Leaderboard

I would change the front flexi hoses first. Its not unknown for them to collapse internally especially if someone has used a brake hose clamp at some time. It will cause brake fluid restriction as there could be an internal bulge. Fairly cheap and easy to do. If it doesn't improve then take it further. Maybe second hand abs/hydraulic unit Alasdair

I wouldnt use second hand flexi etc but have been using second hand calipers/abs units etc for years. They can fail yes but so can any original ones fitted. I always fit new brake master cylinders and as for flexi hoses for all the cost its cheaper to replace them instead of paying £80/hour or more for someone to remove them and check them and then tell you they need replaced anyway. Last pair I bought cost £30 Alasdair

I’m going to order a spare soon, if you find it, on top should have a letter inscribed and then google around for that (think eBay’s a good place) Kind renders them pointless as you can buy spares, someone who wants your wheels and knows it’s genuine can just carry around the spares and job done but tbh don’t think I allot theft is a thing now as all cars have them, not like years ago when they were rare eBay UKSkoda Locking Wheel Nut Master Security Key Match Service...Skoda Locking Wheel Nut Key Match Service.

Hey guys, This problem was finally fixed by the dealership, just wanted to share an update in case it helps someone else going through the same issue. So, as I said in the original post, I’ve been dealing for a while with a problem on my Škoda Kamiq 1.0 TSI DSG where the Start/Stop would activate, the engine would shut down, and then immediately restart (almost instantly). Car stops → Start/Stop activates Engine shuts down Engine restarts immediately (almost instantly) No warnings, no error messages Happens every single time, even with engine warm and no electrical load The dealeship went through a long diagnostic process, replacing the 12v (2 times) and auxiliary battery, to no avail. After getting to the point where they have to ask Skoda for info and ONE MONTH later, the issue was finally resolved. I didn’t get a detailed technical explanation (typical…), but based on what was being investigated and how the system behaved, the most likely cause was related to the vacuum system. Modern engines rely on vacuum (especially for brake assist). When the engine shuts down, the system checks if vacuum is stable. If there’s a leak or instability (e.g. vacuum hose / check valve), the car can: shut the engine off detect vacuum drop immediately restart the engine Ask your workshop to check the vacuum system early in the process! This might save you a lot of time, instead of going through batteries and basic checks first (like I did). Hope this helps someone 👍 (and sorry for the GPT assisted post)

I did wonder whether there was a new one for that. Wonder if it includes the missing logos... bet it doesn't. As you know for mib2 I do the graphic import you cant do in mib3 to in fill for missing. That radio station logo in fill method I might have mentioned previously. In fill method but not for mib3: https://media.info/radio/stations/times-radio/logo-for-vw That web site has all the logos so for the odd missing few you can in fill what are missing.

Col, "I'll do this job my usual way; the hard way?" Just remember... when removing the springs...they have been compressed, & undoing the large nut holding then in place will release the spring rapidly. Make sure you compress them safely, then undo the nut. Always adjust the spring compressors evenly and slowly.

with only 34k on the clock can't imagine they need changing have 270k on mine still on the orig.

Almost EDL (electronic diff lock) covers that, as you say, it detects driven wheel slip and applies light braking pressure to transfer torque to the side with traction. XDS and XDS+ are more advanced with the + version is more refined and coping with more scenarios. Rather than reacting to wheel spin, it's looking for understeer and applies braking forces to the inside wheels to counteract it. It's trying to emulate torque vectoring but can only remove torque from the inner wheels rather than actively adding torque to the outer wheels as per a proper AWD system.

@ords good point. Is that something else to worry about? Or maybe it wasn't flooded and it just wouldn't start because of the fuel leak? RAC man got it started by holding down accelerator whilst turning on ignition

This is a heads up to fellow Karoq owners with regard to the effect of Speed Bump impact on the Karoq suspension. I recently had new front tyres fitted to my Karoq, the wheel alignment checked and adjusted, and the printout provided recorded Front Camber, Castor and Toe and Rear Camber and Toe, all within manufacturer's specification. One week later the Karoq was driven by a 3rd party. The next day evidence came to light of the vehicle being driven over four speed bumps on a 30 mph stretch of road at speeds of 40 to 45 mph. I asked my local Skoda dealer to perform an alignment check as, having just fitted two new tyres, I wanted to be sure the wheel alignment had not been affected. The results are shown below. I was very alarmed by the camber measurements, I thought it would just be the toe that might be out. To fix the front and rear camber was 4 hours work, as the front subframe had to lowered, fitted with new bolts and then adjusted, at the rear it required the lower suspension arms to be adjusted. Front camber is adjusted by eccentric bolts which move the subframe slightly. The rear camber is again an eccentric bolt that moves the lower arm. Then the electronics required recalibration; this is the front radar, parking sensors and reversing camera, so that the emergency collision avoidance system worked correctly. I am now much more cautious about speed bumps, I won’t be going any quicker than 20mph over them in future.

I finally did mine a few days ago. No real problems - I did have to log back in, but for some reason login kept failing immediately afterwards, but was successful the next day. My virtual cockpit and mood lighting changed back to default so I had to change them back to how I'd set them up previously. Also, the following day it randomly asked me for my PIN, even though I had it turned off previously. I entered the PIN and changed the setting back to 'don't ask for PIN' and it's been OK since. Other than those fairly minor niggles I haven't had any problems.

Those things are commonly known as widow makers!!

That is a cautionary tale indeed. Thanks for writing. It's a reminder that the Karoq is a highway car, not some robust off-roader. Just out of curiosity, who was the culprit? (Not expecting anyone to be named, but was it someone in the motor trade, or what?) And how did you get evidence of the speed over the humps? Dash cam?

Thank you, new to Skoda and new to forums so appreciate your responce. I've borrowed a 'CTEK' charger and I'm happy to leave as long as it needs - so fingers crossed it should get 100% charge (If it is still capable!). Or should I try the "Reond" setting? 🤷‍♂️ I shall sit and read the attachment - thank you - with a cuppa. What's really frustrating is that it's just had a (50K)Oil/pollen service & MOT!!! Not so sure they checked the battery. I think - according to the Skoda website - battery check should have been done. Anyway not at all happy, but given that it's 6 years old and I haven't treated it 'correctly' I may just have to bite the bullet and buy new - and start a proper regular charge regime !!!! Fingers crossed. I may even update later if all goes well. 🤞🏻 Cheers nta16 👍🏻

Seems to be..

A good garage will have ways of checking for possible flexi-hose issues, most would just change them as a parts cannon and revenue and profit procedure. When it's brakes -THE most important part of any vehicle - then I'm not sure I would want to use s/h parts unless I fully knew the source and history of the part and even then you only really know if you owned the source car - but others seem happy to use s/h parts with no issues. Then again I've known someone use s/h seatbelts (not from modern VWs) from a crashed vehicle, we joked thery might be red to save cleaning the blood off.

Have read its a fairly common fault hence why they have a repair kit on the shelf. Cant see it being classed as wear and tear (more of a manufacturing defect) but maybe check with garage that gave you warranty first as if its fixed by someone else they may say warranty invalid. Years ago had a radiator fail 2 days after buying car and had to be fixed elsewhere as we were away from home. When I tried to claim from garage they said that unless they did the repair they werent liabel. Alasdair

@Warrior193 so mechanic got to the fuel rail and yes one bolt sheared off and two loose with some seals damaged. He has never heard of it before and his VW parts seller has never heard of it BUT then they have this whole repair kit on the shelf which suggests (like you are well aware) that it's a known problem. Unfortunately he said it was really difficult to get to and will have to charge 3 hours Labour in total. ☹️ Will try the warranty though although they might say normal wear and tear. Going to try and complain to VW group given the potential risk of fire - did you report yours to anyone? Not that it would probably do anything! I'm trying to find the US recall that i keep see being mentioned about this issue. Can only find something related to VW Jettas. EDIT. I found it: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCRIT-20V648-7026.pdf All skoda jettas (octavias basically) with a 1.4 TSI engine made between 2016 and 2018 all recalled. Unbelievable!!

The garage will have looked at flexi hoses for perishing and leaks/kinks but as far as I know there is no way of checking if internal is slightly blocked apart from replacing. Get them to check also any metal brake lines that may have been damaged by something hitting them on the road . Folks put there old car off the road in winter and had to be winched out. I checked underneath once they got it home and one of the front metal pipes was slightly dented which caused slight uneven braking. It doesnt take much to cause an imbalance. Alasdair

A new data base for MIB2 v1.10.64 of 01.12.2025

Absolutley agree firt hoses then the rest, Get the p/n of the abs unit and look online for second hand unit but be aware that before swapping the module you will need to save the long coding of the original module, make sure that the garage does that otherwise you will lose it and is quite hard to deduce the long coding, (is a nuber who summarize all the option in the car like brake discs sike part of the vin number and many other things).

😊

We replaced our previous Yeti diesel's with Bilsteins as well which have a well earned reputation. To be honest they didn't make much difference on our similar Yorkshire roads - more about the Yeti on 17 inch wheels being crashy over bad roads than the shocks themselves. Our latest 67 plate (final ?) Yeti is the same on 17s, so we got some 16s on all season tyres to try over the winter, and it has definitely helped by "20%" around here. Less crashing into and over broken surfaces.

Hi, Thanks so much for your welcome reply @Carlodiesel Much appreciated. Bilstein & Munroe are names I've known forever. In order to save lots of time I'm considering buying complete units to simply bolt into place if I can buy either Bilstein or Monroe? I found complete units on eBay under GH-Parts @ £499 the pair which looks expensive. Whilst I'm working on the suspension I'll look at the associated rubber bushes too. I'm keen to keep my lovely Yeti for as long as possible; I never want to own either an hybrid or full EV; I'm sure with care my Yeti will outlast an EV made today. 10 years old with only 34,000 miles on the clock; it's due for its second cambelt and another brake fluid change too. It's going to hurt my pocket this year but money well spent. Kind regards, Col.

It’s in the local independent garage today to have the suspension repaired and they are also replacing the rear disks and pads for me. I was going to do the brakes myself but it will be infinitely quicker for them to do them while they have it on the ramp. Fingers crossed the suspension isn’t anything too major!

Checked today and it's dropped to just below the low level. Might need some further investigation with a torch I think.

So Bigeater, has moved on from the Remus exhaust, he's got a new one from Cobra which I haven't heard yet. However the Remus one was one of the best I heard as it wasnt too loud, the setup was a trackslag decat dp into a non resonator section into the Remus axle back section, nice deep tone.

I've used many fuel additives: Bardhal BDC, ProTec, Castrol diesel additive, Archoil 6900 and Oilsyn Power DNA, and even 2T ashless oil in my old pump duse diesel :D . In my head, Archoi and Oilsyn seems to quite the engine and make the DPF regenerations less often, but again this is in my head.. 🤓 I've also had good results with Archoil 6400 on a car with blocked DPF due to too many short journeys. It seems to increase the exhaust temperature and actually work in such cases, but I wouldn't use it if there are no DPF issues.

Yep, had something similar happen recently. Was a rear door lock actuator that had failed. All the other doors would lock ok except one so every time the speed went past the limit it would try and lock again. Also meant locking when leaving the car had to be done manually using the child lock. Replaced the door lock mechanism and was fine after that.

Yes, if you’ve got a Mk3.5 vRS 230, you do not have the VAQ differential. In answer to your other question - no, not really. In most FWD vehicles, the “open differential” is part of the transmission. This is generally considered a “transaxle” - where the transmission, differential and axle are combined. This, of course, means that they all share the same fluid - so when your DQ250 has an oil change (and the filter is changed too!), this covers your “differential” service. There are exceptions, but generally most modern Euro/Japanese FWD vehicles use this style of setup. There is one fun thing though - XDS. It stands for Cross Differential System and is part of the ESP. Basically, when it detects a wheel spinning, it will apply the brake to that wheel, sort of emulating an LSD. In my experience it’s not a great system, but it’s definitely better than nothing - it does a reasonably good job of maintaining traction in under steering scenarios, too. My advice would be to find a reputable VAG Indie near you, and stick with them. You couldn’t pay me to take my car to a main dealer service centre, or take anything a main dealer service advisor says as gospel. I’m sure there are exceptions, but as on other posts, I have been stung too many times - by Škoda, SEAT, Ford and BMW. I’ve no idea why your dealer is telling you there is a differential service to be done. Your car does not have one, and even then, it is all part of the same gearbox service. The DQ250 wants doing every 40,000 miles, and needs the fluid changed as well as the filter replaced. This is not an official VW service item, so many dealers don’t bother with it.

Hello Nigel, Thank you for your response. No updates were done to the car and scanner between the first and second try. First and second try only were a few hours apart. I used my iPhone paired with a Vgate iCar Pro 2S adapter. The phone had plenty of battery and the car had just completed a 30-minute motorway drive before I started coding. When performing the coding, the bonnet was open, the lights were off, the parking brake was engaged, the car was in Park, and the ignition was on. I also contacted the CarScanner developer and received a short reply stating that “this coding doesn't turn it on or off, it just enables or disables the menu item.” From that explanation I understand the following: the coding only controls whether the Adaptive Lane Assist option is visible in the infotainment system, while the actual adaptive behaviour is controlled by the setting in the infotainment itself. In other words, the infotainment menu item is what actually switches the adaptive behaviour on or off. My current theory is that the camera module simply remembers the last active state. If Adaptive Lane Assist is enabled in the infotainment and the coding is then reverted (which removes the menu), the camera may still retain the last state it was set to, in this case 'adaptive mode'. That could explain why the menu disappears after restoring the coding, while the steering behaviour still appears adaptive. It is not really a problem in practice. When I untick the Adaptive Lane Assist checkbox in the infotainment menu, the system switches back to the normal Lane Assist behaviour. Perhaps on longer motorway drives I might even start to appreciate the adaptive behaviour more, since it does seem to require fewer small steering corrections. Based on the explanation from the developer, the reasoning above seems plausible to me, but it might also be completely wrong. I am definitely not an expert, so my apologies in advance if my understanding is incorrect ;) Cheers

Totally, totally agree about the annoyance. Good that you took the car in so early, many/most leave it to the last minute on MoTs. You know the brakes wont totally fail on this. The complexities also add to safety (in real emergencies, hopefully not caused by drivers' reliance on them). Most people want the benefits of these systems and the likes of VW will see "revenue streams" from them. A fail at 55k-miles/8-years I think is just bad luck based on what I've not seen about this on here, I do give VW their due when they deserve it and unless others know better I think the part failure particularly at this point is an exception.

Thanks Warrior. Works the same on the Mk 4

Personally, I'd suggest getting a second opinion from a brake specialist.

BILSTEIN Munroe or SACHS Also consider the coil springs at the same time. Check the Top strut mounts as well, they sometimes go graunchy. Often found on ebay at a better price. Always check for a better deal. If you do it yourself, you will need a spring compressor. Approx. £16pr

Probably not - although there is a message flashed up on my Octavia's screen if the throttle is touched while starting engine.

My understandin is that unless you know it or the housing you shouldn't need to recalibrate it, but I'm definately no expert!! For interest do you have hte two lug holes to insert screwdriver for releasing the ACC cover or like me with no holes and stuck on how to remove it!

Hi , It's all sorted out by the newest release of the system setup, by Skoda.

Hi, welcome. If you have not already seen it among all the other subjects and forums on this site there is a section for Scala. - Škoda Scala - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/384-%C5%A1koda-scala/

Car went in today. Battery drop test suggests it’s a bit degraded but still more than capable of doing the important things so will keep my £265 for now. Stop start isn’t essential. Thanks all

It does warn about setting changes, had absolutely no issues with it, just needs a few settings tweaks afterwards. The sky is always falling in, especially on FB , being the very worst echo chamber of the painfully uninformed 🤦

Okay, so that's the order placed today. Superb Estate L&K 2.0 TSI 265PS 4x4 DSG Graphite Grey metallic 19" Veritate Silver wheels 5yr / 100k extended warranty Pano roof Family Package Rubber mats Stainless steel door sill covers Front & rear hard-wired dashcams I will separately order 17" rims for my winter tyres and a pair of snow chains for the Alpine skiing holidays, ski holder bag and rubber boot floor mat to contain the meltwater from the boots and skis which otherwise stink out the cabin from the carpet getting saturated. I don't use the HUD because it makes me feel sick. Scheduled for collection in March 2026 for the new registration. We chose the black interior because, after seeing the cognac, it wasn't quite our thing. The sunroof and cream / white headliner on the L&K model brightens up the cabin. We thought the cabin was very nice and we couldn't believe the space. We test drove a TSI Sportline 265 4x4 as a proxy to gauge the engine and gearbox. It was good but, as a few others have mentioned, the 19" rims do create more tyre noise which seeps into the cabin. However, we have the 17" dowdy rims for the winter months which at least will offer a more supple ride and quieter cabin even if they look grim on the car - but then winter in Scotland means mud and salt splattered on the grey paintwork anyway. Very happy thus far and we will update the forum as and when we have news. Thank you to everyone on here so far for your advice and guidance. David

The problem for MY24 was a change in EU legislation for data protection which meant all VAG cars had OBD access to coding restricted. Not even the dealers can get in.