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It will only be annoying if you carry law breakers who don't belt up, if they refuse to wear seat belt, make them walk instead.

Couple of drone shots of our project, thankfully now more completed than not..

Close but no cigar, as they say. Both headlights aim too low and too far to the right; which is a bit odd. They'll adjust those prior to retest. OSR wheel bearing rough. Bought a spare for the wheel bearing a while back, but was in one of those quandries "is the noise definitely coming from the right?" Neither of us could tell for sure from sitting in the back seat while being driven. Wish I'd done a bit more investigation, with hindsight. Will get into that this afternoon, in the first rain for ages...😆 Could have been a lot worse, I think.

Fingers crossed please friends. Dropped off the Rescue Roomster at a garage round the corner just now. MOT not due until December 24th (how did that come about?), but wanted to bring it forward to a more conducive time for working on cars. Replaced the flexi on the exhaust yesterday, and changed one slightly whitish indicator bulb, but other than those, didn't spot any obvious fails. We shall see. There's a small pit/crack in the front windscreen, but near the middle, below the rear view mirror, so I think it'll be OK. Don't think it has been an advisory previously.

Short answer is no you can’t and why would you want to if you have passengers in the back seats?

So an update. I'm ashamed to say that the issue was a droplink 😅 despite me prying it to see if it was intact, and the fact that it was less than a year old. After replacing the struts it was still making the same noise. I replaced the droplinks and it was back to normal. Better than normal actually, the suspension is so much better that what it used to be. I paid about £150 in parts. At 140k it was due. She lives on.

Uploading Attachment... Replaced rear shock absorbers. There was a bit more than 'light misting' going on with the old ones, and not a lot of damping! Car feels much more stable now and road noise is reduced.

New bearing's on, retest booked for Friday at 08:30. Didn't even get rained on! 🙂

Mate used to put nailvarnish on nuts and bolts that needed removed for servicing. Put his van in for brakes problem. When he picked it up they said they had checked brakes and cleaned them up and they were fine. Werent too happy when he pointed out that the purple nailvarnish was still on the wheel nuts on rear and asked them how they checked/cleaned drum brakes with wheels on. He refused to pay bill and has never been back. Alasdair

Dash works 😎 also does let you roll back the mileage so I should be able to get it to match mine when I get round to fitting it

'Dim bulb' is often an indicator of an earthing problem somewhere.

You need a phone that is capable of using the 5Ghz band for Android Auto Wireless to work properly

A couple from this evening - best sunset we've had for a while...........

Try telling human passengers "put your seat belt on or get out and walk!" Dogs will probably accept being belted in after a week or so.

Just an update to you all, after all your advice today, I have managed to access and check relevant boxes on the developer settings on my Huawei P20 Pro phone, the Android Auto App, and the AA Wireless App I reset my phone to apply changes. Tomorrow is a new day, so I will attempt another setup on my Octavia System... Fingers crossed it works... 🤞😊

VfL Immo 5A Facelift Immo 5C

My Superb has had the 'mapping loading’ message since new in December 2024. Sent months being promised an update. Went in for the ACC stick replacement in July and they kept it for 4 days to do all the software updates. Maps now appear in the virtual cockpit and ACC works perfectly. Hope you have similar luck.

You can adjust the virtual cockpit to show it - It can be set to show permanently on the left hand side screen.

If you tell me the VIN, I can check whether the parts catalogue suggests your car should or should not have a G83 sensor. I will start a private message conversation with you so that you don't have to put the VIN in public view.

Scroll to the bottom. Didn’t know it did that. Have just reset exactly as advised. Thank you so much.

I bought a Superb wagon that was missing one of the rear vent operators (great car, I love it!). This thread encouraged me to try to fix it (thanks everyone). So I thought I would post here for others that will follow with the same problem (although that complete unit on Ali in the above post looks pretty good). These Mercedes Benz tabs on Ali worked well. The rear vent tab fitted very well (the claw at the back was a better fit than the longer claws on the front vent tabs). I think the rear right and rear left are identical.... I pull the vent out using a credit card like others here have done, takes 10 seconds (maybe a bit longer the first time). Then I split the body apart (that way you don't have to undo the cable - though I did in the photo below .... it stays with the inner part that you can leave in the car). I found the rear tab in the above set (you buy them separately) is just a little tight on the vent louvres, so I give it a little bit of a scrape on the inside with a knife so that it can move freely (but don't scrape too much, in case it gets too loose and rattles): Put it all together. You will have to work out how to orient them to get the full movement left-right and up-down. They look different to the original The one on the left below is the new one from Ali, the one on the right the original So you need two of them (they are identical) and replace both, which I have done now (but didn't take a photo). The rear vent tab does not come with the metal spring that goes inside, but the front ones do. I initially bought both so that I could fit the rear vent tab and instal a spring with it, but I find with these tabs, the spring doesn't do much. If you just need the spring to fix your OEM tab, you could try one of the front vent tabs for the replacement spring that comes with it, they fit well and look almost identical. The photo below compares the OEM spring with the one that came with the front vent tab on Ali. This is it in position, before installing the vent tab (pretty good fit!): The ad on Ali shows the spring when you scroll through the options for the front tabs: Here is a link to(for as long as it works) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005874666828.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.6d8518029qgM5f Good luck.

I have had a 23 Fabia DSG from new and absolutely LOVE the gearbox. Most things about this car I find to be excellent. I have a couple of minor niggles but they are my personal foibles around the infotainment system. I chose the auto because of the arthritis in my knees and have found it to be the best box I have driven. This is the 3 cylinder 999cc model and I generally get in the low 40's around town and up to 58 on a good run. Hope this helps.

first you have tap several times (i think 7 times ) on the bottom where is section "version and permission info" than developer option will be available. it is common gesture for enter additional options everywhere on android phone.

I know but everyone seemed to say only forward not back

Damn, cannot have both, shame. R4 just arrived at local Renault. Would have opted for 40 kwh LFP but not confirmed it is coming to uk. Only getting the £1500 off so far notified. I think Renault miffed that they might only get the 1500 when cousin company Nissan might get the full 3750, looks a bit of a fix up to favour uk made EVs.

Thank you. Your diagnosis was 100% correct.

My younger daughter’s 2019 Arona with the 115PS version of that engine, at some time of it’s life, ended up with the turbo inlet pipe (manifold) getting disassembled and so there was an air gap at that point! It could have been her local VAG Indie as they did record that they had checked the air filter element at its 2024 service. I checked the air filter last week and was pleased to see that the replacement turbo inlet pipe was still in one piece - they had replaced the air filter at its 2025 service. The cover for the pollen filter had a hole in it, ie a chunk of plastic missing, I applied strong fabric reinforced tape to both sides of it to seal it up. I’m not placing any blame on that garage for doing that as the plastic used is shocking for that application, but in both cases, surely the fitter/mechanic knew that they had broken something and just left it. Accidents/breakages can happen but an honest worker should surely report it and/or fix it either at the garage’s cost or the customer’s cost.

With the right tools it has always been possible to adjust the mileage

On screen First value is the for sensor G62 50deg - sensor on engine. Second value for sensor G83 is the cooler radiator outlet one - 88 deg which is calculated by ECU when car has only G62 sensor.

Thanks Lee, much appreciated.

If you are only changing 2 then there is usual problem of mixing all season and summer, will behave differently in cold weather. Having said that, if there are old budget tyres, not going to be greatest grip anyway. Your comment about you like your driving seems to conflict with the idea of budget tyres, as budget tyres either do not last as long, or do not grip as well (simple economics, if cut costs, can't afford expensive compounds that are grippier and are more wear resistant). I would be inclined to move to all season tyres, as I wouldn't recommend lively driving on winding country roads, in cold and/or wet weather on budget summer tyres.

Yes they are all like that.

the supply voltage of the control unit is KL15 or KL30?

I think that when you turn the car off, that page appears, and I believe there is a ‘pencil’ icon in the corner of the screen … to edit the content on the screen

Mine also - makes at least 3 ! Like that since new, drains off nicely when you wash the bonnet? 😄

Recently we've been on 25 day trip to Lithuania to visit SWMBO's family and friends by car. We went on the Harwich-Hook of Holland overnight ferry, stayed overnight in Bielefeld, Poznan and Bialystok before arriving in Klaipėda for 13 nights in an apartment we rented. We then went on to Vilnius for 3 nights before heading home, staying in Warsaw, Dresden, Arnsberg and Calais before taking the ferry to Dover. The car behaved itself all the way and just needed petrol. The outward journey went smoothly with no delays, though we ran into some heavy rain at times in Germany and Poland. The return journey wasn't so good, as there were long delays around Wroclaw in Poland with roadworks and around Essen in Germany, where the A40 was closed for resurfacing, where we got a bit lost in the town. The results of our trip are as below. The mpg suffered on the way home in the holdups as it was showing just over 55mpg when we arrived in Klaipėda, having shown a best of 59mpg driving through The Netherlands with their speed limit of 100kph. The mpg would have also been reduced a little by lots of small journeys around the cities where we were staying in Lithuania.

Extremely unlikely that the timing belt would have suffered deterioration in just 10k KM to warrant repeat replacement.

I bought it from a dutch company called vd Ven is a dealer in parts for all cars.. I saw that RRR.lt sold them to. Ebay.co.uk has them. But watch the H49 hardware versions there should be a picture with the right hardware on it. I paid 425 euro's for it. Mine is a year old from a 2024 plate

If they damaged it while working on it its down to them to repair/make good. Main problem may be proving it was them? When you pick up a car from a garage dealer or not you trust them that its been done right. I don't know anyone who inspects a car before leaving the garage . Check with CAB as said. If the dealer has refused to repair it you could always point out that any publicity of that kind won't help their reputation. By the sound of it you wont be using them again anyway. Alasdair

Torch: 3T0947471E and 9B9 if black Holder: 3t094757509A and 9b9 if black I bought the holder separately BUT it's not very nice to se when torch is attached as the 12v socket stays on its own; it's much better look for a pre-owned full panel with the support. Last but not least: when boot is open torch light is halogen yellow, while white led only when detached, not too satisfiied of

I can confirm that G13 and G12 evo are fully compatible for top-up or refill. There may be a colour change depending on different pigment of each coolant. Capacity is 7.5 to 8 litres if coolant system is completely empty. There is a possibility of introducing airlocks in cooling system if a special bleeding procedure is not followed - I'd advise a check on this.

Update to 1985 with engine running was successful. No Problems. Thanks for the guide and files.

I would say you have a mib3... this one from above Mib3 (Superb Mk3.FL and similar) Tiguan 3G5 035 820 Q "FM3-E3-DWBC4-EU-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBC4-EU-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBC4-EU-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-WBC4-RW-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-WBC4-RW-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-WBC4-RW-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-WBC4-US-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-EU-FO-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-EU-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-EU-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-W2-FO-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-W2-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-W2-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-HWBC4-RW-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EE-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EE-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-R2-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-R2-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-RW-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-RW-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W2-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W2-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W3-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EE-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EE-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EU-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EU-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-R2-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-R2-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-RW-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-RW-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W2-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W2-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W3-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-RW-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-RW-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EE-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EE-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EU-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EU-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-RW-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-RW-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-W2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-W2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-R2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-R2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-RW-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-RW-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W3-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EE-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EE-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EE-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-R2-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-R2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-R2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-RW-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-RW-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-W2-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-W2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-W2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-R2-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-R2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-R2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W2-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W3-SK-MQB-PC" Content Downloadable Size 2023.12.20 2023.12.20 162 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.48b.zip 2024.05.17 2024.11.07 1,13 GB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.50.zip 2025.01.14 2025.02.20 166 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_NonGP_JND_Europe_v1.31.56.zip 2025.01.08 2025.05.26 833 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.56.zip 2025.03.19 2025.06.11 167 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.58.zip What I did become aware of and waiting for @MartiniB comment is that firmware and logos get pushed to people out of contract if you are the primary user and chosen not to go incognito. The thread is where you want to upload the logos yourself and out of contract, but I suspect you might get thd logo uodate if the firmware is updated out of contract. You can fumble with the information screens to find what radio logo database you are on and compare with the above. There is no way to manually enter your own png image for missing logos. VAG closed that route down. Its a gripe of mib3. Haven't got mib3 myself. What I would say is you just unzip those files and present correctly. You can't tinker with mib3 files. It won't see them if you do. Use the latest 7zip for unzip or the latest windows file manager to drag and drop the files onto a blank USB-C. Adapters for type a to c are not recommended since some are not fully wired for data. Reversible memory sticks are liked with a data flashing light on them. So basically if you are in connected services contract, the mib3 file wont be required and it seems least for Seat updates are pushed over the air even if you aren't in contract, but that might be as part of a firmware update. I'd be interested to know whether Skoda out of connect services contract users are getting firmware updates and whether they get the radio logo one as well over the air.

Nice! My Graphite Grey 2.0 TSI Sportline also came from Marshall. I also looked at the VRS, but no discount possible; however, I got £7k off the Sportline with 3 packs and free mudflaps.

We have a big red fire engine

Thank you ufwojcie. I might just draft my very own little preflight checklist to manage the many options resetting to default at journeys end 🤔 🤓

You could try taking it to a place that has an MOT bay with a shaker plate, most likely found in a place that does light commercials and motorhomes (and ambulances !). With a good operator these can detect slight play that traditional pry bar techniques can't.

Just a quick update. The MCU is on its way back from Germany. I'm based in Ireland so sent it to Germany as opposed to the UK, avoiding the customs hassle and poor exchange rate. Just for clarification this is the MCU for the DQ381 in a Skoda Superb 2020 2.0 TDI 190 2WD Related codes: 10666 / P173500 – Position sensor for clutch 1, electric fault. 10668 / P173600 – Position sensor for clutch 2, electric fault The issue is one or both of the Bosch pressure sensors failing, these are mounted inside the MCU. They can be replaced at home , If you're handy with a soldering iron. The 2 pieces work out around €300, plus your time. I sent mine away, peoce of mind it's done correctly and 2 years warranty. I hope to get the MCU fitted sometime this week. Will update as it happens.

And so the work begins. Getting ready to be shipped off for repair!

Problem solved ! I hate when there's no follow up on threads. And especially because there are other threads on the forum with exactly the same problem as mine - but without any follow up how it was soved - I will below write a detailed "how to fix it". On these MkII models there is a relay numbered "484" that does the complete DRL function. It's the same type of relay as I linked to above. Sadly the relays are located inside the dash panel, but if you have small/thin hands/arms it's possible to reach the relays from below without disassemble a lot (ask a child...). Remove the foam above the pedals. It has no screws, but be careful not to break it. Remove the cover on side of the dashboard on drivers side (mostly to get a better view, not possible to reach the relay from here) Remove the light switch: In "0", push in the knob some mm and turn it slightly to the right, This will release the locks and the switch unit can then be pulled out. Remove the connector from switch (push the locking tabs on its sides) and route the connector to the dashboard side opening to free up the hole Now you can see the relay "484". With a long tool it may be possible to take it out through the light switch hole, otherwise you need to grab it from below, Remove the cover of the relay (two snap lockings, quite easy) Inspect the PCB for suspect and/or cracked soldering, In our car I think it was the signals to one relay coil that was interrupted by a crack. May be barely visible (looks like a ring in the soldering). Re-solder all suspected pads. In the picture the suspected/cracked pins are already re-soldered: Re-assemble the relay, put it in place again and connect the light switch connector to the light switch again. Test the car with light switch in position "0" - side/parking light should be activated with ignition on, and after staring the engine the dipped beam should light up. If everything works, re-assemble the rest of the panels and covers. You have now saved a lot of money 🙂