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isn't your spring mounted too much forward? picture is with OEM, but diameter is same

It seems to me the trouble lies in two areas: 1 The canister should be sited so that no liquid petrol could reach it (short of a rollover!) 2 The logic in the ECU that the purge flow is "incorrect" is too picky - it's effect on engine performance is surely infinitesmal. Personally I really can't see why these "vapours", which would be free of hydrocarbons after travelling through the charcoal canister anyway, shouldn't merely be vented rather than monitored & re- breathed. The irony is that I only went to petrol to avoid the lunacies of modern diesel systems! It seems heads they win, tails they win🤔

The instructions below were copied from the digital Manual for a 2022 Skoda Fabia Mk4. No option is provided to turn off the Lane Assist feature permanently - it will be turned on automatically every time the car's ignition is switched on. However (as the final paragraph in the instructions says) it is possible to turn off Lane Assist's steering-wheel vibration through the car's infotainment display-screen's settings menu and, once this has been done, steering-wheel vibration will not take place. Lane Assist will still turn itself on every time the car's ignition is switched on, but there will be no vibration of the steering-wheel when Lane Assist 'intervenes'. BURTEQ offers a 'save the settings' memory module for 2021-2023 Fabia Mk4 models https://burteq.com/products/skoda-fabia-4-iv-memory-module and it may be possible to override Lane Assist's automatic activation on ignition switch-on using a diagnostic/code-modifying tool like OBDeleven, VCDS or Carista.

With simpler old cars you get away with a poor battery but modern electronic systems are very sensitive to voltage drop. A low battery can cause all manner of problems. Hope a new one cures the problem. Alasdair

Ok! Cheers!

F11-79-008-01-HA were ok on my previous 220ps FWD hatch https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485647-bilstein-b6-dcc-shock-absorbers-available-at-last/page/3/#comment-5620484 i can't see huge diff to F11-79-013-01-RA, which is installed on my current 280ps AWD hatch https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/page/3/#findComment-5854160

My 3 cylinder, CGPA, 12v engine is struggling to start after it's not been used overnight. It turns over OK but coughs and splutters. On second attempt it starts straight away, as it has always done on the first turn of the key up to recently. My VAG code reader does not show any fault codes. I'm wondering if the cause is lack of petrol fuel pressure caused by a failed non return valve. Is there a a NRV in the fuel system? Or could there be an auto choke process that isn't working as it should? TIA

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/532527-engine-ecu-anti-tamper-fixings

@Evolution13 i bought my Karoq in April 24 (used 6 months old 1,000 miles) oil and filter service by selling dealer. Serviced again in April 25 and April 26, I asked for the Haldex oil change with the April 26 service. I’ll make a note for brake fluid to be done April 27. @Rory as you can see from the above - the services are 6 months out of phase with the first reg anniversary - the first service was 6 months early, free/included in purchase price.

Vehicle Info: Model: 2016 Skoda Octavia Engine: 1.4 TSI (EA211) Symptom & Behavior Symptom: Red brake warning light / error on dashboard, stiff brake pedal (complete loss of vacuum assist). Frequency: Occurs roughly once every few hundred kilometers. Recovery: Braking feel returns to normal/soft after the throttle is released and brake pedal pressed. Trigger Conditions The issue occurs ONLY when driving uphill, and strictly under one of the following two conditions: Maintaining a steady / constant throttle input. Cruise Control is active. Non-Triggering Conditions Driving on flat roads or downhill. Uphill driving with dynamic, varying, or heavy throttle inputs. Engine idle or routine city driving. Completed Diagnostics & Results Check Valve (Manual Cold Test): Line removed completely and tested manually at room temperature. Result: Free airflow from booster side to engine side; 100% blocked from engine side to booster side. Brake Booster (Servo) Vacuum Retention Test: Engine idled for 15 seconds, shut off, and left off for 5 full minutes. Result: First and second pedal presses were soft; pedal stiffened on the third press.

This must surely be your favourite topic on here John 😁 Yeah these were wrong from the start but autodoc has moved it to another level by putting two different springs wrongly into wrong box 🙈

Yeah they are cr*p avoid at any cost. They now have charge back initiated by my bank.... their approach to solving problems is ridiculous. Yes H&R front and rear 💪🏻

Hi everyone, Quick update: problem solved! The clunk was caused by a slight movement of the front subframe. I replaced all six subframe mounting bolts with new ones and tightened them to the correct specification. Since then, the clunk has completely disappeared, including during braking, acceleration, reversing and direction changes. I’ve now driven the car in different conditions and everything is quiet and stable. So if you have a similar single clunk when the load changes direction, check the subframe mounting/bolts before replacing expensive parts.

It will just be fuel in there, not sediment. A pal of mine had a similar problem on a newish Octy, which was eventually fixed by dealer. They told him this: " They fixed the engine light problem. Apparently it is a known problem on some models, not usually on Octavia, where the vapour cartridge and pipe are undersized. The fix has been to replace these with the newer, larger, design. Done under warranty." I'd never heard anything like it.

The only bolt that needs removing as far as I'm aware, is the one behind the cover of the bearing assembly, it's not a front so from looking at youtube/haynes it's a single bolt that gets torqued back up to 180nm plus some degrees too. If it's replacing a knuckle it'll probably have to go to a garage as I doubt I have the kit to do that and would need to replace many bolts too! I haven't looked at the other side honestly, that side is fine and I'm in the school of, if it isn't broken - don't fix it until it is!

Most Kits have a trim removal item (usually coloured orange) that you can use to gently pry the edge of the headlining off and tuck the cable under that. I ran the cable from the camera along the top of the rear trim then fed it down the plastic gaiter that hold the electrics for the wiper motor. Then carefully feed it down the "A" pillar. I say carefully because a lot of car have air bags in the "A" pillar and you don't want to disturb or place it in the way of the air bag. If you don't want to chance the "A" pillar then take it as far as the "B" pillar then down the trim (avoiding the seat belt run) along the lower trim beneath the door sill and up behind the side of the glovebox (or side panel) then to the camera itself. And save a hundred quid (plus) ! 😊

Looking at eBay items it looks like it’s part number dependant and the difference between std and high. Both 8 inch screens that look the same 3v0919606 - black plug - high https://ebay.io/m/mzqBAe Looks the same as 3v0919605a - blue plug - std https://ebay.io/m/YnuE5m So looks like mine will be black plug. I was just assuming by how the screen and buttons looked. Didn’t realise there were 2 different part numbers that looked the same from the front!

Interesting... in both of our Skoda models, kodiaq & Octavia 3, the 8-inch displays have the blue connector, while the 9.2-inch displays have the black one.

Under no circumstances whatsoever should 0.37kgs of sediment or whatever you wish to call it build up in 3 years and 23K miles, I have had 3 different family VWs, each well over 20 years old when scrapped and never had any problem like that, that canister is supposed to trap vapours, can only imagine that overfilling the tank at every refill might cause this in such a short period, it would be interesting though to see if all all new canisters are of equal weight.

The correct rear springs for a Sedan/Saloon mk3 Superb is F11-15-007-04-HA. I've lost count how many times I've posted this table now. Don't go by wat these shops r putting on their websites.

I was on 330, which still had the shop until a few days ago. But now on 334 which has reinstated the shop.

Folks, the car is great. I'm shattered but just hate it when folk collect their cars and then immediately go missing from forums. Here's a pic. I will post a final message tomorrow to wrap things up on the thread. Thanks again. David.

@Binx1310 - both my 8" Columbus and 9.2" Columbus have the same black connector, so there was no need for me to trim/cut anything - hence not in my how to guide.

21 Plate 1.5 Petrol Estate. 25000mls. Bought it with 3300mls on it as an ex demo' in late 2022 from local (ish) dealer. First 4 services chucked in with it, along with my first M.O.T. Had M.O.T in July, notified that all discs (and therefore pads) need replacing (which they do, as they're lipped) and that air-con service due. Car told me at the weekend that an oil change service is due. Normally the annual email from the dealers arrives before that notification pops up, but not this time. Rang them this morning, receptionist told me "nobody on service desk". Took some details, said someone would ring me back today. They didn't, which got my back up a tad. Question is, should I sack them off, as they're an hour's drive, and find someone more local who would no doubt be cheaper, or is dealer service history worth having for the car? My experience tells me that this is a very fussy car. Is an inependent likely to have the right knowledge and specialist equipment to keep on top of things (software updates for example)? Plus, it's a minefield finding someone reliable. Following a mini-stroke I am unable to do any work myself so I'm completely at the mercy of everyone else. Obviously, I'd like as not save a packet leaving the dealer but there is a sort of peace of mind that using them brings. There is a VW dealer a couple of miles from me under the same corporate umbrella. Would they be set up for Skoda and worth a look? It is virtually a Golf, isn't it? Any thoughts and opinions (good or bad) welcome, thanks.

From what ive read the fuel filter is on the rear right side just in front of the back wheel. on your car, this was the info i found the youtube vid if for a mk5 golf but same procedure