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Gen 6 Controller ist no include in the Pump

Gen 5

Sorted. Interestingly, the DLBA is a Gen3 engine!

2 years. Comes from @varooom who is sadly no longer here but definitely from the inside and pretty much font of all knowledge.

It's all just a bit soul less though isn't it...

Have I misunderstood? All was OK until the oil change then, despite a rattling engine, you took it on a motorway run?

Hope theres still oil in it? If its leaking at a plate it may be possible to remove and seal up again. Not sure if its a gasket or special sealant. Had an old toyota import that sump and Gbox were sealed with special grey silicone. Dealers were very expensive but I used Loctite SI5699 Been on for years and no leaks.

@lol-lol every drive is not about drivng to an empty tank or battery. Or a commute. Some dfive for leisure and pleasure and just go places to then come back. Sports cars or classics or whatever might never make economic sense, just good for your soul.

Bump incase anyone is inteterested. And for clarity i am 'guest_'the OP. & also 'toot' in the first screen grabs, and Roottoot,Offski, Ootohere and various other handles.

As a little extra, even the VW R models, Audi RS3, and Mercedes A-Class AMG, Cupra etc...have a multi-plate friction clutch; only the high-performance models have two of them, and the preload is achieved differently. However, the complete system isn't a VW or Audi development. It also comes from our company. Currently, we're offering the electrification of this model. 😜

Just a quick point: the transfer case for the rear axle of the 4x4 is a Haldex Gen 6, manufactured by BorgWarner. As a former supplier of the complete transfer case, I can tell you that VW themselves extend the maintenance interval. BorgWarner has completely different recommendations 😜

Whilst doing a radar recalibration with a wheel alignment is a thing (by the books), it is not really a must. Over the 8+ yrs I've had Gandalf, I've done at least a dozen wheels alignments without the radar calibration. No issues with the radar, steering or assist systems. All tracks well with ACC and Lane Assistance etc. etc. Even if u did want to do it, biggest issue is finding someone who can do the radar calibration!!

Nope

Cheers for this Cairus. Is the controller software entirely different too? I was looking at Haldex tuning and it seems there are only tuning offers up to Gen5. Mine is Gen6 😢

Stupid question perhaps, but are you sure that the battery itself is not the problem?

The oil in carpark could be yours and as said hope there's oil left in it. Worth getting oil level checked as if there's none left the leak will stop. Alasdair

Wonderfull as long as no malfunctions and recovery not required by a heavy duty ICE or BEV vehicle and there will be qualified mechanics. Everything is bigger in Ametica.

That tends to suggest that the oil spill she noticed in the car park isn't from yours.

Same on the MK1 1.9tdi my folks had. Tried once to clean rusty front discs for MOT by driving with brake on and car immediately lost power and loads of warning lights on. Hope it works. Alasdair

Found this video to be interesting generally. Do you get the feeling that he loves his mode of transport? Always a pleasure to see someone get really passionate about something, and I think he does, and that makes it all the more interesting. https://youtu.be/WXla-XE3b4U

Hello, we've found a new solution for the multimedia issue. I believe this problem is caused by liquid getting into the touchscreen or moisture accumulating there. If you can remove the screen, clean the touchscreen with isotopic alcohol. Wipe the power button and volume bar thoroughly. I haven't experienced any issues since May 2025. The power button and volume bar work perfectly.

Giti is the trademark of GT Radial tyres as I understand it - Singapore based and manufactured but German / European design and tech. They supply OE to VAG and Stellantis. Mid range brand but usually with better than mid-range reviews. Which version are they?

oh got you, should have worked that out!

If you're driving for a few hours at a time, certainly consider the 2.0TDI (There's a nice looking (IMO) Black Edition in Sheffield). Rarer, but 1.4 TSI's (Petrol) and 1.6TDI's do come up. Gaz

Welcome. 1.8 tsi is best avoided. They can be a real lottery. PS.be sure to check out For Sale cars on Briskoda from members. Often well sorted cars.

I have tended, like many, to regard people who buy Audis as wallies, more money than sense. I had an A4 and an A3 but as company cars provisions. Does not take long to realise that A3, Golf, Leon, Octavia all built on same platform and with the non Octavias you are paying more and getting less. A5 is on the A6 platform and whilst bigger than the A4 not sure what one gets unless one goes for the more exotic engines V6 etc. All I remember about the A5 was not too spacious in the back with lowish roof line course and being over 6ft tall I would not want to do long journeys in the back. Which brings us back to SUV land as most people I know have gone for Q series cars and this has since the big A series cars diminish in popularity. Maybe a future of expensive fuel will see the low ICE saloons come back in to fashion with their superior f uel consumption over SUVs ? Dislike Audi dealers as if I did not dress up in my business suit they reception staff would look down their noses. Give me a Cupra, SEAT or Skoda everytime over a Audi or VW. E-trons and R8/10 etc are the only Audis I would consider as the other Audis are better, Newish Superb, 280 hp, over A5 or A6.

Is normal, EU Regulation

Hi Alasdair. Wiring from, to ecu unit looks OK. There are 4 brown wires that are near the ecu unit that are grounded. All are secure and clean. I also secured ecu unit. The only thing I can think to do now is put a new throttle body on because of initial mention made by RAC man, and they also mentioned the throttle body in the garage where I had a diagnostic test done. I'm not convinced that this is the issue though. Any further ideas before I replace the throttle body? Kind regards.

Hi all, Quick update on this issue after further repairs and testing. Since my original post, the following additional parts/work have now been completed: Engine mounts replaced Gearbox mounts replaced Silentblocks / bushings replaced Unfortunately, the vibration/judder symptom remains almost exactly the same as before. Current situation: Still mainly happens under load / stronger acceleration Still most noticeable in 3rd and 5th gear Still much more noticeable uphill Still reduces or disappears almost immediately when lifting off the throttle No major vibration at idle No major vibration at constant cruising speed So at this stage: clutch pack replaced dual mass flywheel replaced engine mounts replaced gearbox mounts replaced silentblocks replaced ...and the core symptom remains. This is making me increasingly doubt that the original issue was actually caused by the clutch/flywheel/mounts themselves. The gearbox specialist is now suggesting the mechatronic unit may be responsible, but I am struggling to understand how a mechatronic issue would create a vibration pattern that appears mainly: under torque/load in specific gears (especially 3rd and 5th) and disappears immediately when lifting throttle. I am now starting to wonder whether this could instead be related to: inner CV joints driveshafts / half shafts differential/output side DSG output bearings drivetrain resonance/load issue or another known DQ200 issue. Has anyone here experienced something VERY similar where: expensive DSG/mount/clutch repairs changed almost nothing, but the final cause ended up being somewhere else in the drivetrain/transmission system? Any further ideas or experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again for all the help so far.

Brake discs look tired. Matching, but budget tyres: reviews are quite mixed. No photo's of the seat bases (always a good reminder to look closely!). See if you can get the Reg. No. so you can look at its MOT history. Check its service history. I've always fancied a Yeti (though I'd want a 4x4). When looking I was surprised how small the boot is. A mate had a 1.2 Fabia from the same year, that I looked after from time to time - had a good little engine. If you're not mechanically minded, have it inspected. Don't buy it without seeing it, and driving it yourself, would be my advice. Gaz

F1 / Formula E etc etc is just like GoKarting in bigger and faster cars & even what were top drivers from the past 5 years know they are Sh-!te. Extreme E also. And really it has nothing to do with Road going BEV,s . City cars, family cars, taxi / airport transport sized cars SUV,s LGV,s or HGV,s/ Busses. What there is now and coming out are the stupid fast BEV Hot hatches following and maybe selling better than Abarth, JCW,s & Alpines in the form of the Peugeot e205 GTI, Corsa GSE, SEAT Raval VZ etc. UK National Speed Limit 60 mph.....

All Credit to Bevinsee customer service. I sent details and photos of issue and a new pair of bulbs are being sent out to me on next day delivery for 50% discount so that I also have a spare. Lets hope this solves it!

Drive Profil Mode Change a Lot of more Systems

This is ACC

If you haven’t tried, maybe take a photo or video when the fault occurs and send it to the dealer as evidence.

Apparently it's leaking from the gearbox, not the engine. If I look under the car I can see oil forming droplets on the plate that forms the bottom of the gearbox. I only checked the engine oil (using the dipstick) as until this past week I didn't realise the gearbox had its own oil. I'd assumed it used the same oil as the engine (I know almost nothing about engines - clearly). Car feels fine. It's 14 years old so it's no spring chicken but it feels the same as it has done for the past few years.

All I've read is asking for others to quote sources, yet just being non-descript about what you've heard from who or what. Occy's added links, quoted sources and explained stuff in detail - in part because you've asked, but in part he's proactively offered this information. I still don't see that reciprocated. This is just bonkers. What's an aggressive schedule? Too much maintenance? That flies in the face of logic. From the vehicle's point of view, there's only one way you can mess up maintenance and that's not doing it enough. Given the allusion that independents advising servicing are money-making, you're giving the impression cost is more important than maintenance.

Not at all. Please do report back with what you find - if someone finds this thread in seven years time, it's nice to have a happy (or unhappy) ending! Equally, do let me know if I'm wrong - the above is just my understanding and experience of the MQ250 box in my Leon,

1) Why start a new thread? Because this thread was for OP to ask about spec and pricing regarding a car. Yes, servicing (or lack thereof) does come into it, but it doesn't need to become a technical bulletin discussion. 2) I would suggest ditching DuckDuckGo. I typed 'VW front differential service interval' into Google and the relevant VW service bulletin was result number nine. 3) I would suggest doing a bit more targeted research. If you've bought the car and not known about the existence of the front diff, then the research wasn't done very well. 4) The implied level of knowledge would be based on you having done more than twenty minutes of Googling. A simple search of 'VW front differential' would highlight the terms mentioned, such as VAQ. That being said if, as you now tell us, you don't know anything about the differential, perhaps advising members on it being 'lifetime' isn't the best port of call? Seeing as you commented on '40k miles not being terribly high', I assumed you had done your research and had information from an official source. Certainly, I wouldn't be on a public forum dispensing advice on things I didn't understand. That's how mistakes happen, and how people that rely on these forums for information end up damaging their cars. 5) I'm not upset. I've been using this forum for a while and I'm very happy with it. The reason for my annoyance is that, as above, I assumed you'd done your research on the VAQ, hence why you were giving advice and were 'under the impression' by dealers. When I read someone giving out incorrect advice and then questioning where I am getting my information from, that tends to annoy me. 6) You speak for yourself. People such as @Warrior193, @Evolution13 and I agree on many things, but also disagree frequently. That said, we all have experience on the topics we discuss - which is not the case here. When you're stating experiences that aren't correct, that's when disagreements occur. I've given you plenty of links to play with. You've given us vague ascertations from stuff you've read using DuckDuckGo. Try using Ecosia - if you're going to waste your time, you may as well plant some trees in the process. 7) I'm sorry you're dissappointed. Please feel free to look through my recent activity - you'll see that I'm very welcoming to questions and new members (myself not exactly being a seasoned veteran on here). I was welcomed warmly, and I hope that others continue to feel the same. As I said, my lack of content is due to the way you've given incorrect advice, without any backing, and then repeatedly questioned my comments. Writing everything out the way I did, if I'm honest, wasn't for you - it's for the benefit of all those that come across this thread in the future and need the correct advice. Hopefully, though, they're steered towards the correct information. I'm sorry you feel this forum isn't the place for you. I wish you all the best with the forums you are involved in.

I should add that my understanding of an MOT, is that it decides whether the car is fit for the road at a given time. A customer could wish to get the last 1000 miles out of a set of discs, so the garage inspects the car and decides if the discs are ok at that moment. As I found out, if you are only presenting your car for MOT, and not really getting any other inspections carried out, you really should be a hands-on car owner. Only experience can really teach you this though.

Yes, it has all the updates. Mines a Sportsline, so 20 inch wheels as well. Giving shouldn't be anywhere near the sportline trim. I was expecting Hancook or pirelli.

I'm on version 8.11.0 on Android and I can see the full charging history. Not much help to you, however. I haven't been offered a newer version - it is showing a last updated date of 27 March 2026.

@Flatiron210 This is quite a familiar story to me. I had a Fabia Mk2 from about 4 years old (front discs and rear drums like yours). I regularly serviced it for a while, then fell in to just changing the oil and hoping for the best in an MOT. I'm not particularly proud of that, but I don't actually think that regular servicing would have really made a huge amount of difference. Eventually I did get sticking front calipers and indeed overheating of the front nearside wheel. I also noted that the previous set of discs had not even lasted through one set of pads. I had brought this up with my local garage but was generally fobbed off with them saying it is normal to go through a set of discs with only the relatively small mileage I had done. At this point I decided this was the time to educate myself about what had been going on and I did. The garage I had been using had been replacing the pads and discs and making very little effort to clean anything up around the bracket and caliper. My fuel economy was probably taking a huge hit with the piston not really retracting (for at least a while) before getting really bad. After briefly considering refurbishing the calipers, I realised that special tools would be required to remove the seized bleed screws and pistons. (The calipers are of some residual value if you trade them in for refurbished ones.) I did the whole job myself, but changing a caliper involves disconnecting the brake lines, so I really had to learn properly what I was doing. From what I have found as a rank amateur (as my name suggests), best practice would be to check your bleed screws every two years, remove them, put them back in with anti-seize (replace with fresh ones every four or so years probably). Also, after about ten years, buy a kit and replace the pistons, or at least the two rubber seals. Also, get in around the caliper and bracket with a wire brush attachment on a drill or a dremel grinding stone attachment. Also, make sure the slide pins are clean and greased. Proper servicing would probably take the caliper off, sand blast it and replace all the moving parts and seals. This would be well before it sticks, because if it is sticking, the inside milled surface the piston operates on may be pitted already, meaning a much more difficult job of refurbishing it. Then, I moved on to the drums, and this is where I discovered that things were extremely bad. The drums themselves were okay, but there was so much brake dust that had turned into a stone like coating all over everything inside. One of the cylinders was leaking slightly and not operating correctly. The springs weren't returning the shoes to the correct position for driving, so only the action of driving was releasing them from the sides of the drum. Effectively I believe that the car was somehow passing MOT with very little rear braking input. Whether it should have passed I don't know. I do believe that the brake drums possibly hadn't been off since the car was new and it was about 12 years old at this point. Certainly it is within reach for a car owner to open up the drum and clean it out with brake cleaner every now and again, but caution should be exercised when jacking a car up and putting it on axle stands. For example, once you have the rear wheels off the ground, the effect of the handbrake is nullified. I did do the full job on the drums and I noticed a big difference in that on releasing the handbrake, the car would roll much easier. So the moral of the story is that if the car is ten years old and or has done around 70,000k miles, yes it could be completely valid that a full brake overhaul is necessary. You wouldn't do that if the car has other major problems, but if the engine seems okay and it is running fine, yes get it done. If the same regime is followed as the original one, it will be back in the same place in a few years though.

I had this happen on my 2018 sportline 280...replaced driver's side rear, three weeks later other rear failed so ended up changing both. Checked fuses, wiring etc, swapped both units and yeah it was dead....220 quid per side

Visited Platinum Skoda Bath yesterday after having an email "conversation" with a sales rep about a new 4x4 Karoq (i.e. Sportline 4x4 petrol) and arranging to visit for a look at their stock - only 2x4 so she suggested no test drive as "they drive differently". She seemed to have forgotten that we were visiting and did no more than unlock a 2x4 diesel and walk back to her desk. No sales patter, no description of the features/specs,... Very unimpressed, so much so that we decided our next new car would NOT be a Karoq. Platinum Bath are also Toyota dealers so we walked next door and spoke to a very helpful sales rep there (Chris) who found a just in 2025 RAV4 for us to test drive (unaccompanied), as a result of which we now have a 2026 Toyota RAV4 GR Sport on factory order. Platinum Toyota Bath - top marks, Platinum Skoda Bath - zero marks for a sales rep who really didn't seem to care.

It's nice to come across someone who's ordered the foldable tow bar. I decided against it and then had it fitted aftermarket by our local Skoda Dealer and it cost just about double. I don't know what you'll be towing, but we have an Ifor Williams P8 unbraked trailer, which the car handles fine, but it does kill the range, even when it's empty. But the cars great. Ours is an Edition 85, it's done 17000 miles and we love it. I'm sure you'll enjoy yours, although I guess you'll miss the space of the Superb.

2nd job was to fit the dog guard and divider. I was marvelling at how big the boot was and then I put the dog in the car.

Hi Alasdair. Thanks for the reply. Have checked negative lead from battery to bodywork and also under battery tray. Both fine. Will look into lead from ECU unit. Did notice that ECU unit is a little lose where it is located, due to plastic locating tabe being broken. Could this cause a problem? Thanks.

Clicking whilst turning and at slow speed tends to indicate a bad CV joint on the front axle

Well spotted, Tintowellfan! Skoda don't do front mudflaps for the Monte which has the additional moulding fixed to the sill. So I ordered standard Fabia flaps and trimmed them round the moulding using a hacksaw and dremel. Not the neatest fit and there is a small gap evident but, if these modern supercars have large open vents behind the front wheels, why am I worried? Rear flaps are standard Fabia and fit perfectly.