially from the steering wheel and passenger soft trim/pleather between the window and handle when the sun hits it...it's grim...I even unbolted the front seats and vacuumed quite a lot of debris from the hard-to-reach places...The irony is that the interior is pretty much immaculate, apart from the smell, and one small burn/melt on the USB port, which I'll replace at some point. So far, the interior smells fresh and the chlorine smell is gradually going (which I'm happy for it to stay as it doesn't smell of fags!), The steering wheel still has a faint whiff of smoke, but nowhere as bad as it was, so I may leave it a few weeks and do the treatment again. I spent the time pre-cleaning with Airvidox' own interior cleaner (a solution you mix into a bucket of water), and even after I thought I'd cleaned the interior to 'as new' previously, the water had gone from golden to a grim brown once I'd finished, so it obviously picked up even more grime the other cleaners hadn't. So far it's done a lot more than the other cleaners I've used, and cost a lot less...I don't think it's completely eradicated the problem yet, so if required, I'll give it another go a in a few weeks...for around £20, it's certainly been a lot cheaper than the other options I've tried, which in all fairness only clean what you can reach and touch, whereas the gas gets in everywhere, the same as cigarette smoke. Hope that helps any other owners of cars which have been smoked in! Cheers, Nick

Hi. I believe so. I spoke.to.the dealership who said my model is AWD.

Welcome, I think the operative phrase here is 'Could use xx litres in xx distance' It almost certainly will not use that much - and in any case it would not be a significant cost when compared to fuel used in that distance. It is not reasonable to expect an engine to consume no lube oil at all - there was a time when a very high quality vehicle manufacturer considered an engine to be faulty and recalled it for rectification if it did not consume a certain measured quantity of oil.

Interestingly, the storage box on the dashboard is missing in my 74 reg 1.5 SE-L. I also have SKODA written across the steering wheel rather than the badge, so I guess my car was just on the cusp of some of the recent small design changes. PS: prompted by looking at your comprehensive initial post: I haven't been able to establish what my infotainment online lifespan entitlement is yet - I'm sort of hoping it will be 3 years as I really do like to have updated maps and live traffic in particular. Also - I'd have thought that the connect functions for service etc would have been a lifetime thing. How else do we access records or change dealerships for service and so on? Perhaps some of the functionality is always there (?) I will have to ask my local dealer how I access these things if they do expire at some point. I suspect (hope) that some kind soul will advise/correct me on here. Please bear with me folks - I will get there eventually....!

That's more like it - almost 2.5", 60mm narrower than the Karoq and even narrower & shorter than the Kamiq. Regarding NigelL's comments, 'Which' did say as well as views to side & back, the view out the front wasn't ideal due to the bonnet shape & difficulty in judging extremes. They also agreed with you about the Karoq interior, saying that perhaps it being slightly dated was no bad thing, with easy to use controls, more knobs and less i-pad like. Regarding the Karoq ride comments, they did say that DCC overcame their criticisms (low speed sharp edge bumps in particular). Renault SUVs seem to have lost their way a bit. 'Which' seemed to mark down the latest ones for ride quality.

Nice! My Graphite Grey 2.0 TSI Sportline also came from Marshall. I also looked at the VRS, but no discount possible; however, I got £7k off the Sportline with 3 packs and free mudflaps.

18XX after tust, 1969 then 1985

From 17XX not direkt 1985

Manuel Update

Geez, this driver was extremely unlucky, but just goes to show how much of a risk you take being one of the first few owners of these new cars being imported into the UK.

@Graham Butcher Luckily @ Stirling Park & Ride for those prepared to pay 20 pence a kWh more to get a charge there is the Shell Filling station or the Osprey Chargers & the Marston Hotel & Eatery. Good for those where money does not matter, or the employer is paying. £8.50 for maybe 45 miles worth of electricity.

You may find that there are a couple of plastic fasteners attached to the carpet flaps at the back of the mat (where it meets the rear seats). These just pop out - it is unusual for these to even be fitted, more common on the Rapid (the saloon-shaped hatch) than the Spaceback.

Assuming its the same as a Superb there is a setting to do this.

If anyone does get a quote for a current Škoda key replacement, it would be helpful to give a guide price here. The cost from Škoda seems very high. OP said in 2023 "Dealer is quoting £393" YMMV

I've never ever had a leased car, but I would have thought that all maintenance would be either included in the cost, OR, an absolute demand clause included that made proper evidence of all necessary maintenance having been completed, especially during any warranty period - including any changes to periodicity of preventative maintenance which would be caught during the usual servicing. Doing that would be a lot easier than chasing current or past leasers for "out of pocket" expenses after a warranty rejection.

Hi. I think it's the AWD. They've told me £150 so it sounds pretty reasonable. Ill prob just get it done to save any hassle further in down the line. Thanks.

Like all budget tyres, Davanti get the job done. They are a 'British' company - HQ is UK but everything is made in a Chinese factory. For your tyre size, good quality Michelin tyres are about £160ish, however for a normal car being driven normally, there's no point. if you've got something fast, or regularly sit on soaking wet motorways then sure, but for average driving like around town, there really isn't much need. My girlfriend has some Davanti on her Fiat - not sure I'd put them on my vRS, but they absolutely do a perfect job. Toyo, Kumho, Yoko, Hankook and Uniroyal are all decent tyres. Someone took a chunk out of the tyre on our new 1 series, and BMW replaced them all with Maxxis. I love them on my MTB and wouldn't run anything else, and for 130bhp they seem to do the job.

The question would be, does the lease company expect it to have been done? I have a personal lease, but with a maintenance plan with them, so everything that the lease company wants to be done is done.

I haven't tried them but they are always advertising. https://www.newcastle-car-keys.co.uk/

That sounds like a bit of shyt show, glad fossil fuel stations I use are manned 24/7 with proper cashiers although there is always the option to pay at the pump, but most savvy drivers push the button to pay cashier rather then pay at the pump. Could be a real nightmare otherwise.

You can use 8" prelift 5E0919606 or 8" facelift 5E0919605M however in case of 5E0919605M button APP will not work unless you upgrade firmware to 03xx or 04xx which requires patching first. If you decide to upgrade to 03xx or 04xx pls note left and right channels will be swapped.

@maggieh just out of curiosity, what was the reason for fitting the new turbo, where did it come from and did you retain the old one?

Without seeing the car, I can suggest an over boost based on what said previously could be a stuck actuator (a well-known fault on 1.2 tsi based on the year; I guess a cbza or cbzb complete same engine, just a different tune). Be careful to not push it hard as a repeated overboost can cause damage. I'm also thinking (probably the most realistic scenario) of a non-calibrated turbo actuator because they're electronic and need to be calibrated, especially when you replace the turbo compressor. I hope it can help; also once you get the car back from the garage, can you report what they have done? (personal curiosity) Thank you.

If you can press hold the menu button on the system and then display the system information, that would be helpful. I would then recommend you speak with @pab567 who is our in-house resident expert in regard to upgrade paths.

I went from a 2014 diesel VRS DSG estate to a 2023 petrol VRS DSG estate. The fuel economy obviously isn't as good but still get 50mpg on a motorway run. Difference is night and day, the petrol is so smooth - defo the right choice and would never go back.

OK....I've had to do some deep digging here. The bulb holder is NOT available as a separate part !! You need to buy what Skoda call an Electrical installation wiring bundle for the Front Halogen headlights intended for vehicles manufactured after MR2014 (face-lift model). The PART NUMBER is 5LO 941 813D Cost is around £40. I've ordered one, and will cut off and splice the new holder into the existing wiring, as otherwise it means stripping back the loom which I'm reluctant to do. It's only a simple 2 wire connection. For those of you who may get the same issue.... here's the culprit !!

It's a 2019 JCW. So nowt like a hybrid I'm afraid. 30mpg if you're lucky

Good idea, but who does that? Also, who actually understands what the clauses actually mean in law? They are all carefully worded by (expensive) solicitors to give the advantage to the insurance company whilst looking "reasonable" to a non-lawyer. Insurance companies will do anything to avoid paying out. They will let something carry on for years taking your money, and you only realize it isn't going to work when you put in a claim. Then they will say, "Oh! You should have clarified this 10 years ago because you are not covered for xyz" Not that they will give you a refund for the last decade of paid for non-cover..

Turning off Lane Assist using the steering-wheel controls is described here As the Owner's Manual advises "The system is designed primarily for driving on the motorway", but its interference is infuriating on twisty rural roads. Even if a Fabia Mk4 does not have the Virtual Cockpit (VC) instrument cluster, the central display of the analogue cluster can change spontaneously. I drive with the car's speed shown digitally (as shown on the video) and, if I select navigation, the speed readout changes to show 'pictorial' navigation instructions instead and I need to take action to get the central speed readout back. If your car's VC is changing itself, there's probably a logical reason for this, not just the system being bloody-minded, but that won't help your wife. Like offthewall I use air-con a lot - otherwise the car's windscreen will rapidly mist up. And I have no difficulty controlling the windows.

Tonight's sunset 😎

You can just about guarantee that most of the pipes will be in poor condition now. The only really safe way is to effectively change all pipes that run outside the engine bay . flexi hoses (they can rot outside and/or inside). Re brake calipers/cylinders etc plus gas is your friend (soak for a few days), cut off pipe and use a well fitting socket. If they are still bad get new ones. You are probably better getting new clips/ connectors etc. Yes, you'll have to bleed all 4. You really need a pressure or vacuum bleed and something like VDCS to bleed the ABS block otherwise air remains trapped. I had a pipe pin hole blow many decades ago going down a hill towards traffic lights (my Dad's old MKIV Zodiac, single circuit brakes!). Fortunately a big v6 engine, large clutch and chunky gearbox meant I could get into reverse whilst going forward, rev the engine , drop the clutch and spin the rear wheel backwards to stop! The only casualty was my underwear but I've vowed never to repeat. A while later I saw a garage owner greasing metal brake pipes as part of his service so a) I used him for a few year, now retired sadly and b) I've either done it myself or insisted that my local independent does the same. Let's just say the metal brake pipes on Mrs BJ's 2006 Panda are still in remarkable condition.

All those computer added doobries (as well as those ridiculous electronic handbrakes) are one of the reasons why I was discounting anything over a 20-plate when I was considering changing my car. Very valid points on the alternative of splashing the cash on the odd tankful of "super" instead of Redex. My thanks for all those views. 🙂 👍 As an aside I use an App on my Ipad (I don't mind computery doobries when they are not installed in a car) called simply PetrolPrices which constantly monitors the price of petrol (and Diesel) within a definable distance from your location. I find it very helpful. They also have a website that does the same job (I am not affiliated in any way).

You can also turn the volume down at the steering column while its talking. But only while its talking.

A long shot but it could be thattvthe car has lost its recognition of the key and hence the immobiliser is kicking in?

it is gearbox with dry clutch, no debris of clutch ever floating in oil. so in that box is goin oil like in manual geearbox, 75w80. changing intervals are like on manual gearbox. i changed mine after 5 yrs and 80000 kms, but its not necessary. you can change it when timing belt set changes. 150000 kms? they say never. but thats is not theirs car but yours. heres good video. https://photos.app.goo.gl/paavvN3e8tHPjNaB7

No photos sorry, but it's the connector plug where the loom entered the ecu under the wiper panel. You need to remove the wipers, then the 2 plastic panels then you can see the ecu. 2 weeks now and no problem 😊

You need either Bolero 5Q0035842x / 565035842 or Amundsen (with built-in OEM sat nav) 5Q0035874x / 565035874 (plus SD card with maps and GPS antenna). It's not possible to activate Android Auto officially, new unit must be patched and then personalized to your car's equipment. I can deliver such unit, either Bolero or Amundsen, in Plug&Play version. If you are interested pls contact me on PM.

I found the issue, I was a bit too panicked, it was just a broken wire in the wire loom connecting the boot latch with the body of the cars. I found several other wires that had their insulation broken. Luckily spotted in time. Hopefully helped somebody.

Warning: there's a car nearby Warning: door open Don't forget your mobile telephone! Ooo don't go and reverse into that wall 50 feet behind you! Put a hat on, it's cold out. Water pump? Dunno mate, haven't got a sensor for that. Car makers need to start concentrating on useful stuff and not pointless gadgetry that's only accessible via s massive touchscreen. Anyway, happy towing.