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Update: The original issue has been resolved. Turns out the battery was bad, as the car was struggling to start and there were visible signs of battery issues, despite tests suggesting that the battery was fine. Replaced the battery with a new one and the car now drives fine, haven't had any steering issues since nor any ABS and handbrake alarms. The airbag light is still on but has likely been activated and needs resetting, I'll have to look into that. Thanks all for your assistance.

Afternoon all. Early this year, i made the plunge. I moved across to Skoda from VW. Perhaps they are all the same or perhaps im just getting older and actually, having a decent car with a few less gadgets and a more affordable price tag is more important to me. Anyway, hi all.

Dealer addressing the scaremongers about the cost of fixing a battery out of warranty.

May go off after a drive but I think air bag codes may have to be reset as they are a safety item so codes are probably stored permanently until cleared with scanner.

In fact, I believe I've seen past quotes of £1.2 to £1.4K for the 1.5ACT!

As I say - your choice - but I've not yet seen any evidence of early failures at all. I generally keep my cars a long time (usually well over 100k miles - the last two have been 132k and 113k). I'm sure you are aware but a cambelt change on a TSI Petrol with ACT will not be far short of £1000 given the specialist nature of the kit required to re-time the cams, and other parts of the world haven't been reporting early failures within VAG's latest changed recommendation. On the other hand - what I have seen is reports of issues AFTER such cambelts have been changed... But as I noted - each to their own.

You both make fair comment and that's your choice as it's your car. However personal experience, and that of the rest of the world that has had similar regimes (the UK was the only country that didn't follow the VAG guidance for Thier technicians) suggests they can last much longer than 4 years or 100k miles and you would therefore be wasting money changing them. But as I said... Your car, your choice

See here, once cover off you can release the actuator. Might just need some silicon spray to get it working again.

FOR SALE – 73/100 Registered 1 March 2002 A rare opportunity to purchase one of the remaining 16 Octavia WRC 100 Edition cars left in the UK. 73/100 was fully restored by Des Jansen (delcac on here) during 2015/16/17. Des lived in Kent and he and Pete Drury who owned 66/100 decided to carry out a joint restoration of the two WRCs. Whatever was done to No 66 was also done to No 73 and Pete maintained a blog of the restoration of No 66 - see attached link: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/370561-wrc-66100-and-88100/ Back in 2016 the two cars were considered as the best WRCs in the country. Approximately £16,000 was spent on the restoration of No 73 turning it into an almost brand new Octavia WRC. All parts replaced were new genuine from Skoda. I purchased the car in May 2018 with the mileage on 113600 and it has been a privilege to own a piece of Skoda history. It still looks and drives like a new car. The only imperfection is a dent on the bonnet where I dropped a hammer! Link attached to the BriSkoda advert when I bought it as it shows lots of information and pictures of the restoration which paint the full picture: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/448221-mk1-octavia-wrc-limited-edition-no-73-of-100-for-sale/#comment-5040729 Total mileage now is 119,800 so I have only added 6200 miles since the restoration in 8 years. It is a well known car on the forums and I will be sad to see it go. Reason for the reluctant sale is the purchase of a Audi S2 Avant dressed up as an RS2 which is my dream car so 73/100 has to go. The cherished plate V100 WRC goes with the car as it makes the car unique. I also have lots of spares to go with the car including another Decal set from the original supplier to Skoda (about £1200 value). I have 2 folders of receipts and photos of the restoration including a very rare certificate of authenticity from Skoda. The original service history is included and I have maintained the car with annual oil changes added to the service book. The MOT is valid to March 2027. Photo taken at the MOT in March 2026. No advisories since the restoration! This is a rare opportunity for the buyer to own a piece of automotive history as these cars do not come onto the market very often. The car is located in South Wales, 25 minutes from Cardiff. I believe I have priced it fairly at £12,995 or very near offer. Please contact me at <Removed> Please use the PM (Private Messaging) function to contact members in the first instance. If the PM function is not yet available to you, tagging the member and asking them to start a conversation will work. Strictly interested parties only; No timewasters please. Personal contact details removed. Briskoda admin.

hello everyone, I'm starting this topic as I couldn't find any info on it. I need to replace the rear subframe on a skoda superb mk 2 2015 2.0 tdi 170 the problem is that I can't find a replacement part online. All the subframes on ebay are for mk3 does anyone know if the mk2 and mk3 use the same rear subframe thank you

Hi new to the site I have just purchased a 2008 superb Laurin and klement edition in dark blue with cream leather 118000 with original wheels athou the wheels need full refurb i think they are diamond cut but maybe someone could correct me could anyone tell me how many were produced in mk1s and are they a rare car I would have preferred the 1.9 as apose to the 2.0 litre but it drives just a good and coud not find this edition in a 1.9 but I don't think they did a laurin klement in a 1.9 tdi but correct me if iam wrong

Hi Deereman44 and welcome, also from Gloucestershire

Cleeverly are the dog's dooberies. Put main dealers to shame. Fortunately only 20 miles from Worcester.

You'll need Freedom lite as a minimum before this becomes a 'For Sale' thread. Apologies for the inconvenience but too many before you have been caught selling without Freedom membership and it helps keep the site running. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/subscriptions/

@skomaz My MINI Cooper S Electric came on Goodyear Eagle F1 SuperSports which were pathetic but are they a different flavour from just F1,s.

With practice, it gets easier. I just need to reverse more slowly than usual and keep an eye on the edges of the rear sensor zones. They turn red (or something similar) when an approaching vehicle is detected, even before it starts braking. That’s how I handle it, and I actually find it to be useful safety training for myself. 🙂

I agree with warrior its probably indirect so reckon failing abs sensor/bearing or perhaps wiring. I assume any break in signal from sensor would confuse system and put low pressure warning on. My old Seat used to randomly warn me but tyres were fine. Cause was a failing bearing and sensor. Alasdair

That's a decent price for diamond cut. I would stick to that as the shiny highlights make a huge difference to the look of the wheel. All black or all silver are bland by comparison. We put winter wheels on our Yeti last year and went back to Matterhorns with all seasons - a huge difference to the looks.

Hi Gary2112 One thing occurs to me that may help your decision making process. The Kodiaq Scout was offered with DCC (Dynamic Chassis Control) only as an option. Obviously I don't know if you had that feature on yours. DCC is standard on all Sportline and L&K models. I have had three Kodiaqs with DCC and it makes a tremendous difference to roadholding and basic handling. If your driving is sometimes 'enthousiastic' put the Sportline in Sport mode, use the flappy paddles to change gear, get yourself on a good B road and drive it like you stole it !! Enjoy

Rather HW issue, usually Power PIC to be resoldered.

I have a moth in mine, and a huge caterpillar crawled out of the headlining on the first warm day after I got the car. No amount of shaking the tail lamp would shift the moth, the caterpillar made its own way out. I wonder if they were related...

Can generally be found molded into the plastic of the bulb holder, for example:

Unless a Fabia Mk4 has 'full-LED' rear lights, the car will have ordinary bulbs in the left and right main light-units that are in the bodywork on each side and removal of the light-unit (and the bulbs) is adequately covered in the Owner's Manual (search online Manuals for tail light assembly ) though the specification of the bulbs themselves is not stated. The main light-units provide brake, direction and position functions. For right-hand-drive cars, in the tailgate ('hatch') the right-hand (UK 'offside') light-unit provides fog and reversing lamp functions using LEDs, while the left-hand tailgate light-unit does not operate and (I'm pretty sure) has no electronic parts in it. This was discussed in this 2024 Forum topic https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/526779-changing-to-rhd/#comment-5887502

Stunning 👌

If it’s in the outer section on the car rather than the tailgate then they are pretty easy to remove. Open tailgate. Pull off plastic side cover. Undo 2x Torx and pull light cluster backwards. Disconnect wires. You can then remove the two bulbs and do some shaking and blowing and you might be lucky to remove it. I had a ladybird in mine and managed to get it out.

^^^ As in Aberdeen.

i have the same spider in my left taillight !

Hi AV8 Its the blue connector top right of pic and as Warrior says its connected in the glove box unit and not the HMI pic radio.jfif

There’s not much I haven’t been able to find on the forum in old posts and when there’s not something existing there’s people who know and are willing to help. Love this place!

Yep thanks @JR RS your guide helped a lot it was just I thought the image with 6c35 in the picture was from your car and I couldn’t work out where 30c5 came from and didn’t understand that c9d2 was a default value But that’s one thing with the people on this forum, always prepared to help and with all the different time zones and knowledge there is always some one to help

Glorious this evening............

Hi I know it's a bit of an old thread but I thought I'd share my experience on the matter. I have a MK2 1.6 TDI Combi. Reverse and 1st have been sticking for some time now. Mostly 1st. After doing some digging I found a video that looked helpful so I tried thought I'd explore that avenue. Although I did cut some corners and not completely do as the guy in the video did but it worked out and fixed the issue. Also it's not not exactly the same model as mine. I removed both items in the 1st picture to expose the leaver in the second. The leaver was loose as in the video. All I did was tighten the nut high lighted and the problem was solved. Hope this is helpful.

Think on the newer fabias the light unit comes out on rear. Used to be an access hatch on earlier ones. There should be some plastic slotted screws that once undone the light unit pulls away from car to get access to bulbs. Alasdair

An update after visiting the dealer. The dealer did confirm that the electric tailgate was not properly configured. They did make a video recoding on the operating tailgate and sent the video to experts. The mechanic adjusted the hook by lossening the screws holding the lower boot hook and now there is no more that terrible sound.

Judging by the pic, that will need repairing by someone with experience..the sill panel is actually split away from the floor pan.,,so a lift, and a MIG welder will be needed. But at least you have caught it in time.....and while its on the lift, give it a thorough inspection for any other lurking rust problems. Good Luck, and Best Regards, Jim.

That is a very fair price for how much work has been put into that. I wish I had the funds for something like this. Best of luck with the sale, let's hope it stays on the forum.

I don’t suppose this qualifies, but as well as the Octavia, I have the three wheeler…

I had Eagle F1s on a civic a while back and they were poor in the wet... The vredestein ultrac sessanta i replaced them with we're far better.

@lol-lol you got your rates that low partly thanks to your EV, I don't have one, or the ability to charge at home. If was to go and buy storage batteries etc and the HA found out, I'd be in breach of their rules. There really is with this policy, the creation of further class barriers etc which has been discussed before and is but one reason that the governments plan to get us all in electric cars is failing dismally. It is a poorly thought out policy which is being pushed by the elites with zero regard for the majority of citizens who for various reasons cannot have an electric car.

Hello, I'm making this post in the hope that it will help others. I bought a skoda octavia 3 cxxb, euro6, 1.6 tdi 110 hp, manual, at 205000km, year 2017 prefl, and it confused me with exaggerated regenerations in the city, like 100 km interval, and it started dancing because I know the engine and I know that it can last longer. Technically the car didn't seem to have any problems and it doesn't, all I found was one of the differential pressure sensors that was out of calibration, and I changed both OEM ones. The improvement was 10-15km. The real problem was with the mathematical model through which it did the calculation for the calculated soot, which was running faster than the measured one. I had software 6336 on it, which is actually the penultimate update for this configuration. I did the first downgrade to 5693, not finding much information at first, but the improvement was minor, with an interval between regenerations of 140-150 km. On this software I started looking only at calculated and measured, and the difference was enormous, like at 80 km in urban areas I had 18g calculated and 7g measured, and etc etc, I decided to go down to the first series of software available for the Delphi ECU on this car, the latest version of that series, 27xx. On this configuration, there are the software series 2x, 3x, 5x, 6x, and 9x, but I deduce that 2x would be the factory one, eu6, and the rest are updates. I think 3x is also more relaxed in terms of algorithm, as I had it on 2 other 1.6tdi eu6 cars, but from 5 onwards, it's a headache. Many people told me that this is how I do euro6, that I'm downgrading in vain because it's not the same thing as with euro5, when the solution was clear. However, the calculated soot since installation started to decrease its calculation speed, by a proportion of 42%. Mathematically, it was already a sufficient improvement, to take me to 200 urban km. On the first cycle I had 210 km with 50km extraurban, there was already a difference. On the first regeneration I noticed that it emptied to 4g, and before it didn't drop below 7g, 8g. Now I checked again at 185 urban km, and the calculated soot is at 16.5g, the engine sounds good, the consumption decreased a little (it was good anyway). So, it's not the same major difference as the ea188 engines that had the deceptive update, but there are also big differences on the ea288 compared to the factory software, and the updates that followed. Plus I found that although the group officially stated that only Euro5 cars were involved in the scandal, it seemed logical to me that those that were under construction, namely Euro6, would leave the factory with other algorithms. I hope it will be useful for others who are in my situation

Thanks both. Re. the longer run, it came on when the wife was driving to Carlisle. She re-set it when she was there, and then it did NOT come back on on her trip home. Re. getting it scanned, I have OBDeleven, so I'll try that at the weekend and see what it says.

It uses the sensor to see if the circumference / rotations changes up as well as down. So not just loss of pressure since being set. An increase can trigger the TPMS. And all tyres losing pressure might not trigger the TPMS.

Could be a failing bearing/ABS sensor/ABS ring or wiring. From memory the car uses info from ABS sensor to work out if a tyre is flat. Maybe worth getting it scanned in case a fault code is stored or if faulty which wheel/wheel sensor it is Alasdair

Are the pressures all correct if you stop as soon as you can when the warning shows. In a safe place. Check when hot that there is no sticking brake caliper or bearing going and the hub, wheel heating and a tyre expanding. The warnings are not always a loss of pressure / circumference.

Yes, I do this too 😁. its not the most annoying thing in the world to do but I wish it would remember last setting.

Auto hold on will apply the parking brake automatically. I find the ride great with dynamic chassis control. You might find it easier to put the drive modes permanently up on the screen so any mode is just a single touch away. I regularly use comfort, normal and sport rather than just stay in one mode. I’ve had Audis and BMWs before and love the Skoda but I personally enjoy being written off by brand snobs. I couldn’t care less and prefer to drive an under the radar vehicle

here what i find about skoda mk4 modifications via obdeleven one is my list of found modifications other is modifications for golf 8 that are part of them compatible with skoda obd skoda.docx Codierliste Golf 8 EN.pdf