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I have just disconnected the touch bar/volume slider using the instructions from this forum. So far it has fixed the issue. If it helps the exact steps I followed were: Remove long trim piece underneath screen. Start from the edge of the passenger side and pry the trim upwards. Each clip will then release with a bit of pressure. Remove the cover from the rear of the screen. This for me was the most difficult part. What worked was to gently pry one of the edges up and rock my pry tool up and down slightly until it unclipped. Unscrew the screen. 4x T20 screws holding it to the dash. Pull the screen forwards and tilt it down to gain access to the back. Unscrew the metal back cover of the screen. Without disconnecting anything, move the metal cover back and slide towards the dash along the cables. I.e. do not disconnect the two cables. Ensure the radio is currently playing (i.e. screen and media are ON) With the radio playing, identify the touch bar power ribbon using the images in this thread. Flip up the black catch holding the ribbon in and disconnect the ribbon. Ensure the radio is still playing and screen is still on. Reassemble Hope that helps!

A helpful summary. Printed with a couple of the photos in my glovebox ready for the point I can't put up with the weirdness anymore.

Success! Bought a new battery, and as soon as I fitted it, all of the warning lights disappeared. So, new wheel bearings, ball joints, track rod ends, ABS sensors and all looking good after a lock to lock reset. Had the tracking done, driven about 200 miles and everything seems to be in good order. Apologies for the tardy update, and massive thanks for the advice and encouragement. Cheers, Joe.

I went from a MK7 Golf with lots of tech and spec to a MK5 Golf when i came back to the UK. Then when I went for the skoda, i was able to get a newer car in a reasonable spec for the same price as a less than good con and higher mileage VW. Another example is my other half has a Scala, which is newer than mine but a lot of the parts like the brakes are off a mk4 golf! Plus no Electronic Park Brakes.

Dealer addressing the scaremongers about the cost of fixing a battery out of warranty.

Thanks all. Yes, it's indirect. The only thing that makes me hesitate to swap the ABS sensor, is that I'm not getting an ABS or ESC warning. One thing that might be worth me adding, is that over the winter, we had the winter tyres on, and there IS a very slow puncture in the right hand front tyre, so it was setting off the warning (quite legitimately) every few weeks. It still says the right hand front tyre is low, even now, that we have the summer tyres on, (and there's no loss of pressure), but it also alternates that with "TPMS fault".

Mines all ready now, collecting at the weekend

I can probably help if you get no response. I messaged you a day or two back. Have VCDS.

Have you tried running it with a full tank of UL+ - maybe even Esso, to see if this improves things while you are using it or even if this "goes" away after using a tank of UL+? I'm sure that my wife's 2015 Polo 6MT with that engine code ended up at round about 50,000miles, with a slight hint of that - that really worried me, but I loaded up with a full tank of UL+ Esso and it disappeared, car now at just over 59,000miles and excluding that tank full of UL+, is now back to fuelled with Costco UL. My wife's previous car - a 2002 Polo 1.4 75PS 5MT did have a bit of that, but after replacing the EGR valve - no change, MAP sensor - no change, oil separator - it ended up not being very good at trapping oil, it seemed to run better especially if I used UL+ in the tank. Horrible feeling when you have that! Edit:- what is the mileage?

Replying to my own post above - not a good start, no sign of the salesman when I went in. They wanted me to hang around as he'd be in soon, but then they said he'd been delayed so I left. Saw him when collecting the car - appt had been booked by someone else but not put his diary. Nothing changes with this dealer's admin! Anyway, he said Skoda are chucking money at non-EVs that can be registered this month (so by the end of the quarter). Around £6500 off an SEL, making it about £30K, £6800 off a Sportline, making it £32K. Valued ours at £16K. So a lot of money to change to basically the same thing.

Cars scanner reports worst cell pack voltage so don't know why more do not use it. Even with the Lithium NMC tech which is generally being replaced by LFP and soon Sodium is going to be widespread, both cheaper and safer, we mostly charge to 80% but once a month to 100% so the car can cell balance. In transportation batteries should be at their lowest state of charge without damaging the battery, provably about 15% true. Use of CO2 flooding used to starve conventional fires of oxygen but lithium battery fires, like any fire but especially lthium, need early detection and some cleverer thinking and approach, perhaps freezing gas containment by Nitrogen or another inert gas. Sure science has a way. Wonder what systems the new 9,300 car BYD ship has on it. As CMA we move 4m cars a year and are now oft using an electric truck to pull the car transporters. Tech will prevail.

So Porsche won the court case over the loss of the ship Felicity Ace, as it was impossible to be 100% sure that the fire started with one of their cars. There is no doubt, and it is not being denied by any of the experts, that the spread of the fire and not being able to put it out were due to the fact that EV cars were on board, as even sealing the decks and the complete flooding of those decks with CO₂ cannot stop the fire because the batteries are self-oxidising. It is also good to see that what's going on with Shipping Channel endorses the same channel that I watch, StacheD Training. Also, it's great to see that finally someone else also states the much-heralded fire blankets, which so many people believe put out these battery fires, do not do so because the batteries make their own oxygen and thus keep burning. They can, however, help prevent the spread of the fire, but not in ships or car parks because you cannot get the blanket over the fire because the other cars are too close. Nobody is attempting to say, for the avoidance of any doubt, that ICE cars do not also have risks associated with them, but it is an undeniable fact that the risks with EVs are of a much higher magnitude, especially when in such places as car parks of any type and transporters of any type because they will be in close proximity to other cars, and as more EVs are put on the roads, this risk is increasing.

I recently changed to the AA on my Volvo V70. My insurance went down £130 (to £223) by doing so. I did use the comparison sites, but also went direct to those not linked to them. No-one got anywhere close to the AA, so I presume they wanted my business. 2010 car, driving 46 years, full no claims. Gaz

Hi All, I received a detailed answer from Skoda Spain (we live there), here their answer: ================================================================ Hello Leo Kroonenburg, Thank you for contacting us. Thank you for your detailed inquiry regarding the battery capacity and charging management of your 2025 Škoda Kodiaq iV PHEV. Škoda confirms that the total battery capacity of the 2025 Kodiaq iV is 25.7 kWh, with a usable capacity of 19.7 kWh. This design includes buffer margins at both the lower and upper ends of the battery charge to protect against deep discharging and overcharging, which helps extend the battery’s lifespan. While the exact buffer values, such as the 3 kWh margin you mentioned, are not publicly specified, your understanding aligns well with the principle of these protective margins. The automatic reset to 80% charge after charging to 100% is a recommended feature intended to minimize the time the battery spends at full charge, thereby supporting battery longevity. This means the effective charge limit is indeed below the full physical capacity, consistent with expert advice that charging to around 70-80% helps preserve battery health. If you require further details on charging settings or battery management, we kindly suggest contacting your Škoda dealer for additional assistance. We appreciate your cooperation and understanding. If you have any further questions regarding this matter, please reply to this email. Please make a note of your case number 00460052. We also welcome you to contact us via: Email: [email protected] Phone: 00800 80 247 247 Website: www.skoda-auto.com Best regards, Skoda Email Template Logo ŠKODA Support for Digital Services ================================================================ This clears everything I think. Saludos, Leo

It’s a 2.0L TDI and it’s done 170,000 miles

Thank you Lee01 for moving me to the correct forum. Also, I made a sight mistake, the car is a 2015, not a 2016. CianKT, thank you. My knowledge is inadequate, I thought that the firewall was behind the engine. Your help is appreciated.

73/100 is provisionally sold pending full payment. Deposit received.

I agree with warrior its probably indirect so reckon failing abs sensor/bearing or perhaps wiring. I assume any break in signal from sensor would confuse system and put low pressure warning on. My old Seat used to randomly warn me but tyres were fine. Cause was a failing bearing and sensor. Alasdair

Op has not said whether vehicle has direct or indirect TPMS - more likely to be indirect, as direct type is usually a cost option. If indirect type, there aren't any sensor batteries as the TPMS data comes from the ABS wheel sensors.

As I say - your choice - but I've not yet seen any evidence of early failures at all. I generally keep my cars a long time (usually well over 100k miles - the last two have been 132k and 113k). I'm sure you are aware but a cambelt change on a TSI Petrol with ACT will not be far short of £1000 given the specialist nature of the kit required to re-time the cams, and other parts of the world haven't been reporting early failures within VAG's latest changed recommendation. On the other hand - what I have seen is reports of issues AFTER such cambelts have been changed... But as I noted - each to their own.

It does look like that the historic data that has been published everywhere that everyone keeps using to claim the electric cars, BEV and Hybrids are less likely to catch fire than ICE cars has finally been exposed as bogus. Something that I said a long time ago, was the fire depts and other authorities have not been recording the data correctly, if at all in some cases. Now NIST has investigated and exposed the figures as being massively wrong as this report shows. Guys, I'm just reporting what NIST has found, so don't shoot the messenger. Understanding the Risk of Lithium-Ion Battery Fires - multi-source data analysis

Sent in PM

Firmware: MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526_1_AIO_MU1440_20230504 2.12 GB file on MEGANo warrenty

GRACENOTE V24 https://mega.nz/file/oisyETLb#_O9j1BLcGZMqdeMefJ_P2JsvR9vdwPPx11-xZWTWaTw No warrenty

I got a call from our dealer yesterday noting that I'll be in next week and would I like to "touch base" with the salesguy who sold us our car? I'll remind him they promised to swap our Approved Used Karoq for a new one at a verbally agreed price that went out of the window when the new car arrived. It's my wife's car really and she hasn't gelled with the Karoq, and the I find the the Skoda dealer service staff a right arsy bunch. We were spoiled by how good the Tiguan, and (unusually) the VW dealer was that we had before.

I've just had the same 'service due, change the brake fluid / air con etc' on our July 2024 SEL - like the OP, we've only done 7k and haven't driven it hard let alone stopped hard and cooked anything - air con works as it did 2 years ago so I'm thinking I'll pass on the rinsing of my wallet, especially as I deliver and pick up the car and never take the loan vehicle they make enough out of me without the need to squeeze even more - so I'll let the brakes and air-con wait another year at least...... Curiously, I've just opened a email from the dealer offering me a great deal (their words) to 'upgrade' the Karoq, 2 years is the best time, apparently......!

Absolutely love this built, so much love and passion gone into Gandalf. He must be the happiest superb under sun 🌞 💪🏻

User setting / privacy and settings / and disable online personalisation

End of an era this car (2005 1.9tdi AVF Auto) has been a great servant but couldn't justify the money to keep it going. I replaced the rack earlier in the year as it had leaked at the inner tie rod seals, I think a loose boot on the tie rod allowed water in and the rust did the damage so could potentially have been prevented had I caught it on time. The new rack leaked after a few months and took out the pump so that spelled the end,was a pity becuase otherwise it was running well. Original engine and transmission untouched used no oil between changes normal servicing plus the usual door locks, 1 alternator rebuild, set of front wheel bearings, rear hubs and a tandem pump. Cheap motoring helped by some great knowledge from contributors on here, I got a 2017 2.0tdi DSG to replace it so hopefully it will serve me well.

VCDS Version 20.4.2 Engine- Advanced Measuring Values: IDE 00433- Oil ash volume IDE 00434- Soot mass calculated IDE 00435- soot mass measured IDE 06059- oil ash mass IDE 06060- filter ash load limit I hope it helps with your car and with your version of VCDS.

Mine was regenning once again straight after a 500 mile 120kph autoroute journey towing a 1400kg trailer VCDS showed 210kms since the last regen which means that despite the high revs, high load, high oil temperature it will already have regenned 3 times on the autoroute, the VAG emissions fix sucks!! Mine produces very little soot as the EGR is disabled by an emulator it regens on a measured 4-6g of soot, it will have been zero on the autoroute. Using VCDS I managed to tell it that it had a new DPF but all this will change is the oil ash volume figure should I choose to view it in VCDS, I also tried a couple of different adaptions those of the DPF pressure sensor and also another related sensor, I noticed afterwards that the calculated soot value had dropped to zero but it was rising before my eyes with the engine ticking over. There is one extreme measure that I am considering but I will only do it when I know I will be at base with a working computer & VCDS for an extended period you can actually switch off the automatic regens, I would like to do this and see exactly how many miles the car covers before the measured soot value reaches the pre "fix" threshold of 30g and then do a forced regen while driving. If it is as infrequent as I believe it will be then I would consider leaving it and doing a regen as part of periodic maintenance.

Thankyou so much Langers, that is the first reassurance I have had on the subject. I am doing long autoroute journeys towing very large frontage heavily loaded trailers, the engine is so loaded that the fuel consumption drops from the usual 55mpg to 28mpg, 500 miles on Saturday, almost every time I stopped for fuel or a pee the fans were running as they were on arrival, in urban driving it was regenning every 100 miles despite only showing 6g of soot, it seems the same is happening even when under constant passive regeneration over 500 miles. It's the fuel consumed in doing so that I begrudge. My UK neighbour has the same engine in an Octavia, he made sure to buy one that had not had the emissions "fix" done and has kept it that way, he does mainly short journeys now but has only ever heard the fan running on shutdown twice in several years.

I never found an official limit for the oil ash volume. On some forums they mention 175ml but plenty of folk have reported 200-250ml or even 300ml+. That suggests that nothing happens assuming it can still burn the soot off. I never saw much of a correlation between measured and calculated soot mass so that's completely normal. I don't think 'calculated mass' takes into account passive regen so it often much higher. The 45g limit only applies to soot mass, if it hits 45g it's no longer safe to regenerate so needs replacing or removing for cleaning. This is completely unrelated to the oil ash volume.

In my experience, when the DPF is that blocked it needs to be removed and cleaned. VTECH DPF cleaner has worked well for me in the past. https://garagewire.co.uk/news/game-changing-dpf-cleaner-is-a-profitable-solution/ My DPF does a regen once it reaches around 22g, I think the threshold for the DPF light is 30g, anything north of 45g is replace the filter (based on EA228 Diesel), so worth checking the specs for yours.

Update: Quite a lot has been done to the car but the issue still persists. Dealership changed : mechatronics, then after mechatronics didint help the whole dsg assembly, all of the mounts including subframe. After theese works the car drives much better, no more thug from 2 to 1. Also gear changes happen a lot quicker both in sport and in D mode. But partial throttle (around 25%) upshift from 3 to 4 is still noticable when shift happens in 1800-2200 rpm region, it looks like rpms jump in D3 right before going into D4 (all of the other gearshifts are not). Vibration trough steering wheel on D4, D5, D6 when going low speed high gear still persists from 1000 rpm till about 1400 rpm. Seriously considering selling the car as it was and still is an exhausting experience. Drove around 150 km now on the new gearbox hoping it would adapt but it hasnt so far 😶