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If that's your plan then go for it. It's a very simple and painless process from past experience but admittedly that was some time ago now since I last ran Linux. I have a 2017 Asus X555 (I think it is) that's now redundant but serviceable I was thinking of wiping the SSD and installing Linux on. Might be worthy of a topic in the Tech Shed for more input. By the way, I highly recommend upping your Vitamin D from around September when the days start getting shorter. I've done that for a couple of years now and IMO it definitely helps. Another tip is to ignore BST/ GMT clock changes. They always throw my circadian rhythm out of kilter. Not easy if you have fixed start times/ employed etc but I think we're both old enough now not to have to.

If its throwing a TPM 2.0 issue as a reason for not updating it might be worth checking the Bios to be certain it's not present if you haven't already. My desktop was saying the same and wouldn't update but I double checked the bios and found that it simply wasn't enabled by default and that was causing the issue. A quick change in the bios and it updated perfectly.

I think you’re worried about something not worth worrying about. Buy a new Octavia and enjoy it.

OK, just read most of the pump thread - that sounds like my issue 100% Once my Skoda dealership has diag'd it I'll submit my details and remedies Thanks

Cuz the RS is faster than the sound... 😱

No current lung infection - tick Recovered from medical procedure - tick Run out of excuses - tick So out for some light morning runs before the sun gets up and temperature gets too unbearable. I can't work out whether I was shamed or inspired to run again by my daughter in law getting up at 4 am on Christmas morning for a 25 km run and my uk great nephew participating in a Christmas morning parkrun in near zero temps.

Just wondering if anyone else's vehicle exhibits this symptom when moving the wheel slightly at stationary or low speeds? https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ZfCo42h5eEw The car is RHD and two Skoda dealers said it was a "characteristic" as other vehicles did the same, however mine started around 5K miles. Not getting much help from Škoda UK but I don’t believe Škoda engineers would sign off noises like that when moving the wheel. Cheers.

Manufacturer's 5 years, then it is downgraded in coverage, but still covers pretty much everything. Here in Spain I'm on 6th year of warranty currently.

Top banana thanks for the info. Ill keep this thread updated.

They’re a great wheel, the weight reduction compared to an OEM alloy is mad. I don’t have any negatives to say on them, sold them in the summer after having them for 4 years without any issue, the paint quality was very good on them as well.

Get it escalated from Customer Services to an actual VW / Skoda UK Executive member, Communications manager or whoever. A named person. They sometimes have no long term memory and wipe their brain or hard drive at the end of the day, but the vehicles with issues are real. If you had to get an Independent Engineers report and take them to a Small Claims court that is what some have to do. Denial and refusal is their normal behaviour. They try it for months until they can no longer. It can take a legal action to get their attention sometimes. They do not go to court to defend actions because an Employee would have to stand and give evidence, like how many Warranty claims, or faults rectified VW have had to address. Maybe we can have them be aware of this thread. PIETTRO PANARISI of SKODA UK might well get a we nudge. A good way to contact can be LINKEDIN. A cool dude like CRAIG WILLOUGHBY of SKODA & SEAT UK might give a toss about After Sales & Warranties.

All received.👍

@Dcode If they 'All do that', then those that do not must be faulty and not behaving as the engineers intended. Contacting Skoda UK is contacting the Contractor doing Customer Services. Technical knowledge is zero there unless escalated. The Master Tech at the Dealership needs to get in a VW Group Engineer if it is beyond him or her and the dealerships technicians. They can get your car off the the 'TECHNICAL DEPARTMENT' they like to refer to, to be diagnosed. Just as part of their continuation of R&D. I am sure the Dealer Principal would not accept his or her partner driving one of the Perks / Demonstrators making the noise.

Hello, Short update on ^^: With great support from VCTool guys, I've managed to restore Stock data set. I've also tried 2 more presets/options: #17 and #18, I can't say the sound is much better that Option #16, with stock speakers. All 3 options are generating B201200 DTC, so I've reverted to Stock audio for now. I've also been looking for alternatives and I've found the following option in Car Scanner PRO: 8. Sound processing preset (MIB3) This feature changes sound configuration to improve sound quality https://www.carscanner.info/coding-mqb/ Has anybody else tried it? Happy new year!

No, strangely enough I haven't been through all of those topics ... my enquiry was about the Octavia diesel, asking if they all had wet clutches, thinking that they were more reliable than dry ones ... which was my belief having read so many instances of dry clutch issues as opposed to the wet versions. I fully acknowledge that my information may be ill conceived and that DQ200's are now the more favoured option ... I simply wasn't aware of it. If so I stand corrected. It's just that wherever I look in the motoring press or online I kept seeing that wet is best and dry is, well, ... less best 😊

I spent some time trying to see evidence of the wet clutch being less than reliable .... and the dry clutch being the more reliable option and wherever I look I see that popular opinion dictates that the wet version holds up considerably better than the dry ones. Which is what I've long believed to be the case. Help me out. I'd like to see something a concrete.

Forfar Orchard Bank parking and EV chargers near the A90, KFC, McD,s, Marstons etc.. Getting busy lots of the time now & people sit waiting and get peed off and leave. This is since the Police Station has moved here and cars are getting plugged in and left for longer than the charging time required on DC and Tethered AC. Cars fully charged and blocking chargers or chargers cut out and no longer charging. Slow speeds now. Often the cars could be plugged in using their own cable on the AC chargers. But those can be fully occupied as NHS / Carers cars now get left here plugged in till the next shifts collect them. Sad really as there are Angus Council chargers near that the General Public can not use.

Hi, welcome. Unless absolutely necessary don't be tempted to spend any money on changes, "improvements" and "upgraders" other than as part of necessary repairs and components, systems or parts replacement as the car is a 10 year old used car (and a VW product at that) as you may need that money for other work. Drive the car for a good while in different conditions and weather to get used to it and find what might need doing and what you like and dislike on the car and what you have or might get used to. Concentrate on brakes, steering, suspension (all three include the tyres and safety electrics ( lights, horn, wiper, blower, etc.) and reflective number plates. Then it's on to whole car (not just engine) servicing and maintenance as required, or missed by previous owner(s). With particularly stop/start VW cars the state of charge and health of the 12v battery is very important so as not to upset the computer systems or they will throw up unexpected warnings, warning lights, unseen error codes and running issues. Even if the headlights seem bright enough and well, well, before the engine hesitates to start the battery could be low enough in charge to upset the computer systems, plenty of posts and threads for all models on Briskoda about this problem. Sometimes just driving the car isn't enough to sufficiently recharge the battery and an appropriate battery charger maintainer is needed following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and charger maintainer instructions. A very long low and slow recharge with a charger of 2-amps to 5-amps to take the battery to 100% charged is best even if it takes two or more sessions to do this. The low priced charger maintainers from the likes of Aldi or Lidl are fine for this. If you don't have the paper printed version of the car's 'Owner's Manual' then a free VWŠkoda pdf version is available from the Škoda Owner's Manuals website, reading it and referring to it can save you costly visits to garages, mechanics and auto-electricians and you will know more about the car than some long term owners. HTH. Škoda Owner's Manuals website - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

@nt16 Sadly it looks like your correct, I’ll see if I can find the correct thread 👍

@Trickiejohn looks like you might have posted in the wrong thread.

You can get tents that attach to the open tailgate, so you can easily access the vehicle contents. Or just go for for a regular tent in a roof box. There's all manner of pop-up versions that don't require an afternoon of puzzling over faded instructions. Although they may require that same afternoon to get the buggers folded away!

I can't see anything in the wiring diagrams for a BMN that calls itself "Sensor reference voltage A" unfortunately. There are various 5V outputs from engine ECU to various individual sensors, and one that goes to two via a splice in the loom, G581 Position sensor for charge air pressure actuator and G212, the potentiometer of the EGR valve, both coming from pin 26 of the ECU, white/yellow wires to both sensors. No idea if this is the specific supply that the fault code is referring to, or whether it is all of the 5V power outputs from ECU. Not much help, sorry.

Your roof will not collapse and crush you, even if the vehicle rolls and lands on its roof. Therefore it can take a lot more load than 75Kg. The 75Kg limit is about not raising the vehicle's overall centre of gravity too much for handling to be adversely affected when in motion.

Yeah maybe I will change the door seal and see also looking for change the seal of the back door and the one between the car and the hardtop . Also I want put some alloy wheels but what ET ?

Michelin Primacy 4 in 16 or 17 " are damn pathetic in damp, wet or cold. They are fitted to lots of PHEV / BEV,s from Stellantis & others. Poor traction / friction so better range from the cars. Poor performance. I have 4 stored with 100 miles on them, taken off iin 2020as hopeless. 205/45 R17. Free to anyone that wants rubbish tyres. As to less snow, maybe not just down south, but up north there is plenty frosts, and ice, and the snow is coming next week.

Picked up early October. Mileage is currently at 3198.

Hi dobs, Welcome to the forum ☺️

On the Elroq at least in the UK, the wheels don't have TPMS afaik, I think they use the wheel speed sensor in the hub to detect speed variances with the wheels to detect flat tyres. So it does help somewhat making replacement wheels a bit cheaper as no need to buy the sensors.

Hi Milan, Welcome to the forums 🙂

@pullover My 2021 MG5 EV Exclusive is really good, rock steady & comfortable on All-season tyres, well built and nice and simple controls. I do not miss it not being connected to an App & a Smart phone. Fantastic heating / ac & deicing / demisting.

Ad. 1 I don't have any update for your unit. Ad. 2 - yes, it is, fortunately in SWING units Bluetooth is NOT covered with FEC/SWaP codes so just removal of Component Protection and adding a microphone is enough.

Hi and welcome to the forum! I’d suggest moving the discussion to your other thread in the Octavia section, As you’ll get better input from more users in the issues you’re having there than here 🙃

Yes, the 12V battery has been tested. The battery was also replaced with a new one this spring. In addition to the battery, all basic things have been checked. A friend with ODIS also re-coded the car again to be sure, but it did not change anything. Im out of ideas.

As you know, Skodas official timing belt replacement interval for this engine has been extended. I own a 20 plate 1.5tsi SEL dsg, mine has now covered 45k, I'll probably change mine somewhere between 8 to 10 years old, if I still have it then, probably at the same time change the dsg and mechatronic oil, too. Even though it's the sealed for life dq200 box. I'm just considering whether to put in 0w 20, 5w 20 or 0w 30 oil in next, now it's out of manufacturers warranty. May go for 0w 30, instead of the recommended 0w 20, mainly because I think it'll probably provide better engine protection long term.

Roof load is all about what's safe to drive with up there. Presumably no one will be in the tent when mobile.

I believe the Karoq has a fairly weedy 75kg roof load. Given the tent weighs 55kg, that leaves 20kg for the occupants. Also raised rails are a potential issue. Thule has a compatibility check on their web site & they rule the Karoq out.

At the very least, the battery is failing. Worth giving it a full charge, if possible, to confirm condition.

What weight is involved as far as the equipment going up on the bars then the added weight of a person?

Have you had a read of the water pump thread?: Gaz

Coincidentally, this afternoon the dealership contacted me. They informed me that they have an internal notice stating that they are aware of the issue and are working on an update for the MIB/ICAS3. They will let me know when it is ready to be installed. I will inform you when I have more details.

What are all the Skoda approved wheel sizes for the vehicle? These will be listed in the car's CoC (Certificate of Conformity). There might be a white label on the car listing the tyre pressures for all of the Skoda approved wheel sizes. 235/55R19 and 255/50R19 are listed in the Elroq owner's manual as suitable for snow chains. The VW iD Buzz uses 18" wheels for some models, ie. 235/60R18 8Jx18 ET45 front and 255/55R18 8.5Jx18 ET56 rear. Like the Elroq, the iD Buzz also uses a 170PS electric motor for its entry level model/s. On the iD Buzz, 8Jx18 ET45 5/112 57.1 and 8.5Jx18 ET56 5/112 57.1 are available as steel rims and maybe alloy rims. They might also fit the Elroq, but you would have to check. Even if they both fitted, it's possible that a 255/55R18 8.5Jx18 ET56 rear wheel (from the iD Buzz) might not have enough inside clearance on the inside for snow chains, but again you would have to check. Alcar 9383 8Jx18 ET45 5/112 57.1 steel rim 13.26 kg Alcar 9384 8.5Jx18 ET56 5/112 57.1 steel rim 13.99 kg Continental AllSeasonContact2 235/60R18 103T (Euro label B B 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m141b0s12739p220593/Continental_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Continental_Conti_All_Season_Contact_2_235_60_R18_103T_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Continental AllSeasonContact2 255/55R18 105T (Euro label B B 71dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m141b0s12750p221960/Continental_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Continental_Conti_All_Season_Contact_2_255_55_R18_105T_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB

Hi. I had this intermittently and just bought the bypass kit from aliexpress. Cost about £30 and took about an hour to install. A bit fiddly but not too bad. Check carefully the part number, as there are two for the white top gearbox where the part number is the same except for one doesnt have an A at the end. Im pretty sure the one without A is the one you need. This is the exact one I bought: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009808126126.html Have a play with the plugs before you install so you can work out how they release, and get yourself some decent trim removal tools. You will also need Torx 10 and Torx 8 screwdrivers (I think) From memory this was the process: Ignition on and shift to N. Ignition off as much as you can. Remove trim from around gear stick (The trim with the buttons including parking brake etc) Push out from this trim the small surround for the gear stick Disconnect all wires from these trims and wiggle the larger trim off to give more access, then pull the small trim up until the leather gaiter is inside out. Pull up mounting for 12v socket/USB and disconnect all wires (This was quite tricky as every plug seems to have a different catch system) undo 2x torx 10 screws holding in "ashtray" and remove. Undo the interior light wire from this or I just tucked it to one side and left it hanging. I had to rip out some bits of foam from around the top of the gearbox for access. I just placed these back in place once done. Using a long thing screwdriver push the blue tab on the connector just in front on the left of the gearbox top to release the original plug. Then contort fingers in about 20 directions to connect the new plug and the existing into the bypass kit. Undo 3x Torx 8 screws on top of the white plastic and fit switch using supplied longer screws. Loosen off the two screws in the slider slots on the new switch Shift to P Pull switch hard against the gearstick shaft and tighten up the two slider screws Move from N to P a couple of times to check operation. You should hear the relay clicking in the fusebox. DON'T be tempted to turn the ignition on, as you will get a whole host of errors as all the buttons are disconnected. They clear once all reconnected but did make me panic a bit! Refit all the trim panels in the reverse order of above making sure wires are tucked out the way of the trim clips etc. Start car and operate park brake on and off a few times to clear any errors. Shift to P and make sure its happy! Unfortunately I didnt take any pictures as I was doing it. I might do whenever I work on the car in future so that I can post here to help others. Also while you are in there might be worth installing the start stop memory module. Well worth it in my opinion. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009424334938.html

You can use some comparation tool like beyond compare and see only the changes that I did for the additional sun 🥂 adpmap-09-5Q0-937-084-DD_TMBJG7NU2K2049969-20251210-2106.txt.CSV

Yes ironically this was a lease vehicle and was due to have been returned when the fault occurred. It was on an informal PCH extension as going back ~Feb 2026 now since it was a good deal. And for us there ends the letter to the Petrol engine after 3 Octavias as we move into EVs now. Been good cars apart from this hiccup which I'll put down to messing with a petrol engine rather than going full EV (wife's MG5 is so much nicer to drive even than a DSG and rock solid so far)

Thanks for confirming. Would you mind if I ask how old your car is and mileage? The car has been to two different dealers with the same outcome “they all do it” but no attempt to isolate the component. To be fair the vehicles in both dealers did exhibit this noise but it still does not seem right - especially since mine was silent until reaching around 5k mikes. I contacted Skoda UK sided who the dealers opinion and were unwilling to escalate further. I submitted a complaint to VWFS as the car was purchased on a PCP arrangement, still no response since 17 November. Next step is motor ombudsman but for now I am trying to find out if others have noticed this. I posted this on Reddit and YouTube - both have had thousands of views but no one has confirmed their cars have this issue, so I am assuming this is not a widespread problem or “characteristic”, you are the only person that has confirmed they do not have this problem. I did some basic diagnostics and the noise can be felt through the tie rod ends on both sides but the noise is coming from the steering rack area, however I have not gone any further as I don’t want to tamper with anything due to it being under warranty.

Nope. Ours doesn't do that. If you're not happy with the diagnosis of your dealership then go to another for a second opinion or ask your service guy to go to another Elroq and see if that one does it.

Here's the message I sent to him: Hello Lionel, For the E85 flex-fuel engine mapping, everything is perfect so far. However, on the DQ250 DSG6, I'm experiencing jerking during gear changes under full load. It seems like the clutch pressure builds up too quickly or the shift time is a bit short. Could you slightly smooth out the K1/K2 engagement ramp and lengthen the WOT transition time a little? Before the remap, it was very smooth, so I think it's just a minor calibration adjustment. Best regards, Hichem

They are twice a year on the official release as per your weeks. November and June but the files are produced before that then if you are lucky the brands website will show them. Vag and their map production suppliers Here Maps (mib1, mib2 high, mib3) and Tom Tom (mib2 standard) now have their map production streamlined. They have to have it streamlined for the monthly mib3 connected services update. Thus I believe why we saw the November releases months ago way before November. They sat in the fileservers but not wrapped in a web page. It's just how it is now except at some stage mib2 might not be supported but we'll see.

With observations, I'm ashamed to say that having driven our 85 Edition for 11k miles over the past 9 months, I only discovered this weekend how to wash the rear view camera ☹️

They are metal workers ''by experience" and not Mechanical Engineers, you are not present when they work thus the diameter isn't proper, the welding work is not good etc. When you discover the mistake? On the road (poor performance, high fuel consumption) and when you lift the car for other cause and you see what they have done.