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Stationary car has rev limiter not broke.

The Superb had it's first MOT today, all good except a nail was found in the rear tyre which is shown as an 'advisory', luckily it was in a repairable area so they fixed it before I picked it up.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pHhf05ZfCgSUHKWJjW2IAlHXzhsgcllg/view?usp=drivesdk New link

Job done. I think that little cable was a bit stretched as with the new lock, the outside handle had to be fully pulled for the lock to open and it was already on the last groove. I just put a knot in it and that reduced it by about 5mm, giving me plenty of adjustment. Onto the next job lol

Just read on here that crankshaft speed/position sensor can be a cause with rarely a fault code Extract from article 'The G28 sensors are known to suffer heat related failure and not to leave a code which makes them harder to diagnose. With the symptoms mentioned and especially the rev counter behaviour, it makes it certain for me without doing direct diagnosis such as logging the G28 signal. Also, the G28 is just about the only sensor that will cut an engine instantly if you disconnect it when running.' I also read that the car wont start again until cool and it can affect the rev counter. Alasdair

Thanks for the replies. Didn't realise car had stationary limiter. Old octy didnt seem to have one. Thought I had a major ECU prob as need the car for tomorrow. Willreset windows when I get a chance. Thanks again Alasdair

Also B8 Passat was first MQB around 2015/16. B6 & B7 Passat are PQ46 A4 has always been longitudinal layout so completely different platform to Octavia.

Hi, I'm a 50-something Software Engineer. Always been a fan of cars and driving, including owning a share in a racing kart, two Westfields (one of which I competed with in Sprints). Always been a fervent manual car driver, but after replacing my Mondeo with a manual Octavia in June 2025 and driving my wife's Scala with the DSG gearbox (purchased at the same time), I started to become converted. 'Upgraded' to a DSG Octavia in September 2025, and gradually getting to grips with it! Andy

The Superb MK2 needs 5/112 57.1 rims. Are these new rims 6.5Jx17 ET39 5/100 57.1? If so, 5/100 is incorrect and won't fit because you won't physically be able to insert the wheel bolts...due to the holes in the rims being in the wrong place. Do the 205/50R17 tyres have a load index of 89(580kg) or 93(650kg)? If only 89(580kg) they probably won't be able to support the maximum axle weight of the Superb MK2. The Superb MK2 usually needs tyres with a load index of at least 91(615kg) or 92(630kg)...depending on model. The Superb MK2 normally uses rims with an offset between ET45 and ET50...so ET39 is 6mm outside of this range. 205/55R16 is a much cheaper (and more comfortable) tyre size than 205/50R17, so it might be better to look at this tyre size (with suitable rims) instead of 205/50R17. The Superb MK2 3.6 V6 needs at least 17" rims to clear the front brake calipers, but all other models can use 16" rims.

Appreciate all the advice

I'm going to take the plunge and give it a go! I've ordered the charger, I'll let you know how I get on. Cheers Phil

Good idea, I'll remember that for my next door handle job! Glad it's all done.

The click click from starter hasn't happened again. Dont know why it happend with good battery but if its working I am happy. Old saying if its not broken dont fix it. Will be taking socket set and multimeter etc with me for a while just in case. Alasdair

Generally when going for a larger rim the problem is also the clearance between tyre/rim and struts, try to look at the gap you currently have to see how much space you have look at this website It should be helpful https://www.willtheyfit.com/ This is what they say: Compared to your existing wheel, this new wheel will have an inner rim which is 4.4mm closer to the suspension strut. The outer rim will poke out 8.4mm more than before.

I'm going for a clean first to see if that fixes the issue,big it does, I'll consider the reversal of the fix, or even deleting the egr valve and putting a blanking plate in. Fed up with the carbon/soot deposits!

Not sure if yours is the manual or DSG, but if it's a DSG could be the secondary thermostat as it was in this case here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/445467-dsg-equipped-cars-second-thermostat/

Hi firejinx 🙂 Thank you so much for your help. I have checked the wiring with a meter and everything appears to be fine, hence I think I have the same problem. I shall investigate how to remove the old actuator and fit a new one. Apologies for taking so long to respond, my computer is on a go slow. Best wishes, and thank you once again, John

Right

So I had a T belt change recently....at 310,000km. I'm pretty sure it was the original. Looked reasonable still but no idea if the idlers were a bit done. Seemed like a good thing to do at that mileage. I reckon 300K is a good run. Bearing in mind my Landcruiser has a 150K interval.

Yeah got it ... same thing we are doing for months. Someday someone will do it at a reasonable distance from me ... I hope

Haven't had a chance to install them yet. Hoping to try this weekend.

I'm probably wrong, but after the excellent advice I received on here, I thought I'd give it a go!

VIN pls

I've been down this road of a headgasket myself - The big sign was bubbling of the coolant with the engine running and the expansion tank cap off. Rule out the EGR cooler first by bypassing it in the coolant circuit. If the bubbling stops then its the EGR cooler if it doesn't (like me) then it may be either a cracked head or a headgasket - Is there any coolant on the floor or steam from the exhaust? You can get a sniff test done to see if there is any exhaust gasses in the water system. My problems started with a small loss of coolant every so often - Then we were going to go on a road trip and had the timing belt and waterpump changed. It all went downhill after that. At the end mine had massive pressure in the system, using about a tankful of coolant every 80 miles, steam from the exhaust and an odd hydrlock on startup. Mine was blatantly obvious - No question about it🤣

All kinds antennaes and sensors for sniffing out radar and comms frequencies etc for military purposes, ie., jamming them etc.

Mk4 golf - PQ34 Mk1 octy - PQ34 Mk5 golf - PQ35 Mk2 Octy - PQ35 Evolution, not replacement: PQ35 was not a complete redesign from PQ34, but rather a significant advancement As I said a modified (heavily) version of the PQ34 👍🏻😉 What I actually got wrong was the mk5, which I got the timing wrong for, I couldn’t remember off the top of my head if MQB was out for mk5 or mk6

Cairns, I shall check but it does say LED on the unit and both the Skoda dealer andmy local mechanic say it is the whole unit.

A few from Waddington earlier this morning (Cobra Warrior)..........

The Mk2 octavia is a Mk5 golf underneath, not a Mk4

To properly fix that, u need to get the DCC Mod. I realise this not an option for everyone, but if ur able to find someone who can do it - it does wonders and the suspension setup is brilliant, even with the factory 19s.

Diagnose Tool Like obd 11 or something Else. The heating is Managed by the BCM

I must have seen hundreds of posts like this over the years. Unless you really feel like lashing out the cash up front, the first job is making sure what you've got is up to scratch - more often than not it turns out the problem was previous maintenance (or lack of) on a new-to-them car. Old fluid, sticky calipers and the cheapest crappiest pads known to man so it'll make it through MoT/sale/handback, none of which are conducive to good braking. Once that's been ruled out then 340/310 parts are cheap and plentiful - Golf R/GTI PP, Cupra, S3 can all act as donors. Ironically getting them off a Superb is probably the rarest point of supply.

Further testing complete Steve and apols, I think you may be correct re the info you supplied above - However...when you enable Carplay as you say the contacts list vanishes, but you can still make manual calls via the car app (the speed dial entries and contacts list disappear). So what is going on, it's like it's half connected Also I'm now seeing a message on the dash "please connect a bluetooth phone" or similar - yet when you manually make a call this message vanishes (without you having to touch Bluetooth settings at all). Tres tres confusing...

/\ this. You can also just full lock the steering to each side to reset the pad light before driving off.

To resurrect a very old thread and for those perhaps coming by…. Car was booked in for a towbar to be fitted today. Get a phone call and hour after drop off to find out it already has a skoda swooping drop down tow bar fitted but someone had changed the bubba to one without a hole hence never saw it or it never deployed before!

Twelfth month stats from the car Aug-Sep Includes 256mile to Devon 468mile @ 4.2m/kwh = 111.42 kwh. (120kwh Dc charging £57.45) + [email protected] (£9.14) = £66.68 My Mondeo would have averaged 60 mpg for 256m 0f these 468miles (£25.90) and 35mpg for 212milesm @£1.349 litre (£36.77) = £62.67 Long term guessometer now reset. Stat from the GOM the car has been on for 19.49 hours and averaged 24mph. For anyone interested in the twelve month totals. My electricity cost has been £466.26 Diesel would have been £709.79. If I had a Home wallbox and a smart tariff of 7ppkwh My "home" charging would have been £70.32 making my total ev figure for the year £348.37 so I could have saved another £117.89 Which would probably pay for having a wallbox in 8 years.

3 year warranty had expired and we had not extended it. The headlamp bulbs can be changed independently but the LED indicators are not - hence the whole unit needing replacing.

Agree. I'd run it for a bit until your mate gets back from holidays at least. Id just replace the clutch when it starts to slip regularly under normal driving. Next time it slips, try lifting the pedal a bit. Might do nothing but may allow it to release the throwout bearing a bit more

Hi All, Thanks very much for your replies and suggestions. So, after giving it some further thought, I checked and noticed that the brake pedal is as high as the clutch on my Karoq and even if I switched to a DSG, this would probably still be an issue. This led to another internet search and a post on this forum came up - DSG brake pedal height (DSG brake pedal height - Skoda Karoq - BRISKODA). In that post a forum member had the solution to use some carpet cut-outs placed under the official Skoda mat, thereby raising their feet higher (and the car pedals correspondingly lower). Intrigued, I bought some carpet off-cut and set to work copying the design and this has made a big difference 🙂 The pedals now feel a similar height to what I remember in my Fabia and, whilst the clutch is still stiffer, the drive is much more comfortable. I thought I'd post the update and link here in case anyone else has a similar issue.

Superb 1.6TDI: 5 speed manual is with single mass flywheel - longlasting and clutch needs replacement with high mileage 6 speed manual is with dual mass flywheel - typical problems, like rattle noise etc

@nta16 I'm away ATM so i cant try the headlights and blower things till i get back next week. I did do the steering-wheel thing, however - that got rid of all the other errors. I did upgrade to an AGM battery, but i think i adapted it correctly. For the serial # i used the installation date - eight digits instead of ten, but i dont think that matters. The scratches you see have been there a good while, so that's unrelated to this issue. The child lock thing i still dont get - i will need to do some testing, i think. Re the ACC misalignment, I read that OBDeleven Pro can be used to recallibrate the sensor - any experience with that tool? "Use it when the error code "C110300 - Adaptive Cruise Control sensor misadjusted" appears. As long as the radar is positioned correctly, this application can fix calibration issues without the need for special stands or other tools." https://obdeleven.com/customizations/skoda/adaptive-cruise-control-calibration

Hopefully the fault will just be failing plugs or coil pack/s. Allow them an attempt to rectify the fault, then see how it is. Insist they give you full details of the cause of the fault and what was done to rectify it.

Well, the gen 3 ea888 are generally well regarded but that's not to say they never ever ever fail in a serious way or ever need repairs..... Your concern is genuine. As the car has been traded and sold on to you and within short time shows a eml and fault.. Is it bad luck, did the last owner trade it due to the issue.... all unknowns. It really depends if the faultl is easily resolved permanently or if there is a nasty deeper level cause that lingers. Misfires easy solutions tend to be plugs, coli packs, more expensive injectors, very expensive valves or piston rings... 30 days is a statutory return period. You also have 6 months statutory protection edit; for repair, with the selling dealer if they are still trading, that presumes faults in first 6 months existed from the start....regardless of any third party insurance warranty document. If you can get it repaired by the dealer within 30 days and it gives you enough time to try and drive fault free for a little while before the 30 day expiry that would be ideal. But may not be possible....

This is the DCC Slider Mod that gets thrown about. Basically update the software so that rather than have 3 settings of firmness to the shocks you have 15 I think. The standard settings are better than the original boat feeling and you can tweak individual to be any of the new points. You need the files and VCPro or ODIS to do it though. Have still looked at it but the only place I can find the files is MHHauto forum which you need to pay to register. Just need Arteon files stuck somewhere like mibsolution and we could be away.

According to Jurid/Ferodo/Valeo on autodoc, the Superb MK3 1.4TSI iV 160kW/218PS has 312x25mm front brake discs and 300x12mm rear brake discs. All Superb MK3 models use the 312x25mm front and 300x12mm rear brake disc combination except for the powerful 2.0TSI 272/280PS 4x4 models which use the bigger 340x30mm front and 310x22mm rear brake disc combination. The 312x25mm front brake discs could be upgraded to 314x30mm from the Kodiaq. The Kodiaq uses these 314x30mm front brakes discs in combination with the 300x12mm rear brake discs. The 314x30mm front brake discs use the same front brake calipers as the 340x30mm front brake discs. 314x30mm front brake discs enable the use of 16" wheels, whereas the bigger 340x30mm front brake discs need at least 17" wheels to clear the front brake calipers. One owner reported that the 310x22mm rear brakes also need at least 17" wheels to clear the rear brake calipers. The increase in piston diameter of the front brake calipers when going from 312x25mm front brake calipers to 314x30mm/340x30mm front brake calipers will increase the pressure applied to the front brake pads by 10.8%, ie. (60/57)x(60/57)=1.108033241 The increase in the surface area of the front brake pads when going from 312x25mm front brake calipers to 314x30mm/340x30mm front brake calipers is about 18.2% (estimate only as based on outside lengths and outside heights of front brake pads), ie. (175.2/160.2)x(69.7/64.5)=1.1818018175 314x30mm/340x30mm front brake discs have more effective cooling than 312x25mm front brake discs. The performance of the 314x30mm front brakes is probably closer to the 340x30mm front brakes than the 312x25mm front brakes. On the Superb MK3, all the master cylinders use a 23.8mm (15/16"=23.8mm) bore for both the 312x25mm/300x12mm and 340x30mm/310x22mm brake disc combinations. Piston diameter 312x25mm front brake caliper 57mm 314x30mm/340x30mm front brake caliper 60mm 314x30mm front brake discs (Kodiaq build code 1LW) (TRW brake calipers) Left caliper 3C0615123 Right caliper 3C0615124 Left carrier 7N0615125 Right carrier 7N0615126 Disc 1K0615301AJ Brake pads 8V0698151C https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/KOD/804/6/615/615010 312x25mm front brake discs 8.6kg 314x30mm front brake discs 9.4kg 340x30mm front brake discs 10.8kg Front brake pads for 312x25mm front brake discs Front brake pads for 314x30mm/340x30mm front brake discs

@leolito you were correct, Brown=ground and Red/Yellow=live. I managed to get the seat powered up. Thanks very much mate!

Škoda Storyboard100th anniversary of the Škoda–Laurin & Klement merger -...Mladá Boleslav, 12 September 2025 – In 1925, as the Mladá Boleslav-based company Laurin & Klement was celebrating its 30th anniversary and 20 years of automobile production, it joined forces with t...Škoda StoryboardFour million SUVs built, seven model series: Škoda Auto’s...Mladá Boleslav, 18 September 2025 – Škoda Auto has produced its four-millionth SUV, confirming strong customer demand for this vehicle category. The brand’s first modern SUV was the Yeti, launched...

I love the smell of leather too, certainly better than stale fags! Didn't have the time to drop into Gliptone on my way back home yesterday, but back up that way in a few weeks so will make time then. In the meantime, £15 spent on eBay and a few minutes of my time this afternoon to get rid of the only physical evidence of smoking in the car was well worth it...that cherry burn was really starting to niggle me! Enjoy the rest of your weekend all :-) Nick

Top GearHere are nine of Skoda's greatest hitsOnce the punchline to many a dad joke, there have actually been some cracking cars in Skoda's history

I used that button once, a couple of years ago, when my (new) UK car broke down while on holiday in Ireland. Since I wasn't in the UK it connected to some international help service, and the first thing I heard was the typical "press 1 for xxx, press 2 for yyy, etc". Since there was absolutely no keypad where I could press anything it was completely useless. I tried waiting, speaking numbers out loud, but nothing worked. In the end I googled the service number & called it on my phone, where I couild press number buttons. I reported it to Skoda, but never heard anything, looks like it's as badly designed & tested as the rest of MIB3.