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It is true that I have heard so from others as well....and it was my biggest worry, at the time of delivery...but so far, knock on wood, seems to be a false alarm....

I had a report from the DVSA in the UK along with my local dealer accepting (in writing) that there was a problem in the way that mine was set up. I knew a good lawyer, so he helped me a lot, as did my local dealer. As soon as Skoda UK went through all the details provided, they were obliged to honour my rejection request. I'm more than happy with the settlement. We all know that lemons are out there and mine was one of them. BTW my Volvo XC90 (leased) has been absolutely faultless, just like the Superb that I had for 8 years before. In a way I did like the Kodiaq, but the issues I had were impossible to live with, even nobody in my family would get in it before I handed it back.

Today was the first time i spotted a Hyundai Ionic 9 Htac. What a beast of a car. Not as bad llooking as the Big Kia version IMO.

Had to do this last summer. On the mk4 when you turn ignition off the main info screen gives you the option to turn off “interior monitoring” — that’s what needs to be turned off so that the vehicle doesn’t set off the alarm if the sea is a bit choppy. No need to turn anything else off. So it’s all in the main screen when you turn off the ignition.

Towbar prep in all Karoqs is the cable that runs from front to back, AND in some smaller engined Karoqs included increased cooling mods eg different grill and extra fan or bigger fans. Irrespective of actual brand of towbar the Towing Module is required and this requires coding to make the towbar electric socket work correctly with the CANBUS. This coding affects ABS and ESC configuration, dashboard repeaters for indicators, rear parking sensors and rear emergency braking, without this disabled when towing it won’t be possible to reverse. Yes the rear parking sensors can be switched off, most cars it’s a button, every time the car is started. Maybe there are on screen options on latest models. The coding has been released for 2024, 2025 models, there are owners who have had it done, BUT not all dealers are willing to do it. There are no coding issues with 2023 and earlier models.

There is a selection in the info menu it works well. You can also change the dash to km/hr which is very helpful.

That's an additional cost but again isn't answering my question... So again... what areas of our lives we have looked at more closely as a result of the war in Iran and why and what transport will be different because of it in the future. If you don't know or can't answer just say... But then also stop making brash broad brush statements about fundamental changes in transport that isnt going to happen... After all is finished we'll still import goods by boat and plane, move them by train and lorry and travel by car, train,bus, bike and legs etc.

I mentioned the huge uptick in freight charges, both air and sea, from Europe's main goods supply area ue China and SE Asia. Doubling and even trebling of freight rates. That will have a big effect on landed cost of goods we buy.

Hi all, Karoq SEL Edition owner, 75 plate: I understand you have to have an optional 'light' package on the car to be able to select LHD or RHD lights in the infotainment settings. My old Tiggy had this. My current vehicle does not. Without the package I am sure the car will not (via GPS or similar) detect your location and alter light pattern automatically, HOWEVER I'm sure I read in the car manual when all shiny & new that the modern headlights do not dazzle abroad when in use (so no sticky strips from Halfords). There is the option to adjust them vertically due load weight but not to alter the 'sweep' - illumination direction. If anyone can find that reference in a Karoq manual....... Cheers PD

Today I ripped into it - took out the air filter box, battery, ECU and both headlights. Then, armed with some 120 grit aluminium oxide paper and a wire brush, I shined up all the earth points I could find (two on the bulkhead by the battery, the gearbox/chassis earths, and one under each headlamp). I also shined up all the fuses and relay in the engine bay fusebox. I inspected the ECU and wiring for signs of corrosion and damage, no smoking gun - the ECU connections looked pristine, and I measured the earth connections with a multimeter. The earth points all looked "ok" - no obvious problems, but they did all look like they were 16 years old on a car that had spent every single day outside I suppose! I was bit annoyed that I hadn't found an obvious answer, but after re-assembling I drove it to my girlfriend's and back and the problem hasn't reared its head. Also, the voltage readout on my android head unit was a lot more stable than it had been previously. I won't call it fixed just yet, but it looks like it was worth doing!

@Rigor Yes found the issue. Had it looked at by a VAG specialist, after the dealership had looked at it and according to the official Skoda Workshop manual/Operations system thingy they use a reset of all systems and taking it off the battery for a couple minutes to reset it should fix it. And there was no follow-up to that in their system, that should just fix it and no further action. Unfortunately that didn't fix it... So I took it to the VAG specialist that also installed the OEM tow hook when the dealership said it wasn't possible, and they did manage to fix it after "calling with Germany" and finding out all it needed was a bit of extra cable tree of about 30cm. They confirmed to me that the official Skoda manual thingy stops after the (battery) reset (they use the same system), but they decided to take a physical look in the fuel tank. They found issues with both fuel pumps and floaters. I checked the invoice and they replaced this: - Jet pump with float - Fuel Transfer Module - Float for fuel gauge (Translated this from Dutch, so might not be 100% correct and unfortunately no parts numbers on the invoice...) This fixed the issue, indicating correctly again! Happy to have that with the current fuel prices ;)

I have had a mikd hybrid and self charging hybrid recently and they have their good points but, like PHEVs they have big down sides also. Mild hybrid one did not even notice it had any hybrid gubbins at all really, just quite good mpg. Our self charging hybrid lots its engines management and became a nightmare, after having one of its wheel changed. Too complex abd I gather the bew buyer rejected it after it went wrong another 3 times. PHEVs also massively compromised. Loads more weight, less boot space than otherwise. Shocking mileage per kwh in electric mode as almost never have heat pumps so really bad in cold weather. If fuel became very cheap again I would go for a nice simply pure petrol car. My, well daughter no 2 car I gave to her, Mk 4 Clio, 0.9 litre 3 cylinder turbo, would do better mpg than the 1.6 naturally aspirated hybrid Clio we also had. Yes hybrid was nicer to drive, lots of low down grunt from the electric motor. But my conclusion was all electric was the better way in so many respects and the recent fall in charging costs plus the big hikes in fossil fuel costs endorse that decesion. Now I do know a few people who needed to oft do hundreds of miles a day sometimes and theurcdecesion to stay with diesel is partly understandable. I wish I coukd hear they tried a TESLA model 3 or Y, best selling cars in the world, but don't think they did. There are other alternatives, as they say if you don't like sport there is always David Colman, (Monty Python i seem to recall), but there is BMW, Merc and Polestar who do EVs with almost 500 mile range after topping up for less than a tenner at home or twenty quid out on the road rather than over a hundred pounds !

I reckon the tank is 45 litres plus whatever fits in the pipe to the filler cap. I am often putting 42-43 litres in mine, usually around the time the bottom mark lights up red - at which point I have about 65 - 85 miles of range left. The variation in the range is down to the type of recent journeys and average fuel economy. If several short journeys at around 45mpg then the lower figure, but I'm often doing longer trips and can get high-50's to low-60s mpg. Have done over 600 miles on a single fill - perhaps pushing my luck, but thankfully not pushing the car 😉

Though not yet finished, awesome job!

Auto express say 47.8 litres By your use and putting 40 litres in means it has to be bigger than 40 litres unless you pushed it to the garage

As indeed are many cars, my sister-in-law's Toyota Yaris Cross hybrid (HEV) is setup the same way, but once that stored power is used, the ICE kicks in and takes over the driving and also recharges the battery at the same time. The point is, however, that the public are voting to go either full on ICE or some form of hybrid, such as PHEV or HEV, not full on BEV. At least her HEV will always start and run in EV mode as long as there is power in its battery. The PHEV, however, that is not the case, is it? If the car is never plugged in, it will always default to the ICE system and indeed this is what most of the PHEV cars do, the drivers mostly do not plug them in but vote for a PHEV in order to still get all the benefits that are being offered by the HM Government. I agree about the Dacias, but they are incredibly basic cars when you compare them with even my 2019 Kodiaq, but then, some people don't like power windows, etc., and are very happy with a really basic setup and interiors. That's not for me, though.

@Kosin sent me a dm on how he did his. Seems like an ok job. I’ve bought a proper tool from Ali express to release the sun visors as I don’t want to break the new one I’ve just installed!

I was thinking on the same lines as you but I will check out the options via the Infotainment menu. Thanks

Might be a faulty DPF pressure sensor/wiring. When towing the engine will be under more load so may be getting confused and sending wrong signal or due to towing at lower speeds with engine under more load it may not be regenerating properly. Might be worth getting it scanned with vcds and also check soot/ash levels etc. Check exhaust system for leaks as well. Alasdair

Hello, Back from the car. I only found a NJ - FIII - description video online. On the FII I did the following. Unclip ALL connections inside the tailgate - high brake light, wiper, heated screen, lock, washer connection. Unclip all securing clips. One is hidden behind the high brake light between the skins of the tailgate going to the right connection of the heated screen. Pull the wires back. Disconnect the struts. Unbolt the tailgate - 4 10mm bolts. Job done. And all this because my daughter wants to fix the horrible lacquer peel.

These are easily removed and have been known to "fall off" while the vehicle is parked. I have glued mine into place to prevent further falling-off.

Exactly! No more issues like that.

Brian, Skoda Yeti, Roof Rail Bar End Cap for sale | eBay www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=Skoda+yeti%2C+roof+rail+bar+end+cap&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p4624852.m570.l1313

The lighting regulations only require one rear fog light to be fitted on the offside half (i.e. anywhere from the centre of the vehicle outwards) - Peugeot especially take advantage of this since it means they can fit a single rear fog light on the centre rear. Similarly the lighting regulations only require one reversing light. I had 2 Audi B6 Avants from different build years - the earlier build had 2 but the later build had only 1, presumably as a cost saving.

I believe that the LED lights are capable of detecting correct side to dip - should be automatic (through GPS), but there may also be a manual setting in the Infotainment system.

For those interested, the EA888 Gen 3B engine cover fits nicely on pre-facelift Superb. U just need 2x engine cover ball studs (WHT007324) for the engine cover. It screws into pre-existing mounting holes on the intake manifold. My original engine cover had APR badges on it which was no longer relevant, so I ended up replacing it with the Gen 3B engine cover version. The two ball studs screw into pre-existing mounting holes on the intake manifold. Engine cover part no. is 06K103925CK. I stuck a Skoda badge on top of the VW logo 😁

Yes I did. Under the bonnet, near the wipers, there was the secondary alarm. Need to remove the wiper trim and it’s in the middle with one bolt. Disconnected it and the all works fine. I need to replace the part - which is around £30 for a used one but not had any time.

My original engine cover had APR badges on it which was no longer relevant, so I ended up replacing it with a EA888 Gen 3B engine cover version. It fits just fine, just needed to add two ball studs, WHT007324. The intake manifold already has mounting holes for the studs to screw into. Nice n easy. Engine cover part no. is 06K103925CK. I stuck a Skoda badge on top of the VW logo 😁

My 2024 SE Tech Estate has only one reversing light, presumably by design but I don't know 100%!!

Thank You

Hi, I got L&K full leather with ventilation and masage. Coming from MK3 full leather seats without the extras on 98K miles. Old seats while showing slight wear but held great and for me were more comfortable whan new ones. New ones are also good but seems to be more narrow so every time I need to adjust myself in the middle of the seat. Done 13K in my MK4 with 2 trips over 2000 miles without an issue. Big and tall driver here.

If you are 'coding' the new battery with an appropriate scan tool you can just delete all errors codes, the next drive after this will prevent any erroneous error codes showing up, actual issue error codes will of course return if they don't relate to the previous battery being too low for computer systems.

Memory saver is not necessary. The system is clever enough to reinitialize everything properly. You just need to drive for 400-500m (or 1/4 mile) to have all fault codes vanishing from your dashboard. They'll just be logged. But you can delete them from all concerned Control Units memory with VCDS, if you want. This being said, if you use a memory saver, it could possibly prevent you from having this "Xmas tree" effect on your dashboard upon engine start, once the new battery has been connected.

No not missed that news. You didn't answer my questions though... I asked you to clarify what areas of our lives we have looked at more closely as a result of the in Iran and why and what transport will be different because of it in the future. You response above is just deflection and whataboutery...

'Gulf War 3' Higher fuel prices because of it are certainly resonating in my pocket.

Hi and welcome to Briskoda @Tobbe2 👋

UPDATE: So, we finally got the car back this morning. It went in over two weeks ago once we knew the hydraulic/ABS system had a fault. Garage contacted VW for the part only to be told that it is on back order with no idea when (or even if) it would be available. Garage then started to make further enquiries and found a small company that said they could actually repair the "ABS pump module" (as I now know it is called) and actually managed to do it! So part was returned, refitted with no callout for a programmer to recode a new one. Entire job originally expected to be between £2 and £2.5 ended up being £980. Including all the original testing and determining the fault. As far as I am concerned, that's a win. As someone said upthread, it's great to have a good local garage.

I would. If you can afford it. Then you know whole assembly is new components of known quality. I recently had a spring break and it took the top mount and damaged the shock all together. Top mount and shock had been replaced by previous owner 20,000 miles ago but old coil springs reused.

All alcantara seats in all VW/Skoda are great and show no wear up to 120k I have driven so far. Leather in recent S4/Passat and other cars dropped the quality and stretch out just from sitting on them with low mileage. I do around 1000km one way in my S4 and the Sportline seats are comfortable. Unfortunately alcantara seats are ventilated only in Passat and this feature is missing from the sportline seats in S4. But the ventilation in VAG cars are pretty weak anyway compared to other brands so one does not miss that much.

I could not get the rear electric handbrake to reset with the OBD11 due to SDF lock, but i just did it the old school way without it nessessary. Took the handbrake off, pushed back the pistons, changed rotors and pads, put everything back together and toggled the electric brake on and off a couple of times, been driving for over 30.000km now without any faults. Had them check if everything was OK when it went in to service a while back , and they said it was no problems or faults.

And it only applies to the hybrid motorized car (1.4 iV) versions!

Not bad! I think I got 54mpg driving up through Wales going steady at national speed limit speeds, which I was very happy with. I think the car does well, especially if it's not regenerating the DPF. I've read you can do better if you don't use adaptive cruise as the car tends to use brakes to manage speed where as a sensible human just lets off and coasts to saves energy!

After seeing so many people doing it the wrong way, I decided to make my own video

The OEM air quality sensors are made by Amphenol SGX Sensortech. The make a few different sensors that detect different gasses but the AZ65A seems to be the one most suited for air quality sensing in vehicles. They can be purchased from Mouser or Farnell for around £30+VAT which is significantly lower than the OEM labelled sensors...I wonder if they're a straight replacement? I've already replaced mine, but if it goes again...I'll probably give this a punt. SGX - SGX Sensortech Sensor

I, like many owners, use a thin nylon cable to push down the drain tubes to keep them clean. Front drains are visible in each corner and easily accessed, rears are not accessible as they are covered by the fixed glass panel. They are accessible from underneath, one side is more accessible than the other. I don’t think there is any sort of flap over the outlet now. I park my car so it slopes to the rear and then pour water carefully into the gutter around the open roof, it’s possible to feel the water coming out the rear drains under the rear bumper. I also discovered that the pan roof is an optional service item, if you ask for it. There is a special fluid (liquid gold by the price!) in the small bottle, that keeps the neoprene seal flexible and thus it seals better. I clean the drains, clean the seals and wiped with the fluid every 6 months.