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Ah. I replaced them last year.

Re waxoil. Mine were a bit rusty under covers in places. I decided to use waxoil as I had some old stuff and find its better at protecting previously rusty areas unless you rub down to bare metal ,treat and repaint. As mine was getting pretty bad I went with waxoil to try and hold back the rust. I did rub down the worse parts and treat with hydrate 80 before two coats of waxoil on top. Check up in suspension turret at front as well. Mine was getting rusty at top where top mount is. Seems to be stone chip but not all the way to top. Alasdair

What helps is making a video where both an issue and VIN are visible. This is the kind of evidence they cannot reject. I learned it from the workshop when I had faulty infotainment, they were making such videos themselves to present to Skoda as evidence.

Good shout, I’ll try the Tiger Seal, thanks! 👍

Oh exactly my friend I could have gone down the route of driving around in a soulless box rather than buy this mk2 but I just love the character that the older models have and I really want to put my own stamp on the car. I’m willing too and already have spent money on it in a full service as soon as I got the car and I’ve since changed the pcv,diverter valve,spark plugs to iridium and coils to r8 ones aswell as replacing my rear drivers side caliper which was stuck on. As you say no doubt things will go wrong but I’m willing to put the time and money into a car like this. Admittedly though I am a bit worried about the underside I just want to get it sorted so I can keep it for as long as possible. I don’t even have Bluetooth in mine never mind sat nav I need to upgrade that head unit for sure haha

Hi all, I’ve been searching for.a topic already out there on this but can’t seem to find one. I picked up my 2023 kodiaq a couple of months back and the dealer wanted to change it from flexible to fixed service, I assumed to make sure I went back more frequently. I always liked the flexible on my superb as it seemed to get the most value from a service so kept it on that. Some mechanics I’ve met in the past have said it’s a gimmick and you should always service every year or 10k miles. Is there a topic on this already that gives pros and cons? Any thoughts?

@Ned1 What country are you in or the car is? If you have a TDI i do wonder what the 'poor quality oil' is that it would be acceptable to run it on as far as Skoda / VW would find acceptable to keep a Manufacturers Warranty Valid.

As long as the engine / mechanicals last or are replaceable / repairable, hard to predict, so I would just protect against corrosion, do all services and replace all fluids including PS, brake and gearbox oil change (plus Haldex oil on 4WD) and afterwards enjoy driving the car, replacing worn out parts on occasion. Once corrossion is taken care of / prevented, there's still mechanical wear and tear including interior, but you can replace worn bushes, fans etc. Bear in mind your satnav will run out of updates at some point, if it has not already. My Mk1 Superb has had a visible drop in parts availability about 10 years from end of manufacturing, but I guess Octavia was made in so high numbers that there will be spare parts made for a long time. Mk1 and Mk2 Skodas in general were of better quality than later ones, including better noise reduction and better interior durability. I can certainly see it comparing the wear of our 14 year old "cheap car" Roomster to a 10 year old "family car" Mk3 Octavia vRS. In a way, it is also a curse, as due to crazy Skoda model line-up policies (no manual diesels except in basic Octavia, no varioflex seats anymore in Karoq) now would be a time to replace the Roomster or even both cars with a 3-5 year old Karoq, but I just cannot bring myself to replace a car with superior quality interior, versatility, space and range with something that admittedly looks marginally better on the outside and is a little bit faster on autobahn, but otherwise nowhere near as good value for money nor as reliable / durable / maintainable. Not to mention Mk1/Mk2 headlamps, at least projector ones, being vastly better for travel abroad at night (true flat beam, not dipped z-beam).

I have had no problems ... but I never trust their search patterns, for NO dealer/reseller, even those reliable and established ones like Rimmer Bros for my LR. Always double-check! Yes, is a small hassle yes, but it compensates by doing your own purchases and not paying extra % to a third party .... It is a classic that lots of parts are grouped/piled up by approximation, and particularly VAG is a nightmare for parts' codification. So always beware ... and don't trust the photos, unless they exactly reflect the item description and codes! I use this for checking part numbers, so far I have been satisfied: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851

I've not used, but seen Ridex parts and they are average aftermarket. The claim is that is an "autodoc" brand, so is similar in concept to ... for example a supermarket branding its "own" milk or dairy products. Nothing wrong per se but you have no idea of who is behind that ... not for me thanks. The established brands all have similar prices, but after years of experimentation, if I can, I buy genuine. I've started to notice this first years ago with air filters for my RRP38, the genuine item would be noticeable different than even a OEM like Mann or Mahle - thicker and lightly oiled paper elements, more supple rubber edges, and so on. Must make a difference, eh? For Skoda consumables (say for example Skoda-parts) the price difference in minimal, doesn't justify in my opinion to 'save a few quid' on parts that work on equipment which costs substantially more!

I'm likewise 302 but so far had zero offers of the 0334 update and continued daily minor updates that fail.

Hi Does it solve the problem with the volume rising on its own that caused by heat. I have the same problem, Volume increases by its own and even the screen has problem with responding to touch, even the 2 buttons on the left side not responding…..

Suit yourself, but your spark plugs may never have been looked at in the last 4 years and are a very basic 'car maintenance 101' item.

quick one, but would a torn PCV diaphram cause this stalling issue? I am about to pull the PCV assembly out of the valve cover & see if its intact. I cant seem to find replacement diaphrams only online but cheap enough to order the whole thing. I'll update on tis in 20 mins or so

NEVER EVER use standard bolts with spacers!! always get longer bolts, to compensate for the spacer thickness. also, make sure u get hub-centric spacers if ur going to get spacers.

Tbh I’m with Willie 94 Rather bemused with how to say HI “Go to section you’re interested in” That’s say hi? I dunno New to this social media vibe I guess

Sorry for late reply. My car was at dealer's service at the beginning of the year. However, the issue still exists. In the service I was first driving a mechanic with me. I don't know if he totally understood the sound and the feeling I'm experiencing. He explained something that when the gear stick is in the middle and you change gears 3rd and 4th the cables are a bit looser and there is not that much tension than when using 1st and 2nd or 5th and 6th. He also wondered if cold wheather has anything to do with the sound. But it doesn't. I asked him to drive and test, but he didn't want to. However, he agreed to take the car for inspection. I went home and later they called and said there was nothing loose or wrong and that maybe (!) the sound is a feature. They argued that the mechanic had driven two other cars and they made the same sound. Before buying I had test driven a few year old Scala with over 70k km in it and the gear change was not like mine. It was similar to my old Leon and I was not having any problems with that. So it still makes sound that changes all the time. Also changing to 3rd is still not smooth and many times something resists when moving the stick. Also 2nd and 4th are not that smooth. 5th and 6th are fine. Basicaly you can't say in advance how it sounds or feels in every gear change. In one change it can be quiet and feel like you are moving it to soft rubber or so. Then on other changes it can make many kind of sounds. The different sounds are like "click", "clank", "click-click", "trrr". And they can be relatively loud. Also the feeling changes. In the spring I felt many times that it feels like something is spinning and it needs to settle in order for the gear to slot in. Now this doesn't feel anymore, but there's still something in 3rd many times which stops the stick movement and you have to use more force to push through. Sometimes this feels through the stick like you are pushing through tight metals that rub against each other. Sometimes the stick rattles or feels like jumping when moving. Is this something to do with synchros? I have also tested to change down to 3rd when slowing all the time and keep the stick at the point when something resists it to go further. When the speed drops to under 20 km/h or even 15 km/h then the stick shuddenly goes forward almost by itself to the end of the movement without a problem. This gear behaviour annoys me quite a lot. It's not nice to drive when the changing is not smooth and also the sound. @nmsilva96 Are you experiencing all these same issues or just some of them? What year model is your Scala?

What faults are shown when a diagnostic tablet / VCDS is plugged into your car?

Bringing this thread back, as I've done quite a bit of experimenting with the car's coding. It turns out that changing only the SIA max value for the oil service and the FIX max value for the inspection with poor quality oil set did the trick and allowed me to set the service interval to 10,000 km. Everything else is set to 15k.

Any pictures of this trim ?

Hi @pab567, could you please send me the download link for RNS510-6276-Update-VIM+Tm_60_35_5.iso via PM? My unit is a Skoda Columbus 3T0 035 686 H, HW H21, C14 SSD, currently stuck in a boot loop. My account is new, so I can't send PMs yet. Thank you very much! Artur

Swapping two coil packs over fixed it, so I doubt the plugs are the issue. I think I'll replace the coil packs, since their claimed life expectancy is 100,000 miles, with some lasting out to 140,000 from the reports I've seen.

I'd be pretty concerned about the wheel rims being 'dented' in any way. How much is 'slightly'?