So I installed a NextBase 322 dashcam using the posts here as a guide. It’s a brand new camera, new sdcard and new hardwire kit all from NextBase. 
 

I have found one minor niggle in that it appears that when the battery is low on charge and the auto start stop system kicks in the NextBase camera reboots. 
 

I was wondering if there’s a better fuse perhaps to tap from that may not cut out during the ignition cycle. 

Many after market dashcams are set to switch off when the ignition is turned off/stops receiving the 12v feed.. You can sometimes change this setting in the cameras menus to allow the camera to continue to record for a period of time.

50 minutes ago, Stonekeeper said:

Many after market dashcams are set to switch off when the ignition is turned off/stops receiving the 12v feed.. You can sometimes change this setting in the cameras menus to allow the camera to continue to record for a period of time.

 

This is true, but unfortunately, Skoda, in their wisdom, have decided that all 3 (at least in my car), are permanently live. If I were to plug my dashcam into the front socket it would never turn off unless I pulled out the plug. Also, if I plug the dashcam into a usb socket, all that I get is a message saying that the dashcam is trying to connect to the 'computer'. I solved this by buying a power only usb c cable. Another issue is that I use a fridge on holiday, and having once, many yearsago, flattened the battery by my kids failing to unplug it overnight, I now use a lead which monitors the supplied voltage and switches the fridge off when the engine stopped and the supply voltage falls.

Edited 23 October, 20232 yr by Routemaster1461

45 minutes ago, Oli said:

I was wondering if there’s a better fuse perhaps to tap from that may not cut out during the ignition cycle. 

I used the rear wiper fuse on my Yeti, that was ignition switched fine. Have you tried that one ? I'd expect the rear wiper to still function when stop/start was in stop mode.

I attempted similar on my mates Peugeot and found on that the rear wiper was only 12v when the wiper was activated on the steering arm. As if the fuse was after the switch on that Peugeot. Not very useful to only have a dashcam work when the rear wiper was activated. So I had to probe about with a multimeter to find a fuse that switched just with the ignition switch. I found one in the end.

So I guess I'd recommend trying the same, measure across fuse positions and find which can give you a 12v feed only when required.

Edited 23 October, 20232 yr by aubrey

I would prefer to convert my 12v sockets to switched, is this not possible. 

 

 I would of thought just a matter of connecting the 12v socket cable to an unused switched fuse?? 

Everything runs on CanBus these days. The cars are wired in a specific way and expect certain power levels on certain wires and parts of the loom. 
 

To change your aux socket to something else isn’t as easy as swapping a wire. 

I realise canbus can react negatively to changes being made but surely changing a device from permanent to switch isnt changing voltage levels, 

 

Its just stopping the device being active after engine switches off

 

Correct.

I had similar issues with my NextBase dashcam but solved it with a 12v to 5v convertor from Amazon AITRIP 2 PCS Double USB Car Converter Module 12V to 5V 3A 15W Power Adapter DC to DC Reduced Voltage Regulator Car Power Converter Output Power Adapte: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo and hardwired this into the fusebox by connecting it to a ignition switched fuse so that when I start the car, dashcam and my TomTom satnav both automatically boot up and shut down again when the ignition is switched off.

 

The dashcam has an option to switch off after a short time delay after the supply is switched off, this I set to 10 seconds, the TomTom automatically does the same after 15 seconds of the power being killed. The convertor I fitted behind the glovebox and the power cords I ran behind trim pieces  and routed into a space behind the dash, by the passenger door and plugged into the convertor.

I know this has been done to death, but I am after a small piece of information about hard wiring a dash cam please.

 

My dash cam is a Garmin 55 and has the parking mode wiring kit with it, I understand that fuse 47 is the best on to use for the switsched supply, but I also need a permanent supply for the park mode function,

Can someone please advise which fuse I would need to piggy back for a permanant live.

Thanks
Phil

23 minutes ago, pgp001 said:

I know this has been done to death, but I am after a small piece of information about hard wiring a dash cam please.

 

My dash cam is a Garmin 55 and has the parking mode wiring kit with it, I understand that fuse 47 is the best on to use for the switsched supply, but I also need a permanent supply for the park mode function,

Can someone please advise which fuse I would need to piggy back for a permanant live.

Thanks
Phil

Sorry to be a pain but are you positive about the Dashcam being a Garmin 55? Does it have any other name, like Garmin cam 55 for instance. I have searched around and all I can find is a Garmin Drive 55 which is a sat nav, and a Garmin Forerunner 55 which a sports watch?

 

Hold everything, I have found it, it is called a Garmin Dash Cam 55 

 

Edited 29 January, 20242 yr by Graham Butcher

Here you go.......
https://www.garmin.com/en-GB/p/567282

https://www.garmin.com/en-GB/p/587564/pn/010-12530-03
 

https://www8.garmin.com/manuals/webhelp/dashcam45-55/EN-US/GUID-E61F9D8E-687F-4AFD-802D-9C920E1A8A58-homepage.html

 

I have just removed it from my Yeti that I traded in against the karoq.

Edited 29 January, 20242 yr by pgp001

14 minutes ago, pgp001 said:

Here you go.......
https://www.garmin.com/en-GB/p/567282

https://www.garmin.com/en-GB/p/587564/pn/010-12530-03
 

https://www8.garmin.com/manuals/webhelp/dashcam45-55/EN-US/GUID-E61F9D8E-687F-4AFD-802D-9C920E1A8A58-homepage.html

 

I have just removed it from my Yeti that I traded in against the karoq.

Sorry, but I don't have any other info about your car's electrical system, so I'm unable to offer you any further assistance.

For what its worth here is how I got on with the providing power to my Next Base Dashcam. I intended to use one of the NextBase hardwire kits - either Piggy Back into fuse box or the OBD  port. Initially I went down the fusebox route; finally getting the glovebox off to get access to the fusebox, partially removing the side panel with the Airbag switch in it. I decided to go with the OBD power lead for the following reasons; the routing for the lead to the Dashcam is the same for both (up behind the 'A' pillar, along the top of the screen behind the headlining, but access on the drivers side where the OBD port is is much better and also doesn't require messing with the side panel with the Airbag switch, additionally the OBD port kit doesn't require finding and earthing point. Under the steering column there is a mini glovebox this is easily removed and provides access behind and above the OBD port - I left some slack on the lead from the OBD port so that the inline fuse was accessible by removing the mini glovebox.

 

A note about removing and refitting the side panel - one side is fitted behind the rubber door seal, the other curved side has 4 or 5 clips that push into the dashboard. Removing is simply a matter of prizing the clips out and then sliding the panel up 10 mm before lifting it out from behind the rubber door seal. Refitting wasn't quite as easy I ended up getting all the clips lined up with their respective holes, pushing them in with the other side sitting on the rubber seal, then using a plastic trim tool the rubber seal i eased over the edge of the side panel. Putting the side under the rubber seal first  seemed to prevent the clips from aligning with the holes.

What connector did you use to connect to the OBD socket ?

Halford's sell a next base obd power supply for dascams

 

he might have purchased one of them

 

https://www.halfords.com/technology/dash-cam-accessories/nextbase-obd-power-cable-825926.html

I bought the NextBase OBD hardwire kit from Halfords, it’s £25, but £19.99 online from NextBase. The cable comes out of the side of the connector that pushes onto the OBD port. If you wanted to use m OBD scanner the dashcam power lead would have to be disconnected.

Edited 29 April, 20242 yr by thamestrader

Hi everyone.

Since I never did anything similar in practice, and this Karoq  is my first personal car, I'd say I'm a beginner in car electronics, and I would appreciate any advice from experienced members on how to hardwire the cam to the fuse box.
I found previous comments on this thread very useful, like having in mind the Airbag on the A pillar etc.
After (let's hope so) successful wiring process, I plan to share my experience with pictures and a tutorial here, for other members.


Yesterday I bought the 70mai Dash Cam Omni 360°  dash cam.

It has a lot of various features (24H Smart Surveillance, AI Motion/Collision Detection, Built-in GPS, ADAS, Route Tracking) but they are working ONLY if you connect the cam with a hardwire kit to the fuse box (It also has the option of 4G hardwiring, which enables you to track the vehicle via 4G SIM, but i think that's a overkill for me  ).

The manufacturer has some YouTube tutorial on how to connect it, but I read in the comments section that that's the wrong way to do it (since the instructor is directly connecting the hardwire to the car fuses without any piggy back adapters).

I found this video on YouTube useful for overall understanding of the hardwiring process.

I plan to use this wiring path 1 and path 2 to run the wire from the cam to fuse.

So, here's the Karoq manufacturer fuse box schematics and here is the photo of my own fuse box (sorry if its a bit blurry)

I guess I could test the fuses with a current tester or multimeter device, but I'm curious to listen to your advice which fuses to pick from the picture?

Again, for the Dash cam parking module and other stuff to work, I need to have one BAT live connection, one ACC accessory power connection. The only think I'm sure of is the Ground connection

Thank you all! 

I have found this installation guide really useful.

 

We are looking to install a dash cam - I have looked at Currys and Halfords and then found a review site https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/best-dash-cam/  which recommended a Viofo A229 Pro 3Channel - https://viofouk.co.uk/product/viofo-a229-pro-3ch-4k-2k-1080p-hdr-dash-cam/.  The User Manual can be found here https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=viofo+a229+manual on the dashcamguide website.

 

I like this dashcam as it has a 4k forward camera.  I also require a rear view camera.

 

Has anyone installed such a camera?  Does anyone have views on the viofo brand?

 

The camera requires a microSD card.  Viofo have their own brand which labelled as Industrial Grade https://viofouk.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/viofo-256gb-industrial-grade-microsd-card-u3-a2-v30-high-speed-memory-card-with-adapter-support-ultra-hd-4k-video-recor.jpg but I usually buy SanDisk - so I am looking at a SanDisk Extreme Pro https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09X7DMBVF/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?pd_rd_i=B09X7DMBVF&pd_rd_w=Co69Q&content-id=amzn1.sym.46187d6a-4306-4bc6-830c-7b2085e0e39f&pf_rd_p=46187d6a-4306-4bc6-830c-7b2085e0e39f&pf_rd_r=46J1FW02SFACQ490VQVZ&pd_rd_wg=K841Y&pd_rd_r=c666a339-046a-4ede-b29d-998def95a029&s=computers&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw&th=1

 

What quality of Sandisk does anyone else use?

 

I require at least 12 hours continuous recording, hence selecting 256gb.  What size memory cards does anyone use - size of card, camera resolution, and how many houirs covered?

 

I plan to use the 12v cigarette style socket intially so as to be able to keep the dash cam operating in parking mode, i.e. parked in car park, engine off etc.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Hi again,

small update regarding my last post here. 

I tried to piggyback hardwire the 70mai Omni Dash cam yesterday in order to have Smart Surveillance, AI Motion/Collision Detection etc.
I used the blue fuse in slot 47 (rear wiper) for ACC wire, and  yellow fuse from slot 40 (12v output in the rear seat) for BAT wire, and for GND i used the bolt screw.
I got the power and been able to turn on the camera, but I still wasn't able to use the camera features. In other words, the hardwire connection was basically the same as connecting to USB socket, the only difference was that I had the battery powering the camera when the car is off. 

Not sure where to go from here. 😐
I'll try to get help from the official ŠKODA service if I don't find anything that could be helpful online.

Edited 24 June, 20241 yr by Animaki

Hi Guys, thanks to all the previous posters. You encouraged me to go check what the 'professional' installers did when they put the camera in my 2023 140 Sportline Karoq here in Melbourne.

I am really glad I did as they had just fed the cable up inside the A pillar trim, and it was right across the side curtain airbag.

So I am now in the process of putting that right. My camera is an Azdome M300S which I would not recommend as although the picture quality is pretty acceptable the camera has a number of issues with GPS lock, voice commands and general inconsistances which make it cheap but a pain. Not worth it IMO. I use the official Azdome kit and now the car is a a couple of years old the AGM battery voltage falls rapodly to around 12.2V which effectively makes the parking camera feature useless, unless you want to pull the battery down to 12 or 11.8V when parked, which for me is a bit near the knuckle for longterm airport parking.

Result of all this is I'm going to go back to using the USB-C connector near the mirror and strip out the car kit.

Attached are some pictures of the A pillar and the trim. You can see it is clipped, but also pegged to the pillar. So it has to be pulled straight out, starting at the top. And it requires smallish hands and considerable force. Good luck! I am not looking forward to refitting it!

All
Many thanks for really helpful questions, advice, experience and guides.
I just fitted a Nextbase 322GW to a 2022 (pre-face lift) Karoq, and the advice was incredibly helpful.

A couple of things:
Firstly, I opted to piggy-back use off a permanent live fuse (#40 12 volt power outlets). I wasn't sure, but used a live fuse as the Nextbase advice is that their dash cam and hard-wire kit should protect the car battery, if the dash cam is set to 'Parking mode On'. If it was a bad idea, i'll update. I can easily change to a switched fuse #47 (rear wiper) if folk on this forum think use of a permanent live is a bad idea !
(I liked the idea of having the parking mode on and available as i park on street.)

https://support.nextbase.com/hc/en-gb/articles/4405439119121-Permanent-Power-vs-Switched-Power

https://support.nextbase.com/hc/en-gb/articles/360006862138-Will-my-Dash-Cam-drain-my-car-battery

Secondly, location for fitting the ferrite core interference suppressor: I ended up fitting the ferrite core on the cable at the end near the glove/ fuse box, as there is plenty of space behind the side plate (with child seat air-bag switch). I'm aware the advice is 'closer to the camera' is best, but then there is a heavy(ish) weight pulling the cable from the head lining and a lump on the cable near the rear view mirror just doesn't look very nice (IMV).
Does anyone have good or bad experience with fitting the 'ferrite core' further away from the camera ?
I've only just done it, so is too early to tell.

thanks again.

Edited 17 April, 20251 yr by Fred-Flintstone

I can’t help with the ferrite core question sorry.

Following how yours goes though. I have a 322GW camera that I have piggybacked onto a switched power line and despite that being meant to be live when driving it goes off occasionally (I think) with the auto start/stop and annoys me.

I am considering switching to a perm live like you and putting it on parking mode.

Hi.

Lets just say it's been a while since I've posted on here. I do pop in and peruse the forums though.

I've just moved on from my '18 Edition to a '74 Sportline. I've got a Nextbase 522 that I took out the Edition (to which I used this very thread years ago to help with the install) and have now installed in the Sportline. I thought I'd wired it into a permanent live (with parking mode) in the fusebox but on the way into work this morning it threw a proper wobbly when the start/stop kicked in.

Unfortunately I can't be 100% sure on which fuse I used and won't be able to check until I'm home later. I did see a few comments saying the fuse box layout has changed, so I'm wondering what fuse to choose. The car is ex-demo and has the winter pack plus, the convenience pack and leather seats so I'm presuming a few more fuses than normal.

I don't really care about the parking mode TBH, I just want it to work. Or do I just forget about the fuse box and get a small mini USB to USB C connector and connect to the socket behind the rear view mirror?

When you say it threw a wobbly, I assume that it switched from displaying the speed to a live feed display of the road? This what happens with with my Nextbase 622GW and apparently it is caused by the dip in supply voltage when the Starter kicks in. The good thing however is the camera continues to record and is not affected by the change in display. This will happen regardless of the fuse you are connected to.