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Yeah i like it a lot but have to say in sport its very loud inside😁 in drive it just purrs when you cruising but also pops on upshifts when you apply more throttle but more civilized... It works exactly same way like factory via mode selection or by tapping gear lever into sport...just one back box unit got blanked and other moved to centre box

Latest Updated Speedcams - May, 2021. My car has only just come back from a crash repair centre after two months of waiting so I've been unable to do any updates as I haven't had the ability to test them in a vehicle before posting them. So anyway, here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( May, 2021). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams May, 2021.zip

In the mk4 you can have the "full" manual only in Sport mode. In all other modes you can manually change a gear with the paddles. But as soon as you stop changing gears it switches back to D after a short period of time.

It does. The above explanation isn’t correct.

Ok. The misunderstanding is clear now. I always thought that IV (both capital) means mk4 and iV means hybrid version.

Its common in the VW group, you dont actually have TPMS, its just reading the rotation speeds of all the wheels over ABS, and if it senses a disagreement it will let you know.. That indicates you "might" have an air leak!

I recently bought this from aliexpress, very good quality

good news is the warp wasnt actually as bad as i thought. the axle nut had also loosened just enough to have it a bit weavy under load. and the warp was only the side wall of the rim. so, a quick straighten (ish) and tighten up of everything and it was alright this morning went the west side from The Cross today, down the fire break i had my off on last week. good blast, despite the wind abd the misty rain nice thing about alpkit leggings - rinsed em off in the shower before peeling them off, and theyl be dry and ready for tomorrow morning

Hi Jokkmokk This behaviour is normal for the 1.4 TSi. Under certain conditions of engine temperature, outside temperature and humidity, the engine management software uses a special mode to rapidly heat the exhaust catalyst. The idle speed is raised and the valve timing is altered, which gives the unusual exhaust note. In theory you can still drive off and use the car normally, but I find it is best to keep the engine below 2000 RPM to begin with or it becomes jerky. The alternative is to wait for a minute and play with the radio and seat settings, once the revs drop to normal you can move off. I mostly notice this behaviour when the car has been used in the morning and then left for a few hours. If I start up to go out in the afternoon when it is "half warm", I get fast idle mode.

Thought it was for the mkIV (mk4) tbh that's why i also posted my 2.0 TDI :P

The best one of these yet IMO:

2 very surprising points in this video! 1st point: Use an alloy wheel as a back-up???? This guy has really too much money! The large pieces of wood in the sealey guide is a much better idea! 2nd point: tightening the wheel screws in a row 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 is not the state of the art from a dully qualified mechanic. Rather use 1 / 3 / 5 / 2 / 4 for a better centering and to be sure the the wheel is correctly pressed against the brake disc.

And onto the next Bike/Project As some of you know I have just sold my 2020 BMW S1000R Sport last Week and have been scouring the Used Bike Market for something no replace it with, I had a shortlist of about 10 Bikes all differing in age and style of Bike. I had a 1999 Honda Fireblade a few Years back and always promised myself a 2006/2007 Model if the right example popped up and in the Red/Black Colour Scheme. In my opinion these are one of the best looking Fireblades with the Underseat Exhaust and Upside Down Forks, The Styling changed post 2008 and I have never been much of a fan of those later Bikes. Well last night the stars aligned and the right Bike in the right Colour located at a Dealership I know very well came up. Spotted the advert during my Break last night, Finished my Afternoon shift at 1am and drove up to Leeds this morning for when they opened as I have missed out on Bikes like this in the past so wasn't going to let it happen this time. Did all my usual poking around and for a 15 Year old Bike it has the usual very minor age related marks here and there but it really is superb and I had to remind myself of its age when I was been hypercritical. I decided I was having it and got the Deal I was happy with, The Bike is getting a Interim Service including Oil & Filter, Spark Plugs, Brake Fluids. They are removing the Datatool Alarm as they are a PITA and I hate them, They are Delivering the Bike and knocked £200 off the price. Happy Days! Comes at some point next Week so will be going straight into the Garage for some usual Bonelorry treatment. The Bike... 2006 Honda CBR1000RR-6 Fireblade, Last of the Lightweights 176KG/170BHP. No Electronics, No Rider Aids etc. 11300 Miles 4 Previous Owners Very good Service History with about 8 Stamps Has a few really nice extra's too Akrapovic Carbon Can with Titanium Link Pipe £700 Worth Genuine Colour Coded Rear Pillion Seat Cover Genuine Honda Tank Protector R&G Aero Frame Protectors Powerbronze Screen Rear Paddock Stand Bobbins Future Plans... The Bike is already very well prepared and is a credit to its previous owners but I want to go through it all. I want to replace the Front Screen for an MRA or something like that, The Powerbronze one fitted is showing its age. Replace the Paddock Stand Bobbins for some Evotech Items. Other than that just leave it alone and enjoy it, Obviously it will be for Summer use only and on a limited Mileage basis but I am planning on getting a Second Bike of similar age but that offers a totally different riding experience to keep my options open but we shall see. Couple of Dealership Images, Will post some fresh ones when I get the Bike...

hahah I know I don't want to be that guy ... what would you recommend with the suspension? il have a look into a rear anti roll bar

Had a good message exchange with ATD today as well and I have the same trim tool kit. I’m currently looking to source these to get the carpet under the pedals plat and in place. I’ve got a few orders in for other trim clips and various generic spares from other projects. But these are hard to find.

did you lower it? it drives like a 4X4 over speed bumps

I've changed all the suspension on mine and concentrated on handling since that's the weakness of the Fabia. Actually I've always spent the majority on brakes and handling because engine mods before turbos were mostly pointless.

iv driven it 500km in like 3 weeks just loving it! im enjoying doing the small diy jobs to it also and getting some experience with cars in general. Il have this car for a while as it only has 35,000 km on it so its reliable and basically new in terms of wear. Im also moving into my first place as im just finishing uni so thats where my money will be going for a while at least. I actually love the car, if only I had the vrs version it would be perfect. Iv seen some really cool rally style mk2s which have showed me the potential of the car with some small changes looks wise. What were some of the first things you did with your car or some things to avoid?

I discovered that today! Quite nice to have the flexibility once I got used to changing up so rapidly after a junction - whilst twirling the steering wheel. Found myself putting it back in D at those busy spots then in to S and using the paddles for full manual once out on the open road.

At minimum, the Tidy One owes Jade and Glynn a new shell each. Kudos to Jade for counting her limbs, and then worrying more about Glynn than about herself though.

I picked up my 2017 Skoda Superb Sportline 190 DSG in corrida red on Saturday. Standard Sportline spec plus electric tailgate and heated front seats. To say I'm delighted is an understatement.

Just to lighten the debate: Tonight, ITV4, 8pm, Historic G.P. Highlights See how it was really done back in the day

What can I say other than to confirm/agree everything @parsec82 said above. English is not my native language so I can't put together a such nice overview of the car. I have put a bit over 6000 km on the car and I enjoy every bit of it. I did have a couple of sw glitches in the 5 months of the ownership but nothing major.

@BarneyMike it's not expensive, if choose alternative https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/434028-tire-pressure-monitoring-system/?tab=comments#comment-4893182

Yes it is.

Ok help... I’ve got an induction kit for my Fabia, I was hoping it would look like this when fitted. But it kinda doesn’t... for a start it’s got a breather pipe I don’t know where to stuff, and if it fits one end it doesn’t fit the other. Or the MAF. I’m probably being thick here but it did say “universal” and came up multiple times on search so I went with it. So can someone please tell me where the heck I connect the damn breather to? If it wasn’t for that it would fit like this one above! Thanks in advance :-)

Nope, screen on back seat is held in place by a rod that attaches to the rear seat anchor point, divider part has feet that push on floor and roof. There is a fitting guide on the link I sent

Yup and yup Assuming you have 10 colours at the moment, the 11-30 adaption channels will be set to 0. As soon any are non-zero, it should use all 30 rather than 10. TBH, it's a bit of a pain to do this via VCDS as you need to change each adaption channel separately - If you just want the colours on the headunit, that's ~90 changes - If you have ambient lighting and want them to match, that's ~180 changes If you have the 'automatic' option, that's another ~5-8 changes to correct the preset for each driving mode too. When I did this, I made my own colourset by interpolating the extra colours between the stock values: I think I used VCDS scripter to help my sanity but it still needed a little bit of hand holding...

Going by some of the errors in the autoscan, I'd take a look at the CAN gateway or the BCM. Lots of communication errors. Two things to try first are clear all error codes and see what comes back, and unplug the aftermarket head unit and see if the car starts behaving itself again. Try one thing at a time.

VCDS is what VAG-COM used to be called. In LIN 2 some of the greens may need the blue toning down so make sure they are set by eye. Ambient light color list: Rotwert Farbe 1: 255 Gruenwert Farbe 1: 0 Blauwert Farbe 1: 0 Rotwert Farbe 2: 230 Gruenwert Farbe 2: 0 Blauwert Farbe 2: 0 Rotwert Farbe 3: 242 Gruenwert Farbe 3: 80 Blauwert Farbe 3: 10 Rotwert Farbe 4: 230 Gruenwert Farbe 4: 100 Blauwert Farbe 4: 30 Rotwert Farbe 5: 230 Gruenwert Farbe 5: 160 Blauwert Farbe 5: 30 Rotwert Farbe 6: 255 Gruenwert Farbe 6: 190 Blauwert Farbe 6: 0 Rotwert Farbe 7: 230 Gruenwert Farbe 7: 230 Blauwert Farbe 7: 0 Rotwert Farbe 8: 210 Gruenwert Farbe 8: 238 Blauwert Farbe 8: 11 Rotwert Farbe 9: 210 Gruenwert Farbe 9: 255 Blauwert Farbe 9: 0 Rotwert Farbe 10: 170 Gruenwert Farbe 10: 255 Blauwert Farbe 10: 20 Ambience_lightning_color_list_2: Rotwert Farbe 11: 60 Gruenwert Farbe 11: 255 Blauwert Farbe 11: 30 Rotwert Farbe 12: 0 Gruenwert Farbe 12: 235 Blauwert Farbe 12: 30 Rotwert Farbe 13: 0 Gruenwert Farbe 13: 235 Blauwert Farbe 13: 110 Rotwert Farbe 14: 50 Gruenwert Farbe 14: 255 Blauwert Farbe 14: 140 Rotwert Farbe 15: 0 Gruenwert Farbe 15: 225 Blauwert Farbe 15: 160 Rotwert Farbe 16: 0 Gruenwert Farbe 16: 225 Blauwert Farbe 16: 200 Rotwert Farbe 17: 0 Gruenwert Farbe 17: 200 Blauwert Farbe 17: 255 Rotwert Farbe 18: 0 Gruenwert Farbe 18: 160 Blauwert Farbe 18: 255 Rotwert Farbe 19: 0 Gruenwert Farbe 19: 120 Blauwert Farbe 19: 255 Rotwert Farbe 20: 10 Gruenwert Farbe 20: 90 Blauwert Farbe 20: 255 Rotwert_Farbe_21: 30 Gruenwert_Farbe_21: 40 Blauwert_Farbe_21: 255 Rotwert_Farbe_22: 65 Gruenwert_Farbe_22: 30 Blauwert_Farbe_22: 255 Rotwert_Farbe_23: 120 Gruenwert_Farbe_23: 30 Blauwert_Farbe_23: 255 Rotwert_Farbe_24: 195 Gruenwert_Farbe_24: 30 Blauwert_Farbe_24: 255 Rotwert_Farbe_25: 220 Gruenwert_Farbe_25: 0 Blauwert_Farbe_25: 255 Rotwert_Farbe_26: 255 Gruenwert_Farbe_26: 0 Blauwert_Farbe_26: 255 Rotwert_Farbe_27: 255 Gruenwert_Farbe_27: 0 Blauwert_Farbe_27: 115 Rotwert_Farbe_28: 255 Gruenwert_Farbe_28: 40 Blauwert_Farbe_28: 90 Rotwert_Farbe_29: 255 Gruenwert_Farbe_29: 90 Blauwert_Farbe_29: 70 Rotwert_Farbe_30: 240 Gruenwert_Farbe_30: 110 Blauwert_Farbe_30: 100

The Leyo are held in place with a grub screw mechanism that doesn't damage the original paddles I managed to get some used ones on eBay for £40 last week and really impressed with them.

If no paint had come out after 15minutes, can I ask how small the hole it the bucket is? I ask as it sounds like your paint is in fact clotted cream 😂

I did it with a black sticker in egypt it cost around (200 EGP= 10 euros)

It was the fuel pump control module which sits just above the tank. just follow the wires from fuel pump to under the opening for the fuel pump below the rear seat. There is a youtube video for a golf tdi but it is exactly the same.

If you're having trouble and it's under warranty still, I'd get it into the dealer

There’s this but is quite expensive… http://www.kopacek.com/Skoda/KODIAQ/Kodiaq-heavy-duty-rubber-rear-trunk-cargo-floor-mat-with-car-silhouette-7-seater or you could just reverse the raised floor cover to its rubber side

I just think Lewis applies himself differently which makes him a world beater. He has his haters, but so did Schumi. I’m no fanboy of his but our mothers were best friends at primary school in the 60s. They’re still in touch and Lewis’ mom described how they had absolutely nothing while he was young so a nice story really, not unlike the paid drivers like Mazespin and others which is what is completely wrong with F1 today but like camelspyder says, it’s a business not a sport.

I've had five DQ200's (7 speed dry clutch)and four of those required warranty work. The last one a Mk3 Octavia had £5500 worth of warranty work on the DSG. But I've just bought another and it will be covered by warranty. I wouldn't have one without. I've also had three DQ250 (6 speed wet clutch) DSG's and yes you need a service every 40k miles on these but over 200k miles and not a single issue.

Thanks 😊 No TSR, only DLA. TSR is an FeC now so that’s the next step for me to activate as well as pACC.

I think in English its called ,,ricer,,😁 You are of course entitled to opinion and i absolutely get that it may not be everyone's cup of tea ( my missus is one of them😆) don't worry no offence taken😎 To my defence...i bought superb sportline 280 for what it is...quickest Skoda and only thing that is missing in my eyes is louder exhaust. On the few occasions i do put it in Sport mode i really do want to have more exhaust note. Otherwise deep note of exhaust with closed valves will be fine with me... If i wanted quiet car i would bought L&K

looks awesome

Hi, I've got Columbus MIB2 in my car. Updates have worked repeatedly without a hitched. I've installed the map and camera updates several times, without reinstalling/enabling the POIs specifically. You do need to tick the option for the audible tone to be heard, but once enabled you should get warnings of nearby cameras regardless of what the centre console is displaying. ie. doesn't need to be on map mode. Note you will hear the tone as soon as you're within range of a camera, but doesn't necessarily mean one is on the same road as you. I have several local ones near me which I don't drive directly past - they're just up off on side roads people try to use for cut through - I get the warning tone even though I stick on the main road. Presumably they're all close enough for the tone to still trigger as I pass by. Just note the volume of the tone can by turned up and down by accident. I've had a number of occasions where one's triggered just as I've been adjusting the volume on the radio. The next tone has then either been noticeably louder or quieter. I've found the trick is to drive close to one and turn the volume the opposite way just as the warning triggers. Probably not easy to do on regular main roads, but on a stretch of (not so) Smart motorway near me it's a doddle as there are several in swift succession.

Finally got round to fitting the S3 front brakes and wow what a difference they make. I was a little concerned if they would fit or not, but can confirm they fit under 17 inch zenith with 5mm to spare.

Petrol DSG 🤘

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-1m-x-40cm-SEMI-RIGID-HD-HDPE-7mm-PLASTIC-MESH-SCREEN-FILTER-RIDDLE-BARRIER-/292241421165?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 It was a bit of a pain to fit. When I went to fit the grille I realised there is very little extra room for tolerance, so I had to trim the mesh as tight as possible and use an 18watt soldering iron to plastic weld it together, I spent a lot of time doing the trimming and plastic welding, because after all the effort of fitting it back in the bumper and getting the bumper back together, I don't want the mesh to come apart in the wind at high speed, so I made sure this was as strong as possible a bond. I didn't want to use metal mesh because paint would just chip off it and it would rust over time.

I don't know much about the gen2 CZZ engines but I believe they are very different compared to the gen3 so I don't think there are any useful similarities between them. I believe the addition of MPI on the US MK7 is psossible only because the rest of the world's MK7 come with MPI from factory so even the US cars have the "infrastructure" built-in from factory (the receptions for port injectors) that are just not used on the US cars (and on the 2019 DNU cars). So all it takes is the injectors kit and the tuning. But I have on idea if the CZZ has anything like that built-in.

Decided to take the path towards silence, started with doors and bonnet. The result was impressive - doors are now silent while driving (before that you could hear the road noise and cars passing by) and the music is clear and crisp. A few tips from my side: 1. Start with removing the window switch panel, if you take the door card off before doing so removing the connectors will be a pita. 2. Wear light gloves otherwise your hands will look like of a junkie (cuts and bruises) Will be doing the rear arches, boot floor and tailgate next.

Can I just say for reference (from the start of the thread) when inspecting the wires in the rubber door boots, given the correct squeeze or gentle persuasion with a screwdriver, the white plastic clip will come away from the pillar with the rubber boot still sealed over it. This way the whole boot with clip just pops in and out in seconds, no wrestling to get the boot back over the clip