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Added some vinyl stripes on the side and fitted front splitter

Hope not as quick google and acccording to AI theres over 2.5 million of EA211 outhere. No wonder they dont want a recall. It would take years and cost a fortune Alasdair

Gandalf has gone up a notch today - up to Stage 3. 297 kw 550 Nm at the wheels power. Not bad for a FWD Superb 220. Not flex fuel....yet. More info here.

links have been add to head post

Read that the recall in states didnt cover fabia as they dont sell them there. Its the usual problem. I reckon car manufacturers work out the cost of recall and the cost to them in legal cases and choose the lowest. Probably why recall in the states and not uk as they seem more prone to sue for a lot more money. Either way its a serious defect and should be recalled and fixed for free. Alasdair

The grounds that DVSA gave me for their findings was that there was no ignition source present at the time of my incident! The starter motor has commutator, brush gear and a solenoid with switch contacts, all of which can produce sparking. No actual ignition source is necessary if the vehicle is in motion if/when this fuel rail failure occurs - autoignition temperature of petrol is around 250-280 deg. C, diesel is lower at 210 deg. C - Guess the name of at least two items in engine bay that run temperatures considerably higher than that.

Not sure of full title for the North America report - but it did result in a vehicle recall over there - that was 24Gi. The reply I got from DVSA did state that they had previously investigated a number of these fuel rail faults with the 'assistance of the manufacturer'

I reported my failure to DVSA - they replied that they did not regard this failure incident to constitute a fire risk! I had fairly high quantity of fuel streaming down the front of the engine.

Those things are commonly known as widow makers!!

I know I hate using them. I have another twin set that I use in conjunction with them but still scary even with 5 . Have managed to do quite a few over the years but worse was old toyota people carrier that weighed about 2 ton so front springs were massive. I just take my time and make sure each one is tightened slowly and equally and I do them outside making sure I am as far away from them as possible. If I am fitting new shocks and springs I quite often throw a few quid to local garage and get them to assemble them. Alasdair

Probably all 4 cylinder EA211 engines are affected?

I can confirm. Had old volvo with small pin hole in fuel return. Stink of petrol was awful. Had car running to see where leak was and woosh small fireball. Pin hole was hitting manifold. Lucky was on the return and only enough to cause flash fire and had co2 extinguisher handy although eye brows took a while to recover. Any petrol leak is in my opinion very serious as vapours tend to build up especially when car is sitting. Also an immediate MOT fail and immediate prohibiton from driving. Read the Mk2 was recalled for fuel leak but havent seen any for the mk3 Alasdair

I'll see if I can recover the US fault report number.

I have been using KYB shocks and springs for years and they seem to last well. I would replace top mounts while your at it and bump stops etc as well. Its not my favourite job at all. As for spring compressors I have a triple set but also add another two just in case. My local garage used to do them for a tenner each(cash) they have a hydraulic compressor that takes minutes. The spring compressors I have a locking mechanism so they cant come off Think mine were made by Laser. Alasdair

Have read its a fairly common fault hence why they have a repair kit on the shelf. Cant see it being classed as wear and tear (more of a manufacturing defect) but maybe check with garage that gave you warranty first as if its fixed by someone else they may say warranty invalid. Years ago had a radiator fail 2 days after buying car and had to be fixed elsewhere as we were away from home. When I tried to claim from garage they said that unless they did the repair they werent liabel. Alasdair

# ECE 2026.02 29.1 Gb version":{"major":1167921,"minor":25381,"build":0},...,"catalog_version":42 251H1 Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P169_EU_202610_offline_update.zip Files inside: 2026.01.30 Downloadable: 2026.02.13 Published: 2026.03.19 # ROW 2026.02 # Asia 4.2 Gb Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P169_ASIA_202612_Offline_Update.zip # Australia 1.9 Gb version:{"major":1167921,"minor":25381,"build":0} 251H0 Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P169_AUS_202612_Offline_Update.zip # Chile 503 Mb Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P169_CHILE_202612_Offline_Update.zip # India 7.8 Gb Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P169_INDIA_202612_Offline_Update.zip # Israel 245 Mb Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P169_ISR_202612_Offline_Update.zip # North Africa 1.5 Gb Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P169_NA_202612_Offline_Update.zip # Turkey 21 Gb Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P169_TUR_202612_Offline_Update.zip # Gulf Region 2.9 Gb Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P169_MRM3_AGCC_202612_Offline_Update.zip # South Africa 1.5 Gb Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P169_SA_202612_Offline_Update.zip # South America 8.3 Gb Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P169_MRM4_SAM_202612_Offline_Update.zip ======= coverage ======= # Gulf Region Bahrain, Jordan, Kazakhstan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Oman, Qatar, Russia, Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates # South Africa Botswana, Lesotho, Mozambique, Namibia, Reunion, South Africa, Swaziland, Zimbabwe # South America Argentina, Bahamas, Brazil, Colombia, Costa Rica, French Guiana, Guadeloupe, Martinique, Mexico, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Puerto Rico, Uruguay, Venezuela Previous threads: -> 2025.02-06 -> 2024.06

Colourful end to the day.........

The only way I can monitor the charging current from the alternator is by using VCDS, after starting, it charges at a fairly good lick, can't quite remember now, but ~ 16/20A?, but only for a few minutes...... even if the battery is well below its 85% SOC, it then just trickle charges at around, again I think, 1 to 2A or so at a terminal voltage of 13.5/13.6V, I presume this is in the interest of fuel savings since the BMS can and does use variable voltage charging right up to almost 15V which would certainly force more amps into the battery to get its SOC up relatively quickly. Modern Alternators give fantastic output though, even at idling revs, at idling, with headlights on full beam, HRS on, and fan speed on 3 (normally 2) the alternator will still charge the battery, in effect, this means, that the battery will never discharge while the engine is running, even if only idling.

@hubrad - I forgot the warning about 'coding' as with all computer data entries (one-finger typing) it has to be correct. A technical chap a member here had a lot of trouble after having a new battery fitted for about a year IIRC(?) and that was because though he could have done it he left the battery 'coding' to a professional auto-electrician to discover when doing the following battery replacement 'coding' that the professional auto-electrician had entered 7 Ah instead of 70 Ah. Very poor programing on VW's part that an error like this should be possible but I find VW's (and others) programing parameters can be wide which is why owner/drivers can notice when there's something up when the computer don't, or don't report an error anyway. Also forgot, some members are willing to offer using their scan tools for other members, such as 'coding' a battery, printing off and/or deleting error codes and more (I offered but don't have a VCDS, never got a reply, if you were nearer we could plug the machine in and you could see what's available to see, sound the car horn remotely to test communication). See here. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

I got it fitted at last and works perfectly I can confirm the JXY gearbox fits a BSW engine and pulls through the gears very well, got nice bottom end torque and a longer overdrive in 5th. for those who have a BSW engine and looking for a compatible gearbox I can confirm JXY and JXZ fit. So from my understanding looking online the JXY gearbox is more of a sports feel so higher rpm and JXZ gearbox is more low end high torque ideal for toeing and under load.

@Johngerard is the man for those sort of details. Sorry, I don't know and/or can't remember about the date being in the software, the geeky legacy VCDS system isn't my cup of Darjeeling, the printout I posted earlier in this thread from OBDEleven shows the date and time at that point but if that remains I don't know. The battery system is doing a counter up for, possibly premature, how long and what been happening to the battery to do what it thinks is best with it (and when ever has a computer program been wrong). Some people enter the date they change the battery as the redundant "Battery serial number" (perhaps(?) a VW thing to blame the battery supplier for VW errors with charging programing and hardware). The date the battery is installed only tells you a very limited amount of information, there are so many variables including the users of the vehicle wasteful, or not, use of the electricity (put a coin meter on it and they'd be less wasteful, generally) Two schools of thought on that, well three I suppose, one is yes you MUST 'code' a new battery in or HAL9000 will take your first born, another that it doesn't matter if you change battery like for like (technology type, Ah) some have said they have done this and everything has been fine. Whether the new battery life is shorten may takes x-years to really discover. Third is the one I go with - probably best to get the new battery 'coded' in but I don't see it as an absolute instant panic emergency at very exact moment the new battery is fitted, but as soon as (reasonably) possible after. You've got a 2015 VW so you already have high levels of computer electronic "aids" and "assists", nothing like as much as near later years to now but more than enough (or perhaps needed?).

As a point of reference this is from the VW Sharan so interesting to see that the values do not need to be bang on 0.00 degrees.

The last service kit I got for one of those was from Autobella (they are used on some Fiat 850's), about £28 or so.

Hi, yes of course, I will. Always happy to share information

Why do people post pictures like this! Now my bank account is going to take a hit trying to replicate this! Would love a full list of mods. It looks awesome!

Oof - lovely! #ERROR <SIGNATUREOUTOFDATE>

That is bizarre as I checked when you last posted them & couldn't find any, maybe the AI fairy's put them there when my back was turned, little barstools that they are.

Hopefully its just a leaking hose/union Check the waterpump/thermostat for signs of leaking. Think the waterpump is behind timing etc. Alasdair

Maybe bad coolant sensor/wiring. It can send wrong signal to ecu and cause poor starting when warm. Is the temp guage reading ok. Alasdair

Thanks all for replying especially the guy who put the link to the workshop manual. It’s finally done, I filled the oil after removing this plug- see pic. Fitted a new plug also new copper washer on drain plug for peace of mind and happy days!😀👍

So Gandalf came back today, transformed into a Stage 3 machine!! A very nice upgrade, which I'm enjoying a lot more than the Stg 2 upgrade. It's still early days, but it just keeps pulling and pulling and pulling. Dyno reveals a nice healthy 297 kw (403 hp) 550 Nm at the wheels power. Mine being a FWD, the Galano boost-by-gear is working overtime, but doing a good job, to put most of that power through the front wheels. The car can break traction in 3rd gear if push really hard!! Upgrade involved:- Garrett Powermaxx GT2260S Stg 1 turbo Galano Port Injectors 1050cc HPFP T-Piece and Bung for split system NGK-R - Spark Plugs - Stage 2/3 Galano Pro ECU Stage 3 with TCU Upgrade Because of the turbo upgrade, they flushed and put in new coolant, as well as the engine oil and filter. Likewise wheel alignment was also done. I'm enjoying the drive a lot more now. Turbo has more drama now with whines and spooling noises. Dyno.... Pic of the Powermaxx turbo n the bits it came with... Marketing of the Powermaxx turbo..... Fitted.....

& it is not just 1.4 TSI,s. 1.2TSI,s as well, and threads in the Mk3 Fabia, Rapid, Kodiaq.

The S-Pin. If turned on, you're asked to enter it everytime the Infotainment boots up. It's set in the app and can be changed in there quite easily if you've forgotten it

I will see pretty soon just how much the new fixed tariff for 6 hours offpeak @ 9.5 pence a kWh & the standard tariff drops in April.

I expect public charging pries will be going up if the war continues. Commercial prices are not capped

There was a UK DVSA Critical Safety Recall on 2014 VW Polo. Possible fuel leak, but that was Filter Canister i think, and not called for the fire risk but handling. I suppose liquid fuel on rear tyre / discs....

The mandatory recall was for North America - involved approx. 250 000 1.4TSI Passats manufactured between 2016 and 2018. No recall (or even TSI) AFAIK issued for Europe.

Had a good search at home and in the car and definitely can’t find it. The garage has extractors for this situation so they’ll remove them and leave it on 4 bolts a corner so they can finish the work. 5 second hand OEM bolts should be delivered tomorrow so I can get them to fit them when I collect it.

I stick my postcode in to the Octopus website, West Midlands, and this is what I get, try yours ..... If link does not work try google "Octopus GO rates". Seems to show 6.99 p per KWh for GO and 5.99p for IOG. Octopus largest supplier in the UK plus figures should be same for everyone but some are saying EON quoting even cheaper..... (The 3.51 p per KWh reduction is the removal of the Government ECO levy everyone should get) Night rate (00:30 - 05:30) 10.5p / kWh Now just 6.99p/ kWh from April 1 Day rate (05:30 - 00:30)35.52p / kWh Now just 32.01p/ kWh from April 1 Standing charge 54.82p / day Octopus EnergyOctopus Go | Find your Octopus Go rates | Octopus EnergyThe UK's most awarded energy supplier. We're doing energy better - for you and the environment.

Yep, red light is oil pressure.

for battery, the battery light will come on and then go off as normal when you start , i have checked the grounds as i know its a common fault, pulled the starter and it’s working fine , i can check both crank and cam pos sensors and i’ll have a look at the oil pressure switch , the only other thing i can think of is the fact that asz’s have oil level sensors and i dont have one , however thought that light was pressure not level , thanks guys

For oil pressure warning, disconnect the the single wire plug from the pressure switch and see if it has oil inside it. If it does that's a solid indicator of failed pressure switch.

Low cranking speed can cause failure to start warm in these I think. Try charging the battery and see if that helps. Does the battery light correctly illuminate when you turn on ignition?

Sorry, I thought i knew which thread in the Mk3 Fabia section had a post showing the pathetic reply the DVSA give, but my memory failed me, or i am just missing it.

Hope to be selling my car next week, so will leave it for dealer to do. Happy to just keep cancelling the update. Never bothered putting personal details in, so nothing there to worry about, if I do the install. PIN?

I got the message last Wednesday and just had to log back in. Read the full message, before pressing OK, there is an option to delay installation. Try to avoid doing what I did. My finger pressed the OK while my eyes were still reading and before my brain had caught up!🙃

A new data base for MIB2 v1.10.64 of 01.12.2025

😊

Hi guys, sorry for the extremely late reply. But better late than never. In case some people have a similar problem with an HTP motor, so if it would not start out of the blue: It had nothing to do with the electronics. After a longer search, I read in some Polo forum that someone had a similar issue with a 1.2l motor and he successfully started the motor while giving a bit of gas/ pressing the paddle. That did the job here as well. The throttle needs cleaning and the flap was a bit stuck? Anyway, no issues ever since. I will open a new thread for the oily underside of the car.

Sounds like a battery issue - it may have had a cell give up in the cold meaning the voltage is low and the car is preventing stop start to try and charge it? I'd get the battery load tested.