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Imagine the flow of electrons as the same as water in a pipe - you push water in one end and the water in the pipe already gets shoved out the other end “instantly” bringing water to you flowers, or electricity to a light bulb, but it isn’t really instant. We are getting closer to our own French interconnector being ready, but it’s going to cause chaos with all those French speaking electrons mixing into our native English/Irish grid electrons. I really hope my toaster is able to translate!

New Firmware: 0255T https://mega.nz/#P!AgHS_yJZOttyWeIZ--M_MEf90ExiR33mmOvaRoSnGRi1K61n6Peq9dO0KzpVVTZCAYIj407Lg09K8RZXfARMYDBi7lfU_9RtNy08N1zXbVlxFpyzpbrQskxYhUakgrRpxdU16KEsrzA

Superskoda/Kopacek are the place to go for black badges. They get a local dealer to spray to match your body colour. Match that to wrapping of the window surrounds. Aluminium pedals? Ottocast for wireless AA/Carplay? Cool white interior led bulb set?

I reckon Fountains Abbey in the Mist rivals Whitby Abbey?

Hey, i have same problem with GPS goes crazy, the dealer in Israel updated the version to 1989, but still have some issue with the GPS.. i have been told that the SOS module needs to be replaced.. so they will take my car in January, and i will update here if it fixes the problem.

Correct it is easy on the 4.5 to have the stop start button permanently on the infotainment screen.

Is anyone having issues using the remote climate control? For the last week all I get is the below error message. “Air Conditioning will not be started. Unfortunately, we cannot complete your request right now. This situation is likely to be a temporary connection issue - please try again later”

Not sure about the GPS problem. If not working you'll have to reset it by your local dealer. Be sure to perform a factory reset after the install.

The thing that is not uncommon is when they drive Left Hand drives and then find when they come to the UK they are not quite as well handling as when on Continental European Roads, controls not really suited to Right hand drive cars, or there are issues needing ironed out like the brake pedal / firewall. There is also Haymarket Media Group / Autocar / What car naming cars Car of the Year and great reviews, and then a year or 3 later when the snagging faults are still not ironed out they say nothing. Maybe even making the Model their Used Car choice. Tha

Ah, English is not my first language. I listed things a little quick and changed the sentence without realising i wrote the egr too. AS far as i know the egr doesn't affect oil usage, but when youve first accessed it to do work on the turbo and dpf, theres no point in not adressing it as it is common to get clogged.

Cars out now will be model year 2026. MY26 Next year they will be building MY27

Why they call them car of the year for a year not yet here when there will be be new cars out next year is just the strangest of things. They are driving and scoring cars available now. this being 2025.

The UK government decided to not progress with a Contract for Difference (CfD) for the Morocco – UK Power Project. This decision was announced in June 2025, and left the project without an off-take route. This was despite it being privately financed in its entirety, with Xlinks taking on all investment risk. Xlinks continues to explore alternatives to bring the Project’s value to both Morocco and Britain. You can view the official statement on the decision by clicking here.

in the UK you don't get sound insulation under the bonnet because the sounds of crashing about on our rubbish roads means you cannot hear the engine anyway😄

Is the oil pressure message still there when car is running. If it has gone off then hopefully either a blip or faulty oil pressure sensor. Seems odd there are no stored codes? Oil from the video looks pretty new and clean.

It's still there, under the decaying bag. doesn't seem any more rusty than usual. I popped the hood, stuck the earth lead on it and turned the key. started right up. what a champ. I ran it for 10 mins or so, then stuck a battery charger on it which said it was full in less than 10 mins. I'll do that a couple more times over winter. I cannot WAIT for spring.

And I know I harp on about this but don’t forget if it’s a DSG the stop/start can be controlled by how you use your foot brake. Light pressure for no stop/start more pressure to make stop/start kick in.

This part in the video i have tried with krytox.. made it better in my opinion

Hello Yesterday I bought summer rims for my Fabia. The rims are from Seat, but the seller will exchange the center caps for original Skoda ones for the purchase price. The rims are 7J17 ET 43. The rims will be mounted with Continental PremiumContact 7 tires in size 205/45/17. I'm very happy with the purchase of these rims. I got myself a gift from Santa 😄

They are twice a year on the official release as per your weeks. November and June but the files are produced before that then if you are lucky the brands website will show them. Vag and their map production suppliers Here Maps (mib1, mib2 high, mib3) and Tom Tom (mib2 standard) now have their map production streamlined. They have to have it streamlined for the monthly mib3 connected services update. Thus I believe why we saw the November releases months ago way before November. They sat in the fileservers but not wrapped in a web page. It's just how it is now except at some stage mib2 might not be supported but we'll see.

But 12v battery? OEM?

Battery? How old is it?

Be aware that many owners have had a serious problem with the 1.5 engine where it stalls for no apparent reason, it can lead to a dangerous situation. It is unpredictable so most worrying. Others with the same engine have not experienced any problems. Look at posts on this Forum or other VW based Forums to see the magnitude of the problem.

Best drive them and see. They will do 75 mph which ever engine and keep up with modern traffic including vRS,s. They will pass traffic quick enough for safe passes in the NSL,s.

yes

I checked the pump and it works for a few seconds after turning the key.

My 2024 Skoda Fabia SE L has drum rear brakes, but my 2009 Skoda Roomster has rear disc brakes. At low speed (walking pace) both cars will decelerate savagely if the brake pedal is depressed abruptly, but at higher speed the braking effect is reasonably linear and progressive. This seems perfectly reasonable to me and, as I'm picky about getting a comfortable and efficient driving position when I drive a vehicle (and don't drive wearing wellingtons or hob-nail boots) I have no difficulty braking gently in either car at low speeds. It's to be expected that the low speed braking abruptness will be accentuated if the car has stood for a while and surface rust has formed on the discs. As mentioned above, this should improve when the car has been driven for a while and the rust rubbed off. I'm very doubtful that replacing a Fabia mk4's front discs and/or brake pads on a like-for-like basis would tame down the abrupt low-speed braking. 'Track day' braking parts are available, but these are intended to cope with heavy braking from high speed, rather than alter low speed braking behaviour. I owned two VW Golf GTi Mk 1 cars that had appalling brakes. I replaced the pads and front brake discs (the rear brakes were drum-type) with 'competition' parts but to no avail. The lousy brakes were universally criticised by UK owners and were a consequence of VW's LHD to RHD conversion. The 'cure' came when a UK Golf specialist offered a conversion that moved the brake-servo from the car's left to the right. My wife's VW Polo Formel E also had brakes that required a very heavy brake-pedal pressure to stop the car quickly. This was because, when VW marketed RHD polos, they just dispensed with the brake servo!

My photo was taken from underneath, I'm assuming the switch with the 2 wires is the reverse light switch......it's way higher than the driveshafts so would be fine to fill from here. I'd be sceptical about removing the black plastic nut. I'm going to remove the airbox and take a look from above, will do this over the weekend.

Your photo shows a normal cruise control (CCS) system, and the marking only indicates a button for accessing the menu in the on-board computer for the assistant systems.

I have a second stalk for ACC. This is MY20 vRS Challenge, DSG

I am still trying to get my head around that electrons go in the opposite direction to the current. It's magic isn't it, like microwave ovens, radio waves etc. Those electrons from the Denmark, France, Norway have to be declared at customs and then they might pop over to Ireland via the UK-Ireland interconnector. Wonder how long they spend in the UK or if one in and a different one out of the same quality.

But as @Aspman has discovered, those cheap night rate ones are the wrong type of electron for some batteries 😂😂

Yeah both filters were fitted and they aren't expensive anyway. No way will i change that oil every 80k I do starship miles 2023 L&K and its already done 113k

A superb thanks to you JR RS! This was very helpful info, i also found your other post on here with Apertures giving some good info about this aswell😁: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/517411-help-please-how-do-i-connect-additional-led-strip-to-existing-drls/ found the nice pdf about leutche channels in MQB platfroms that cleared up the coding and meaning of things like how to determine the BCM connector pins etc. I will have to see what channels would be available in my BCM setup, hoping something along the lines what you figured out if the BCM connections are not too different on MY16 vs. MY17. As for the plug option, i dont see it being too bad either if i dont want to mess with BCM or if it turns out too challenging for me. Regarding the BCM pins i understood i need to order the pin with a small lead of wire and then extend it with a tail piece to get this done, i found 2 codes for possible options, but like you mentioned on the other post that you ordered the wrong kinds of pins first time round, would one of these part n. work for the BCM: 1.https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/000979009e-cable-line-european-union-43850.html 000 979 009 E 000 979 009 N 907 647 01 OR https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/000979009ea-cable-line-skoda-29570.html 000 979 009 EA 000 979 009 A N 907 647 03 And also one last note, is just the case that the BCM + line can supply all the power the led bars need? So + goes to BCM and - to any ground, or does BCM connected loops have their spesific grounding points? i assume if one were to connect a truly high power light it would need to be done via relay or extrenal modules as i cant believe the thin bcm wires can supply too much power. Any tips for the routing of wire from BCM to engine bay and so on, or just elbow grease and a good temper? 😆 (LHD) -S

I don't think that there is anything to worry about, just noises from tappets getting oil pressure up to them and there will be extra petrol injectors noises at cold start.

Thanks - and apologies, both at the same time. I didn't notice Expatman's post but have now seen it and taken notice of it. Very pertinent advice. Especialyy given the violent nature of the way one of my earlier cars was taken from me. I think I've spoken of it. Regarding the note from Paul, above .... yes, thanks for that. In fact I have recently had a personal message from another contributor, to whom I've replied, thanking him for his suggestion..... which was extremely similar to your's, Paul, concerning the possibility of some sort of "leg lift". Since receiving the suggestion I've formed one from one of my trouser belts. It's simply a leather type belt which at one end is formed (riveted) into a loop of sufficient size to get a shoe through (and with a small piece of leather riveted at the point where the join is in order to hold the loop "open" somewhat.) ---- and at the other end of the belt I've moved (riveted) the buckle part-way along the belt and used it to form another (adjustable) loop which the Mrs. can use as a handle to grasp the thing. It seems to work just fine and she will try it out a few more times before we decide whether go to the expense of a replacement car. It might not now be needed. I suppose, as has been pointed out, there will come a time when the Yeti has to go, but maybe it's a good idea to hang on to it if she can get by with the leg lifter. There is this dichotomy whereby I still like the car being higher from the ground but where she now finds that to be a problem and maybe the time will come when something happens to resolve it. But I hadn't thought of the leg lifter idea so thanks all round, fellas. By the way "Dichotomy" is word of ther day. 🙂

Hopefully this will be of use to others. Looks like a special tool required for the level plug ? Wonder if this would do?..... BGS - VAG Oil & Gearbox Drain Plug - M16 x 58 mm Spline (XZN) - Tamperpro - 4356 | eBay UK I'm not sure the above ebay item would be the correct size? ....might have to go for something like this......... 6pc 1/2" Tamper-Proof 12 Point Security Bit Socket VW & Audi Gearbox Drain Plug | eBay UK ** PLEASE NOTE ** The above info relates to my 2017 VRS TDI........Petrol model is maybe different?

My 2009 1.8 TSI exhaust broke earlier this year, just where the pipe joins the middle box, hunted around and the price for that was £700 plus, and a six month wait for the replacement section, could not wait that long as it is a used daily, for the whole system i was quoted £1500. Checked around the local custom exhaust fabricators and got the complete system replaced in stainless steel for £750, with ten year guarantee. As an aside looking for a new battery, no designation in the handbook of size physical or Ah needed, anybody got any ideas for this?

Hi Deleuiuly, Unfortunately, my problem returned shortly after, on the same day. However, on November 27th, the car went to the workshop and they updated it to version 1989. It worked well for a few days. On December 3rd, it stopped working again. The little world showed a red X. I contacted Skoda again and have a workshop appointment scheduled for December 15th. They told me that the factory sent them some kind of procedure. Meanwhile, the connection came back online on December 5th without any intervention from me or the workshop. My biggest concern is what will happen when the warranty expires? Will I have to pay to resolve these problems, which may or may not be the result of buggy updates? The Connect service is paid annually, at least here in Portugal it is; will I have to pay to resolve a problem that prevents me from using a prepaid service? Regarding the fuse, an image from the manual is attached. Note that it may not be the same in your car; mine has left-hand drive. Look in the manual for online service or something similar. Good luck!

Easiest option for Bluetooth is an adapter that goes in the fag lighter. It picks up your Bluetooth (from a phone say) and broadcasts it via radio, so you just tune the radio to the right frequency.

So I try to explain.. I start at the side of the sunglass box.. I go in with my hand and pull down, so the console "seperates". I marked it with number 1 on the picture.. So now there is a space and I can see the two black hooks.. number 2 I push them with a removal tool and the side will go down.. 3rd step are the black hooks on the side.. push them with a removal tool and it will come of.. The metal clips are not really holding the console.. its the 4 black hooks you have to release.. thats the trick..

On December 15th, I took the car to the repair shop as agreed, and since the problem wasn't manifesting itself, they sent me away without any intervention. On the 18th, the problem returned, and I'm once again without access to Skoda's backend.

I experienced the exact same thing, also have the PHEV. It started only recently, and does not happen every time. No idea what’s going on, I assumed a sensor glitch. Overall I’m disappointed with the electronic safety features. The car has engaged emergency brakes more than once, and created a dangerous situation for the cars behind me. The mobile app works only half the time. A pity, it’s otherwise a comfortable and fun ride.