All Activity

I'd be very interested to learn from your experience with the rims after you have had them ceramic coated and they are recmounted for the summer months. Also, do you have thoughts on the approximate cost? Thank you @Coral-C

I did a thorough exterior wash after my long road trip last week. It took about 2.5 hours in total ... of which at over 1 hour was just the flipping wheels 😠 My winter wheels with the simpler rims are ready to fit, so I'll get a chance to do a deep clean on the Veritates when they come off the car. They're already booked in for ceramic coating after that, which might make things a little easier next summer.

Ha ha Yep Kinda lazy motor but it never overheats and it pulls a heap all day long of I ask it to

Thanks for the reply. I was hoping someone else may have 8.5 + 235 to confirm or even someone might be running the old D3 A8's (Ronal) already.. I will update this in the future when we make a decision, gut is 235 but lets see - thanks

Hi, no exact idea, but I seem to recall something of the sort was mentioned in this topic

I did not replace any gears , just rubber and 2 o-rings. The feeling is a little better but still not as new.

Hello. I have problem with idle at Skoda Felicia 1.6 GLX. Problem starts about after one year when i replace throttle body. Usually high idle is present when outside temperature is high, about 30 to 35 degree celsius and the motor is cold. Now these days when temperature is drop i still have problem and is even worse. It goes up to 2500 RPM when the motor is cold. Sometimes when cold start is normal when i drive some kilometers it starts again and idle keep holding for about 2000 RPM. Sometimes the motor was cut off during low speed and warm motor, but this fault is gone now. What can cause this idle problem?

Any tiny knock to the radar needs a recalibration. It has to be aligned to within fractions of a degree to the cars centre line. Very much a specialist job.

Match 6Y1959801A and SK240D4DLS both exactly and entirely. Will only come from a facelift mk1 Fabia, LHD, with 4 electric windows. A 2003 Fabia would have a part number beginning 6Q instead of 6Y. Different in a few ways and not compatible.

Hm, that's interesting. None of the electricians even mentioned that. So would I have to look specifically for 'SK240D4DLS' or just one that comes specifically from a VW group that has 4 electric windows. You had mentioned also the 6Y1959801A code (instead of 6Y2959801). I have found one but it was from a 2003 Fabia so I thought it wouldn't match since it's pre-lift. Is '29...' the wrong model to look for then?

I see no reason why you can’t cut a hole around the cover, and keep it a tight fit. It’ll be difficult to measure, but should work a treat. It’ll be next week now - I can’t be bothered to lift the car up until I have the clips to refit the tie rod boots, which are coming from Cz. The Powerflex items are brilliant quality - all their stuff is. The pads are made of their black polyurethane - it took me several attempts to cut the flange off. Extremely high quality stuff. If you’re able to, please order from these guys - I don’t know Adeel personally, but he’s a small business that does an absolutely outstanding job with communication and shipping.

Yep ! Rain-X would make it worse. You're right about laminated screen being a little softer than toughened glass, but that means laminated is easier to buff. Everything has some element of risk though - choice is yours !

I believe that the tint in a front windscreen only extends for around 4 inches from the top, not across all the glass. the tint is done by colouring the polyvinyl butyral "meat" in the glass sandwich which is extremely unlikely to degrade and migrate across the glass. No, the cratering I'm talking about is caused by impact damage of fine dust particles against relatively soft laminated glass over time. I had a toughened glass screen in my 1965 Rover P5 polished many years ago but the guy would not touch a laminated screen because they are relatively soft and he would not risk any damage. I was rather hoping that something like Rain-X might help but that made it worse......

Well, today was the second wash and a proper one. Plenty of road grime and brake dust from our recent 800 miles round trip to Southern England. Honestly, while the Veritate 19" rims are elegant, they are amongst the worst wheel design I have ever experienced for cleaning. If not the worst. My toothbrushes, did I just say that, were only marginally helpful. I threw everything at these rims: microfibre cloth, several soft brushes, five different variations of Wheel Woolies and of course the adapted toothbrushes. What a pain these rims are with their intricate design and that evil gutter running around the barrel. It makes me yearn for a 1990s plastic wheel trim which, if scuffed, cost peanuts to replace rather than £90, and a day with the alloy rim repair shop. That's progress! Thankfully this will be the last time I will need to clean these rims on the car because next Wednesday is Crystal 17" winter rims day. Hurrah. The Veritates will then get one wash and protection before being stored on the rack in our garage until next April. The car will look dowdy but washing the rims should be easier and that seems like a fair trade! If anyone has any advice then please speak up. There must be an easier way to wash and clean these rims because I cannot believe owners are prepared to spend so much time as I have today. Waiting....more in hope than expectation 😥

Welcome to the forum. Does the red indicator on the fob light when you press a button? Test the batteries and check that any protective film/sticker on the cell has been removed.

If the front radar sensor or its mounts have been damaged or displaced, specialist recalibration is required after any damage is repaired.

New member, I have Karoq 2.0 TSI Black edition on order. Hoping to use the forum resource to help me get to grips with my first Skoda.

They make a massive difference. No flash on these pics. It’s all from the lights in the boot lid plus a bit from the torch.

Yay, it does look a lot smarter. I’ve recently bought and awaiting led boot lights now to finish it off, hopefully no errors…

Are you talking about the radar in the bumper? Or the camera which is housed behind the rear view mirror? If it’s radar, then I think it’s an ADAS calibration you need. Happy to be corrected on those that definitely know more about this than me.

Hi everyone, New to the forum but I really need your help. I’m completely stuck on a Skoda Superb II 2.0 TDI (170Hk) DSG6 (manual ignition key, NO electronic steering lock/ELV) and I’m officially out of ideas. I really hope someone here can point me in the right direction. The Backstory: The car died while driving due to a failed alternator (battery drained completely). The car was driven home, parked, and the battery was disconnected. While replacing the alternator, a faulty xenon ballast was also replaced. A brand-new battery was installed. Upon reconnecting the battery terminals (there was a normal minor spark), the car's ignition went completely dead. Current Symptoms: No Terminal 15: Turning the key does absolutely nothing. The instrument cluster (dashboard) is 100% pitch black—not even the center MFD screen turns on or gives any warnings. Working Comfort Electrics: Central locking, interior lights, hazard lights, radio, and parking lights work perfectly. Manual Jumpering: If I manually jumper the Terminal 15 relay under the steering wheel (bridging pins 30 and 87), power is successfully sent to the cabin fuse box (verified 12V at dashboard fuse SC6, and steering column fuses SC2 and SC16). However, the cluster still remains completely black. Diagnostic Data (OBDeleven): When the Terminal 15 relay is manually jumpered, I can establish VCDS/OBDeleven communication with the car. BCM / Central Electrics Live Data: BCM successfully registers the physical key positions! Terminal 15 (input) and Terminal 50 (input) switch from OFF to ON when I turn the key. The Conflict: However, another live data channel shows Terminal 15 (via LIN) / Steering column switch information as "Not Installed". Fault Codes: The system is flooded with permanent communication codes that cannot be cleared: Terminal 15 implausible signal No signal/communication / Lost connection to: Instrument Cluster (J285) and Steering Column Module (J527). Network Status: Modules like the ECU, TCU, ABS, Gateway, and BCM are fully awake and communicating with the scanner, but they ALL complain about missing communication from specifically the Cluster and the Steering Column Module. What has been verified and tested so far: Fuses & Relays: Every single fuse (engine bay E-box, cabin fuse box, and the large SA-metal strip fuses in front of the engine e-box) has been continuity tested and confirmed OK and power-supplied. All "Relay 100" relays have been bench-tested and function perfectly. No pins in the relay carriers are backed out or damaged. Ignition Switch & Lock: The mechanical lock and the electrical ignition switch (D-switch) behind it have been tested and are fully operational. Steering Column Module (J527): The module's internal circuit board has been inspected and measured—it appears to be fully functional. (Note: The indicator stalk had some intermittent glitches months prior to this event, and the car occasionally threw a steering angle sensor G85 code before, but worked fine). Wiring & Grounding: Tested with a jumper cable directly from battery negative to the engine block with no change. The wiring harness near the engine/DPF/ABS is verified intact and has not been pinched or damaged during the alternator swap. B+ on the new alternator is connected correctly to the designated M8 post. LIN-bus: The LIN-bus wire from the alternator regulator is verified not shorted. The Dilemma: Since the BCM sees the key turning "ON" in live data, the hardware signal gets into the car. But the BCM refuses to ground the Terminal 15 relay automatically. Even when I bypass the relay manually, the Cluster and J527 refuse to boot up on the CAN-bus network, leaving them completely dead to the rest of the car. It feels like a digital lockout or a specific power line (Terminal 30/constant power) to just these two modules has died, but all fuses are intact. Has anyone encountered the BCM or Gateway completely dropping/disabling the LIN-bus to the steering column after a battery reconnect? Could a voltage spike during battery connection have locked the BCM logic, or am I missing a hidden fuse/fusible link somewhere? Any input or crazy ideas are highly appreciated. I am completely out of options! Thanks in advance.

But in 1000 km or 2 months extra urban level dropped about 0.2 litre. Meanwhile i remapped engine, but that did not increase coolant loss. It was on same place full one year after i bought then i replaced coolant, after few weeks, i was thinking maybe there is some air bubbles inside and it have to settle, but one year passed still same. I maku mixture about -25%C to avoid old pump leak. And around pump housing there is no any sign of coolant, fresh or dry. I saw that pump mechanism have problems with sealing and happenes slight leak on housing, between two aluminium parts on housing. It cant cause imidiattely coolant loss but anyway i am worried.

I just did the same work for the second time, But did not bolt off the ac compressor and did not take off the bumpers. I just raised the engine and took the radiator fan off. Same engine. 2h in total.

Don't worry, just teasing because of some comments above (not necessarily yours, I give it to you). 😉

Yes, on my '21 vRS I have the lights on Auto (on the lower switch), and it's just a matter of pulling back on the headlight stalk/switch to return them to normal operation