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I have had the same problem for the last 4-5 weeks. Every morning after driving the car & coming to the first set of tafffic lights, I am promoted to "update applications". It doesn't specify which applications but after 20 minutes I have a notification that. Registration is updated User manual is updated Application is updated Some applications won't be available until the vehicle is restarted... Originally I thought it was just multiple updates 1 after the other that have been released by Skoda. However after it didn't stop, I have been checking the versions of all of the applications & the shop application id always on the same version afterwards. I'm fairly sure the installation is failing each time. Did anyone resolve it? I'm sure a service around November so will ask them to fix it then but would be great if I could fix it myself before.

Hi. I have a 2021 Skoda Superb iV and I'd like to change the front 12V cigarette lighter socket so that it only comes on when the ignition is turned on. Having read some articles I believe I should be able to move the fuse for the socket to another location, but I'm not sure what fuse to move, and to where. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Not going back through this thread but it seems that ULEZ was about clean air and healthier people and not a money making scam after all. "Scientists 'stunned' by children's lung recovery in ultra low emission zone" https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/c1l1r1zne1ro https://edition.cnn.com/2026/08/19/health/london-ulez-lung-health-study-scli-intl https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2026/aug/18/ulez-hardest-decision-mayor-london-impact-sadiq-khan

With auto-hold , the release of the brakes is pretty instant , I would think its just a solenoid holding the brake pressure. The problem may be that it doesnt release until the throttle is applied, but initially when the brake is on, the ECU will prevent any throttle input going to the engine. So if, in the short delay before the brakes come off, the throttle is pushed further, then a larger throttle input is applied when the ECU actually sees the brakes off and causes the perceived possible jerkiness!.

It’s a weird one guys. Sounds like it comes from both front and rear wheels, sounds like rattling suspension. Taken to Skoda last week, nothing wrong apparently, even had to pay £100 for the trouble. Checked for suspension transport blocks and top mounts for they reported all is fine. It’s driving us mad which is such a shame as we absolutely love the car apart from this issue. Any advice would be greatly appreciated 2025 Sportline 1.5 MHEV covered 16k miles.

It's to stop water getting dripping down. So I would keep a look out for another part. I also used some vaseline on the part that clips in to make it easier to remove next time.

Hi, how did you end up solving that problem? I have the exact same issue.

Just stumbled upon this, but seems not to have been resolved, so got curious. I'm a bit confused as the subject were "Lane assist coding" and ends with "VZE" and Traffic sign recognition. Having a Superb 3V, MY23 with 2Q0 camera, I know that Lane Assist can be done, but also pretty sure Traffic sign is not possible with pure coding if camera is a 2Q0 ( somebody please correct me ). The below pictures are a translate of A5 long coding, to pick out the right bit to change - hope it helps. It't based on the previous link https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/12881/superb-2020-assist-coding-procedure

# ECE 2026.06 29.2 Gb version":{"major":1167955,"minor":26030,"build":1},...,"catalog_version":52 261E0 Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P177_EU_202630_Offline_Update.zip Files inside: 2026.05.27 Downloadable: 2026.08.19 Published: 2026.--.-- # ROW 2026.06 - - - Previous threads: -> 2026.02 -> 2025.02-06 -> 2024.06

Thanks for your reply Paul. I forgot to mention that the sound stops immediately as soon as I lightly press the brake pedal. Tyres in good shape.

HI, recently purchased a VRS with 102K on it. Nice car, pleased with it. I do have a question about oil consumption. I checked the oil when purchased and was where it should be on the dipstick. After 2,000 miles it is only just touching the bottom of it. Too excessive for 2,000 miles? Also, I checked the manual but cannot seem to find the spec of oil in Halfords, or similar. What is the usual go to spec oil please in layman's language. Thank you in advance

@Ianhar You are doing lots of miles so is the car getting charged daily and running on electron and petrol. Do you start runs on petrol and save the battery for use later or how do you work it? Allowing it to warm up is maybe doing no favours as far as oil / petrol use compared to start it and go and do not boot it until engine oil temp is up a bit.

Since when is it possible to access all partitions of the emmc via QNX?

Thanks for Info @pab567

I'm afraid you are not able to have it completed by yourself - it requires unit to be open and soldered, then connected to VM running QNX and then finally all three partitions must be formatted or non-corrupted image must be pushed to the unit. I can manage it but the unit must be delivered to my workshop in Poland...

Thanks for reply. We changed the language to German and when the unit restarted it had reverted to English. How can we or who can format the EMMC? Is it possible to do ourselves or do we need a professional?

Most of the year it'll be mundane stuff, loads of short hops for groceries and (I nearly said petrol then! LOL!) social stuff, but there's several times of year when I do 200-300 mile journeys, which will almost inevitably now require a layover for charging. But the way fuel prices are going and my lack of enthusiasm for the out & out brut power of the RS, I'm hoping that this change will calm me down a bit, especially as I get older and I now have medical conditions with high BP/HF Depression/anxiety amongst them.

I consider it unrealistic to expect zero lube oil consumption in any engine, no matter what materials and tolerances are used. I suspect an analysis taken of oil from an engine reportedly using absolutely zero oil would reveal that the fluid drained was in fact not 100% lubricating oil.

Cheaper models tend to be LFP (exceptions in Korean vehicles) and more expensive models use NMC due to better energy densities. I think it is important to clarify since it may affect how you (should) live with it.

I have no idea what batteries are under this one it might still be NMC (Nickel Manganese Cobalt) and as it's a MY27 car it comes with a 84KwH battery rather than 82KwH, plus loads of software updates & differences

MEB cars have a separate battery heating/cooling loop but share the car's aircon unit for cooling. There's a three port valve that controls flow to the coolant loops.

My understanding (willing to be corrected) is that the Elroq 85 has an NMC battery which means the best procedure for slower battery degradation is to maintain the charge between 20 and 80%. It is ok to charge to 100% for range flexibility on a longer journey, and ok to run down to low percentages if you immediately charge it. It is leaving the battery for a long period at either higher or lower limit that causes the greatest degradation. LFP batteries (in the Elroq 60) are different insofar as they are far more tolerant of extended periods at the limits and even benefit from regular (weekly?) 100% charges to maintain correct battery level monitoring. I do get very confused on the vehicular heat pump option and what it does. I mean I understand how a heat pump works, and its efficiencies, and even have very effective reverse cycle air conditioning in my house. In an ICE vehicle the heat is supplied from the engine waste heat and the cooling from an engine driven cooling heat pump and the combination allows control of temperature and humidity, so that you can clear the condensation from the windows without freezing your man bits off. So, if you opt for a heat pump then it cannot just be a reverse cycle unit since you need both hot and cold elements to achieve the same de-humidification. Then there is the question of how battery temperature is controlled, essential for fast charging and longevity (original Nissan Leaf being a prime example of the consequences of not managing battery temperature). Does the battery have separate heat pumps circuits or share the passenger cell facilities?

Exactly my thoughts. I am going to contact Skoda directly...

This is the list of parts and costs for the repair (approx £1700). Plus ten hours labour (approx £1500). Socket head bolts with inner polygon head x17 £28.90 Silicon Sealant x1 £41.37 Circlip x1 £7.30 Circlip x1 £7.30 Circlip x1 £7.30 Circlip x1 £7.30 Cap x1 £10.10 Deep groove ball bearing x1 £80.60 Oil Seal x2 £35.90 Cleaning solution x1 £33.34 Plug x1 £6.95 Driveshaft rear left x1 £545 Driveshaft Rear right £561 Gear oil x2 £113.16 Coolant x20 £109.20 Exactly my thoughts. I am going to contact Skoda directly...

That's rather poor given VAG know its a design tolerance issue.