All Activity

I have a klunk when changing gear (mainly low speed) and slightly when lifting off the gas. Diff shafts seal area’s are leaking slightly on both sides. In my limited knowledge and based on the below video I’m thinking stub axels and or diff bearings but I would like advice before buying the parts. The video is both drive shafts grabbed at the box and twisted back and forth. IMG_6242.mov

Can we recap please and be clear. What engine and DSG has @Cqrmine Is it a DQ200 Twin Dry Clutch or a DQ381 Twin Wet Clutch DSG., & fitted engine?

@RenSkoda How about doing 40 mph in 3rd gear then?

Hey! Have a soft bricked unit, stuck on boot logo. So bought a UART-TTL adapter and used some tweezers to short 2 points on circuitboard, can get into emergency menu but it does not want to load emergency update. Have my previous firmware on SD card inserted. If I keep tweezers in place the emergency menu pops up, then "boot stopped", followed by emergency menu and so on. Removing tweezers directly after menu pops up, then pressing "2" does not work either. And reboot after pressing "2" does not work, see screenshot. Always get the "loading emergency updater" but then it always continues boot with "Welcome to QNX .." message, at the end it runs some shutdown script and I'm left with "Shutdown complete" message in Putty terminal window. So anyone have any experience with this? If you need more info just say the word.

Sounds very much like the drive shaft splines need to be re-glued. (Yes! Glued!) I've had MEB cars for over 5 years and this issue has been raised a number of times on various forums. There is a clicking sound from the rear when moving off (forward or reverse) and when going over to full re-gen. The splines on the drive shafts have movement caused by the adhesive used on them failing. All cases I've heard about have been covered by warranty or extended warranty. Worth a Google.

Škoda StoryboardThe new Škoda Slavia features a refreshed look and an exc...Škoda Auto has unveiled the updated Slavia sedan in India. The design changes give the car a fresher, more dynamic look. A special feature will be a new, exclusive colour for a limited edition of 500

Only codes that come up are for ‘Random misfire’ according to my garage. It’s never had an engine light come on for it. Just judders and lurches between 15-1800RPM. Typically most detectable when doing 40 mph in 4th gear.

Here's what I got with a plate of welders mask glass taped to my Pixel 9a

Agree - I’ve not detected any clutch slip when creeping, if trying to creep up a steep hill maybe there would be slip. My 2.0 TSI defaults to pulling away, if it can, in 2nd gear and that does require a small amount of clutch slip- its quite obvious to the driver as engine revs and speed are mismatched- quite different to creep.

I've had two generations of Bose Quiet Comfort for many more years than I can remember and been really pleased with their comfort and performance. The current Bluetooth capable ones make using them easier and have impressive range.

It's probably less wear than on a manual clutch because the car is doing it not the driver,

Oh dear, does that cause damage or is it engineered to withstand it?

The transmission will be slipping the clutch - there is no extra low gear for 'creeping'

I would suggest taking a good look at the switch and the starter solenoid, very likely to let you down in the future.

I have, but wanted to get it running first! 😆

Have you considered fitting hood gas struts to that lovely beast?

Thank you guys! I've got a small update. It turned out to be uncleaned battery leads. After brushing the clamps with some sandpaper the car starts reliably now. There is a occasional hiccup at the start position though. I turn the key, hear constant buzzing when holding the key at the START (not the ignition prime) and nothing else happens. It's so rare that I won't bother for now

Morning all. Have a new issue I thought I would run by you to see if anybody has had similar.... 2021 Enyaq 60 with 110k miles. Have recently had starting a 'clicking' noise when moving away from a standing start and then when breaking. Almost sounds like a relay opening/closing. Strangely enough, if you pull away VERY slowly, it does not do it. Car is at the dealer for a number of issues but, on this one (no diag done by 5 on Monday but completed by 11 yesterday), it has been declared as a major job requiring 10 hours of labour to power down, remove gearbox and carry out repair. All very vague at the moment and have asked for a breakdown of parts required. Quote for the repair is £3,300 !!! My initial enquiry is whether anybody has had similar please?? If this needs to be done, then so be it, but a bit miffed that a 4 year old car with (relatively) not high mileage, requires an expensive repair like this !! Will add to my post if/when I get an update of requirements.... Thanks in advance, Paul

Can you say if the car is slipping clutches while creeping or is there an ultra low gear in operation as I seem to recall reading of? Going back to the dealer Monday for a further run through of the settings. When I asked about some settings last week he would say: " Oh don't bother about that, I never use it" or "that will come up automatically" (it didn't, it has to be set with a tick.) I need to know if features such as emergency braking are turned on. I don't want to find out the hard way. I suspect he didn't know the answers. Thanks again.

Diagnosed as pressure sensor at dealer, £310 to supply and fit.

Had to spend a bit of time cleaning up bearing socket on my sons. Especially the grooves it clicks into due to corosion. Fairly easy to do with the correct puller. Couldnt get ABS sensor out without destroying it. Give it a good soak with penetrating oil for a day or two and you will hopefully be lucky. Alasdair

The heat pump is £1150 or thereabouts for a small increase in overall efficiency. Maybe 10-15 miles extra range in winter? £1000 buys a hell of a lot of electricity, so the heat pump is poor value.

Maybe check engine bay fuse box for loose contacts/corosion/relays and all earth points you can find. as the wiring is new and so is valve. Alasdair

Odd it does it at cold start. Wonder if its a poor connection somewhere thats bad when cold and when warm it expands making better contact or perhaps cranking cold engine is dropping voltage too low and causing errors. Check battery voltage when cold cranking? Hope you get to the bottom of it Alasdair

Finally, it lives. First start and test drive complete no obvious leaks and its does feel better to drive. Something we both noticed was previously the engine was hunting and canting back and forth a bit, that’s all gone as is an odd noise it was making. I feel like that could well have been the head lifting and gasses escaping so something to look out for. First drive and everything was working getting heat in the cabin and all seems well. Left it at the shed last night on the 4 post to just confirm no leaks but all being well it’ll be back on the road and with luck all my issues will be resolved and I shall close out the thread at that point. IMG_9100.mov